R. T., try this location, they showed many GP35's in stock of various road names, but only a few GP30's.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/category_s/380.htm
They show three each, GP35Ph1A and GP35ph1b in stock, undecorated for $59.99 ea.
They show two GP30's in stock, undecorated for $49.99 ea.
I have completed the Christmas layout and I had more problems than I thought I'd have.
First off I used sound board instead of homasote - this was a good thing. The sound board is 1/4 the cost of homasote. I read about people cutting the sound board and all the fuzz they incountered. I got around this by cutting it with a utility knife. Three slices with the knife and I was all the way through the board. Sound board is my proudct of choise for a flat layout.
The wife wanted it to look like there was snow on the ground. She found a short knap fleece type of fabric so I put it down. Then I layed and nailed the track on top of that. This is where the problems began. With the track setting on the soft fleece and nailed down there were high and low spots in the track. I tried adding more nails but this did not fix it. I ran the 14 car train for about 10 mins and cars started uncoupling themselves. So the only thing I could think of doing was to glue all the couplers (all my stock has rapido couplers.) I can hear all of you saying NO DON'T DO THAT. You have to remember this is just a Christmas layout that is one loop that is about 39"X48"s. I used rubber cement on all the couples and this fixed it. The nice thing about rubber cement is it rubs off with no problem.
Of course I didn't find this fix before I had changed my original layout which was two passing loops. Maybe I'll change it back next year.
I ordered the Christmas Village set of buildings and I was going to do some lighting with optic fibre. Well when I took the buildings out of their boxes I found they are a solid cast build. There went the lighting plans.
I was runnig lighted passenger car and after about 15mins. the power cab would shut it"s self off as the load was to great. So it's time to disable the car lights. The power cab was just a cheapy that comes with the small starter sets. So now I need a bigger power cab.
Of course all of the problems are fixable with the right time and money.
Has anyone tried to use one of those "Cold Heat" soldering irons (as seen on TV sometime ago) to solder track joint together?
If so how did it work?
Dewayne wrote:Has anyone tried to use one of those "Cold Heat" soldering irons (as seen on TV sometime ago) to solder track joint together?If so how did it work?
Dewayne.
I bought one a couple of years ago and tried using it to solder "N" scale track connectors and wireing. I gave up in disgust. and went back to my tried and trusty soldering iron. I spent 41 years as a Serviceman and did a lot of soldering, both copper water lines with a torch and all types of wireing with a soldering gun and never had a problem like I did with that thing. Worst $30.00 + taxes I ever spent.
Save the money and get a proper soldering kit for the same price or a little more if you don't have one. If you do have one, put the $$$ towards some motive power or rolling stock.
Blue Flamer.
Dave I enjoyed your spot on Youtube. So you hopefully you all will keep looking out for my new layout under construction as I hope that I will be posting not only construction pics but also some vision on my website. I will keep you all posted on the website.
A little about myself. I own a couple of companies that I started one of which is in electronic security; you know alarms and CCTV etc.? And the other is a video production company (my sister is a graduate in the field of video and television production so I set it up to give her a go) I live in Epping in Sydney Australia and I have to say I model N Gauge UP and love all the stuff in the States.
Here in Australia our track gauge loadings are lighter than yours, similiar to the POMS (with the exception of BHP Billiton mines - off the shelf American) so you can see that I would be drawn to the huge stuff that you have in the states. Which leads me to say that I am planning a visit over there in your spring to summer 2008.
So Dave and everyone - stay tuned I hope that I can contribute to your great thread. Cheers David Jarman
Thanks for the info BF.
I'm concerned about the heat from a conventional soldering iron. I have a low wattage iron but I still fear what it may do to the ties.
I'm thinking of building a resistive type iron and trying that. There are some web pages that discribe how to build one and they all call for a different rated transformer. They call for anything from a 1 1/2 to 8 amp rated transformer. I have built a power supply for a foam cutting hot wire. The transformer I used is rated at 2 amp and I was wondering if that is large enough.
Anyone have any thoughts
David,
I'm sure I speak for all N scalers on the forum by saying a big WELCOME!!!
I also model the Union Pacific in N scale. My layout is probably small compared to what you have planned, but it fits the available space here in my basement family room.
My star is this brass 8500HP Turbine.
I'm looking forward to your progress photos.
Dewayne wrote:Thanks for the info BF.I'm concerned about the heat from a conventional soldering iron. I have a low wattage iron but I still fear what it may do to the ties.I'm thinking of building a resistive type iron and trying that. There are some web pages that discribe how to build one and they all call for a different rated transformer. They call for anything from a 1 1/2 to 8 amp rated transformer. I have built a power supply for a foam cutting hot wire. The transformer I used is rated at 2 amp and I was wondering if that is large enough.Anyone have any thoughts
When using the Cold Fusion gadget, the track still gets hot as with a soldering iron. It is just the tip of the iron that cools off almost immediately. You can still melt plastic ties with it. (Ask me how I know).
As for using a regular soldering gun or pencil, just make sure that you get one that will heat your work up quickly and make sure that it is up to full heat before you start. The trick is high heat for a very short period of time, (3 to 5 seconds). You can also put a damp piece of paper towel on each side of your work as a heat sink to stop heating up to much track. Also, just a touch of acid free flux to help the solder flow freely.
As for your Foam Cutter, I am afraid that I cannot help you as I have no experience in that field.
In closing, I have three words of warning before you start on your track soldering. PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE! on some scrap pieces of track and wire.
Good luck.
Davidpj1966 wrote:Dave I enjoyed your spot on Youtube. So you hopefully you all will keep looking out for my new layout under construction as I hope that I will be posting not only construction pics but also some vision on my website. I will keep you all posted on the website.A little about myself. I own a couple of companies that I started one of which is in electronic security; you know alarms and CCTV etc.? And the other is a video production company (my sister is a graduate in the field of video and television production so I set it up to give her a go) I live in Epping in Sydney Australia and I have to say I model N Gauge UP and love all the stuff in the States.Here in Australia our track gauge loadings are lighter than yours, similiar to the POMS (with the exception of BHP Billiton mines - off the shelf American) so you can see that I would be drawn to the huge stuff that you have in the states. Which leads me to say that I am planning a visit over there in your spring to summer 2008.So Dave and everyone - stay tuned I hope that I can contribute to your great thread. Cheers David Jarman
David.
A big to "The "N" Crowd". Everyone has something to contribute and I am sure that you will be no exception. Remember, the only stupid question is the one that you don't ask.
Good luck, and again, .
Wo! How many N Scale modelers here and I think I should join this thread!
I'm a chinese modeler and now modelling my N Scale Germany Style layout.
Here is the layout plan:
Size: 10' X 8'
Track system: Peco Code 55
Turnout motor: Tortoise
Command Station: Uhlenbrock IntelliBox
Stationary decoder: Uhlenbrock 63410 20port switch modul
Occupancy Detector: Digitrax BDL-168 & Uhlenbrock 63340
Computer Control: Railroad & Co. Train Controller
And now, I'm in benchwork!
Engine Shed I will put in the layout:
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum, Bubu.
The track plan looks interesting and your bench work looks as if it could support the Forbidden City, very nice work.
I'm sure I speak for others in this thread in saying we look forward to further progress pictures.
Bubu.
to The "N" Crowd. I do not recall another modeller on these forums from China. It looks as though you have an ambitious project ahead of you. If you run into problems, just ask. There are many fine modellers here that are always willing to help out with their expertise.
A little off topic, but I have been learning a little about China from my baby sister, (Ha! Ha! She is in her late 50's). She went over to teach English earlier this year and she reports on her adventures and trips at www.jillibean.ca.
Again, to The "N" Crowd and to all the MRR Forums.
mls1621 wrote: Welcome to the forum, Bubu.The track plan looks interesting and your bench work looks as if it could support the Forbidden City, very nice work.
HAHAHAHA!
Thanks, mls1621!
I have to try my best to make the benchwork as stable as I can because it is my first "big" layout. I do it step by step refer to the "Basic Model Railroad Benchwork" by Jeff Wilson and "How to build Model Railroad Benchwork" by Linn H. Westcott.
I'm now in trackwork and I'll post the progress pictures later.
Thanks again!
Blue Flamer wrote: Bubu. to The "N" Crowd. I do not recall another modeller on these forums from China. It looks as though you have an ambitious project ahead of you. If you run into problems, just ask. There are many fine modellers here that are always willing to help out with their expertise.A little off topic, but I have been learning a little about China from my baby sister, (Ha! Ha! She is in her late 50's). She went over to teach English earlier this year and she reports on her adventures and trips at www.jillibean.ca.Again, to The "N" Crowd and to all the MRR Forums.Blue Flamer.
Thanks, Blue!
I have to say being a railroad modeler in China is not very easy because they have not enough space and enough budget for a permanent layout. As you know, China is a developing country and there is not a long history and railroad culture about the model railroad in China. All most all of railroad modelers come to be a REAL modeler in the last 2 or 3 years. I'm living in Hangzhou now, the most beautiful city in China, about 100 miles away from Shanghai. But I can't find a model railroad hobby shop in my city even Hangzhou is the top 10 biggest city in China. The only hobby shop which sells the Europe Model Railroad Products is located in Shanghai, but they have few in stock. So, I have to purchase all materials for my layout by Internet such as http://www.lokshop.de,/ http://www.modellbahn-kramm.com./ Bachmann is the only manufacturer which produces the China series HO scale locomotive & Rolling Stock. In fact I like the Bachmann Spectrum very much and I built a very small On30 Shay Layout 2 years ago but I have to say the quality of Bachmann China series is not very good. I lived in German in 1990s when I was an intern in Volkswagon. One day I went to the theater and this old Germany Movie lead me to the World of Model Railroad. The only word I can say to myself is: Yes! That was my dream in the rest of my life and I must to make it to come true. I want to build a Chinese theme layout at first but I can't find the N Scale China Locomotives, Rolling Stocks, Model buildings....and so on. And, I'm very familiar with German and I think that was the reason why I pick Germany as my subject. I moved to my new house 3 years ago and I'm very lucky that I can build a permanent layout in the loft with the support of my wife. Unfortunately I have to share the space with my son because he has his Tomy model railroad system. So, I decided to build a N scale layout. I can barely find any other modelers in China who can discuss about the layout construction, modeling skills and DCC Technology with me. The favorites of Many Chinese modelers I knew are purchasing the Bachmann Locomotives, taking pictures, posting the pictures on the forum... that's all. I have to purchase some model railroad books published by Kalmbach from the Amazon and visit trains.com forums for learning more skills. Thanks for you all and I will post any of my questions on this forum asking for your help!
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
R. T. POTEET wrote:The question I am raising here is this: what, in your opinion, is a practical size for an N Scale model railroad. ......Is your layout too big? too small? or just-t-t-t-t right?
Good question, I think. But -- as always, the right answer is that there's no right answer. My current (not-started-'til-after-the-holidays) layout is in a 9x11 bedroom. There's a part of me that says I need two or three times that space to get the nice long runs with long trains that I'd like. (I'm thinking, say, of a Sherman Hill layout, with good grades and 50-car trains pulled by Challengers.) So that would be a perfect space for that.
But I don't have that space, so instead I've gone to my other first choice layout -- very urban, tight industrial switching. So now I'm looking at eight-car trains pulled by geeps, with lots of specialwork trackage for the switching interest, and, necessarily, lots and lots (and lots) of structures. For the "trackage" of the layout, 9x11 is about right. But I'm looking at a couple hundred structures here, which might take me a decade or more to complete. So maybe even that's too big.
And so the argument goes: bigger means better track to scenery ratios, but also just more stuff to build, maintain, etc. Smaller is better maintainability and "buildability" (?) but gets tighter and tighter on scenery. So it depends on what you want.
For me, right now, my 9x11 Springfield Terminal RR is perfect.
RT,
From expierience, I can say that a 4x8 is too wide for me, 2x4 is just too small for my idea of operating in a roundy-round world. I have tried all of these configurations and ended up scavenging what was saveable and trashing the rest.
For the past few years, I have been fiddling with a 44 inch wide 11 foot long layout with a 60 inch long 44 inch wide kickout on one end. It has seen a a helix (now gone) and has gone from 11 inch minimum radius to 15 inch minimum radius on the main line, with 17, 19 and 21 inch 4 track curve on one side that funnels down to a wye on the other end with a town and yard in the middle. I've got lots of buildings built, the 4 track curve is glued down and fine tuned. None of the scenicking has been done yet. I'm just not satisfied with where it's going.
After reading your question, I was in there looking and figure that IF I can talk the MRS into emptying the closet and getting rid of a bunch of clothes and stuff, I could remove that closet and gain a bunch of space for a small amount of work. That would be a 11x14 room devoted to trains. Sticking to a 40 inch width, there would be about 7x10 space on the middle.
I can see the conversation now: Me... Honey I need more space. Her... what for? Me... I need to expand the layout so that those big steamers look right. Her... what have you got in mind? Me... get rid of those shelf units and the (in a very quiet, plaintive, begging voice) closet. Me... well it's Christmas and we could donate all of that stuff we don't use to charity. Her... HAVE YOU LOST YOUR MIND!!!!! Me... mumbles about all of those shoes and purses that you never use. I have to think about this some more.
Bob
R. T. POTEET wrote:Is your layout too big? too small? or just-t-t-t-t right?
My theory is that you can maintain a large layout if you keep it a simple layout. Trade complexity for scenery. Keep the number of track and switches to a reasonable minimum to minimize potential points of failure. Just because you have the space for an additional industrial spur, do you really NEED an additional industrial spur?
Of course the reason my theory is still a theory is that I have yet to find a spot big enought to put it to the test....
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
I just finished the edge striping on the last road on my layout. I used Chartpak graphics tape for the stripes. Now I'm letting them get good and stuck before weathering the road surface.
This is the only view of the road you can see from the front of the layout.
R. T. POTEET wrote:Here I go again . . .A couple of years back someone announced body shell kits for GE less-than-100 ton (44 ton; 70 ton . . . etc) industrial switchers; I saw this in either nsr horizons or N SIGHTS - I can't research this at this particular time because a reorganization project has put the great majority of my back issues into storage and I won't be able to get to them for awhile yet.Anybody heard anything about these turkeys? Does anyone know of any GE less-than-100 ton industrial switchers?
The only little switchers I know about are the improved standard line units from Bachmann. After that, the search is on for a suitable motor/chassis options to power a critter. There are some Kato & Tomix mechanisma that will work. IIRC Trix may have a tiny critter in their European lineup.
stebbycentral wrote: R. T. POTEET wrote:Is your layout too big? too small? or just-t-t-t-t right?My theory is that you can maintain a large layout if you keep it a simple layout. Trade complexity for scenery. Keep the number of track and switches to a reasonable minimum to minimize potential points of failure. Just because you have the space for an additional industrial spur, do you really NEED an additional industrial spur?Of course the reason my theory is still a theory is that I have yet to find a spot big enought to put it to the test....
I think the answer is a definate yes! No layout is ever big enough, and everyone I know at times wishes he has more space in this yard or that staging or the other industry. On the other hand, when track cleaning or dusting I think I miss my old 4 x 4 laout. But overall, I am very happy with how my layout operates and shows off trains--it is a lot of fun.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings
I think it's like closet space...you can never have enough. When I started my table top layout planning, the intent was to stick to something the same size as my table top...42x64. No matter what I did plan wise, it was a constant "if I had just a few more inches". So I decided to stretch it a bit...first to 42x66...then 42x72...then 42x76...still, if I just had a couple more inches....but I forced myself to stick to 42x76, and started construction. When my plan for an all foam base turned out to be insufficient, it was off to Lowe's for a hollow core door...when I got home and was getting out the tools to cut down the door to my 76" limit, my wife said "Why on earth are you going to cut it for 4"?"...so 42x80 it would be. At that size I could double span that bridge...add that extra siding...make my fiddle track double ended...but if I just had a few more inches...............................
The last week or so I've been tempted to blow it all up...go back to my 42x64 roots, scrap a lot of the planned scenery in favor of the biggest train parking yard I can fit in the center, and just watch trains go round and round.
Reality...an interesting concept with no successful applications, that should always be accompanied by a "Do not try this at home" warning.
Hundreds of years from now, it will not matter what my bank account was, the sort of house I lived in, or the kind of car I drove...But the world may be different because I did something so bafflingly crazy that my ruins become a tourist attraction.
"Oooh...ahhhh...that's how this all starts...but then there's running...and screaming..."
Here's a "new" old caboose my son & daughter-in-law found and got for me last summer! (I just got around to photographing it recently).
It runs on my "commemorative" n-scale consist.
Last summer was 25th anniversary of the World's Fair in Knoxville, and my wife & I were there in 1982. Last week I took some guests back to the site of the fair; Knoxville has reopened the "Sunsphere" and the view of the surrounding area is fantastic. The restored L & N railway station is nearby.
Kenfolk wrote:Here's a "new" old caboose my son & daughter-in-law found and got for me last summer! (I just got around to photographing it recently). It runs on my "commemorative" n-scale consist. Last summer was 25th anniversary of the World's Fair in Knoxville, and my wife & I were there in 1982. Last week I took some guests back to the site of the fair; Knoxville has reopened the "Sunsphere" and the view of the surrounding area is fantastic. The restored L & N railway station is nearby.
Kenfolk.
After 25 Years, that Caboose is in despirate need of some SERIOUS weathering. Dont'cha think??? A nice looking model though.
Good to see a thread for us N scalers! I am currently working a completely freelanced layout in a 10 x 9 x 10 around the walls config. I seem to gravitate towards the pieces that made up the BN as well as the BN itself and thus have GN, CB&Q and BN engines. I also have some modern NS power.
All of my trackwork is Atlas c55 as it looks the most prototypical to me. Here is a shot of some of my progress...Hope the pic isn't too big..
Rob
That roadwork looks GREAT! Thanks for the info on the striping I will certainly be picking some up.
After 25 Years, that Caboose is in desparate need of some SERIOUS weathering. Dont'cha think??? " border="0" />
Uh...actually I'm modeling about 25 years ago...yeah, that's it.....
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
nscale1969 wrote: Good to see a thread for us N scalers! I am currently working a completely freelanced layout in a 10 x 9 x 10 around the walls config. I seem to gravitate towards the pieces that made up the BN as well as the BN itself and thus have GN, CB&Q and BN engines. I also have some modern NS power. All of my trackwork is Atlas c55 as it looks the most prototypical to me. Here is a shot of some of my progress...Hope the pic isn't too big.. Rob
Welcome to the forum and the N crowd 1969. Make yourself at home. Hope you enjoy yourself.
Thanks for the welcome Ron. I took a gander at your site last night. Great work sir!