I had to restart on the layout, so I am down from a 5'x6' to a 25"x48". Oh well it gives me a small test platform to try out different methods of modeling. BTW, this was my 900th post.
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
RR Redneck wrote: NSnscaler wrote:Spray paint's not the way to go. Trust me. I use an air brush at work, but on my models, I have been known to use spray paint when I dont want to crank up the air compressor.
NSnscaler wrote:Spray paint's not the way to go. Trust me.
I use an air brush at work, but on my models, I have been known to use spray paint when I dont want to crank up the air compressor.
Yea, you're probably right. I tried spray paint for the first tme a few weeks ago...it came out less than ideal. But I suppose if you've practiced and are adept at it, then spray paint can work.
Any ideas on my earlier kato coupler post anyone?
John
What is the scale distance or regular distance between telephone poles - Help?
pcarrell wrote:Dave Vollmer, Have you seen the middle of page 17 of the Jan/Feb N Scale Railroading mag? GHQ is going to do a pewter Pennsylvania L1 Mikado conversion for the kato chassis. Looks good! It's not listed on their ebsite yet though.
Yes, I saw that... I had wanted another (I have one already) but now I'm thinking not. The Kato-2-8-2 is a bear to convert to DCC and that kit's a tough one.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
I've used artist's frisking tape in the past. It's what pinstripers use when they do their thing on cars, guitars, and whatever else. It conforms well to curves and such. It works pretty well.
My favorite though is Bare Metal Foil. It's at the hobby shop in the model car or planes section. It's adhesive backed foil thats very thin so it adheres to the contours of what you're painting. You can trim it easily with a hobby knife. The weight of the knife with a brand new blade will cut it, its that thin.
apartment railer wrote:Masking question. What do you guys use to mask off when painting N scale. Any special tape?
I use low tack painters tape, but here is an important trick when using it. mask the area, them spray it with either a light coat of the under color or a coat of dullcoat. This will seal the tape edge before you apply the second color and keep it from bleeding up under the tape. It works like a charm and saves many headaches later.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings
Happy New Year to ALL N SCALERS!
I want to formally intorduce myself to yall, as I am beginning what should be the best layout I have ever built (yet! hehe).
My name is Chuck McDonald from Robinson Illinois and I have been a model railroader since I was 8 years old (about 16 years ago for you math majors!).
I am in the middle of the benchwork phase of my new 8X12' layout based on a plan from "Small Smart and Practical Track Plans" by Ian Rice. Its the "CC Tower: Heavy Traffic at the Carbon Crystal Crossing" Plan. Basically its a dual track main crossing a single track main in a midwestern town.
My plan is to have the dual track be the B&0 and the single track be the Nickle Plate set in about 1954.
Tomorow (Thursday) I will be posting pics of my previous layout (torn down 1 month ago) and the benchwork progress on the new Pike.
I do have one question: What spacing do you use between double track to look good on curves and straights?
Thanks and Glad to be here!
Chuck "Tractorboy"
Welcome to the forum!
jdtractorboy wrote: I do have one question: What spacing do you use between double track to look good on curves and straights?
Most N scalers go with 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" track centerline to track centerline spacing, depending on the length of the equipment they're running. Longer equipment tends to overhang more, especially as the curves get tighter, so you might need a little extra room on the curves so you don't have a sideswipe if you run the bigger stuff. Some guys do an 1 1/4 on the straights, and 1 1/2 on the curves so they can have thier cake and eat it too. It all depends on the size of the rolling stock though. Big, long passenger cars and large steam loco's, and some of the bigger diesels need that extra room.
pcarrell wrote:Most N scalers go with 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" track centerline to track centerline spacing, depending on the length of the equipment they're running.
Most N scalers go with 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" track centerline to track centerline spacing, depending on the length of the equipment they're running.
Thanks Phillip. Good to be here.
Some more background on my addiction..uhhh..hobby..yeah hobby (picture being said to wife of 1 year).
As I stated in my previous post, my old layout was sacrificed for the new layout. The previous layout was started when I was in the 7th grade as my first real attempt at N-scale as well as an around the wall design. It was moved twice, crossed the mason/dixon line twice, and was never totally finished by any standards. When I entered college, I somewhat had lost interest/became interested in antique tractors and machinery and the model railroad was put to the side.
Fast forward to one month ago. Since becoming married and purchasing my own house, I now had a nice place (read finished room as opposed to somewhat finished but dark basement) to work on a layout. Additionally, I found a plan in Ian Rice's book that covered the one aspect of model railroading I enjoy the most: OPERATION!
Also, I visited with some guys around the Evansville, IN area that had a Ho basement layout with DCC. The operation and layout floored me and I really got going on the new pike.
So here I am...recent armchair model railroader turned carpenter getting underway.
Chuck
pcarrell wrote: Welcome to the forum! jdtractorboy wrote: I do have one question: What spacing do you use between double track to look good on curves and straights?Most N scalers go with 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" track centerline to track centerline spacing, depending on the length of the equipment they're running. Longer equipment tends to overhang more, especially as the curves get tighter, so you might need a little extra room on the curves so you don't have a sideswipe if you run the bigger stuff. Some guys do an 1 1/4 on the straights, and 1 1/2 on the curves so they can have thier cake and eat it too. It all depends on the size of the rolling stock though. Big, long passenger cars and large steam loco's, and some of the bigger diesels need that extra room.
Welcome to the forum and the N scale thread, Chuck. The standard quoted above is exactly what I use with great looks and operation even on 89 foot freight equipment.
n2mopac wrote:Welcome to the forum and the N scale thread, Chuck. The standard quoted above is exactly what I use with great looks and operation even on 89 foot freight equipment.Ron
Thanks Ron.
Even though the layout is set in 1950ish, I will go to the 1 1/2" spacing to keep problems to a minimum, especially if I decide to "modernize" every now and again!
NS2591 wrote:This is for those of those that ordered the new atlas GP38-2s. They pushed the release date back to March.
Ahhh I was hoping to pick a B&M unit up at the Spingfield train show!
BrethereN,
I had a horrible experience at a local hobby shop today...
Okay I passed by a local hobby shop today, one I haven't been to in years. It's a multi-hobby store, with cars, crafts and planes as well as trains, but trains have their own wing. There was a seemingly friendly guy at the the trains counter and I was looking for Atlas Code 55 N scale turnouts. He asked what I was looking for and then pointed out they had Peco Code 55 turnouts. I told him I wasn't interested in those because the rail height is not compatible with true Code 55 track. Then he told me that I should be using Code 80 turnouts "Because turnouts are the most likely place whee derailments happen" and that "the only real difference is the height of the rail." I told him I'm set on Code 55 since I wanted the prototypical look, but he didn't seem to listen. I then asked you, "Are you mainly into N scale?" but he proceeded to respond with a "Listen, I know what I'm talking about" kind of response. I told him that I just converted to N from HO. He was chatting with a few frequent customers who were hanging out at the store who I assume belong to the same club as he and later he asked me, "So what prompted you to switch to N?" I told him that I do the modern era and that my autoracks and superliners wouldn't look or run well on my old HO layout. He then told me "Well you're gonna be kicking yourself for making that decision." I told him, "You can run more trains in the same space as HO." His reply? "No that's not true...That's why you join a club. You can have wide curves on a club layout" I told him I didn't have the time or money to invest in a club. What an idiot. You think that someone who works in a train department of a hobby shop would have knowledge and respect for all scales. I told him "N scale is growing" and he went on to say, "No one's buying. I should know, I sell it!" I didn't want to make a scene but I should have informed him that it's not selling because PEOPLE BUY ONLINE!
I think it's very wrong for people at hobby shops to be condescending like that. I will never go there again.
I just want to tell ALL N scalers in Southern California to NOT SPEND YOUR TIME OR MONEY AT HOBBY WAREHOUSE IN LAKEWOOD! They're very anti-N scale, and besides, their selection is lame.
Do any of you have any athearn engines? I was looking to get a SD70M and was wondering how they run and the detail compared to a Atlas?
Thanks
Question for Dave Vollmer.
Would you mind telling me what you are using to control the turnouts on you layout?
BTW, both your layout and website are VERY nice looking, Almost makes me want to model the Pennsy! I'm using it as a reference as to what I want my layout to look like, accept with modern CSX power.
dekruif wrote:Do any of you have any athearn engines? I was looking to get a SD70M and was wondering how they run and the detail compared to a Atlas? Thanks
I have never seen one run, but I have seen them in the hobby shop. This is just my opinion, but when I looked at the CSX unit, I was very dissapointed with the paint job. The lines between different colors were very fuzzy (this was the CSX dark future scheme). Maybe this one was part of a bad run, but I would not want one on my layout.
CSXFan wrote: Question for Dave Vollmer.Would you mind telling me what you are using to control the turnouts on you layout? BTW, both your layout and website are VERY nice looking, Almost makes me want to model the Pennsy! I'm using it as a reference as to what I want my layout to look like, accept with modern CSX power. Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks!
I use my fingers to control the turnouts. Peco turnouts have an internal centering spring so they don't need a switch motor or ground throw.
This a great thread for N scale modellers! Nice to know that is good number of enthusiastic N scalers with fantastic layouts.
I would have posted earlier if I hadn't problems with my computer. I have been modelling in N scale since the early 80's and you can call me a one scale modeller!
Cheers,
Is it just me or are the Athearn Challengers taking forever to come in.....Its like waiting for a Christmas that just won't come.
Open question.
What's the best N-scale mag and how do I go about getting one without subscribing? Don't bother saying LHS, cause I don't have one and the closet one I've found doesn't have an N-scale mag.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
SpaceMouse wrote: Open question.What's the best N-scale mag and how do I go about getting one without subscribing? Don't bother saying LHS, cause I don't have one and the closet one I've found doesn't have an N-scale mag.
I prefer N Scale Railroading (NSR). If you've ruled out a subscription and an LHS, you ah, well... won't be getting one. It's not the kind of magazine carried at Barnes and Noble.