Nosiy diesel

[johncolley]

I have a little Baldwin switcher, I think Bachman but I'm not sure, that doesn't sound too bad going forward, but sounds like a coffee grinder going backwards. A friend says that it is possible that the armature has quite a bit of longitudinal play when changing directions and a bit of shimming .005 to .010 at the commutator end may be all that's needed to make it quieter. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Bergie]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

DonGibson, Brakie.

Guys, IMHO it feels like the tension is getting a little thick!

Remember, both of you have given helpful suggestions and views on this and other posts. No need to be irrittated with each other as we're all on the same side (or more accurately-hobby).

Many of us, including me have, gotten our feathers ruffled at some time on this forum. Relax and let it go.

Remember to enjoy this part of the hobby.

Peace out.

Thanks, Antonio!

First, let me remind everyone that there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Second, for those who have forgotten that, please read this.

Your old buddy, Bergie.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by BRAKIE

...
Don, That oversize bulb draws current away from the motor..By removing the bulb the motor will respond smoother and with less throttle.I knew you would find that hard to believe thats why I did not want to answer your question..Frankly I know it helps to remove that bulb.....

Sorry Brakie. That 'Oversized' bulb only pulls 0.05amps @ 10v. It would take 10 bulbs to equal the current draw of 1 Athearn motor, and 17 - 18 for the older version.
Removing the bulb does nothing .
D.G.

[Anonymous]

Just to show that not all Atherns are/were created equal, I have an old PA-1 (no flywheels) that is quiet and smooth. With the shell off you can count the segments on the armature as it turns.
Typical? No!
But interesting nonetheless.

[dragenrider]

I've upgraded a number of Athearn engines by adding new wheels, new gearing, etc. It suddenly struck me that for the money I was spending I could just buy an Atlas, Kato, or P2K engine and have that better engine I was trying to create. [:O]

On the other hand, there's something satisfying about seeing my "Frankenstein's Monster" running smoothly down the main after six months of tinkering. [:P]

[Anonymous]

I came to the same conclusion that dragenrider came to. Why dump any more money into a "project engine". For the $80 PPW chassis kit, you could spend the same, or less on a new Kato GP-35 on ebay.

Here's an example of one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19134&item=5928555375&rd=1

And Don, if I were you, I'd switch to decaf for a while.

[johncolley]

All my athearns run great! But I have a little Baldwin switcher from Bachman. Running forward it sound like a loaded diesel, run backwards it sounds like a coffee grinder! For the $10 I'll send it back to Bachman!

[mcouvillion]

For the engine that runs well in one direction (usually backward) and not well in the other, check the axial endplay of the armature. As mentioned above, there is usually a lot of slop in the armature. Taking this out, so that the brushes track down the middle of the commutator, will significantly improve the motor's performance. Use either the 0.010" or 0.015" Kaydee shims, and cut a small "vee" out of the side, then slip it over the shaft of the armature at the end where the play needs to be removed. Don't get the armature too tight; it should still rotate freely. Lubricate the motor's bearings (where the shaft passes through the frame) with a light lubricant. I prefer and use Dexron II automatic transmission fluid exclusively. Get a needle oiler and place a small drop on the shaft next to the bearing and then rotate the armature by hand to work it in. You should notice the armature freeing up. Then, connect the motor to a power pack and run it in, both directions at varying speeds, for 10 - 15 minutes. The motor should run at about the same speed in both directions at the same throttle setting.

One source of noise not mentioned above is a loose flywheel. Some of the Athearns have a plastic press bushing that attaches the flywheel to the motor shaft and the drive shaft. The flywheel is also pressed to the outside of the bushing. I've had these come loose from the flywheel, then the flywheel rotates on its own around this bushing. Looks great but is loose and causes noise and vibration - especially if it rubs on the shell!

To quiet down the entire engine, read the thread I wrote on lubrication of diesels in another forum. I've written several others on setting up an engine for top performance.

Mark C.