Nosiy diesel

[JeremyB]

I have a noisy atheran GP-35,I have looked the model over a dozen times and I can't find the source,no burrs no dirt no nothing,the gears are lubricated with a plastic compatiable lube,does anybody have any ideas?????

Jeremy

thanks

[Anonymous]

More than likely change the motor to a Sagami or a good aftermarket motor or just leave it as is never heard a locomotive being quiet I have some Athern myself the noise I can bear with either up grade or like I said change the motor ,good luck

[Anonymous]

Greetings,

I had the same problem with a GP 50. I sprayed it with contact cleaner that you use for computers. Remove the shell and spray it down and the contacts.This will clean out any hidden dirt and clean it.

I bought it at my local hobby shop.

Mine purs like a kitten ever since.

Mark in Texas

[ShaunCN]

I find that after a while atheran locomotives tend to quite down a bit. But some motors are still noisey.

[Anonymous]

Noisy Athearns appear to be a very popular topic elsewhere as well.
Therefore I'm not an athearn guy but here's a site that may help.

http://www.rrdepot.com/model/articles/athearnlocos.php

Chuck Walsh

[Anonymous]

The motors can get out of alignment and make a clicking whirring noise. Check the plastic motor retainer to be sure the motor is in all 4 tabs. You can get replacement motor mounts from most LHS if needed. FRED

[AltonFan]

Did you take apart the gear towers and check all the gears?

[Anonymous]

Here's something that I learned many years ago, I've used it and it does work, with a little patients. Someone once told me that very often the gears don't mesh perfectly. If you get a tooth paste with plenty of grit to it, and put it in the gear towers and down inside, run it for a little while, then clean and relube, this should poli***hose gears and make them mesh real nice. Don't let this stuff get into the motor, just the gears. Heres another tip which is somewhat contriversial, some people like to relube with TEFLON GREASE, others like to use a LITE PLASTIC COMPATABLE OIL. Personnally I like the Teflon Grease. Try it , it worked for me.

[nfmisso]

Blue Box Athearn diesels aren't known as "Growlers" for nothing. [:D]

There are several areas that cause the noise in Athearns:
1. gear boxes
2. U-joints
3. sliding shafts
4. motor alignment
5. motor (least contributor)

1. the Pearl Drops solution is effective here. Take the locomotive's truck apart, clean with Dawn, rebuild, lubricating generously with Pearl Drops, run the locomotive forwards and backwards at varying speeds from slow to maximum for 5 minutes in each direction. Take the trucks apart, wash with Dawn, use a small (VERY SMALL) amount of your favorite plastic compatible hobby lubricant.

2/3. Athearn HEX drive piece should be available shortly, or NWSL ($$$).

4. check it.

5. the latest Athearn motors are quite good. Sagami have not been available since the Kube quake a few years ago. Some old stock is around, but nothing new. IMHO the Mashima and Canon are better model train motors than Sagami.

[AntonioFP45]

Good info!

Especially for newbies that are starting to purchase the more expensive units like Kato and Atlas and the "noise" difference becomes quite noticeable.

[Don Gibson]

BEST CHOICE: replace with a PPW chassis www.ppw-aline.com $80
2nd " : replace the motor with a Mashima $40
3rd " : take it apart - reassemble. It may still have the same problem.

Flash on gears will cause binding when lowering the voltage.
Motors vibrate and probably is the source.

B/B Athearns typically took 5v. to start , moving with a 'Jack-rabbit' start
The PPWchassis typically starts @ 2v. with a smooth start, plus it's a perfect fit.

The PPW Because of it's superior electrictal contacts will keep running when the old BB stops. I add Nickle plated brass wheels from NWSL (12) or JayBee (8) for a top running model. Not all ATHEARN B/B buyers are interested in a top running model.
that's their choice. What's yours?

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JeremyB

I have a noisy atheran GP-35,I have looked the model over a dozen times and I can't find the source,no burrs no dirt no nothing,the gears are lubricated with a plastic compatiable lube,does anybody have any ideas????? Jeremy

Your previous post: - Is there some inconsistancy here?

QUOTE: Im a huge fan of Atheran engines,they mind sound a little noisy but the price on them is great,is anybody in agreement with me? ... it would be great to have a whole fleet of these slick engines but for me and other modelers it's just not in our budgets.that's why I love the Atheran.besides a real train is loud and not purring like a kitten on these Kato,and Atlas units.Does anybody else like the sound of the Atherans? - Jeremy

I don't mind it. ...Its the 'Toy-like' starts and stops, iron wheels, and Electrical system I don't like. - DG

[AntonioFP45]

Any opinions on the PPW replacement flywheels? Are the brass flywheels that come on the stock BB Athearns good enough?

[BRAKIE]

Before you go spending any money try this..Add stick on weight(I use A-Line's) to the inside top of the shell..This will cut down on the shell chatter..The shell chatter is cause by the way Athearn mounts the body on to the frame...A proper tune up will work wonders...Also remove the light bulb by doing this the unit will run far better..

[Don Gibson]

Adding weights to the shell merely shift's the resonance up or down. . The cause of the resonance is motor vibration. You can accompli***he same thing by removing the shell. The resonance is gone but the vibration is still there.

Brakie: How do you explain by removing the light bulb it "will run far better"?
The 12 volt bulb is fed by the track not the motor ; and in DCC it is fed by the module board.

[BRAKIE]

Don,I don't answer baited questions..Try it for yourself.You just *might* learn a new trick..

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by BRAKIE

Don,I don't answer baited questions..Try it for yourself.You just *might* learn a new trick..

Larry:. .It was not a 'trick' question. All my Athearn BB engines had JSR directional lighting boards installed long ago, so I cannot duplicate your 'fete' .

I guess the question will go unanswered.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by AntonioFP45

Any opinions on the PPW replacement flywheels? Are the brass flywheels that come on the stock BB Athearns good enough?

Antonio: Probably good enough, however the problem is will they fit the other's motor shaft?? it's the inner dimensions.

[BRAKIE]

Don, That oversize bulb [xx(] draws current away from the motor..By removing the bulb the motor will respond smoother and with less throttle..That is the very first thing I remove from my few Athearns..The second thing I do is tweak the drive and then hardwire the motor leads and before I add the shell I add 4-6 pieces of A-Line stick on weight to cut down on the shell chatter...This makes a smoother and some what quieter running locomotive..

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks Don Gibson,

I'm going to be upgrading 2 Athearn FP45s and 2 U33Bs with Mashima motors and NWSL wheel sets. Looks like I'm going to have to get the matching flywheels. Since these units will be receiving DCC/Sound (Tsunami, hopefully) and full lighting effects, I do want them to be smooth performing "Top Runners " with low amp draw. I don't mind spending a little extra and avoid headaches later.

Peace and 10-4!

[Don Gibson]

The Mashima motors (with flywheels) are sold by Proto PowerWest as a kit for $40 which includes by pass wiring (good). They also have a special cradle weight for $5 you may want to consider. It adds to the pulling power .

Best to order the same SIZE wheels from NWSL otherwise the coupler heght will change. Choice of Nickle plated brass or solid nickle silver.

[AntonioFP45]

Thanks again, Don.

I had forgotten about the PPW kits as I hadn't visited that website in a long while. I'll check it out again. I'll get the kits through my LHS.

[Nieuweboer]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson

Adding weights to the shell merely shift's the resonance up or down. . The cause of the resonance is motor vibration. You can accompli***he same thing by removing the shell. The resonance is gone but the vibration is still there.

Brakie: How do you explain by removing the light bulb it "will run far better"?
The 12 volt bulb is fed by the track not the motor ; and in DCC it is fed by the module board.

I try to counter the vibration by sticking thin strips of foam to the sides of the motor so vibrations are less transferred the shell. Thin 2-sided tape is best.
Replace the 12 V bulb by bright white LED's and you have automatically directional
lighting too.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Replace the 12 V bulb by bright white LED's and you have automatically directional lighting too.

No question it will be bright, but how long will a White LED made to run at 5v. last on 12v. DC?

[Don Gibson]

[quote:] BRAKIE
Don, That oversize bulb draws current away from the motor..By removing the bulb the motor will respond smoother and with less throttle

[BRAKIE]

Do as you wish Don..I knew you would find that hard to believe thats why I did not want toanswer your question..Frankly I know it helps to remove that bulb..I could more then likely teach that guru of yours a thing or two...
Have a nice night Don.

[Anonymous]

Brakie,
Since you're answering Athearn questions...How do you hardwire an Athearn. I've read several other peoples suggestions but would like to read yours.

I'm really interested in how you chose to do i.e. positive side or top side only and do you solder your leads to the trucks or use clips?

I look forward to your response.

Edit

You can answer here or on the Gauge if you're more comfortable there.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by BRAKIE
..I could more then likely teach that guru of yours a thing or two...

I'll tell him, but I don't think it'll do much good. Sorta like you.

[BRAKIE]

DT,Send me a PM on the Gauge and I will answer your question and what I do to the bottom of the motor.Its easy and no cost involved.

[RicHamilton]

Actually my GP 38-2 was making a lot of noise and I actually had to take the motor apart because one of the magnets was not put in properly from the factory. Works better now. Is it quiet? No. Is it quieter? Yes. Prototypes make noise too.

Also, add a little lube where the shafts go throgh the mounts near the flywheels. It cuts down on the initial voltage required to get the motor spinning by reducing the friction

Ric
Berwick, NS