Quick Bridge Question

[der5997]

I wanted to cross a window space with two tracks side by side on separate bridges. It now seems that a single bridge, double track, may be the more practical solution. However, I don't know who makes double track N bridges. ( A quick look at Atlas' online catalogue shows none.)
Also, what is the track spacing (center to center) on the bridges you may suggest?
thanks.

[der5997]

I wanted to cross a window space with two tracks side by side on separate bridges. It now seems that a single bridge, double track, may be the more practical solution. However, I don't know who makes double track N bridges. ( A quick look at Atlas' online catalogue shows none.)
Also, what is the track spacing (center to center) on the bridges you may suggest?
thanks.

[Anonymous]

make it by hand...the most rewarding way to do anything in model railroading is to do it yourself...at least thats how I feel. Just look at pictures and scratch build

[Anonymous]

make it by hand...the most rewarding way to do anything in model railroading is to do it yourself...at least thats how I feel. Just look at pictures and scratch build

[Jacktal]

Kibri used to make a good looking arch bridge,about 10 in. long,for double "N" scale tracks...may be they still do.

[Jacktal]

Kibri used to make a good looking arch bridge,about 10 in. long,for double "N" scale tracks...may be they still do.

[Anonymous]

When I needed a double track bridge in HO I built one by cutting apart 2 and glueing them back together. www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/zmt36.html should take you to a picture of it.

[Anonymous]

When I needed a double track bridge in HO I built one by cutting apart 2 and glueing them back together. www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/zmt36.html should take you to a picture of it.

[Anonymous]

When I needed a double track bridge in HO I built one by cutting apart 2 and glueing them back together. www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/zmt36.html should take you to a picture of it.

[Anonymous]

When I needed a double track bridge in HO I built one by cutting apart 2 and glueing them back together. www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/zmt36.html should take you to a picture of it.

[der5997]

Thanks flea, nice looking bridge. I've since found out that Cornerstone does a double track through truss in N. I'll ask them about he track spacing and see if my LHS (L in this case being a 2 hour drive [:(] ) can get me two or three for a reasonable price. Failing that it will have to be the online discounters!

Thanks for your input folks.

[der5997]

Thanks flea, nice looking bridge. I've since found out that Cornerstone does a double track through truss in N. I'll ask them about he track spacing and see if my LHS (L in this case being a 2 hour drive [:(] ) can get me two or three for a reasonable price. Failing that it will have to be the online discounters!

Thanks for your input folks.

[Anonymous]

I didn't notice the bridge length you were after nor the clearance over any obstacles or track beneath. If you are sufficiently high up you should consider a trestle of parallel deck girder spans. If you have little clearance beneath, you should stick with a series of through truss spans (a real 'double track' bridge as you have mentioned) or a series of double track through girder spans. If the vertical clearance beneath the bridge is small and short spans are permissable, the railroad would most likely go with the through girder option rather than the through truss option. MEI makes a girder bridge and girder parts you could use for this. Whether you use girders or trusses, make sure to make good looking bearings for your spans. It makes all the difference in the world to the bridges appearance. Good Luck - Ed

[Anonymous]

I didn't notice the bridge length you were after nor the clearance over any obstacles or track beneath. If you are sufficiently high up you should consider a trestle of parallel deck girder spans. If you have little clearance beneath, you should stick with a series of through truss spans (a real 'double track' bridge as you have mentioned) or a series of double track through girder spans. If the vertical clearance beneath the bridge is small and short spans are permissable, the railroad would most likely go with the through girder option rather than the through truss option. MEI makes a girder bridge and girder parts you could use for this. Whether you use girders or trusses, make sure to make good looking bearings for your spans. It makes all the difference in the world to the bridges appearance. Good Luck - Ed

[Anonymous]

i was in the same boat as u...dbl bridge....and i considered the cornerstone bride also..but after some thought i decided im gonna scratch a 8" high by 15-20" long wooden tressel even though im modeling modern era thr bridge will be front and center on my layout and i think they look entirely too cool not to have one...scott

[Anonymous]

i was in the same boat as u...dbl bridge....and i considered the cornerstone bride also..but after some thought i decided im gonna scratch a 8" high by 15-20" long wooden tressel even though im modeling modern era thr bridge will be front and center on my layout and i think they look entirely too cool not to have one...scott

[dknelson]

Don't ignore the European sections of the Walthers catalog when it comes to things like bridges.
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

Don't ignore the European sections of the Walthers catalog when it comes to things like bridges.
Dave Nelson

[der5997]

Thanks Dave and slossmo. I've the 1999 Walther's N&Z, and I see the Kibri and other european models. I like the look of a through truss for the site. I'm "all tressled out" as I've had tressles on all my other layouts, and wanted to do something different for me. thanks cablebridge for the advice. My clearance beneath is entirely up to me at t his point, but I was going for the look of the shallow river crossings in the "red mud" coastline of Nova Scotia, so low clearance will probably rule. I had intended to do the bridge bearings as best I could. I've seen what a difference even little chips of styrene at the corners of the bridge where it sits on the abutment make.
I'm waiting for the good folks at Walthers to get to work tomorrow and begin answereing their mail. Then I'll learn the track center separation foro the Cornerstone N double track through truss. Then I can lay the approach tracks up to the bridge. After that is the real engineering. If I ever figure out how to put pics on a forum, I'll let you know how it goes!

[der5997]

Thanks Dave and slossmo. I've the 1999 Walther's N&Z, and I see the Kibri and other european models. I like the look of a through truss for the site. I'm "all tressled out" as I've had tressles on all my other layouts, and wanted to do something different for me. thanks cablebridge for the advice. My clearance beneath is entirely up to me at t his point, but I was going for the look of the shallow river crossings in the "red mud" coastline of Nova Scotia, so low clearance will probably rule. I had intended to do the bridge bearings as best I could. I've seen what a difference even little chips of styrene at the corners of the bridge where it sits on the abutment make.
I'm waiting for the good folks at Walthers to get to work tomorrow and begin answereing their mail. Then I'll learn the track center separation foro the Cornerstone N double track through truss. Then I can lay the approach tracks up to the bridge. After that is the real engineering. If I ever figure out how to put pics on a forum, I'll let you know how it goes!