QUOTE: Originally posted by CARRfan Maybe I should put it this way: Around-the-walls style requires total dedication of "model railroad area" to the space used. Although a 4 x 8 may require "walk-around-room", it can also get shoved out of the way when you need to cut some lumber in the garage, fix your bike, etc. I'm definitely still a fan of around-the-walls style layouts, but I'm wondering if they'll fit in with my other garage needs. I will say this: If I was in N scale, I would no-doubt have a shelf layout. N scale is small enough that you could have return loops within a 2.5 or so wide shelf. That is awesome, and extremely tempting. Unfortunately, my heart is in HO, so I'm stuck with it! Arggghhh!
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
John
QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer let's do the math ... a 4x8 layout requires space all around it so you can access it from all sides because none of us can reach across 4 feet to rerail a car or engine...
QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson ANY layout needs an sending point and destination. Example: A coal mine & Power Plant; A Citrus shipper and receiving sheds.The amount of track in-between is secondary. How many times around the loop before brain boredom sets in should be considered. A contiuous loop going round and round may sound good, but the switching is where most of what's interesting is.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer let's do the math ... a 4x8 layout requires space all around it so you can access it from all sides because none of us can reach across 4 feet to rerail a car or engine . assuming a 2 foot aisle all around our 4x8 means we need an 8x12 room to put it in . a 4x8 is 32 square feet . if you build the layout as a 2 foot shelf around the walls of that 8x12 room (leaving a 4x8 space in the middle for operators) you end up with 64 square feet of space ! yes that's double the 4x8 and you're not using an inch more space in the house . if you build it as an 18" wide shelf around the room and put it at chest height for the best viewing angle , the layout almost doesn't take any space in the room at all , because you'll use the space under it for storage
QUOTE: Originally posted by CARRfan I just dug up some old CAD files I was working on months ago, and came accross an idea I hadn't thought about for a long time. It's an L-shaped "switching layout", but then there are "removable" sections that can make the L a full circle.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Originally posted by BRAKIE ============================================================ CNJ831,I have built round the wall layouts in spare bedroom..The windows didn't stop me..I built right past those windows like they wasn't there.[:D] =========================================================== Brakie - If I took such total possession of our spare bedroom and ran the layout across the windows and closet doors, I'd not only be looking for a new location for the layout but for a new residence and new wife! Plus, all the train money would be going to pay alimony![;)] CNJ831 Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:09 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by BRAKIE Know what I say? A 4x8 foot layout beats no layout if one is not into industrial switching and why bother coming on a forum asking about thoughts on a 4x8 footer with the well known prejudices against the 4x8? Why not be a outlaw and just build it? After all its your hobby and your space so,as the saying goes,dream it,plan it built it. I add this..Just do it.[:D] Not everybody realizes, especially in the beginning, that there <is> an anti-4x8 prejudice, especially considering all the books and magazine articles about them. They may innocently open the lid on that box, genuinely hoping for help and constructive opinions. I've been modeling off-and-on for almost 20 years and didn't know until I encountered this forum that there's such a bias... Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:13 AM I have an L shaped, 2 level layout but the the main track on the bottom is on a 13x4 which of course only lets me have 22" curves. I have yet to find a passenger car i can't run, if its amtrak and plastic, i have it (im not into brass), derailments are very very rare, usually due to someone bumping the table hard. I can get my 10 car walthers superliner and 8 car walthers budds up to 75% throttle no problems, my horizons and amfleets work great to, and of course the kato business cars run fine and the bi-levels run fabulous at scale speed in reverse! Sure they don't look as good as they would on 40" turns but im happy to be able to run them so don't believe all these people that say 4x8 takes you out of the passenger world. If you don't care about a little over hang and you have 22" curves you can run most plastic passenger equiptment just fine. Mine are all stock out of the box BTW, though i did put the cinematic couplers on the kato cars. Reply Edit fwright Member sinceNovember 2002 From: Colorado 4,075 posts Posted by fwright on Thursday, May 18, 2006 9:26 AM I don't have great answers, just sharing my experiences. I have moved a lot, and have had a succession of small island layouts. I really never got far enough on the HO layouts (many were 3 rail O) to know if I would enjoy a strictly switching layout. All were either 4x8 or 4x6 (some places I couldn't get that 4x8 into!). I accepted the short train/sharp curve limitation of these small layouts a long time ago, and now take great pleasure modeling short lines in the 1900 era. But as I age, I'm finding the biggest limitation of the 4x8 is putting in decent lighting. I generally have to use a bedroom or family room (if there is a basement to dedicate I can't spend that kind of time hidden from the family anyway) , and have yet to find one that has adequate lighting for either working on the layout or showing off scenery properly. Since most houses have been rented (3 of 13 owned), doing lighting installed into the ceiling is a non-starter. Harold showed one way to rig decent lighting on his 4x8, but it does reduce the portability somewhat. And Harold's method is still not as easy as running lights on the underside of a bookshelf hung over the layout. This next layout - we're moving into a temporary apartment next week and all my trains are packed - I' m leaning toward a shelf layout. My reasons include ability to put it in any room in the house (if it looks good enough), easier to light and provide a backdrop, anda chance to try something different. I plan to have a portable test track, about 40" x 48" that I stand against a wall near my workbench when not in use. The test track should take care of my continuous run urges. But then, if I'm going to have a test track and a switching layout, why not build a 4x6 to 5x8 scenicked layout in the first place? Decisions, decisions.... My grand plan if I do someday get a dedicated basement or family room includes a 5x8 section (with an oval!) plus extensions to 2x8 shelf sections around the wall or on peninsulas. my thoughts, your choices because I can't make up my mind! Fred W Reply BRAKIE Member sinceOctober 2001 From: OH 17,574 posts Posted by BRAKIE on Thursday, May 18, 2006 10:10 AM Fred,For lighting the layout I have always like nature sun light that filters through windows.After dark I use a floor lamp for lighting for my industrial switching layout .I find this works quite well and gives the layout enough light without needing special lights..Understand I loath using overhead lights in my home. Larry Conductor. Summerset Ry. "Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!" Reply jeffers_mz Member sinceNovember 2005 1,223 posts Posted by jeffers_mz on Thursday, May 18, 2006 11:26 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by RedGrey62 Another idea I had pondered with the 4X8s I built. What about a 1 foot by roughly the table hieght extension that would be hinged off of one or even two corners for staging or fiddling. Almost like a drop leaf. Tempoaray leg or legs could be attached. Again, trying to keep in the spirit of a 4X8 but with some added operations. Rick %$^&*&^%$... Two opposing things going on...a great idea that solves a lot of problems for me, and they just threw a severe T-storm warning for my area. The power outages in this rural area have been ripping my computer network apart, and it killed my furnace too, so I'm going to have to drop out of here very soon. Rick, that is a super idea, I owe you a sixpack of choice for that one. You can collect when you help me line up my new dropleaf. :-) Reply jeffers_mz Member sinceNovember 2005 1,223 posts Posted by jeffers_mz on Thursday, May 18, 2006 11:35 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by fwright I don't have great answers, just sharing my experiences. I have moved a lot, and have had a succession of small island layouts. I really never got far enough on the HO layouts (many were 3 rail O) to know if I would enjoy a strictly switching layout. All were either 4x8 or 4x6 (some places I couldn't get that 4x8 into!). I accepted the short train/sharp curve limitation of these small layouts a long time ago, and now take great pleasure modeling short lines in the 1900 era. But as I age, I'm finding the biggest limitation of the 4x8 is putting in decent lighting. I generally have to use a bedroom or family room (if there is a basement to dedicate I can't spend that kind of time hidden from the family anyway) , and have yet to find one that has adequate lighting for either working on the layout or showing off scenery properly. Since most houses have been rented (3 of 13 owned), doing lighting installed into the ceiling is a non-starter. Harold showed one way to rig decent lighting on his 4x8, but it does reduce the portability somewhat. And Harold's method is still not as easy as running lights on the underside of a bookshelf hung over the layout. This next layout - we're moving into a temporary apartment next week and all my trains are packed - I' m leaning toward a shelf layout. My reasons include ability to put it in any room in the house (if it looks good enough), easier to light and provide a backdrop, anda chance to try something different. I plan to have a portable test track, about 40" x 48" that I stand against a wall near my workbench when not in use. The test track should take care of my continuous run urges. But then, if I'm going to have a test track and a switching layout, why not build a 4x6 to 5x8 scenicked layout in the first place? Decisions, decisions.... My grand plan if I do someday get a dedicated basement or family room includes a 5x8 section (with an oval!) plus extensions to 2x8 shelf sections around the wall or on peninsulas. my thoughts, your choices because I can't make up my mind! Fred W Fred, the lights aren't the problem, it's those cheap new bulbs. For some reason a 100 watt bulb puts out less than a quarter of the light it did 30 years ago when I was 15. One option is the low cost floor lamps from Wal-mart. They take up very little floor space, maybe a square foot, are easily portable, and put out a ton of diffuse light, reflecrting off the ceiling (if you have a white ceiling). 100, 200 or 300 watts at the touch of a switch, daylight balanced bulbs available, ten or twele bucks for the fixture. Gotta run, the lights here are already flickering. BBL. Reply RedGrey62 Member sinceAugust 2001 From: Nebraska 1,280 posts Posted by RedGrey62 on Thursday, May 18, 2006 11:49 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by jeffers_mz %$^&*&^%$... Two opposing things going on...a great idea that solves a lot of problems for me, and they just threw a severe T-storm warning for my area. The power outages in this rural area have been ripping my computer network apart, and it killed my furnace too, so I'm going to have to drop out of here very soon. Rick, that is a super idea, I owe you a sixpack of choice for that one. You can collect when you help me line up my new dropleaf. :-) Severe Thunderstorms AND Trains, that covers all my bases (weather forecaster). I would think that a piano (IIRC) hinge would work the best. After you line up the extension with the corner, the paino hinge could be fastened to the bottom of the frames of the 4X8 and the extension. A small section(s) of track would be used to bridge from teh layout to the extension, similar to how modules are connected. Rick "...Mother Nature will always punish the incompetent and uninformed." Bill Barney from Thor's Legions Reply Don Gibson Member sinceJune 2004 From: Pacific Northwest 3,864 posts Posted by Don Gibson on Thursday, May 18, 2006 1:40 PM Let's Talk about 5X10's... A Table Tennis ('ping pong') table is 5' x 10'. Let's put it in a 5X10 room. (To play takes more than a 5X10 room). Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ########################### Reply ereimer Member sinceJune 2003 From: CANADA 2,292 posts Posted by ereimer on Thursday, May 18, 2006 4:45 PM Originally posted by Don Gibson PROBLEM WITH 4X8's: Like a Pool Table they require much more space to use them. 2. E. Reimer may fit through a 2' aisle but I can't. 2 people normally don't fit throught a doorway at the same time. Better to reverse the allotment of space and use the 4X8 as space to operate from.. LOL i don't really fit in a 2' aisle either , which means a 4x8 takes even more space than my example . if we say we need a 3' aisle around the 4x8 that makes a 10x14 room , our 2' shelf then gives us 80 square feet of layout space (that's 150% more than our 4x8) and a 6x10 space in the middle for the operators Reply ereimer Member sinceJune 2003 From: CANADA 2,292 posts Posted by ereimer on Thursday, May 18, 2006 4:59 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by jsmaye QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer let's do the math ... a 4x8 layout requires space all around it so you can access it from all sides because none of us can reach across 4 feet to rerail a car or engine... Not entirely true. It is possible to butt one of the short sides against a wall and still reach everything from the aisles along the two long sides and the third short one. This changes the 'footprint' from an 8x12 to 8x10. oh hush ! you're spoiling my argument [:D] Reply SpaceMouse Member sinceDecember 2004 From: Rimrock, Arizona 11,251 posts Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:12 PM If you look on Harold site, he has a design where you take a couple diagonals off one side and put then on the other so that you have points on both ends of the 4x8. You then take that set-up and put it in a corner with the 4 x8, now pointed, as a peninsula into the room. While he runs around a small rom, you can run 24" 2 foot extension in both directions along the wall. It gives you 4 scenes and both point to point and continuous running . http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/ Look down past his tutorials. Chip Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos. Reply NYCentral1 Member sinceDecember 2001 From: Missouri 366 posts Posted by NYCentral1 on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:39 PM Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? Reply jeffers_mz Member sinceNovember 2005 1,223 posts Posted by jeffers_mz on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:39 PM Somebody better tell my 4x8 that it requires 140 square feet of floor space, because it seems to be content with a mere 32. I expect the layout police to knock on the door any minute now. :-D Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:40 PM No need to design a pulley system anymore. They sell them and they work great for this purpose. http://www.hoister.com/default.php And I will still get two cars in my garage. :) You may also consider a L shaped layout. Ads some interesting variations. I'm in the exact same deal as this guy and I can tell you people actually sent me private messages saying, "You'll regret doing a 4 x8" I also mentioned in another forum I wasn't interested in intense switching a few sidings were fine. Wow the hate mail I received I had to leave the forum. I don't get it. Why not be supportive to people's wants...make suggestions and leave it at that. I finally decided on a L shaped layout. Still tweaking it at this point. I also plan to lift it up to the garage ceiling so I can park my Hyundai in the garage. My wife was thrilled with the plan. QUOTE: Originally posted by rrgrassi A standard size 2 car garage should be 20' w x 20-24' l. You could do a 4 x 16, or a 5 x 16, or a 6 x 16 as well. Rolling the setup is a good idea. You could also design a fold up, stored on the garage wall, or design a winch and pulley lifting system. You could also do a modular set up where you can do switching and continual running. Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 6:19 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by NYCentral1 Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? Wood putty and some paint then the scenery, or you could use plaster cloth also but if you make the cut good the seem will be so small you can just use the putty or caulk. Reply Edit SpaceMouse Member sinceDecember 2004 From: Rimrock, Arizona 11,251 posts Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, May 18, 2006 6:29 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by NYCentral1 Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? The seem is in the plywood not the scenery. The seem is there only if you plan a plywood empire. I have two seems in mine, but I dare you to find them. Okay if you get down under the layout and look up. Chip Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos. Reply 123 Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up
QUOTE: Originally posted by BRAKIE Know what I say? A 4x8 foot layout beats no layout if one is not into industrial switching and why bother coming on a forum asking about thoughts on a 4x8 footer with the well known prejudices against the 4x8? Why not be a outlaw and just build it? After all its your hobby and your space so,as the saying goes,dream it,plan it built it. I add this..Just do it.[:D]
QUOTE: Originally posted by RedGrey62 Another idea I had pondered with the 4X8s I built. What about a 1 foot by roughly the table hieght extension that would be hinged off of one or even two corners for staging or fiddling. Almost like a drop leaf. Tempoaray leg or legs could be attached. Again, trying to keep in the spirit of a 4X8 but with some added operations. Rick
QUOTE: Originally posted by fwright I don't have great answers, just sharing my experiences. I have moved a lot, and have had a succession of small island layouts. I really never got far enough on the HO layouts (many were 3 rail O) to know if I would enjoy a strictly switching layout. All were either 4x8 or 4x6 (some places I couldn't get that 4x8 into!). I accepted the short train/sharp curve limitation of these small layouts a long time ago, and now take great pleasure modeling short lines in the 1900 era. But as I age, I'm finding the biggest limitation of the 4x8 is putting in decent lighting. I generally have to use a bedroom or family room (if there is a basement to dedicate I can't spend that kind of time hidden from the family anyway) , and have yet to find one that has adequate lighting for either working on the layout or showing off scenery properly. Since most houses have been rented (3 of 13 owned), doing lighting installed into the ceiling is a non-starter. Harold showed one way to rig decent lighting on his 4x8, but it does reduce the portability somewhat. And Harold's method is still not as easy as running lights on the underside of a bookshelf hung over the layout. This next layout - we're moving into a temporary apartment next week and all my trains are packed - I' m leaning toward a shelf layout. My reasons include ability to put it in any room in the house (if it looks good enough), easier to light and provide a backdrop, anda chance to try something different. I plan to have a portable test track, about 40" x 48" that I stand against a wall near my workbench when not in use. The test track should take care of my continuous run urges. But then, if I'm going to have a test track and a switching layout, why not build a 4x6 to 5x8 scenicked layout in the first place? Decisions, decisions.... My grand plan if I do someday get a dedicated basement or family room includes a 5x8 section (with an oval!) plus extensions to 2x8 shelf sections around the wall or on peninsulas. my thoughts, your choices because I can't make up my mind! Fred W
QUOTE: Originally posted by jeffers_mz %$^&*&^%$... Two opposing things going on...a great idea that solves a lot of problems for me, and they just threw a severe T-storm warning for my area. The power outages in this rural area have been ripping my computer network apart, and it killed my furnace too, so I'm going to have to drop out of here very soon. Rick, that is a super idea, I owe you a sixpack of choice for that one. You can collect when you help me line up my new dropleaf. :-)
Originally posted by Don Gibson PROBLEM WITH 4X8's: Like a Pool Table they require much more space to use them. 2. E. Reimer may fit through a 2' aisle but I can't. 2 people normally don't fit throught a doorway at the same time. Better to reverse the allotment of space and use the 4X8 as space to operate from.. LOL i don't really fit in a 2' aisle either , which means a 4x8 takes even more space than my example . if we say we need a 3' aisle around the 4x8 that makes a 10x14 room , our 2' shelf then gives us 80 square feet of layout space (that's 150% more than our 4x8) and a 6x10 space in the middle for the operators Reply ereimer Member sinceJune 2003 From: CANADA 2,292 posts Posted by ereimer on Thursday, May 18, 2006 4:59 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by jsmaye QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer let's do the math ... a 4x8 layout requires space all around it so you can access it from all sides because none of us can reach across 4 feet to rerail a car or engine... Not entirely true. It is possible to butt one of the short sides against a wall and still reach everything from the aisles along the two long sides and the third short one. This changes the 'footprint' from an 8x12 to 8x10. oh hush ! you're spoiling my argument [:D] Reply SpaceMouse Member sinceDecember 2004 From: Rimrock, Arizona 11,251 posts Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:12 PM If you look on Harold site, he has a design where you take a couple diagonals off one side and put then on the other so that you have points on both ends of the 4x8. You then take that set-up and put it in a corner with the 4 x8, now pointed, as a peninsula into the room. While he runs around a small rom, you can run 24" 2 foot extension in both directions along the wall. It gives you 4 scenes and both point to point and continuous running . http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/4x8/ Look down past his tutorials. Chip Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos. Reply NYCentral1 Member sinceDecember 2001 From: Missouri 366 posts Posted by NYCentral1 on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:39 PM Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? Reply jeffers_mz Member sinceNovember 2005 1,223 posts Posted by jeffers_mz on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:39 PM Somebody better tell my 4x8 that it requires 140 square feet of floor space, because it seems to be content with a mere 32. I expect the layout police to knock on the door any minute now. :-D Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 5:40 PM No need to design a pulley system anymore. They sell them and they work great for this purpose. http://www.hoister.com/default.php And I will still get two cars in my garage. :) You may also consider a L shaped layout. Ads some interesting variations. I'm in the exact same deal as this guy and I can tell you people actually sent me private messages saying, "You'll regret doing a 4 x8" I also mentioned in another forum I wasn't interested in intense switching a few sidings were fine. Wow the hate mail I received I had to leave the forum. I don't get it. Why not be supportive to people's wants...make suggestions and leave it at that. I finally decided on a L shaped layout. Still tweaking it at this point. I also plan to lift it up to the garage ceiling so I can park my Hyundai in the garage. My wife was thrilled with the plan. QUOTE: Originally posted by rrgrassi A standard size 2 car garage should be 20' w x 20-24' l. You could do a 4 x 16, or a 5 x 16, or a 6 x 16 as well. Rolling the setup is a good idea. You could also design a fold up, stored on the garage wall, or design a winch and pulley lifting system. You could also do a modular set up where you can do switching and continual running. Reply Edit Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 18, 2006 6:19 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by NYCentral1 Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? Wood putty and some paint then the scenery, or you could use plaster cloth also but if you make the cut good the seem will be so small you can just use the putty or caulk. Reply Edit SpaceMouse Member sinceDecember 2004 From: Rimrock, Arizona 11,251 posts Posted by SpaceMouse on Thursday, May 18, 2006 6:29 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by NYCentral1 Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam? The seem is in the plywood not the scenery. The seem is there only if you plan a plywood empire. I have two seems in mine, but I dare you to find them. Okay if you get down under the layout and look up. Chip Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos. Reply 123 Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up
QUOTE: Originally posted by jsmaye QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer let's do the math ... a 4x8 layout requires space all around it so you can access it from all sides because none of us can reach across 4 feet to rerail a car or engine... Not entirely true. It is possible to butt one of the short sides against a wall and still reach everything from the aisles along the two long sides and the third short one. This changes the 'footprint' from an 8x12 to 8x10.
QUOTE: Originally posted by rrgrassi A standard size 2 car garage should be 20' w x 20-24' l. You could do a 4 x 16, or a 5 x 16, or a 6 x 16 as well. Rolling the setup is a good idea. You could also design a fold up, stored on the garage wall, or design a winch and pulley lifting system. You could also do a modular set up where you can do switching and continual running.
QUOTE: Originally posted by NYCentral1 Ok, say you were going to build a 5 x 8 layout, what do you do about the top sheet, since the usually come in 4 ft widths? You could put in a 1 x 8 piece, but what do you do about the obvious seam?