GLEAM PROCESS; WHO HAS TRIED AND WHAT OUTCOME? updated 6/4/06

[Anonymous]

How about some feedback from the modellers who HAVE tried the GLEAM process? Since I happened upon it back in November of '05, my research is very conclusive thus far that it indeed has GREAT merit. I merely ask that others share thier experience with it, GOOD OR BAD. Hope to hear from ALL of you who tried it. Thanks!
There has been positive feedback lately from a few who have tried; visit my profile page for the related topics on this amazing process.

[AntonioFP45]

Semafore,

I still agree that this idea has great potential. Even though I have most of the materials on hand that would allow me to construct a new layout, I've been so busy that I haven't had a chance yet.

Once I do finally build it, I will try this "gleam" process on a segment of mainline and observe it over a time period. Hopefully someone here will try it before then.

Roger that.

[snuffy]

I "Gleamed" about 3 months ago and haven't cleaned the rails since. [tup]

[rayw46]

Okay, I give up, what's the GLEAM process?

[jeffrey-wimberly]

QUOTE: Okay, I give up, what's the GLEAM process?

[#ditto]

[jecorbett]

I am assuming this uses one of a number of metal polishes that are available. Just about every brand has its advocates who have endorsed it on these boards. I tried Flix and was very unhappy with the results. It does a fine job of cleaning the rails but it is very difficult to apply neatly and leftover residue that gets on the ties turns green. One method of applying it that has been suggested is to attach a small piece of roadbed to a block of wood. I tried this and the results were a little better but still got excess on the ties. The trick is to apply just enough to coat the top of the rail which is very difficult to do. I've gone back to using Railzip which doesn't leave a residue when it dries. I also use Brite Boy erasers on especially dirty sections.

[AntonioFP45]

O.K,

Hopefully Simon1966 won't fry me for this, but I'll find the original "Gleam" topic and bring it up to the front page as it has the "step-by-step" process.

Ray, Jeff, when you see it you can respond to that topic.

[simon1966]

[:D] I 'll tell you what Antonio, you have a darned sight more patience than me when it comes to the search function and finding things on the forum. I would never fry you, I consider you the master of the lost topic [bow]

[Paul W. Beverung]

I'll add my " What's the gleam process?"

[selector]

I'll try my hand at the search, but in a nutshell, you scrub the track surface with 350 grit sandpaper, not wearing it down thin, just a scuff, and then use 600-grit or emery cloth to polish it. Then, you scrub the rail tops with a piece of steel to get the "gleam" like the real thing. It works, if others' testimonials are anything to go by.

The other method that is gaining currency is cmrproducts' use of metal polishes, like Mothers Mag Wheel polish, or Black Magic metal polish (sparingly) on a rag. This method seems to leave a lasting coating after it has been allowed to dry to a haze and then buffed off with a clean rag. The coating inhibits re-oxidation...or so it is claimed... and keeps your electrical pickup in top form, and keeps wheels clean.

[cmrproducts]

I use an old piece of HO cork roadbed material (Midwest brand) and put a little of the polish on the cork. I then rub the rails and usually do about 8 to 10 feet at a time. I then use a clean piece of cork to buff the rails to remove the haze that forms after the polish dries. And that is it! I just continue doing sections and buffing the rails.

I get very little if any polish on the sides of the rails unless I put too much on the cork.

I have also tried using a small piece of Homasote. It works but if you have any sharp edges at any rail joint, it will find them and begin tearing the Homasote. This will cause small bits of the Homasote cardboard to fall off and usually get stuck in the turnouts, not a good thing! This is why I went with the cork.

This also applies to the cotton cloth. It will leave little pieces of lint at any sharp edge (again removing the sharp edges is recommended).

I have tried a lot of different things to put the metal polish on the rail heads and I still keep coming back to a piece of cork!

As a side benefit, when finding the sharp edges at rail joints it would be wise to use a fine file to remove these edges. This eliminates any chance for the engine and car wheels of catching them and derailing!

Yes it takes a little time but once you get into the swing of it, it will go real fast.

But remember that the main benefit is not having to clean the rails again for years at a time!

Bob H – Clarion, PA

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I've done a search of all open topics, over a 1,000 pages, and found no reference to the 'GLEAM' process beyond this one. If there is another, it'll take somebody smarter than me to find it.

[AntonioFP45]

Jeff, I've brought it up. It's the RAILS TO GLEAM OR NOT TO GLEAM topic that has a poll with it. The info is on that one!

I'll bump it up to the front page one more time. (forum members, please bear with me)

[howmus]

Well, I have done a few rails on the SlO&W. Just tried to start a loco that was sitting on a track that has not had it done. Didn't respond. Pushed it a little, it ran about 4 inches and stopped. I took a rag with track cleaner on it and it finally made out of the siding. Removed the loco and took it to the workbench to brush off all the dust and dirt on the loco. My layout has been under the gun of construction dust and sitting without running for several months. I wiped off the mainline (that had been polished with the Gleam Method) with a dry rag. Put the loco on it. The loco ran beautifully!

I'm a believer!

[1shado1]

QUOTE: Originally posted by rayw46

Okay, I give up, what's the GLEAM process?

It's only brought up every couple of months.[:D]

[SilverSpike]

All references to the Gleam process can be found at semafore's profile.
Original posting:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53843
And his update:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=2&TOPIC_ID=53843

[Anonymous]

Finally. I cannot STAND dial-up, but a storm took out the cable modem server in the community. Staying connected is a hope........
The GLEAM proces, topics are on my profile page. There is no documented proof, publication, or video on this trully innovative approach to rail maintenance, but IT DOES WORK! ESPECIALLY for those finicky DCC decoders! No greater pain than when a DCC engine always falters, going thru the start-up sequence repeatedly; the GLEAM finish is so much more RELIABLE! The Fact is that the BLACK STUFF that comes off the rails is the CARBON ARC FLUX RESIDUE from the electric current flowing thru a MOVING TARGET, leaving a little residue with each loco pass; PLASTIC WHEELS ARE NOT THE CULPRIT. A DRY WIPE is all that's needed occasionaly; I find that liquids dilute the carbon and let it seep into the tiny pores of the railstock. The fact is, since a GLEAMED rail is much less porous, it holds much less carbon residue. Avoiding liquid cleaners ensure there is no wax or slippery film. Also, if sanded and gleamed with a railhead contour, it is even BETTER! Most rail stock is FLAT TOPPED!
I'm tired and must go to sleep. By the way, WHAT"S a BRITE-BOY?

[Anonymous]

I have polished the tracks on my layout, and can attest that the tracks need only an occasional dry wipe, or only with rubbing alcohol. I only wish I could poli***he locomotive wheels as effectively. I polished the tracks about a year ago, and have only spot wiped certain areas (one of which I call "oxidation alley"), but even there I only dry wipe, but certain locos will act eratically. The wheels get dirty very fast, the tracks not.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

I used the GLEAM process on May 17th, 9:30 pm. To date, I have not had to clean my track once. Even my loco wheels are staying spotless and we know how fast Athearn's pick up dirt. I went into this thinking that it wouldn't work but I had to clean the track that night anyway, so why not? I cleaned my track in the usual manner and couldn't get a streak on a white glove. It was clean. Or so I thought! I went through the process and I could not believe the amount of black crap that was coming off the track. I had to tear off a new piece of cork for every 18 inches of track! After 2 hours, I had the track so clean that I couldn't get any black at all. I haven't had to clean it since, except for one little area where I spilled some plaster dust and that just took a vacuum and a quick wipe with a dry rag. I'm one of the most skeptical people on the face of the earth. Look up skeptic in the dictionary, you'll probably find a picture of me. I was so skeptical about this process. No longer. I am a believer! I am commited to this process 100%. If somebody had come to my door wanting to this process on my layout 2 months ago, I would have had him measured for a straight jacket. Now that I've tried it for myself, I'm behind it 100%