Backdrops: A New and Simple Approach

[JimRCGMO]

Mondo, this looks like a good idea and way to deal with backdrop(s), in a simpler way! [:)] Thanks for posting this - I'll be printing this out for reference. I'll also see if our local Lowe's - don't have a HD in this area - has this item or something almost identical to it. If I find out, I'll post back here for those without an HD in their area.

Again, I'm glad you posted this![yeah][tup]

Blessings,

Jim in Cape Girardeau

[Anonymous]

As others have suggested, there are other magazines out there that would possibly use your work. I've had articles refused by one then used by another. First I'd delete your item in this thread!

Bob Boudreau

[Big_Boy_4005]

It is quite innovative, and has nothing to do with anything that has been published, ever. The support method is the key, and could be covered in a single page of text and a couple photos. This isn't about painting backdrops.

Unfortunately, I can't benefit from this idea, as I am building a double deck layout, and my backdrops must be fastened to the supporting structure.

[selector]

I can't say that yours is an innovative approach due to my relative inexperience, but it sounds like a very good method, and should work for most people.

Thanks for sharing it.

-Crandell

[maandg]

Very neat idea and innovative approach to supporting a center peninsula backdrop!! While I have no "free-standing" peninsula (mine is supported by a mini stud wall), it seems like a perfect idea for those that do. In particular, I can see how modular clubs could benefit from your method.

By the way, just because one publication says no, doesn't mean another won't say yes. Have you considered submitting your article to RMC, RMJ or MRG? Maybe they haven't covered the subject as extensively as MR. It seems ideal for those mags - maybe not quite so much for MM. As a published author in MR, I applaud your efforts and willingness to share your ideas with your fellow hobbyists. I can appreciate the amount of work and thought that goes into a manuscript.

Don't give up, but thanks for sharing here. Another great example of thinking outside of the box! Kudos!!

[tup] [tup]

[mondotrains]

Hi Guys,
I wrote the following article and submitted it to "Model Railroader Magazine" for potential publication. The editor thought that my idea was good but very similar to those in recent articles. I disagree. I've read ALL the articles on adding backdrops and my idea is very different because it uses a material that nobody has thought of before. The editor also thought that my idea wouldn't work for backdrops higher than 15". I have to tell you that he is wrong. It will work for much higher backdrops but I didn't want to waste my time trying to convince him. Anyway, so what if I don't get published in Model Railroader. I'd still like to share this idea with you and have posted 4 pictures below that go along with my article. I think that after reading below, you will agree that I've come up with a simple approach for adding backdrops to a layout.

A SIMPLE APPROACH TO BACKDROPS
For the twelve years that I've been in model railroading, I've seen many articles on how to build and install backdrops. Ideas have ranged from building 1 by 2 inch or 1 by 4 inch "walls" on which to affix Masonite, sheet rock or plywood sheets. These methods required two sheets of backdrop material, one for each side, if the backdrop is to run down the middle of a peninsula. Other methods included fastening batten strips to concrete walls, again providing a support on which to fasten the backdrop. Friends in the hobby have used several of these methods with fine results, but I wanted a "better way". I wanted a support that could be easily bent to allow for curving the backdrop along inside corners and other places where flexibility was required. I determined that 1/4" Masonite is very rigid and would probably stand straight and secure if just mounted along the bottom edge. Therefore, if I could find a way to secure it along the bottom edge, I could use just one sheet of Masonite, finished on both sides, down the middle of my peninsulas.

I went to my local home improvement store, looking for something, anything, that could secure my 1/4" Masonite backdrop and would be easy to install. You can imagine my delight when I came across 8-foot lengths of plastic "edging" in the Garden Department of the store, which was designed to be used to frame 4 by 8 foot sections of plastic gardening trellis. The slot in the edging, which forms a "track", provides for mounting along the edge of a trellis. The slot was exactly 1/4" wide and allowed a test piece of Masonite to be inserted (see photo 1). Even better, the edging was flexible enough to be bent into the curves I knew I wanted and better yet, it was only $6.00 for an 8-foot section. The product, which I bought at "Home Depot", is called "Tuff-Bilt Lattice: Winter White "U" Molding", with SKU number 9754520003.

As you can see in photo 2, I was able to create the anticipated curves, in fact, the plastic support probably could be bent to sharper curves than the Masonite. In other words, I had to determine the bend-ability of the Masonite and then bend the support to no more than the Masonite could withstand. As you can see in photo 3, the plastic "track" enabled me to easily intersect two backdrops, where one ran down the center of a peninsula and the other ran along an outside wall in my room. Also in photo 3, you can see how nicely the "track" worked to secure my backdrop along the slanted wall in my attic, where it would have been impossible to fasten a backdrop using batten strips mounted to the wall as is often suggested. I simply mounted my plastic "track" on the top surface of my bench work, several inches away from the slant; enough to ensure the top of the backdrop would fit properly.

Installation of the "track" was quick and easy. All I did was draw lines on the bench work where I wanted the backdrop to go, climbed up on top and laid the plastic track along those lines. I then drove 1 1/4" long #6 screws down through the slot in the "track" and into the bench work (my benchwork is Homasote over plywood). I drove the screws about every 6" or so along the inside of the "track", starting at one end and working around curves. While the "track" fit is tight and holds the Masonite fairly securely, I drove some screws diagonally about every two feet through the plastic "track" and through the edge of the Masonite to insure that the Masonite wouldn't "creep up" out of the slot over time. While I did use full 8 foot pieces of the "track", especially along the curved sections where it was necessary, I determined later that you can get by with pieces about a foot long and spaced about one foot apart for straight sections of backdrop. I used this method behind my staging area where I cut hand-holes out of the Masonite in order to allow for my reaching into staging. On my layout, staging is under a city which has a sky backdrop behind it. By spacing out small sections of the "track", it gave me more space into which I could reach (see photo 4). For this section of backdrop behind my staging area, I didn't fasten screws through the track and Masonite because I wanted to be able to slip the backdrop out, if and when I needed to. I've already had cause to slip the backdrop out and found that it easily slipped right back in (I should mention that to enable the Masonite to slip easily into the "track", I beveled the edge of the Masonite slightly with a file. Just a few strokes on each side got rid of the square edges). No other means of building a backdrop that I know of allows for easy removal and replacement. I think my approach will be great for those modular layouts you see at train shows.

For my 14 foot peninsula, I obviously needed to splice sections of Masonite. I used a material called "Self-Adhesive Wall Span", a drywall joint tape and wall repair fabric available in most hardware stores. Since it has a self-adhesive feature, it was easily placed over the adjoining edges of Masonite, starting on one side, wrapped over the top and down the other side. I then finished with a light coating of drywall joint compound followed with sanding and painting. One last tip here: I used a large paper clamp to hold the top edges of the two sections of Masonite aligned while the tape and joint compound were applied.

Please note that my bench work is 53" high. Therefore, my backdrop only needed to be about 15" high to prevent one from seeing over the top to the other side of the layout. As you can see in my photos, the 15" backdrop accommodated scenery and plenty of room to represent some "sky". I'm sure that the "track" support would allow for higher backdrops because of the rigidity of the Masonite. However, my recommendation is that you don't make the backdrop too high. Don't forget that if it's too high, you may create that "cubicle" environment that is found at many of your workplaces, and you wouldn't want to do that! I would suggest you try a few different heights with pieces of scrap cardboard to help you decide on a good height.

One drawback of the plastic "track" that I originally thought would be a problem is the fact that I wouldn't be able to easily butt building flats or photos of buildings up against the backdrop because the "track" juts out about 3/16" in front of the backdrop. To butt them flush would require using a Dremmel with a cutting disk to remove a section of the "track" down to the tabletop level. In fact, that "problem" has actually become a benefit because I glue my flats to the front of the "track" and the flats look better because they are slightly away from the backdrop. For much of my layout, I have hills covered with trees leading up to the backdrop, so the "track" is covered anyway.

I hope some of you folks in the hobby will benefit from the simplicity, modest cost, and flexibility of the method I've described. I know I'm sure happy with the results.

Please let me know what you think. I obviously spent a lot of time writing the article and would appreciate some input as to its worth.

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