The Weathering Thread-For Newbies and Seasoned Weathering Gurus Alike

[Anonymous]

The subject of weathering comes up often. I thought creating a thread dedicated to weathering would do at least do one of three things:

1)Alleviate numerous threads on the same topic.
2)Have an educational value.
3)Be an area to compile the best sites, threads, and forums on weathering and weathering inspiration.



I will divide it into categories, so finding something should be easy.


Intro
If you follow my work at all, you’ll know that I’m not the greatest. However, I do know a bit. Many weatherers have accomplished what I would love to-and hope to some day.


First Off, A Few Websites
http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com -A great source for photos and how-to’s.
http://www.mellowmike.com -Photos of Mellow-Mike’s work, and a few prototype photos as well.
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org -A great source for photos.
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net -Another great source for photos.


Forums
This forum is great, but it has few weathering topics. Here are three other forums I recommend you join, as we're always looking for new members.

http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com/forum/ -A bunch of HO Scalers hang around here, but we're always looking for more N Scalers.
http://www.therailwire.net -This is where the N Scalers mainly are, but several have migrated over to MTW.
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com -Pretty much an even mixture of both HO and N Scalers, as well as O, S, and G.


Suggested Tools
-Pastel Chalks
-Xacto Hobby Knife
-Various acrylic paint colors*
-An assortment of brushes
-Thinner or Distilled Water
-Rubbing Alcohol
-Pump-Style Hairspray(NO Aerosol)
-White Cosmetic Sponge Wedges
-A.I.M. or Bragdon Powders
-Artist Crayons
-A few tubes of Gouache**
-A few tubes of acrylic paint**
-Oil Paints**
-Dullcote
-Testors' Window Maker Cement
-Paper Towels
-Toothpicks
-Q-Tips
-Kids watercolor paints
-Colored pencils
-Extra empty paint jars
-Water
-A few Powerade/Gatorade bottle caps
-Masking tape
-Rubber Cement
-A couple of small storage containers
-A well-ventilated area to work in
-Adequate lighting

*-I suggest Polly Scale Rust, various browns, various blacks, white, tan and any color needed to do a wash.(I.E. an Orange & White wash on a CSX MOW car to fade it)
**-Burnt Sienna, Burnt Umber, Raw Sienna, Raw Umber, and other various colors.

This is just a list of suggested items. There's no need to purchase every item on the list. A condensed list for beginners is below.

-Paper Towels.
-Various acrylic paints*
-Water
-Alcohol
-Cosmetic Sponge Wedges
-Pastel Chalks or A.I.M./Bragdon Powders
-Various Brushes
-A couple of small storage containers
-A well-ventilated area to work in
-Adequate lighting

Articles of interest
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45957
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/aging_wood/ -Weathering wood by Harold/hminky


Techniques
From Aggro:

QUOTE: When I do stuff thats water based and I need a thinner I use what I call the 'magic mix'.
It consist of water, a little cheap liquid hairspray, and a drop of Ajax. I use it to thin watercolors, gouche, acrylics, things like that. It increase flowing abilities AND gives said medium more body. Works great to slighly thin acrylic paints to create graffiti.

Utilizing the cement and powders together can create interesting results. I use it for rust gashes and rusty spots. This is how I do it: On a separate surface, I sprinkle out a bit of rusts and browns. (Or, if using pastels, scrape several browns and oranges off on a seperate area) On another surface, squirt out a bit of the cement. Using a toothpick, apply the cement to the spot on which you want the rust. Then, using an old, beat-up brush, "grab" your chalk/powder and dab it into the cement. Let dry.

Notes: When utilizing this technique for rust gashes, I recommend using the point of an Xacto to create a gash...................The cement dries qucikly or slowly, depending on temperature and humidity. Using the cement quickly can prevent any drying prior to usage....................If you have a low-humidity, low-temperature workstation, I recommend using some form of warm heat to thin the cement, such as a small amount of time under a hair dryer, or holding the bottle in your hand for a few minutes.


Weathering Trucks: http://www.modeltrainsweathered.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5006&highlight=#5006


More to come!


Enjoy,
Matt

[modelmaker51]

This would be great if MR would make it a "sticky", but since they won't , this thread will be buried in a day or two unfortunately.

[railroadyoshi]

I've been meaning to pick up some of those powders...

For now i've just used a heavily saturated whiteboard eraser. I would think that this would also work with a chalkboard eraser. Applying it to the car produces a darkened, smoky sort of feel. However, it is very basic, and nothing like the results of the Bragdon powders.

[CP5415]

I saved the web address for this topic in my Fav's section of my browser.

I would suggest that if you wi***o keep instant contact with this topic that you do the same.

Gordon

[tatans]

Wow, that's a lot of equipment, hope you don't scare off potential weatherers(?) Moderation is the No.1 factor in weathering, even slight over doing it can ruin a piece, I seem to have achieved what I believe to be very adequate weathering with a tube of acrylic grey and small jar of rust acrylic paint, plus a very small good quality brush for detail. oh, and an HB pencil and small eraser. and have fun

[tjsmrinfo]

to avoid this bein buried you may want to join http://2guyzandsumtrains.com and post this there as well. more than likely it will be added to the "how-to" section and yu can direct link it there and then post the link here
or start a whole new forum on it alone.

at 2guyzandsumtrains the forums are broken down into sections that pertain to modelling and model building etc

just a thought


tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tatans

Wow, that's a lot of equipment, hope you don't scare off potential weatherers(?) Moderation is the No.1 factor in weathering, even slight over doing it can ruin a piece, I seem to have achieved what I believe to be very adequate weathering with a tube of acrylic grey and small jar of rust acrylic paint, plus a very small good quality brush for detail. oh, and an HB pencil and small eraser. and have fun

Yes, I agree about moderation.


About the list...That is a list with items I've tried and items that have been recommended to be by the greats themselves. I have built up a collection of these items over the months, and use them all for different purposes.


Matt

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by railroadyoshi

I've been meaning to pick up some of those powders...

For now i've just used a heavily saturated whiteboard eraser. I would think that this would also work with a chalkboard eraser. Applying it to the car produces a darkened, smoky sort of feel. However, it is very basic, and nothing like the results of the Bragdon powders.

Sounds interesting. Do you have any photos?

[hminky]

I have an article on making styrene look like aging wood at:

http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/aging_wood/



Click image to enlarge

Thank you if you visit
Harold

[Anonymous]

Harold-Link has been added to main topic. Thanks, as I had forgotted all about that.

Also, I bookmarked it in my "Favorites" section.


Matt

[railroadyoshi]

Here is a before and After

Before:



After:



Most of the ink in the eraser I used for this one was black, but I would think that other colors could produce other effects in similar ways, like rust.

As I said, this is a very basic approach, and probably only good as a base.

(Edit) Sorry, haven't gotten the chance to crop them.

[Anonymous]

Yoshi- Interesting. Have you sealed it in any way?

I might give it a try. I'm game to experiment.


Matt

[BMRR]

Great article Harold, thanks for sharing it.

Stan.

[loathar]

Love that Mellowmike page. I'm bookmarking this one!

[twhite]

One product I wouldn't overlook is the Bragdon Weathering System, a very fine powder that goes on with a toothbrush and contains a dry adhesive that makes the powder stick, no matter how many times you handle the equipment. I just bought a selection of their powders and have tried it on a few cars (I'm new at this, BTW) and frankly, I'm amazed at the results. I thought I was going to have to buy all sorts of materials to weather my freight cars, but I think I can do them all with this product. The Weathering System is made by: Bragdon Enterprises, 2960 Garden Tower Ln. in Georgetown, CA (right up the road from me) 95634. The website is: www.bragdonent.com This product is especially designed for modelers. I really like it.
Tom [tup][tup]

[AggroJones]

Matt pretty much has the tools/material list down. Everything I use is on there.

I utilize the Bragdon Powders in alcohol washes, mixed with oils, or simply sable brushed on and sealed. Great stuff. Any time its used straight out, I mist it with da dullcote. Cause moisture generated by fingers is enough to leave marks in the powder, and I want the models safe to handle. This changes the appearance also, which can be good for achieveing certain looks. They darken down and look less stark. Some of the BE powders vanish after being dullcote. The yellow, ash gray, and dark gray do this. Dark rust, light rust, med rust, dark brown, and earth brown tend to hold there color well though.

Recently, within the last few months, I've begun experimenting with artist oil paints. I had many of them in my possesion, but never used them in weathering until now. Perfect stuff for drybrushing. Their consistancy and long working time makes them a very useful item. Great in washes too. I found oil works better in a wa***han arcylics. I know some guys who use them for pretty making all effect. Rightfully so. Oil is magical, but it does need plenty of drying time between layers (the only drawback).

When I do stuff thats water based and I need a thinner I use what I call the 'magic mix'.
It consist of water, a little cheap liquid hairspray, and a drop of Ajax. I use it to thin watercolors, gouche, acrylics, things like that. It increase flowing abilities AND gives said medium more body. Works great to slighly thin acrylic paints to create graffiti.


I have a question. Whats with people using windshield washer fluid to thin acrylic paints? Isn't that defeating the purpose? That crap is toxic right? I thought the point of using acrylic was because they were safe. You want toxic, you might as well just use Floquil. [2c]

[james saunders]

aggro your work never ceases to amaze me!


OZJIM

[ProtoWeathering]

QUOTE: I have a question. Whats with people using windshield washer fluid to thin acrylic paints? Isn't that defeating the purpose? That crap is toxic right? I thought the point of using acrylic was because they were safe. You want toxic, you might as well just use Floquil.

Aggro - The WW fluid is distilled water, alcohol and a detergent. It's very effective as a thinner and air brush cleaner. No petroleum distillates like Floquil.

[Anonymous]

I like the AIM powders because there are more colors than Bragdon. They have adhesive like bragdon, but you DO have to seal the model if you want your hard work to last. I also use goache, hairspray, diluted acrylics, alchohal (bad spelling[:D]) and of course, the common denominator, water.

Dont forget about the effects you can get putting alchohal ([:D]) on dull cote. it turns white, and with a little practice it is a great technique. Plus, if you screw up, spray the dullcote again and its gone!

One of my favorite techniques is to mix burnt umber, raw umber and burnt sienna goache and dab a cosmetic sponge on it. Then dab the sponge on paper until its just leaving little speckles. Do this on the model and it looks like paint flaking and rusting.

[warhammerdriver]

Hey Bergie, is there some way you can "sticky" this thread so it' always on top? Or does this bboard software not provide that option?

[Anonymous]

we have tried many times, nothing gets "stickied" on the forum.
We need sticky threads on:
DCC
Track Planning
Wiring/Benchwork
Scenery
Weathering
and maybe more I cant think of.

[twhite]

Aggro--of course it's all YOUR fault that I'm starting to attempt to weather my rolling stock. One thing you said about the Bragdon and Dullcote--when I was talking to the rep at the train show we missed each other at, she recommended that you spray the car first, and then apply the powder, instead of vice versa. I tried this on a gondola and it seems to work pretty well--also tried it on one of my Yellowstones--spraying with Dullcote and then applying the weathering, and it worked out really well. I haven't noticed any deterioration from handling the loco yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it. I really like the stuff.
Tom [:D]

[AggroJones]

Pretty much anything I ever weathered began with a misting of dullcote. Then whatever. Then another dull misting. Then whatever. Layers. Its all about layers. You gotta know what layers to do when and how.

[twhite]

Aggro--thanks, I'm going to try the technique you suggest. I'm really a novice at this--I've done three cars so far, two of them are okay, the other is a MESS--used the wrong color, I think--don't like it at all, but I'm stuck with it, since the stuff doesn't want to wash off, and it's a car that I usually run in my coal train consist.
I should have started with some junkers, I'm beginning to realize--locos seem to be easy, cars are HARD!!
Tom[:I]

[mondotrains]

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

Aggro--of course it's all YOUR fault that I'm starting to attempt to weather my rolling stock. One thing you said about the Bragdon and Dullcote--when I was talking to the rep at the train show we missed each other at, she recommended that you spray the car first, and then apply the powder, instead of vice versa. I tried this on a gondola and it seems to work pretty well--also tried it on one of my Yellowstones--spraying with Dullcote and then applying the weathering, and it worked out really well. I haven't noticed any deterioration from handling the loco yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it. I really like the stuff.
Tom [:D]

Hi Tom,
Instead of Dullcote, try Krylon's Matte Finish. I bought a large 12 oz. can for $1.50 on sale at Wal-Mart. Somebody on this forum mentioned that Krylon creates a flatter fini***han Dullcote and I think they're right. Plus, Krylon is a lot, lot cheaper.
I never spray over the Bragdon Enterprises powders because you don't need to. If you rub them on over the matte finish, the dry adhesive in the powders causes them to stick just fine. If you keep spraying with the matte finish, not only do you ruin the look, but eventually the surface can take on a "waxy" appearance. With the Bragdon powders over the matte finish, the surface looks weathered as it should. And, when you handle an engine or piece of rolling stock, just hold it underneath when you're placing it on the track. Actually, I don't see the chalks being effected by handling anyway.

Hope this helps.
Mondo

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

Aggro--of course it's all YOUR fault that I'm starting to attempt to weather my rolling stock. One thing you said about the Bragdon and Dullcote--when I was talking to the rep at the train show we missed each other at, she recommended that you spray the car first, and then apply the powder, instead of vice versa. I tried this on a gondola and it seems to work pretty well--also tried it on one of my Yellowstones--spraying with Dullcote and then applying the weathering, and it worked out really well. I haven't noticed any deterioration from handling the loco yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it. I really like the stuff.
Tom [:D]

Hi Tom,
Instead of Dullcote, try Krylon's Matte Finish. I bought a large 12 oz. can for $1.50 on sale at Wal-Mart. Somebody on this forum mentioned that Krylon creates a flatter fini***han Dullcote and I think they're right. Plus, Krylon is a lot, lot cheaper.

Don't bother. It left a crappy finish and ruined one of my cars.


Matt

[mondotrains]

QUOTE: Originally posted by uspscsx

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

Aggro--of course it's all YOUR fault that I'm starting to attempt to weather my rolling stock. One thing you said about the Bragdon and Dullcote--when I was talking to the rep at the train show we missed each other at, she recommended that you spray the car first, and then apply the powder, instead of vice versa. I tried this on a gondola and it seems to work pretty well--also tried it on one of my Yellowstones--spraying with Dullcote and then applying the weathering, and it worked out really well. I haven't noticed any deterioration from handling the loco yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it. I really like the stuff.
Tom [:D]

Hi Tom,
Instead of Dullcote, try Krylon's Matte Finish. I bought a large 12 oz. can for $1.50 on sale at Wal-Mart. Somebody on this forum mentioned that Krylon creates a flatter fini***han Dullcote and I think they're right. Plus, Krylon is a lot, lot cheaper.

Don't bother. It left a crappy finish and ruined one of my cars.


Matt

Matt,
Now you've got me wondering. Are you saying that Krylon's matte finish left a crappy finish. What do you mean it "ruined one of your cars"? I've used it on several engines and probably 40 pieces of rolling stock and haven't seen a problem. I'd like more detail about what caused the problem. Did you use the Krylon over the weathering powders?
I will stop using the Krylon if it's really a problem but I would appreciate more info.

In reading your response "don't bother, it left a crappy finish", I don't know what you mean. Could you have sprayed too much on? Even with Dullcote, you've got to go lightly, otherwise it will begin to run.

Thanks,
Mondo

[james saunders]

here are a couple of pics of my latest weathering job my new atlas Dash 8-40B sorry about the pic quality i used my cheap camera.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

QUOTE: Originally posted by uspscsx

QUOTE: Originally posted by mondotrains

QUOTE: Originally posted by twhite

Aggro--of course it's all YOUR fault that I'm starting to attempt to weather my rolling stock. One thing you said about the Bragdon and Dullcote--when I was talking to the rep at the train show we missed each other at, she recommended that you spray the car first, and then apply the powder, instead of vice versa. I tried this on a gondola and it seems to work pretty well--also tried it on one of my Yellowstones--spraying with Dullcote and then applying the weathering, and it worked out really well. I haven't noticed any deterioration from handling the loco yet, but I'll keep an eye out for it. I really like the stuff.
Tom [:D]

Hi Tom,
Instead of Dullcote, try Krylon's Matte Finish. I bought a large 12 oz. can for $1.50 on sale at Wal-Mart. Somebody on this forum mentioned that Krylon creates a flatter fini***han Dullcote and I think they're right. Plus, Krylon is a lot, lot cheaper.

Don't bother. It left a crappy finish and ruined one of my cars.


Matt

Matt,
Now you've got me wondering. Are you saying that Krylon's matte finish left a crappy finish. What do you mean it "ruined one of your cars"? I've used it on several engines and probably 40 pieces of rolling stock and haven't seen a problem. I'd like more detail about what caused the problem. Did you use the Krylon over the weathering powders?
I will stop using the Krylon if it's really a problem but I would appreciate more info.

In reading your response "don't bother, it left a crappy finish", I don't know what you mean. Could you have sprayed too much on? Even with Dullcote, you've got to go lightly, otherwise it will begin to run.

Thanks,
Mondo

Hmm, interesting question. No, I didn't over-spray it, as I use the same amount of Dullcote and have never had a problem. Generally, I use Krylon products over anything else, and haven't had many problems. I sprayed a car after a layer of weathering, and let dry. It was the next day before I touched it. I went to add another layer of weathering, and a hole in the layer of Krylon appeared. I decided to weather over it, and added another layer of Krylon. The car was fine. On my next weathering project using Krylon, it did the same thing. I was using light coats. Fortunately, I had a can of Dullcote around, so it saved this car.


Here's the car with the "hole". It actually turned out alright, as it looked almost like a rust gash:



If you have had no problems with it, then continue using it. I could've had a bad can. Who knows. I just didn't want to risk killing or nearly killing another project.


Matt

[Anonymous]

James: Your photos are blurred, but from what I can tell, that's a pretty good job. [tup]


Matt