HELLLPPP! I know nothing and I need to get him a train....

[selector]

If things don't go as planned, Tess might consider logging on and showing her better half all the trouble she went to (not trouble really, but, you know...) to get him a terrific Christmas gift. That, alone, will make him a friend for life. [:D]

[Anonymous]

heres a link to soem reading stuff on ebay
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&fstype=1&catref=C6&from=R10&fcl=3&satitle=reading&sacat=19128%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&fsop=2%26fsoo%3D2&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search&fgtp=&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=66845&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=

[Anonymous]

heres some stuff he would like
http://cgi.ebay.com/CUSTOM-ATLAS-GP7-READING_W0QQitemZ6019046339QQcategoryZ19131QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Athearn-79692-HO-RTR-GP40-2-Reading-3673_W0QQitemZ6019130461QQcategoryZ19130QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Train-Master-READING-RR-866-Atlas-Silver-Series_W0QQitemZ6019784591QQcategoryZ19131QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Proto-2000-HO-GP7-Reading-628_W0QQitemZ6019164398QQcategoryZ19135QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Anonymous]

Well, gentlemen.....It's been about 24 hours now.....I went from knowing absolutely nothing to knowing something......let me give you an update.....I went to a wonderful privately owned shop called the Iron Horse in Reading. I strongly recommend visiting there sometime. It is very reminiscent of old time shops. I felt like I stepped back in time....much better then going to Hobbytown...which I've been in but left knowing absolutely nothing. Anyway, so I spent a good hour and a half there with one of the owners (I believe). I was able to use much of the lingo....and I got to see first hand what was meant by tracking codes.....and I learned about layouts and flexitrack (I believe that's what it was called....) Absolutely fascinating! I left there having learned about different font styles on the sides of cars.....I know what is acceptable for the transition period....which sorry Keith! Your sticking to transition because it truly is the best of both worlds! (I'm assuming he will read this the day after Christmas....) Anyway, I did leave with a little less in my in my check book.......however here is what I started with....
1. track - Bachman code 83 - yep definitely prefer that to 100....although he had to explain why it was more realistic at first....I didn't quite get it at first but well....I remembered the 100 code from when I was little....grandpa had it.....I did check to see if I could purchase adaptors for tracks...because I believe I have some tracks down in the cellar of my parents house that they aren't using.....but for 80 cents a piece of track I'm far from concerned.

2. I did purchase the Tech 4 MRC 220. He didn't have the 200 in stock however I didn't worry about it since it would have only been 10 dollars cheaper. I did opt for putting off the DCC controller for now. I'm under the impression that the MRC 220 I can use in the future for lighting buildings, lamp posts, etc....so no loss for purchasing it. I'll by a DCC controller in the future when we have multiple trains and layout set up. For now there really is no need.

3. I bought two box cars. Athearn series. 40' box car-superior door #18065 and #18018 item numbers 70331 and 70332 - definitely nice detail - not cheap looking but yet inexpensive! I couldn't let it go.

4. I don't remember what this one is called - the plug that goes into the track - that is invisible if you have it come up under a layout - I saw the old form that used to actually be part of track that really ruined the effect - but that's again what I remember Grandpop having - all I know is that it runs from the track to the power supply - what's that called?

So that's what I bought....I know I"m missing the important part - the locomotive but I have some good ideas now. I really would like to get Keith The Reading 4-8-4 T1 coming out.....however I was thinking that can be for a later occasion since it's not quite out.....oh by the way, it's going to be at Iron Horse for $359 when it gets there... anyone find any better deals out there yet?

However, here’s where I'm thinking about going and I need a couple reactions. They had an engine there Atlas Master Series Item #7727 Reading Phase 2 - Road #862. It had everything - or so it seemed....very nice detail and was what I thought to be reasonable for $209. I don't know where to go to find it reasonably online but what are your impressions. After taking up so much time from such a wonderful helpful gentleman in the store I really would rather purchase it there if I get the go ahead from all you pros. :-) What do you think of the quality?

More potentials - I only have two box cars thus far....I saw a 3 pack of side hoppers there - made by atlas - item #1107 - they looked nice but didn't have loads - I really much rather them be carrying something! No worries though the gentleman said that I can get loads for $8 a pair. ($4 a piece) how's that sound guys? again...how's the quality?

second to last question - Walthers 46" USRA Gondola - Reading #23035 - looks like very nice detail as well - 2 pack - 932-27461 - should I be buying a certain number of box cars, hoppers, gondolas, what will be too much for my 62" long track....I don't know what will look ridiculous at this point.

Last question - I want a caboose (This is for me more then Keith.....he can have the rest of the train - The caboose is mine.....) they had none in stock but does anyone know where I can order one.....he said one authentic to the transition period would be red with white lettering....not the yellow and green one he had.....and like I said....I'm going for authenticity here....

well, is that enough to throw at you??? That's where I currently am. For now I'll stop and see what everyone has to offer me now. Be honest - tell me what you think of my purchases, if I’ve been incorrect in saying things, etc....I want to learn as much as I can.

Thanks all!

[tstage]

Tess,

Just checked my e-mail to find out that Tim had responded. Here's what he had to say:

QUOTE:
Tom,

The Reading FT's are readily available. You can get them from Stewart for $185, or I can get you an AB set for $105. The upgrade to the powered b is $48.95 so a dual powered set is $153.95. I can put sound in the dummy B unit for $65 additional with a Soundtraxx LC100 for 1st Generation EMD, but it's DCC only that way. $15.95 for the decoder in the A unit.

I also have 2 Atlas Reading C424's (#5201 and #5207)new in the box, as well as one Atlas GP7 in Reading #619. I even have new Stewart first run F3's ABBA and F7's ABBA. The F's are $139.95 pair powered A & B or $89.95 for the A powered B dummy. Same deal with the sound. All of these are in stock now.

Tim Smith
Empire Northern Models
P.O. Box 8185
426 Ridge Rd
Webster, NY 14580
[phone]
www.empirenorthernmodels.com

Since you've gotten the box cars, how about going with the freight diesel, like the FT. If you are set on a passenger diesel, the F7 would work great. The price that Tim quoted is REALLY good. Since you are apparently going with DC with the purchase of the MRC 220, leave the DCC and sound off for now and have Tim install it at a later date. Haven't read everything you've written so I'll give you this before you turn in.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Tom,
I really do think the FT is a very sleek and beautiful design...it would fit for the transition period? you also said it would work freight or passenger? In fact if I remember correctly....at the temple station's miniature railroad they had something similar to it and Keith pointed it out to me....I'm not completely against diesel no....(i'll get a steam engine eventually......okay so that one is for me....) So, if I read this correct I would get the FT from him for 105 + I want to add the powered b.....and what would the sound be like in the b unit? what would the quality be like....the guy at iron horse said that most times sound installed doesn't sound that great because it hadn't been test via the manufacturer.....so to have sound and powered b plus I wouldn't mind having the decoder would be a bit over $235....I want the works....I know I might be over doing it but this guy deserves it. So what do you say?

[tstage]

Tess,

Good choice with the MRC 220. Both you and Keith will be happy with it. You are right. If you switch to DCC, you can always use it to run your accessories.

I personally like and prefer the Code 83 because it's prototypical. I wasn't clear with your description. Did you only purchase straight sections of track? No curves?

Athearn RTR are good quality. I always go for kits myself. (Down the road.) 40'ers are a nice size. The Walthers 46' gondolas are nice. They do have a tendency to bind slightly going around tighter curves than 22" radii. There's extra detailing that comes inside the box. You can leave it off, or add as skills become more proficient. Atlas makes some very nice RTR rolling stock. Broadway Limited Inc. (BLI) also makes a set of 6 hoppers that are beautifully detailed. You can get them as a set or one at a time. List for them is $25 a piece. Accurail is one of my favorites but it's in kit form. Very easy to put together though.

$350 for the Reading 4-8-4 T1is a decent price. List is $400. Atlas Master Series is a quality locomotive. I'll have to take a look at it. I still think that Tim's deal is worth considering. You won't be a price like that and Stewart mechanism are smooth.

I'll hunt around for the caboose and let yo know what I find.

Thanks for keeping us abreast. You're making some good and informed choices. Tess, you DEFINITELY have to post a pic sometime after Christmas. That's our only stipulaton for helping out. [:)]

Tom

[Anonymous]

P.s. I couldn't find the FT on Tim's website....do you know where it might be hiding?

[tstage]

Tess,

It appears that what Tim is saying is that if you want to go with the sound, it will only be heard using a DCC unit. Tim is making a special FT for me with the A-unit powered and the B-unit being a dummy, which will hold the sound decoder and speaker. There's plenty of room in a dummy B to hold both the sound decoder and the speaker with baffle. The speaker with the baffle will sound terrific in that configuration. Tim can put in a sound decoder and speaker in a powered B-unit but it's a bit tricker and the sound probably won't be quite as good. Unless you are pulling 100 car trains, the powered A/dummy B will suffice just fine. Again, you will only benefit from the sound if you go DCC. This is something that can be added later by sending it back to Tim.

Tim did mention that he would be putting in a Soundtraxx LC100 sound decoder. You could ask him if the Soundtraxx DSX sound decoder would work with that. That's what Tim is putting in mine and I believe it's a better sound decoder than the LC100. It will also cost a little more.

Tom

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
I really do think the FT is a very sleek and beautiful design...it would fit for the transition period?

It is the perfect diesel for transistion era, since it was the first one designed for mainline freight service. Nothing looks better next to a steamer.

QUOTE: ...I read this correct I would get the FT from him for 105 + I want to add the powered b.....and what would the sound be like in the b unit? what would the quality be like...

Two things here. I probably have more Stewart FTs than any other single type of locomotive. Unless this locomotive is being expected to pull more than 25 cars up a hill, I really wouldn't worry about powering the B unit. I have an AB powered set that pulls 55 cars up a 2.5% grade. Much more power than most model railroads will need. Powering it is way overkill and besides if you really want good sound leave it hollow. And speaking of the sound, it is funny you mentioned this since I just posted something about this in another discussion. With the space available in an empty B unit, the sound can be phenominal because one can fit a really big or custom designed speaker. See my last post in http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51120

Finally don't let someone charge you hundreds of dollars labor for the installation. It is almost a simple thing. The hardest part is getting the power off the wheels.

EDIT EDIT EDIT - In the original post I said pulled 65 cars. That was a finger check, I changed it to the correct 55. They got 65 cars up the hill but it wasn't pretty and used lots of sand.

[tstage]

Tess,

There's a New York Central FT right on the front page. (That's the one that Tim is special ordering/custom installing for me and a number of other people.) The Reading FT will look just like the Stewart pic that I posted for you.

Tim doesn't have pics for everything he sells. Sometimes you just have to inquire about it from him. Even if Tim doesn't have it in stock, he can usually get it fairly quickly most of the time.

Tess, so are you thinking of the FT for the freight locomotive and the 4-8-4 T1 for the passenger locomotive? That would be a nice way to go. Freight is just WAY COOL!! [tup]

Tom

P.S. Tess, tell you what. I'll contact Tim again, ask him about the DSX sound decoder and get back to you. If everything sounds good to you (no pun intended), I'll let you take care of the rest from here. Tim's contact info is located either on Tim's response I posted for you, or at the top of the Empire Northern web site at: http://www.empirenorthernmodels.com

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage
Tim did mention that he would be putting in a Soundtraxx LC100 sound decoder. You could ask him if the Soundtraxx DSX sound decoder would work with that. That's what Tim is putting in mine and I believe it's a better sound decoder than the LC100. It will also cost a little more.

Yes, the LC stands for Low Cost. On the other hand if one goes with a DSX it has only one horn sound so it must be chosen in advance. As I recall there are three options Waber, 3 chime Leslie, and 5 chime Nathan.

[tstage]

Daniel,

Your first link is just making this page a real pain to view...

Tom

[SMassey]

Sounds to me like you could both benefit from each other's hobbies. Alot of research and time goes into building a layout especall if you model a period in the past. How did Reading PN look back in the 1930's when passenger trains were king of the rails? Your picture postcards may be able to help him build a building or depot if he decides to build a layout in that time period. See how you could help each other? Sounds to me like you would want to go with a steam locomotive and some passenger cars. I just discovered today why I could not find the kit number that I remember seeing. Bachmann has re-released alot of their Spectrum line now with the DCC decoders already installed in their locos. These sets still come with a DC power pack but this allows you to upgrade to Backmann's DCC system or another system fairly cheap. I was not able to find out about a Reading set, but keep looking there should be some around still.

[tstage]

Okay, Tess:

I contacted Tim at Empire Northern. I asked him if it is possible to have the motor decoder and sound decoder and speaker installed but not hooked up. When you both finally decide to go the DCC route, it might be an easier jump that way - i.e. easier for Tim because he can install everything NOW while he's got the locomotive; easier for you because you won't have to send it back to Tim to install everything. (I'm hoping that a simple jumper adjustment might be all that's need for this.) I don't know if that's feasible so I'll wait to hear from Tim if he thinks it's a lame-brain idea or not. I also asked Tim about installing a Soundtraxx DSX sound decoder - which would be better sounding than the LC100, and should be feasible.

Tess, here's another idea for you. I know you initially decided to go wtih DD instead of DCC and just purchased the MRC 220 power pack. And I know that some are going to pooh-pooh this for it's limitations. You can get a taste of DCC by purchasing a Bachmann E-Z Command DCC system farily inexpensively. I picked mine up for $53 back in February and am presently using it on my layout. It is a limited DCC system but you can use it to run a couple of DCC locomotives and one DC locomotive simultaneously on the same track. My E-Z Command runs off of two wire attached to the track (just like a DC power pack) and it works great for what it does. It was a good way for me to get my DCC "feet wet" and not spend a lot of money. I have run up to 4 locomotives at the same time. I most recently purchased a BLI 2-8-2 Mikado with sound and can actually activate the bell, whistle, coupler, doppler effect, flange squeal and headlight. REALLY COOL! [tup] I recently saw a new Bachmann E-Z Command at my LHS was $50. If Keith gets a taste for it, it might be a reasonable starter system. It's also farily easy to set up and and straight forward to operate.

Okay, I've done enough blabbering for now...

Tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
[I went to a wonderful privately owned shop called the Iron Horse in Reading. I strongly recommend visiting there sometime. It is very reminiscent of old time shops. I felt like I stepped back in time....much better then going to Hobbytown...which I've been in but left knowing absolutely nothing. Anyway, so I spent a good hour and a half there with one of the owners (I believe).

Well Tess, I am glad you are making some progress. The hobby shop you found is exactly the type of place you want to do business with. The fact that he was willing to spend so much time with you and guide you in your decicions, proves that this is a hobby shop you want to keep doing business with again and again. Also if he is worth his salt, (Which I beleve he is) if you have any problems with the items you purchase, he will be more than willing to remedy the situation.

QUOTE:
I did purchase the Tech 4 MRC 220. He didn't have the 200 in stock however I didn't worry about it since it would have only been 10 dollars cheaper. I did opt for putting off the DCC controller for now. I'm under the impression that the MRC 220 I can use in the future for lighting buildings, lamp posts, etc....so no loss for purchasing it. I'll by a DCC controller in the future when we have multiple trains and layout set up. For now there really is no need.

Nope no loss indeed. Also depending on what DCC system you end up buying, you can power the DCC system from the terminals on the power pack that say "Fixed DC". Then again, if you pick a DCC system that has its own power supply, then again you can use the power pack for powering up a myriad of acceccory options.

QUOTE:
4. I don't remember what this one is called - the plug that goes into the track - that is invisible if you have it come up under a layout - I saw the old form that used to actually be part of track that really ruined the effect - but that's again what I remember Grandpop having - all I know is that it runs from the track to the power supply - what's that called?

The Technicle term is Track Feeder Wires. We call them Feeders for short.

[tstage]

Tess,

Found a great web site with lotsa of locomotive and car manufacturers listed:

http://www.readingrailroad.org/reference/ref_modelers.html

Tom

[Anonymous]

Answers to questions: I did get a ovalish kind of set up....width is 44" and length is 62"....4 straights and 16 curves of the bachman code 83. And feeder wires for them as someone explained to me is the proper terminology....bare with me..i know I'm repeating things but I"m practicing the terminology....it's fun!

Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff? I don't think this train is ever going to have a major load of cars or major hills....by the point that I would need a powered b I would probably have it in other forms of locos.

Tom, just let me know what you think of what I said above and then when I get the go ahead one way or another from you, Oh Wise One!!! Well, then I'll give Tim a call and make the arrrangements. Tom, you've been a blessing!

Okay, as always much thanks sent out to my new train friends.

[Anonymous]

BTW, one thing I don't understand....these numbers 2-8-0.....4-8-4.....anyone have a site explaining what all that means? I'm thinking it's something to deal with the wheels, engine mechanics or something.....well be in touch about that one too....but that is a last priority.....I need to get a loco settled fast! After that looking for a red reading lines caboose with white lettering. :-) After that I'm gonna study up on more of the details that really escape me!

[Adelie]

Hi Tess, and welcome.

You've been getting a lot of good advice out here from some great, knowledgeable people (other than MTHRules, ignore him).

2-8-0 and 4-8-4 are wheel arrangements of steam locomotives. The first number is the small set of wheels in the front of the locomotive. Some had none (such as a 0-6-0). These were generally used in freight yards. A good number of freight locomotives had 2 wheels in front to "steer" the locomotive into turns. Passenger locomotives ran at higher speeds and tended to have 4 wheels in front. The second number is the number of drivers. These are the larger wheels in the center of the locomotive that provided power. You'll probably see numbers from 4 to 10, although there were some 12s on the Union Pacific. There can also be two sets of these (4-8-8-4). Such locomotives had two distinct sets of drivers (a longer discussion). The last number is the "trailing truck" that was used to support the firebox. There could be 0, 2, 4 and even 6.

The various combinations also had names. Someone will probably pipe up with a website or two describing those. A 2-8-0 is a Consolidation. A 4-8-4 generally went by the name Northern, but some railroads had other names.

Go to www.steamlocomotive.com for some reading. It can be a bit overwhelming, but there is a ton of information out there. Go to the tab marked "wheel arrangements" and it will confuse, uh, inform you.

Good luck. I model N-scale, myself, but was into HO until about 5 years ago.

By the way, if you are looking to add anyone else to your Christmas list, uh, nevermind.

[Cthetrains]

quoted from Tess:
I'm under the impression that the MRC 220 I can use in the future for lighting buildings, lamp posts, etc....so no loss for purchasing it. I'll by a DCC controller in the future when we have multiple trains and layout set up. For now there really is no need.


guys..we've created a monster.....[:p][^]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

In theory no. I do not have the EZ Command System. I know they have a feeder set up that is "Plug & Play" where you plug one end into the EZ Command Module, and plug the other into a special "Terminal Track". But if iether of you have any basic wiring skills, It is a simple matter of cutting the Terminal Track end off, and splicing the EZ Command Feeder with your regular Track Feeder. Simple "Scotch Lock" splicers can accompli***his for you if so inclined.

QUOTE:
Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

A basic requirment of any DCC system for it to be called a DCC system is it must be able to run any DCC equipped locomotive. However, I did study up on the features of the EZ-Command system and find it a rather limited propsistion. With EZ Command you can only have 10 locomotives or Consists (The term for a group of more than one locomotive operating together) on the track. At any given time. Whle that is more than eneugh for a small bedroom sized layout. If you build a larger model railroad than that, I fear that you would replace the system rather than expand it.

A thought would be to consider a DCC system by Atlas, Lenz or Digitrax. The Atlas System is made by Lenz and at a later date if you wanted to add more capabilities to your system you can easily expand it with components made by Lenz. Lenz is a highly reccomended manufacturor, and were I not given a Digitrax System as a Christmas Present a couple years ago. I would have probably gone with that.

But as I said I use the Digitrax system. It to is of high quality. and very expandable. You can start with their "Zypher" starter set. While like the EZ Command it can run 10 Trains at once. The Zypher can litterally handle over 10,000 Separte locomotives and Consists on the track at once. This lets you use the system more flexibly where as you can size the system off how many trains your running at once, rather than how many locomotives you have as I get the impression EZ-Command does. The Zypher also has a feature where it can turn your MRC Power Pack you purchased into another DCC throttle so you can get going with two trains. Then later of your Layout Grows and gets bigger, Digitrax componets Plug together daizy chain fashion and you can expand the Zypher into a system that can run up to 127 separate Locomotives/Consists at once.

For these reasons, I reccomend something other than EZ Command. But, I must state that EZ Command given what I view are its limitations is a quality system. I just find stuck down at the proverbial "Basic Cable" end of the DCC spectrum. In terms of features.

QUOTE:
What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

For a DCC equipped locomotive to do as you describe, it needs to be outfitted with what is known as a "Dual Mode" Decoder. They can iether be Manual switch, like those made by Atlas, or Automatic such as those made by Digitrax and North Coast Engineering. You can also rest assured that any locomotive that you purchace with a DCC Decoder installed at the factory (With the exception of Bachmann Locos from what I understand) are installed with Dual Mode Decoders.

QUOTE:
Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff?

Nope You can still have an unpowered B. What I typically see in such an installation is that the Decoder gets placed in the powered A unit. Then Wires are run back to the B so that the sound chip, wheather it is intigrated into the Decoder, or a separate component can run the speakers in the B Unit. Installations in an Unpowered Unit Generally Deliver Higher quality sound as larger speaker enclosures can be made.

However with that said, it is my personal preferance to have all my locos powered. But the layout I am planning is set in the Rocky Mountains of Montana. With steep hills and stuff. and Hauling 25-30 car trains. (Which are quite large trains on a model railroad)

Glad I could be of further assistance.

James Mitich

[tstage]

Tess,

Good news! Got word from Tim this morning. Here's what he had to say about my question:

QUOTE:
Tom, the DSX would increase the cost by $25. I don't any DSX in stock right tow, but expect that I will by mid next week. I can install the DSX, and unplug the 5 pin JST, that will disconnect the decoder in the dummy B. I can slo include the D12IP in a separate package for plugging in later, these are custom fit and take no skill at all to use, well maybe to get the shell off.

Tess, I think that would be the way to go! [tup] An easy plug in and your into the DCC world - i.e. If we haven't convinced you already to go the DCC route. Even though Tim won't have the decoder in stock till next week, that ought to be plenty of time to install and mail it to you in time for Christmas.

Okay, questions and comments:

QUOTE:
I did get a ovalish kind of set up....width is 44" and length is 62"....4 straights and 16 curves of the bachman code 83. And feeder wires for them as someone explained to me is the proper terminology....bare with me..i know I'm repeating things but I"m practicing the terminology....it's fun!

Good, you got the 22" radius. Your trains will both run and look better doing it. [tup]

QUOTE:
Yes I definitely want DCC and sound for in the future....so I would love to have it all completely installed if at all possible.....I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

Nope. The SAME two track feeders will work with your DCC, as well as your DC. If you get the Bachmann, you may have to splice the wire coming from your E-Z Command station (i.e. the throttle) to your track feeder. That should be pretty straight forward to do.

QUOTE:
Yes I am intending on using the FT for freight and the 4-8-4 for passengers when it is available....I like the idea of preordering it.....I'm going to do that after Ii confirm everything else. Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?

Yep. You can "store" up to 9 locomoitve addresses with the Bachmann. Address 10 is designated strictly for running an analog or DC locomoitve. The Bachmann only has 1 amp of power so, even though you can store up to 9 DCC addresses at once, you can only run around up to 3 locomoitves simultaneously. With you're small single-track loop for now, you won't be running that many for a while.

Again, the Bachmann is only a starter system that is limited in what it can do but is an inexpensive way to get up and going on DCC quickly. It's ideal for a small layout. The more sophisticated DCC systems allow you to do more things like adjusting configuration variables (or CVs). Simply put, CVS allow you to "fine tune" your DCC locomotives to make them even more prototypical.

For the meantime, the Bachmann would work quite well for you, Tess. Or...you can just have Tim install everythying, leave the motor and sound decoders unplugged, and run the FT on DC - until you study up and decide on a DCC system at a future point. That will be $50 you can keep in your pocket.

With that said, if you want to quickly to go to DCC, there is a new starter system called the PowerCab by NCE (a very reputable manufacturer) that is due out anytime now that Tim will have available for sale. The PowerCab is an all-in-one like the Bachmann and list is $180. Tim's price, $140. It's got more ampage than the Bachmann - 1.7 amps vs. 1 amp. One nice thing about the PowerCab is that it is upgradable to their PowerPro DCC system. The Bachmann is not. If you want more oomph to your PowerCab, a 3-amp power booster can be added for $60. (Cheap compared to others on the market.)

Or, you may want to give the LHS you visited - who gave you an hour and a half of his time - some more of your business. Knowledgable staff like that deserves all the financial support we can give them. I do about 90% of my business through my LHS.

BTW, did you get any turnouts (or switches) for your oval? Turnouts are used to divert a train from one track to another. They can be used for sidings and make a nice place to store a locomoitve or cars and get it off the mainline so you can run other trains. That's something else you can decide after Christmas...[:)]

QUOTE:
What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that. I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

Like I mentioned about the Bachmann, most DCC systems will allow you to run a least one "non-decoder" or analog locomotive on your layout. An analog locomotive will make a "buzzing" noise run on a DCC system. This won't harm it any. The thing you have to watch out for is leaving a DC locomotive "idle" or stationary on a DCC layout for long periods of time. The motor may heat up and eventually get cooked. (....Oops....Sorry Tess, I just re-read your question.)

That entirely depends on the decoder. They do make motor decoders today that sense whether you are running DC or DCC on your layout called "Dual mode" decoders. The issue (in your case) has more to do with the sound decoder. The motor decoder that Tim is going to install is NOT a Dual mode decoder so you will need DCC to run it properly. That holds also for the sound decoder.

They make sound decoders that both run your locomotive and give you sound. However, your FT will have separate motor and sound decoders because it will both work and sound better that way. That's a question you can ask Tim when you order the FT.

QUOTE:
Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

According to Tim's e-mail, it's only going to be $25 more for the DSX decoder. I would definitely go that route.

QUOTE:


Texas had the point of it not necessary to have a powered B. Do i need the powered b in order to have the sound decoder and DCC installed in the train? Or can I just leave the powered b out and get the other stuff? I don't think this train is ever going to have a major load of cars or major hills....by the point that I would need a powered b I would probably have it in other forms of locos.

No. In your case, you really don't need a powered B-unit. As I said in an earlier post, the dummy unit can house the speaker, baffle, and sound decoder. This will make for a [tup] VERY nice [tup] resonant chamber for your speaker. You motor decoder will therefore be installed in the powered A-unit. Stewart mechanisms are so strong and smooth, even a single powered A-unit will pull quite a number of cars. Tess, if you ever get to the point of wanting more oomph, just leave your A-B combination as is and order another A-unit, giving you a A-B-A unit. You can probably just run the two A-units as a consist. A consist is a way of running two or more locomotives in tandum. All you need to do is program the two A-units to the same address and they will work as one BIG locomotive. Cool, huh?

Jumping down to your next post...

QUOTE:
BTW, one thing I don't understand....these numbers 2-8-0.....4-8-4.....anyone have a site explaining what all that means? I'm thinking it's something to deal with the wheels, engine mechanics or something.....well be in touch about that one too....but that is a last priority.....I need to get a loco settled fast! After that looking for a red reading lines caboose with white lettering. :-) After that I'm gonna study up on more of the details that really escape me!

Mark did a great job of explaining wheel arrangements so I leave that one alone. The red Reading caboose is turning out to be a tough one. I e-mailed the Reading guru (Randy) again last night to get his input.

I do have an idea for a wood one but it's from a kit by Americal Model Builders (AMB). REALLY cool kits!!! [tup] ABM makes laser-cut buildings and structures out of wood. The detailing is fantastic! (Tess, if you click on the link at the bottom of my post, you can see an Interlocking tower, boxcar depot and Dill's Market on my layout that are made from the AMB kits.)

There is backing on most of the kit pieces so assembly is quite easy and pretty much glue free. (There's an occasional piece or two that needs wood glue to hold that parts together.) The AMB caboose kit is for a Norfolk and Western (N & W) cupola caboose. (The cupola is the raised roof section used for observation.)

I asked Randy if this particular one would be close to the Reading caboose. If so, all you would have to do is assemble it (directions are very straight forward), paint the body Caboose Red and the roof Roof Brown, add the Reading decals, and...Presto!...Chango!...you got yourself an authentic red Reading caboose. There's also the issue of adding the two trucks or wheel sets and adding couplers. But - Hey! - there would be a fun date night (or two) for the both of you to work on the layout together. Here's a picture of the AMB caboose:



Sweet looking, isn't she. I'll find out from Randy if it will work for the Reading caboose or not.

Now, back up to your last comment...

QUOTE:
Tom, just let me know what you think of what I said above and then when I get the go ahead one way or another from you, Oh Wise One!!! Well, then I'll give Tim a call and make the arrrangements. Tom, you've been a blessing!

Tess, we are glad to be of help. I think I speak for all of us here that it's nice to see and hear what you are trying to do to make this a very special Christmas for Keith. That's why you've gotten such an overwhelming response in such a short amount of time. And I DON'T think that has to do entirely with the fact that you are of the female persuasion.

For the most part, folks around here are very helpful to newbies. (Tess, the rate you've been learning things, given another couple days, you'll be teaching us new things [:)]) Wise? Eh, questionable. If wise, it's only from my own short MRRing experience (a year and a half) and the fine folks here on the MR forum! I still have A LOT to learn about both RRing and MRRing.

Okay, I think I've said WAAAAAY too much. Tess, I think you are ready to go. Fire away anymore questions that come up between now and Christmas...and even afterward. [:)]

Tom

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess
I might even buy the bachman E-Z command right away if it is really that inexpensive. Would I need different accessories for the E-Z command? ex: different track feeders?

No for the size of track being considered it should just connect right in just like the MRC 220.

QUOTE: Will the Bachman E-Z command work for both locos?...

Each loco will have to be outfitted with an electronic circuit we call a DCC decoder.

QUOTE: What exactly are the adjustments necessary to have a loco work on non-dcc when it is set up for DCC.....is there an easy way of doing that

A few companies make a "dual mode" decoder that can be switched back and forth between DC and DCC. And there are other wiring schemes that can change modes by flipping a switch. I wouldn't say it is hard but not easy either. This is usually considered a one way conversion (from DC to DCC). After a person uses DCC they usually don't want to go back.

QUOTE: I was under the impression that any DCC loco would work on a regular controller just minus the special effects....I guess I'm wrong with that. I was hoping to get a fully loaded train then add the DCC controller on our anniversary a couple weeks later...

The only way I know that this could be done easily would be to get a locomotive with a Quantum sound system rather than the Sountraxx. Quantum Sound works with both DC and DCC. Quantum comes pre-installed on Broadway Limited, Atlas, and ummm Life Like Proto 2000 sound locomotives. In the past I have purchased Broadway locomotives and ripped the sound uint out to install in another unit. But there you have serious $$$ for both the inital unit and the conversion.

QUOTE: Also someone mentioned the DSX sound decoder. multiple effects rather then the LC 100....I would rather the upgrade....if i'm getting something I"m gonna go all out the first time rather then have to upgrade a month down the road.

You know.... Without comparing them side by side I am not certain most people would notice the difference. On the other hand with the reduced prices there isn't that much difference $40 vs $66.

[onetrack64]

I hope you weren't at Iron Horse Hobbies. The last time I was there, they had a fair amount of Reading stuff. There is also a shop in downtown Lebanon (Draude's Derailment), and one in Lansdale, (Penn Valley Hobby), although I've not been able to get there yet. They are relatively close to you.

I just remembered the place here in Lititz, Winkies. They just might have an 8 car set in Reading paint from IHC. I picked up a set for about $80.00 last year.

[tstage]

Tess,

Got word back from Randy. In short, he said that the AMB N&W cupola caboose won't work. The Proto 2000 (LifeLike but now Walthers) cabooses would work - but you'd have to repaint and letter them.

Here's Randy's entire response to my quesion for your edification and for future ideas. Again, it's sort a jargon-based but you should get the general picture:

QUOTE:
The windows are all wrong in the N&W. In HO, Proto2000 made Reading cabooses. The first run from a long time ago (when they cheapskates only made a single number) was the red with brown roof. You can find them on eBay sometimes, that's where I got mine. They roll like the brakes are set - and they are! It's not the pickups for the interior lighting, but indeed the brake shoe detail that drags - I just removed mine, the snap
off (and could be put back on - it doesn't break anything).

If you are up for a bit of a challenge, I think it's Eastern Car Works that sells a caboose kit that actually includes details to make any Northeastern caboose, including Reading. It's a flat kit - so getting the carbody square is the real challenge.

Also, the new release Proto2000 cabooses are still good Reading cabooses, they just come painted in the green andyellow. It's the older style caboose though, so repainting one of those to red would be a good start. And I did a little work to a Roundhouse
kit and it came out OK. It's close, just needs more details to match up to the Proto2000, plus the stock ladder design on the Roundhouse is wrong. I just filled the holes in the top of the walkways and cut the ladders to fit properly. Crude but it resembles a Reading caboose. And the ultimate - years ago, Life-Like had a cabose in their toy line that actually is a Reading-style Northeastern caboose! But like most train stes, it came in just about every road name BUT Reading. All it really needs is a paint job, decals, and a few underbody details and it comes out a closer model than the Roundhouse one. My father-in-law has two of them, one in red and one in green and yellow. Install Kadees and swap in some Reboxx wheels (I forget the length required, but the Reboxx website is wrong on this particular model - and Proto2000 wheels don't fit the
Life-Like toy trucks.) and you have a decent model.

About the only thing missing is the proper truck - a lot of Reading cabooses had Taylor trucks which are quite distinctive with a round bolster. I THINK maybe Eastern Car works or Bethlehem Car Works offers these types of trucks, but they aren't cheap - $20 or so for a pair, applied to a $1.99 Life-Like train set car seems kind odd. But not ALL
Reading cabooses had Taylor trucks, so unless you are a crazed rivet counter (which I am not) you can get away with regular Bettendorf-type caboose trucks.

--Randy

You have to admit, Randy knows his stuff! Randy is also our resident DCC guru, as well.

Tess, if you have any questions about any of the above, I'll do my best to answer what I can.

Tom

[Anonymous]

i still stand by the fact that this going to be Keith's hobby.........as long as I can approve things first ;-) hehe.......okay.......you guys have created a monster.

Thanks Mark for the explanation.....definitely going to research that latter on when I have more then five minutes between students coming in and out of the classroom....

[Adelie]

QUOTE: Originally posted by piccolotess

definitely going to research that latter on when I have more then five minutes between students coming in and out of the classroom....

Well, now if you have students, Tess, why not have them do the research? [}:)][(-D][(-D]

Now that I think about it, not only does that make your life a little easier, it could recruit another model railroader or two from their ranks. [:o)]

[Cthetrains]

I must agree with Tom..given the situation, well, not only is Keith being given EVERY modeler's dream, but it's being given by someone who cares enough to give the best, AND seems as interested in the hobby as most seasoned "professionals"..
SOMEONE IS A LUCKY, LUCKY MAN...our envy is with him

[Anonymous]

James,
Thanks for your contributions. Keith is an electronics engineer.....I swear that anything mechanical or electronic he can handle....so i'm going to print off everything you said so he has it. At this point I'm okay with basic cable....since we don't have the ability to take advantage of all that better systems of DCC can offer us....who knows how long it will be till we have enough engines, track, etc till we can get full use of a really good dcc system. I think I'll go with the EZ for now. Afterall, who knows what kinds of bigger and better things might develop til a better system is needed. When we start to create permanent layouts in our basement (which we don't have yet) then we'll upgrade to the best systems. Thanks for your advice and I'm definitely going to look at the Digitrax/Zypher set in the future.

Tess