Do cheap couplers annoy you?

[hdtvnut]

cbq9911a, that was true with almost all of my Walthers Superliner II and Budd
cars. Both the original and #5's sit too high, and the only ways I could see
to deal with it were either to file down the bolster or use overset couplers.
Why can't companies exert enough quality control to get such a basic thing
right?

In general, my main gripe is that the plastic finger springs simply will not
hold up, and I think the use of those type couplers should be boycotted.

Hal

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fergmiester

Being Scottish doesn't mean you're CHEAP! It mean you expect your dollars worth!!

Fergie

We of Scottish heritage are so often misunderstood! I'm an Howard and a Robinson (on me grandmother's side).

I also usually leave the coupler as is if it comes ona RTR model. When it stops working, the box of Kaydees comes out. On kits, since I have to install the coupler anyway...... I put in the one that is going to work for a long time in the first place! [:D]

[htgguy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by fiatfan

Sorry, folks. I can't go along with the crowd on this one. I have been using McHenry coulers since I got back into the hobby about three years ago. I have been using the newer style with the coil spring. I did come across one set with the wiper spring and can see where there could be some compplaints with those.

I actually broke one McHenry when the enigne fell off the table. Other than that, I have had no failures. When the couplers are adjusted using the Kadee height gauge, everything works as advertised.

Just my 2 cents.

Tom

Agreed, I run what they come with for the most part. I have not had any broken couplers. I have a switching layout and run short trains (<15 cars) for the most part.

I do not like the copper return spring on the kadees, it makes installation tougher and on some cars sticks out of the pocket. Kadee must see it as an issue if they are coming out with a whisker coupler.

Tom, I also agree that none of them work properly if not adjusted properly and most work well if adjusted and lubed correctly. My experience.

[trainfreek92]

what about atlas couplers they seem to be preety good??? Tim

[CANADIANPACIFIC2816]

Other than cheap, plastic couplers such as the McHenry, my biggest gripe is the way some freight car manufacturers mount them on their cars. Athearn for example..........
when you try to remove the coupler from an Athearn ready-to-run or Genesis car you often bend the coupler cover box cover out of shape and then must replace it. And with many of Athearn's kits these days the coupler box covers are so flimsy that you can not get a tight fit with them.

CANADIANPACIFIC2816

[dragonriversteel]

Mchenry is Irish ......not Scottish,although it could be another surname for another sect or clan of scottish decent. I'll have to look that up further. I'm Scottish from Renfenshirer Scotland ,family moved to US in late 1700's...then the irish side came in to play.

As for the cheap couplers, I too made that same mistake buying those cheap crappy couplers. Only to go back and buy Kadee's,lesson learned.

Patrick

[Anonymous]

Canadian, try bending the metal athearn coupler box cover inwards just a hair. A little pinch and they snap onto the often incomplete wedges a little better.

[nickinwestwales]

Hey-at least you guys have a choice of reasonably realistic scale sized couplers to choose from,us Brits are lumbered with variations of what is known as the `tension-lock` coupler,the closest we have managed to get to a `national standard`.
O.K,it`s efficient,but each vehicle is held about 6 scale feet from the next and the only alternative is to take a hacksaw to every vehicle & replace with 3-link hook & chain which requires very keen eyesight and an extremely steady hand with a purpose built tool to operate--moral-be gratefull for what you have,happy modelling,nick

[Don Gibson]

hdtvnut

SUBJECT:Do cheap couplers annoy you? Agreed.

OEM supplier's don't make their own coupler's - they BUY them.

2. Since they're supplied for FREE, they buy what's cheap. Some still supply horn-hook's. would you rather have these?

3.Since they buy what's CHEAP to save money.

WHY exactly are you complaining?

It wasn't too long ago that if one bought a FORD SUV, you would have to replace the FIRESTONE tires to prevent blowout's.

4 KD's cost $3.

[Anonymous]

I thought about 2 years ago someone was coming out with a coupler (maybe McHenry) to compete with the KD. What actually happened with that? Was that coupler that was going to be made of metal turn out to be junk or did it never get to market?

[Anonymous]

I also see some comments about the scottish people, I thought the dutch got their dollars worth?

[Anonymous]

My policy on couplers is that cheaper bachmann plastic couplers are allowed to be used on my rolling stock if the rolling stock is maintenance/research cars. Because of the cost of converting everything to Kadee, I still use Bachmann couplers and will continue to use them for the near future but will eventually convert all of my cars/locomotives to mostly Kadee and McHenry couplers. Right now, a majority of my cars/locomotives have Kadee Couplers on them.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Davidvd59

I thought about 2 years ago someone was coming out with a coupler (maybe McHenry) to compete with the KD. What actually happened with that? Was that coupler that was going to be made of metal turn out to be junk or did it never get to market?

Davidvd59

McHenry and Intermountain both came out with KD sub's, that looked promising. They both had molded-on whisker spring's that failed, and were made out of plastic that drooped, or broke. Since some of KD's patent's expired, many manufacturer's have been inspired to make /have 'knock-off's to mate with KD. You can read about their 'success' stories herein.

Specifically, McH changed to a coil spring, IM now supply's KD's on their product's, and to date PROTO 2000's can't be backed up without losing cars.

[Anonymous]

Im complaining NOT about CHEAP OEM. I am more than willing to squeeze out the extra 75 cents on a already over 30-40 dollar product if it comes equipped with Kaydees already adjusted and ready to go out of box.

It is the manufactors casterating the product with bad cheap couplers that must be replaced AGAIN once one arrives at home is the problem here.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Counter Weight

Im complaining NOT about CHEAP OEM. I am more than willing to squeeze out the extra 75 cents on a already over 30-40 dollar product if it comes equipped with Kaydees already adjusted and ready to go out of box.

couter weight
THEN (theoretically) $.75 for after-market shouldn't be a problem.

Installation? -or, the PRINCIPLE!

A $ .75 OEM price generally translate's to $2.25 retail due to increased Cost of doing business.

Cheers.

[Anonymous]

I can't stand Kadee Couplers. I like the Kato's the best.

[emdgp92]

I have a variety of knuckle couplers on my rolling stock--Accumate, Kadee, McHenry, etc. Most of my stuff was converted to Kadees years ago. There aren't many cars with the other types left now--whenever one of those 'lesser' couplers has problems, I replace it with a Kadee.

[ElectricMotive]

I just converted the couplers on a three Walthers Horizon/Comet p/p commuter cars last night. The coupler height on at least one of the cars is off, so on my initial run with the old couplers, I lost a car around the third curve. I changed out a few of the couplers to Kadees right then, and everything was fine in pull mode from there. Then I tried push mode, and had some problems I believe were related to the horn-hook couplers between two of the cars. I swapped out the remaining couplers for Kadees, though I didn't get a chance to run around with the all-Kadee train.
I also had a problem with an original coupler on a Walthers Amfleet car; swapping in a Kadee solved the problem.

In short, while I haven't been into model railroading that long (briefly around age 5, and more recently since June), I've quickly learned that Kadee couplers solve a lot of hassles. So, yes, cheap couplers annoy me. (After all, who wants to keep backing a train up to pick up cars that came uncoupled around a curve?)

[Anonymous]

I dont mind paying the extra 2.25 if everything came together. The business model can and should work towards quality product.

Electric Motive

I had almost given up on trains as a kid because the horn and hooks were so poor with attempts at actual operations. As luck would have it, my father introduced me to Kaydee which meant that the old Tycos and similar cars had to go and move up to the Blue Box Athearn with was pretty good for the time.

Intermountain cars do NOT give me any trouble what so ever, the bulk of my fleet is Athearn Blue box reinforced by a few choice RTR's I keep a pile of Kaydees, parts and tools on hand so I can make running repairs as needed. I have yet to have a train seperate on the main.

[lesterperry]

I replace all non KD couplers with kd. I keep the scottish ones to put on anything I wi***o sell at a later time. I know this is not very nice but KDs aren't free