TYCO HO train set.

[Anonymous]

Trains have come along way in 33 years, I have a pre 1971 TYCO "The Shifter Freight" HO scale set still in the box.I have many questions regarding it in regards to the new stuff out today.
1.Can I use the newer HO tracks with this set?
2.Is TYCO in business any more?
3.Can I use any of the new box cars or other cars.
4.What would the value of this set be today?
It still runs with the old transformer and reostat set up. I would just like to set it up with extra track for a bigger layout. Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Anonymous]

1, Sure, nothing has changed as far as tracks go, just watch out for the low-profile rails (code 83) as the flanges on your old stuff MIGHT be too deep.
2, Mantua makes a lot of the old TYCO stuff. Ironic as it might be, Mantua was the original manufacturer of most of this stuff, then TYCO had the product line, and now it's back to Mantua. In my own opinion though, I think the newer Mantua stuff is WAY overpriced for what you are getting. The same basic plastic "toy" model that sold for about $20.00 back in the 1970's, now carries a price tag of close to $200.00.
3, Any HO scale equipment will be compatible as long as you use the same type of couplers.
4, If this set is still in the original boxes, I would assume that it has a very good collector value. I can't give you an estimate, but if you want to sell it, try listing it on E-bay, with a reserve, of course, and see how many bites you get.
Aside from all that, personally, I would hang on to it. You are not going to sell it for a fortune, and if nothing else, it would make a great under the christmas tree ornament. As a kid I had a couple old TYCO sets myself. I sure wish I still had them today. Not for the investment, just for the sentimental value.
Todd C.

[Anonymous]

A long way in 33 years but they have exploded in the last six years since I got into the hobby.

Mantua sold out about 18-24 months ago. Go to www.modelpower.com the successor to the Mantua name.

Don't be fooled. There're a lot of similar, look alikes out there but with a spread in price.
That's the difference between crap & quality.
We have lemons too, so in a nut shell, it's whats under the shell that counts.

Happy railroading.

[dknelson]

One oddity about Tyco/Mantua is that they used freight car trucks with an axle unlike the usual, meaning Kadee wheel sets do not just drop in. So bewware on the deep-flange front.

For years the standard assumption was that old HO had no collector's value (except for Lionel) so people would chop and hack away at it, toss the boxes, etc etc. Now it seems there is a value to older HO and if you have original box -- you might want to consider leaving it be, including the horn hook couplers.
If that train set has a diesel locomotive I think Mantua itself improved them after 1970 so it is better to preserve collector value and not try to modify it for modern use. But if you have a metal body steam locomotive, some of them can pull like tigers even though the detail is blunt by today's standards they can make an interesting addition to a layout.
The short answer is that there is no one answer!
Dave Nelson

[Anonymous]

Thanks Todd C.
I have held unto that set and only opened it once,Christmas morning 1971 when my wife got it for me. We then moved and it hasen't been used at all. Now with Grandchildren I would like to set it up. Nothing elaberat, just something to peek there interest. I have thumbed threw the Model Railroader mag. and talk about sticker shock. Being on a fixed income it will be interesting to say the least on how far I get with this one. As for the couplers, are all the new ones set up with the magnetic couplers? Are there still new cars out there that have latch hook set up? Again Thanks Todd, John C.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Dave.
With some of the responses I have already recieved I will keep this small set for my Grandchildren. I would like to set it up though with a bigger length of track. It is the old steel body engine, with working head light. Do you have any suggestions on how big I could go with this track. I would like to set it up to run on an over head rail 4" to 6" wide base all around a small, say 10'x12'bedroom. What type of (new)track would you suggest? Again Thanks. John C.

[Anonymous]

Todd; Tyco never "had" the product line....Tyco was the marketing division of Mantua Metal Products that sold ready-to-run stuff when the kits were still labelled Mantua.
John Tyler was the president of Mantua at the time, and the Tyco name was his little application of hubris.When Mantua went out of kits altogether in the late 60's, they only used the Tyco name.
Tyco pretty much failed, I think in the late 70's, early 80's.Their quality had become no better than really bad Model Power, LifeLike, or Mehano stuff, but their costs were too high.

The recent [past 15 years]resurrection of Mantua, under different owners, culminated in their going out of business for good.
A shame really, the old Mantua was one of the most respected names in the history of HO.
Regards/ Mike

[mnwestern]

John:
Good plan. I'd use nickel silver rail. You might want to try Bachmann's E-Z track system where the rail and ties are mounted right on a plastic roadbed. Easy to work with, especially for kids. Otherwise, Atlas Code 100 nickel silver works well, especially if you plan to put up the track and take it back down on a regular basis. Code 83 is nice, but like others have said you might have wheel flange clearance problems because the rail is a lower profile. That means the wheel flanges of Tyco cars might hit the ties, though I haven't found that a problem with a few cars I still run. Also Code 83 is not as sturdy as Code 100. Its plastic tabs holding the rail in break easier.
As for couplers, you can leave the horn-hook ones on for basic around the layout running. Most cars today come with Kadee style knuckle couplers, but a few cheaper brands like Model Power and LifeLife's base line have the horn-hooks. Any car with a draft gear box mounted on the end of the frame or on the bottom of the car will accept horn-hooks like those from Athearn, etc., if they have a larger center mounting hole.
I still have my first Tyco set (in its box). It was a blue and yellow Santa Fe F-unit with a 50-foot box car, a 40-foot flat car with culvert loads, a 40-foot three-bay hopper and a red SF caboose. Still runs, not great, though, as it has lost one of the rubber traction tires on the powered truck. I also have one of those metal-boiled 4-6-2 Union Pacific steam engines. Runs, but needs some work.
Just before Mantua went under about 18 months ago, I purchased its 75th anniversary commemorative set with a new 4-6-2 steam engine (still metal!) and about four cars. It runs very well.
While I've 'graduated' to better products by Atlas, Kato, Life Like Proto 2000 and Athearn, I still cherish my first HO train. Older Tycos don't bring much at model railroad flea markets, boxes or not, but I don't care. I don't plan to sell mine. It is what got me hooked on the hobby.
T

[csxns]

I have a special edition Tyco boxcar i believe with 1976 on it.

[BR60103]

John:
There are two ways to think about going. Either the Bachman E-Z track with roadbed, or sectional track without. The track with roadbed is a bit more expensive. If you use the other track, you can get flexible track in 3 foot sections that comes at a bit lower price.
I think you should try for the largest radius curves you can find. And definitely nickel silver rail. Leave the brass rack from the set in the set.
You shouldn't have any problem running around a 10x12 room, but you may need extra feeders (terminal rails), say one set on each wall.
--David

[Anonymous]

The only TYCO engine I still have is the 1776 steam engine, I just cannot get rid of it. After years of being boxed up, I tried to run my other engines but they were dead. I was able to get one other engine working and gave it to a friend of a family that could not afford a train set, but had a son that really enjoyed watching mine. So I gave them my original transformer, some track, cars and the engine. From what I hear he really enjoys it. Seeing the kids enjoy this hobby as much as I do really makes it fun.

[Anonymous]

Hey, I had one of those 1776 steamers too! I bought it at a swap meet about '78 or so. I don't know how collectable those were, but I soon painted it black for a more protypical look. Alas, it was never a good runner, so I scrapped it after a while. Boy, 14 year-olds can be really dumb, huh? At least I hung on to a few of my old 70's era trains. I still have a "JOUEFF" Amtrak turboliner that I have been trying to re-power. I have installed an Athearn switcher driveline in the power car. If I can find some suitable decals I can proceed to the next phase of the project.
I even kept 2 '70,s era AHM 0-8-0's that I bought brand new for $20.00!!!! from "Hobbies for Men" circa 1977. I can't believe they sell these things for $150.00 + these days. I remember back then you could get a "Big Boy" for around $80.00.
Oh, the good old days!
Todd C.

[dknelson]

Todd I am sure all of us can think back to stuff we trashed as kids and can only shake our heads in shame and anger.
The Tyco 1776 4-6-0 is a version of their Sierra #3, which is considerably oversize for 1:87. I recall they made it closer to British OO 1:76.
When the engine was new there was a show on TV called Petticoat Junction that had a general railroad theme (with of course some rather buxom young women as stars -- Hobbies for Men indeed!!)) and the Tyco engine was meant to capitalize on the popularity of the TV show. When it was new it was considered a rather good running engine and maybe they cheapened the motor and gear for the 1776 version
Dave

[Anonymous]

Thanks David:
Will see what I can do. Forgive me for being dense, but what is a feeder (terminal rail)?
John C.

[Anonymous]

All I can say is Amen to that. John C.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Todd:
I know what you mean in price wise. Have no Idea what your talking about AHM 0-8-0 or JOUEFF.
Forgive me if I appear a little dense, but, well what can I say. About the good old days, just think, our kids will look back when they get our age and say this is the good old days. God forbide. In some respects I believe were better off now then when we lived in the good old days.
John C.

[RedLeader]

Hello,

I still have some TYCO/MANTUA equipment which I only save for sentimental value. My models date from the early 80's and some rally "bad" models from the late 80's early 90's. I still run some rolling stock which I have upgraded leaving the original trucks but changing the horn-hooks with kadee's No. 5 adpated with No.212 talgo adapters. They run preaty well and were good subjects for weathering experiments. As for the the locos, though they run ok, they are not very accurate models and some of them came without hand rails, plastic windows or even lights! You may only use these "toys" in code 100 tracks since flanges are too deep for code 83 and they may cause some problems on crossings and turnouts.

As for a resale/collector price, I wouldn't have many expectations. TYCO produced a very large number of products in geat volumes, and beleive it or not, in some third world countries you can still find some "brand new" TYCO sets in some toy stores!!! Besides some MR companies like IHC, Model Power and Mantua inherited TYCO's molds and still produce the same old stuff upgraded to comply the new NMRA standards. Get into Ebbay, there you'll find a lot of TYCO stuff, in there, you may have an idea of its actual price.

My advice, don't discard them. If you have kids sons/grandsons, you may give those to them, since the "damage risk" is always greater with them. You can also use them for weathering/painting experimenting and learning as I do. I have found rolling stock sets for a buck a piece!

Best regards

[dknelson]

I am showing my age. When I think of Tyco/Mantua I think of their late 1950s early 1960s trains, which were all metal steam locomotives, very reliable and sturdy models.

Someone wanted to know what a feeder/terminal was. The wire to your track that powers it is a "feeder" wire. There are three ways I know of to do it. One is to solder the wire to the rail (the outside, to avoid fouling the wheels, although some daring modelers use the inside to hide the feeder wire and solder); the railjoiners with wire attached that Atlas makes, or at least made recently; a "terminal" rail usually a piece of 9" snap track or similar trainset type track with two screws to the side to which you attach your wires.
Dave Nelson