Latest Weathering Work Rusty MILW4292

[Anonymous]

I learned of using Testor's Clear Parts Cement from 8500HPGASTURBINE the other day, I did some just putting the glue on and then taking some rust colored chalk, and I was pleased with the outcome, but thought to take it one step further and on top of the chalk after the clear cement dried, I used some Burnt Umber oil based paint, thinked with thinner and painted this over the chalk, I was really happy with how it then brought out the rust effect while giving it some better texture.

Here is a car I started the mess on, it's a N scale MicroTrains. Talk about tough trying to do a microscopic car.



Here is a picture of the car I worked from Joe Shaw's image



I got close but always have the other side to make right [;)]

[Anonymous]

WOW NIce work, The rust looks awesome!!!!
keep up the good work!!

[Anonymous]

Awesome car. I've gotta try that Testor's cement deal with my WC hopper.

uspscsx

[selector]

You gotta be pleased with results like THAT!!!

[Anonymous]

Looks great!
Before I try this myself can you tell us... did the clear parts cement leave a gloss finish at all... vanish, blend in or dry matt?

Also, looking at the two pics, is the colour difference one of image rendition or did MILW cars tend toward an nasty shade of pink? If the latter... how on earth do we weather models to this shade/sort of shade.

It happens that I was weathering my similar MILW car last night, can't give you a photo, but I was very pleased with the effect of Winsor and Newton's "Buff Titanium"... (almost a North European flesh colour). Applied extremely sparingly as a stiple this both broke the deep yellow at a distance and, close up, gives the appearance of light dusting... so now I would like to achieve some of those good, deep rust patches.

Isn't it weird the things that work in weathering?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by David Foster

Looks great!
Before I try this myself can you tell us... did the clear parts cement leave a gloss finish at all... vanish, blend in or dry matt?

Also, looking at the two pics, is the colour difference one of image rendition or did MILW cars tend toward an nasty shade of pink? If the latter... how on earth do we weather models to this shade/sort of shade.

It happens that I was weathering my similar MILW car last night, can't give you a photo, but I was very pleased with the effect of Winsor and Newton's "Buff Titanium"... (almost a North European flesh colour). Applied extremely sparingly as a stiple this both broke the deep yellow at a distance and, close up, gives the appearance of light dusting... so now I would like to achieve some of those good, deep rust patches.

Isn't it weird the things that work in weathering?

Thanks guys for the compliments. I am rather proud of this one, though it still is a work in progress, and while I am not exactly happy with this sides results, I think it meets the 3 foot rule.

As for your thoughts David, your right, it is faded pretty well, I may have to see about getting some of the Winsor and Newton's paint, that is the brand I am using for the rust, I tend to like the oils better for the weathering, but the acrylics do have a place. I can see getting a paint that is close or mixed that would get that faded effect, then thin it to go over the car. I did do that on an ATSF car and I was suprised with the fade look, the rust didn't turn out quite right, but having a hard time locating a proto photo to work from. The clear parts cement doesn't leave a noticable sheen, but it's there. I want to figure out how to thin it down a little, not sure what it's more closer to in a glue format? Say more like Elmer's or more like a solvent type glue.

I am going to do the other side as close as possible to the picture, I took another shot from Joe Shaw's site with the graffitti in a better front on perspective and am working with getting the spraypainting/graffitti separate so I can make some custom decals to match that car. This is getting fun, though I have never been one to count rivets, this is a challange I think I can get close to.

Back to the weathering/fading, someone mentioned at modeltrainsweathered.com (I recommend the forums for anyone looking for some information and inspiration) they mentioned the clear coat idea, but Rich Divizio makes mention of using cheap hairspray to get probably a similar effect. I don't have any here, but plan to buy some to try. Also they mentioned MicroBrushes:



To apply paints and such. I have a bunch of these and never thought about it, doing N scale is a little tougher for those small scrapes.

And your right David, in the real world who would want to see rust or faded paint or soot on their cars or home, but yet in our world, the attempts to dirty our world are taken in a different light.

I am suprised that MR or RMC mags haven't done an artilce or interview with MellowMike or Rich, or some of the other MR forum members on weathering. I mean the stuff I see posted here and on the forums on the web rival or blow away the weathering techniques in the mags.

Off to decommission some more cars [;)]

[Anonymous]

I posted a long reply to this... where'd it go???

I've mostlt used the acrylics... big advantage is that they will wash off until hard dry.

Will try to re-do long psot if it doesn't show up.

Have you tried the water solubale oil paint "lamp-black"? ... usually comes out a very good matt black... don't know why it sometimes comes out a bit shiny... only really bad case was on a Walthers double track bridge where I was painting straight onto plastic not previous paint. Even though it was 24 hours dry on the bridge it washed off with water and a nylon bristled nail brush. (Would be cautious about scrubbing a painted car...)

[Anonymous]

David,

Truely excellant work! Very prototypical, and thanks for the follow up info. [tup]

[cheese3]

Nice!

[trainboyH16-44]

Wow! I wish I could do anything even near that good in HO!
Trainboy

[TrainFreak409]

That looks awesome! Almost as if you scraped rust off of something, and put it on the car.[:D] Fantastic!

[Anonymous]

Dave,

That's one fine-looking rust job! [bow] I'm saving the link to this thread...

[SpaceMouse]

[bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow][bow]

[Anonymous]

Stop you guys! Your embarassing me [:I]

But thanks for the kudos.

If I can do it, I know 70% of all you guys can, the other 30% just don't weather their cars.

[underworld]

That is some COOL rust!

underworld

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[Anonymous]

Just think, if you do that well in N Scale, then in HO you'd be a prodigy!

That is, if you ever moved to HO[:)]

uspscsx

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by uspscsx

Just think, if you do that well in N Scale, then in HO you'd be a prodigy!

That is, if you ever moved to HO[:)]

uspscsx

Well funny you mention HO, I have to complete the train set for my girlfriends son, and I think I will do some alien work on his layout, I have 3 of his box cars waiting to be dirty and rusty. 2 are IL Terminal, so we know they were never cared for and a Railbox [:)]

[ChessieFan13]

MAN! I have tried and tried to get somethin like that but no go....ican rust tank ttracks and blown up armour but a train car is something that I just cant get it to look right..............your stuff looks great............keep it up

[waltersrails]

QUOTE: Originally posted by trainboyH16-44

Wow! I wish I could do anything even near that good in HO!
Trainboy

I could not agree more.

[michealfarley]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TrainFreak409

That looks awesome! Almost as if you scraped rust off of something, and put it on the car.[:D] Fantastic!

Don't rule out using actual rust. My buddy works for a metal fabrication shop, and they remove rust from all materials prior to use. The machine that does this leaves a fine rust powder in a waste container that works great for weathering. At home, just use some sandpaper on a rusty piece of metal and collect the dust. Lock it in with some dullcoat like usual.

Micheal

[Anonymous]

I gotta get out and get me some of this cement stuff. I'll need it for my RailBox.

No no no, that other RailBox was an experiment, this one is the real deal, where I'm actually using chalks! I'll post pictures when I'm finished.

Darn, I'm runnin' low on RailBoxes. I only got 5 of 'em left[8D] Can't ever have too many RailBoxes...

Okay, okay, I know it was in N Scale, but do you have any tips, Dthurman(Or any of you for that matter)? Perhaps I can enlarge them to HO Scale.

uspscsx

[Anonymous]

I would recommend you work from a picture, well at least for me, it keeps me from trying to go to far, I truly believe that less is more, and If I can find a proto picture of a car of the same style and paint scheme, maybe not that exact car number, really helps to rust out or weather the car you are doing. I think I read that Rich at modeltrainsweathered.com doesn't do proto, but works on an instinct, me I have tried but it doesn't so it for me.

As for the glue idea, it dries pretty fast so you want to have all your stuff on hand and ready. I would mix some different color chalks, I use the oil based chalks as well as the other type, the more dry chalk, not sure what it's called. I also keep separate containers with shaved chalk so I can layer the rust, have your paints squeezed out and ready too.

I have seen some of your cars and I think you will fall right in. Someone a while back on another topic had commented that clear cement was regular white glue, but I am not so sure. Have you tried Rich's hairspray idea yet? BTW when you do the glue, make sure you more or less drop the chalk and try not to brush it on, it will instead smear it off, I just sort of stipple or try to tap it on, then wait a few seconds, then tap the excess back in the container. Wait for about 5 minutes and it should be dry enough to paint. One thing my girlfriend had recommened when she was looking at the car, was to sand some off, the chalk/paint combo, I was cringing of course and trying to figure out how in the world I was going to "sand off" some of the rust, and she just rubbed a little and it actually looked pretty sharp, on the right hand door on the door frame is where she did this, and it gave it a more proto look of paint being gone and rust appearing, so she may be on to something. Though I tend not to let her tell me how to play with trains, and I try not to tell her how to sew [:D]

I plan on posting the other side, as soon as the decals dry, I am trying to get the graffitti done, and figure out how to fade the paint, without actually stripping and repainting the car.