Question for weathering gurus....

[MidlandPacific]

I know that Dullcoat can't be used with weathering chalks (talc, etc, etc), but has anyone successfully used the Floquil flat spray over chalks? If it can be made to work, any particular tricks to it?

[BentnoseWillie]

Uh - I used Dullcote for years over chalks and over tempera powders. It works fine, but like any clear coat over powdered media it reduces the effect slightly.

This phenomenon is actually a plus of chalk weathering - not only is it reversible until you clear coat it, but clear coating reduces the effect, giving a second chance to decide you prefer the lighter effect.

[pcarrell]

You just have to spray in several VERY light coats...or you blow the chalk away. Think "mist coat" and your on the right track.

[orsonroy]

Many top-notch military modelers add chalk weathering to a WET dullcoat surface. There was an article on this technique in a Fine Scale Miniatures mag about two years ago.

Most people I know that use chalks don't seal them after their applied; they just gently handle the cars, as little as possible once the chalk is on.

[selector]

I have weathered a 0-6-0 with chalk and Dullcoat. It is a painstaking process if you want it to turn out well. Brush on a coating of chalk so that a fair bit is where you want it, and give a VERY brief burst or two of the Dullcoat, with appropriate masking in place, of course. It dries in about 5 minutes, or more if you are too heavy with it. Repeat the process. When you spray, the chalk dust will seem to disappear..a litle disconcerting. But, when it dries, the Dullcoat will have held the chalk in a different pattern, usually lower than you'd like it on the model. So, keep up the iterations. For me, and my tastes, it took about 6-8 applications until it looked right.

Remember, in weathering, less is really more. You don't want to have to repaint the entire model, so live with a few applications for a few days, and add more chalk later if you must.

[ProtoWeathering]

Any liquid applied over the chalk will dilute it, whether it's Dull Cote or any other flat or glossy finish

Why use chalks when there are so many good weathering powders that have their own adhesive built in? You don't have to build up layer after layer of Dull Cote making your over all finish cloudy. Then if you do want to use Dull Cote when you're done, it doesn't make the powder disappear. Chalk has it's uses, but mainly for items you aren't going to be handling, like structures, etc. The only advantage that chalk has is that it's cheap. Other than that, it's pretty limited for weathering rolling stock.

Jerry

You can't do this with chalk...

[Anonymous]

Hey Jerry, that's some sweet rust, what product do you recommend?

uspscsx

[pcarrell]

QUOTE: Originally posted by selector

I have weathered a 0-6-0 with chalk and Dullcoat. It is a painstaking process if you want it to turn out well. Brush on a coating of chalk so that a fair bit is where you want it, and give a VERY brief burst or two of the Dullcoat, with appropriate masking in place, of course. It dries in about 5 minutes, or more if you are too heavy with it. Repeat the process. When you spray, the chalk dust will seem to disappear..a litle disconcerting. But, when it dries, the Dullcoat will have held the chalk in a different pattern, usually lower than you'd like it on the model. So, keep up the iterations. For me, and my tastes, it took about 6-8 applications until it looked right.

Remember, in weathering, less is really more. You don't want to have to repaint the entire model, so live with a few applications for a few days, and add more chalk later if you must.

I'm curious as to how wet you are making your coats of paint.

I've never had any moving around of the chalk unless I sprayed too heavy, but maybe I've just been lucky.

I found that a very light misting for the first couple of coats, maybe not quite enough to cover the whole surface, was good to "anchor" it down for heavier coats to follow. I hold the can far enough away that the paint is almost dry when it hits the surface and that works well.

Also, to keep from getting too rough and uneven of a finish, put the can of paint in a bowl of warm, NOT HOT, water for about 5 minutes before you paint. Don't get any water around the business end, and wipe the can dry before you shoot. Don't ask how I learned the last lesson, it was ugly. Just think swinging can, water drops and wet paint and you'll get the picture. The warm water warms the paint inside the can and it then atomizes better for a smoother finish. Of course an air brush is best for this. The extra control is well worth the investment.

[MidlandPacific]

[Why use chalks when there are so many good weathering powders that have their own adhesive built in? /quote]

The short answer is that I have the chalk, and while I am looking forward to the day when I can give the highly recommended Bragdon's powders a try, I'm cheap and I hate to throw anything away if it's useful.

But thanks to all for the, as usual, good advice cheerfully given. I'll post pictures of the engine when it's done (provided I succeed in making it look good, that is!).

http://mprailway.blogspot.com

"The first transition era - wood to steel!"

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