Akane 2-6-6-6 H-8 Allegheny (1962)

[knewsom]

Does anyone out there have a Brass Akane 2-6-6-6? I just bought one at an estate sale. It looks like it is in great condition, but when I put it on the track it seems like the drivers are seized up. I was hoping someone could provide me a closeup picture of both the rear and front drivers (both sides) so I can compare and make sure something is not amiss.

I had planned on taking it apart to clean and lube, but I would appreciate any pictures to help.

Thanks,
Kevin

[Virginian]

Sounds like the motor has had it. Or are you getting a motor spinning sound and no movement? In that case it may be a 'U' joint loose of slipped. If that doesn't lead you to it, turn it upside down on something soft, and very carefully of course, and see if you can move the drivers backwards and forwards just a little bit to make sure the driver axles aren't the problem. Then take the two little screws out of the bottom gearcase covers. This should let the worm seperate from the axle gear and the drivers should turn. Run jumpers to the engine then and see if the motor spins without the gearbox drag. I don't remember if these had both sets of drivers powered or not, but you can tell for sure if you have one or two gear boxes showing underneath.
If the drivers are indeed siezed up go thru the siderods and linkage until you find what's tight. Something may be just slightly bent. If an axle is stuck on a shaft, get some Kroil (accept no substitutes, as there ARE NONE) and put a drop on it, both sides if possible, and let it sit for two days. Then try gently forcing it back and forth with your fingers. If you're lucky that will do it. I bought a brass Y6b many moons ago that had a siezed axle, and that took care of it.
Good luck.

[dknelson]

Ancient and unreliable memory is that some of those old Akanes did not in fact have bearings for the axles -- the axles ran in slots in the brass frames, and that over time the slots would loosen, throwing off the alignment and possibly contributing to a seize up if the the side rods got misaligned just right. The good old method of removing the motor so the engine can run freely (by hand of course) should tell you if that is the problem. If it is, ancient and unreliable memory also recollects an article in MR or RMC about using Mantua brass bearings inserted into enlarged Akane slots in the frame but be careful because too much metal removed and the frame might not be there any more.
Dave Nelson

[knewsom]

I actually dissasembled the loco today ( just took the shell off) and attached jumpers to both leads on the motor.

I was able to turn the engine drive train by hand, so I then ran leads to the motor directly. At that point the motor turned over and the drivers would move with no problem. It did ease my concern about the side rods being seized up. There must be a short somewhere in the the pickup wires because it still does not move on the track.

I tested the pickup from the driver wheels and on two sets of drivers it seemed to pick up from both the engineer and fireman's side. This can't be right can it. There is no additional pickup wire from the drivers so I just assumed that the pickup was through the frame.

The drivetrain does need to be lubed as it is completely dry. What do you recommend for lubrication?

Thanks for your help,
Kevin

[Virginian]

The insulation on brass drivers between the center and the tire has been known to go bad, thus creating the dead short. Or, someone could have flipped a couple around giving the same reasult. Better test them all individually.

[knewsom]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Virginian

The insulation on brass drivers between the center and the tire has been known to go bad, thus creating the dead short. Or, someone could have flipped a couple around giving the same reasult. Better test them all individually.

I checked that none of them were flipped, and tonight I will test each individually with my ohm meter to see if the insulation has gone bad. If that is the case, what can be done to correct it outside of getting new drivers? I imagine they are hard to find for this loco. Is there anything that can be done to fix them?

Thanks,
Kevin

[ragnar]

I have a older PFM G.N 2-8-8-2 that someone for what ever reason had switched out a set of drivers, I was lucky in that I had a friend that did brass locomotive repair and painting,those guys never throw anything away.. long story short he had a set that fit and she's hauling manifest tonnage to this day.

Try checking with those guys ,Also there was a arttical in I think MR a few years back on re-ensulating locomotive drivers....just remember you need not be in a great hurry the solution will come by and by,the Allegheny even a older Akane is a desirable asset to any motive power roster.....Good luck to ya,

[Anonymous]

The driver can be repaired, I had a B&O L-2 where the insualtion went bad and a brass locomotive repair shop fixed that driver and I have had no problems since.

Rick

[Virginian]

I had a driver set go on a Key, and though I got a replacement set I tried to fix it. I do not know exactly what Key used, but it wasn't plastic. I figured it had soaked up something that was serving as a conductor. It looked like a kind of pressed fiber.
First, I soaked and scubbed it in good old soapy water. Let dry like a week in the winter over a heat duct. Checked it and we were down to a high resistance short. Soaked and scrubbed it with laquer thinner and acetone. Dried that. Down to a higher resistance open.
Soaked and scubbed it, and let it set for a week in 91% alcohol. Dried it. Short gone. The insulation looked a bit fuzzy. I shaved it with a new Xacto blade and repainted it. It looked good and I kept it for years, finally sold it as a spare with the loco.
I cannot vouch for this one, having never done it, but I knew a guy who had two steamers he said he fixed this way. He match marked the rim and center and pressed them apart. He lightly filed the insulation on both pieces. He mixed up some Elmer's 5 minute epoxy and spread some lightly on both parts, and then pressed them back together and let cure. They didn't wobble and they were not shorted out is all I know.