Adding lights to brass locomotives...

[Anonymous]

I'm curious about the process of adding headlights, backup lights and class lights to unpainted brass loco's. Can anyone explain it and tell me what parts you like to use?

Thanks

[Anonymous]

Steam or diesel? What scale?

[Don Gibson]

Working headlight's - easy
Backup light - doable, but more complicated
Marker Lamp's and number boards - very, very, diffecult.

[Anonymous]

Sorry, steam mostly, in HO scale.

Don, is it worth paying for?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by wes454

Sorry, steam mostly, in HO scale....

It depends on the individual model. Some are rather easy, while on others, it's difficult to get to the head light to install the bulb.

QUOTE: ...is it worth paying for?

I don't know how good your modeling skills are, but if you have any doubts, then yes it's well worth it. Especially if the model is worth $1k or more. Whats another $50 or so?
Will you be operating with DCC? If so, it's well worth having the decoder installed the same time as the lights.

[Anonymous]

Thanks Gary, do you know if a place like Tony's Train Exchange or Litchfield Station would do both the lights and decoder? Yes, I plan to run DCC, so it makes sense to me to have them both done.

Even if the brass is under 1k I could justify another $50!

[Anonymous]

Sorry Wess I can't speak of recommendations. I do my own plastic models, but I don't own any brass locos. I have installed lights on a couple brass diesel models for a friend. However, you might want to post that as another question to see what others have to say. Then give them a call for prices.

[Don Gibson]

QUOTE: Originally posted by wes454

Sorry, steam mostly, in HO scale.

Don, is it worth paying for?

HEADLAMPS - YES .Constant Voltage mod. . Worst case drilling out headlamp . $25 + labor.
BACKUP LAMP requires lamp + plug & socket connection from engine. More than double the work.
NUMBER BOARDS & MARKERS not worth the effort for steam due to solid castings. White jewels, better.

[dinwitty]

For classification lamps, use bugboard decals, with black background.
I have the Rivarossi NKP 2-8-4 plastic classification detail parts, I hollowed them out, carefully drilled a hole to accept a mini-light, and a sheet of plastic decaled with the bugboard can do it.
The are brass classification numberboards available to try (or should be)
There are standard lit marker lamps available.. Tomar industries.
I used a 50 count mini-lamp offer 1.5 volt and made a custom constant light unit using diodes inline with the motor.
This can be made directional for front/rear lighting.

[SPFan]

For headlights I use 1.5V grain of rice bulbs and an array of 6 diodes if you want directional lighting. I make my own lenses out of clear plastic taken from bubble wrap packaging. You can make a die punch by taking a drill of the same diameter of the headlight opening and drilling a hole in some 1/16" or greater thickness mild steel or brass. Then take the drill and mount it backwards in drill press or hand drill and sand then poli***he back end of the drill bit to a radius aproximating the lens curvature using ever finer grits of carbide sandpaper. Then use the bit to punch out lenses. Grain of rice bulbs will fit in some classification lights designed for bulbs. I haven't tried it but you may be able to work a light fiber into a class light. Depends on the location. The fiber cannot be bent beyond a critical angle like a wire can.

Pete

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by wes454

I'm curious about the process of adding headlights, backup lights and class lights to unpainted brass loco's. Can anyone explain it and tell me what parts you like to use?

Thanks

[Anonymous]

Good timming!
I just re-built an 1960's SW1500 switcher 'Modified' to a MP-15ac SP.
Here's what you do.
1/2> Goggles, Needle-Nose/small-tweezers, Panavise, Dremel-tool & good-adhesive <I used
I used 'Hot-Stuff' -#639-519 UFO instant glue <for quick-work in tight-connections> &
#639-521 'Thick-UFO Glue-dries in 60 seconds' - good for Open-Gapped-connections>
They dry 'Clear' and use the small-.010" -for the 'Instant - glue' & .020" Adapter-Plastic-tips
to the nozzels of each glue-bottles for 'Fine-Drips' combined w/toothpics.
1) Plastruct say 3/16-inch width.
2) Cut-out the areas where the headlites/classification lites will go.
It also depends on which 'Road' you will be 'Modeling' <i.e., F-units, E-units & All-Southern-Pac's will need a larger-area to cut-out to install the headlite-package.>
Now, depending which companies you want to purchase the 'Headlamp-Outside-Brackets'
I used Detail-Associates headlamp parts-the Plastic-ones & S.R.E. Brass/Metals.
Depending if you want to get 'more-authentic,' Sunrise Enterprises has 'Extremely-Proto-
type-headlamp-packages' and Brass/metal-etched as long as 'ONLY' the plastic-L.E.D.
will be touching-it.
Why?? Electrical-shorts with the leads of power-wires connecting the L.E.D.
3) Will you be installing the light-package? If yes, ok.
If no, I know someone who has done DCC-mods <light-packages & sound> for years and
I've found no-one as good of work he does.
Vinson Custom Electronics outside of Reno, Nevada does ExCeLLent-Work!!
Enjoy!!

[Virginian]

Headlight and back up are no sweat. The back up doesn't need an engine connection just an insulated pick up from the left rail, a resistor and an LED. As for the class lites, it's doable with the Tomar classification lights, but it's rather tedious. If you are having it done, ask the price and then decide. They are definitely noticeable in low light conditions.
Oh, and if you are worried about resale value, buy some detail class lites and use those and save the original class lite castings.

[nobullchitbids]

For what it is worth, I currently am experimenting with using optical fiber to run the lights to where I want them. I have not actually done this yet, but I have the fiber and soon will try. The idea is to remove the boiler from the frame, then remove one of the domes (which on most brass models simply is screwed on from inside). The dome then is tinned so that it can be sweat-soldered to the boiler (it then does not need a screw). The screw hole then becomes the mounting base for a 12-16 v. lamp (you can use a bigger bulb this way -- more lumens). Very small holes, e.g. .020", are drilled into the dome's base and the fiber lines inserted into the holes. THEORETICALLY, when the dome is sweat soldered, either at that time or after (don't get things too hot!), the ends of the fiber lines will swell to become gethering lenses and concurrently anchor themselves in the dome. The fiber lines then are run to where you want light -- headlight, taillight, markers, number boards, even gauge clusters in the cabs. For firebox light, use a differently colored bulb or bulbs (red, yellow, white) set into e.g. the sandbox and run the fiber from there to the firebox door, perhaps to the sides (how good are you at drilling # 80 holes?). Or use a colored lens in the door and run fiber from the dome.

Be careful that the fiber cables do not interfere with operation of the motor.

[Anonymous]

Awesome Guys! thanks so much!

[JimValle]

Hi Wes: Like the other guys have said, the headlight-backup light job is a matter of drilling, bulbs, wiring and diodes. Not too difficult if you're good with electronics. The class lights are the challenge because they're so tiny. Most brass fans use jewels set in the dimple of the class light casting with a tiny drop of white glue or similar adhesive. Class lights on the smokebox are white and green. A few railroads, most notably the Pennsy, put red and amber lights on the pilot beam for backup moves. Pennsy also added red-amber markers to the rear of the tender deck for the same reason, when and engine was running light or pushing on the back of a train. My own approach is "quick and dirty" I apply a tiny drop of enamel paint in the dimples of the class light fitting. White, green red and yellow are needed plus a very fine brush. I like the result better than jewels and it's easier!