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Good timming! I just re-built an 1960's SW1500 switcher 'Modified' to a MP-15ac SP. Here's what you do. 1/2> Goggles, Needle-Nose/small-tweezers, Panavise, Dremel-tool & good-adhesive I used 'Hot-Stuff' -#639-519 UFO instant glue <for quick-work in tight-connections> & #639-521 'Thick-UFO Glue-dries in 60 seconds' - good for Open-Gapped-connections> They dry 'Clear' and use the small-.010" -for the 'Instant - glue' & .020" Adapter-Plastic-tips to the nozzels of each glue-bottles for 'Fine-Drips' combined w/toothpics. 1) Plastruct say 3/16-inch width. 2) Cut-out the areas where the headlites/classification lites will go. It also depends on which 'Road' you will be 'Modeling' <i.e., F-units, E-units & All-Southern-Pac's will need a larger-area to cut-out to install the headlite-package.> Now, depending which companies you want to purchase the 'Headlamp-Outside-Brackets' I used Detail-Associates headlamp parts-the Plastic-ones & S.R.E. Brass/Metals. Depending if you want to get 'more-authentic,' Sunrise Enterprises has 'Extremely-Proto- type-headlamp-packages' and Brass/metal-etched as long as 'ONLY' the plastic-L.E.D. will be touching-it. Why?? Electrical-shorts with the leads of power-wires connecting the L.E.D. 3) Will you be installing the light-package? If yes, ok. If no, I know someone who has done DCC-mods <light-packages & sound> for years and I've found no-one as good of work he does. Vinson Custom Electronics outside of Reno, Nevada does ExCeLLent-Work!! Enjoy!!
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