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Need help fine tuning the Hogwarts Model--Photos Added.

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 10:02 AM
I see your point.

AS I stare at the diagram, to me what seems logical, since I just replaced the screw. that the truck is warped or possibly the screw was tapped out of square, like you and Gary are suggesting.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by davekelly on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 9:50 AM
I think Gary is on the right track. Looking at the way the truck is mounted, it seems that the front end would ride up if the truck frame is bent. I agree that it would be beneficial to set the truck by itself on the track. The next thing I would try is to mount the truck without the spring to see if it sits right. That way you can tell if the mounting screw is square with everything else - it may be set at something other than 90 degrees which would cause the truck not to sit level.
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 9:44 AM
Might check the phone book for a local spring manufacture. Sometimes they well have left over springs from previous jobs, that might work.

Just a thought....

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 9:09 AM


The only thing missing is the spring that rides between the chassis and the truck. I didn't know how to make one.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 9:02 AM
Chip
Have you sat the front truck by itself on the track and rolled it? I wonder if the truck is bent, or out of gauge or could it be backward? Something sounds out of alignment for sure.
Photos will help. Can you take a couple of just the truck, top view and side view?
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 8:39 AM
I can, but it will be late tonight as I rush from work directly to my train club meeting. I'll get home around 11.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by davekelly on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 8:27 AM
Space,

Is it possible to post a few pics of the truck in question as well as the method used to mount the thing on the engine? While you are doing a great job of describing it, it is still somewhat difficult to picture it in my mind.
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 8:16 AM
I agree that there is something wrong with the front end. But I have yet to determine what it could be. As as the truck is sitting on the track, not only does the front end sit higher, it seriously wants to pu***o the left. The only thing that determines it's location relative to the chassis is a single screw within a brass sleeve that determines the height. I just replaced the screw so it is straight. The wheels can hit the sides of the chassis with extreme turning, but that fare exceeds the turn of an 18" radius. Ultimately, what holds the truck in place is the brass sleeve which is maybe 1/32 in thickness around a 1/8 inch screw, and the screw head which might be 3/16 in diameter. Theoretically, the spring then is placing torsional stress on the truck and would be the only thing altering its position relative to the chassis--well that and gravity of the truck and the gravity of the metal boiler.

Any other ideas or theories?

It could be the weight of the boiler pusing down on the truck that is causing the front end to rise. If this is the case, the front end needs to ride higher relative to the chassis.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 6, 2005 6:31 AM
The front end of the truck is lifting for a reason - something must be either bent or jamming against something else. I would check that it's not jammed against the chassis anywhere and that the mounting isn't bent - I had an N scale 2-6-2 which wouldn't pull anything and ran badly, traced it to the lead and trailing truck mounting arms being bent. Bear in mind that you want just enough weight on the truck to keep it on the rails - any more (or too stiff a spring) and it'll lift the lead drivers off the rails. Hope this helps!

PS. Regarding the original "Hogwarts" - in my experience the main problems with Bachmann OO steamer mechanisms are with wheel quartering (seldom correct from the factory - I've seen a few brand new examples tested and been appalled, the one I have took about 6 months tweaking to get running properly), and also out-of-gauge wheelsets. Set both of these correctly and run for an hour's break-in in both directions, and you should have a smooth-running loco. Hoping this might be of use to anyone trying to fix one of these!
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 11:34 PM
Okay. For laughs and giggles I took the front truck completely off and ran it around the track. It ran smoothly with no derails including both high and low speeds through the S turns.

I put the front truck back on and finally noticed something that has been staring me in the face. The rear wheels of the front truck are squarely on the track. The front wheels are light and up a little like a perpetual wheelie. Move a quarter inch and they jump ship.

So how do I even out the load. I'm thinking a shim under a washer under the spring to force the front end down.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 11:03 PM
Something is bent or too tight. I used to have one of those Tyco 4-6-0's, of all things the Bicentennial one. The front truck would NEVER stay on the track no matter what. I ended up pulling the screw up tight which raised the wheels off the rails. Steam engines are a fickle lot. I would start by doing what was suggested and removing the boiler and motor so you can pu***he chassis around and attempt to observe where the problem is coming from. It should move easily - if there's a hitch in it, the rods are not correct or the quartering is off. If it won't roll smoothly without the motor, it won't run smoothly with it.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 10:16 PM
I put the new screw in and now it is really bad. How bad? If I move the engine ahead 1/4 inch, the left front wheel of the truch pops off the track. I tried a washer, Same thing.

The drivers are not involved at this point.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by BR60103 on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 10:09 PM
Chip: we had an operting session a few months ago with 3 Bachman Hogwartses in attendance. One fellow was doubleheading his paie, and one of them had a real tick in the mechanism. We think it was too much play in the drivers. A young fellow brought his and it wasn't running at all. When I left, the layout owner was working on it.
My own loco seems to be operating OK.

--David

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Posted by robengland on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:38 PM
Hey Chip, don't take Don personally. He's just brusque - he's not getting at you. The world is full of gruff blunt railwaymen [:)]

I sympathise on several levels
- *&^*&%*#^ things that won't work
- particulary things that won't work after I made them
- wanting to give something to my son that pushes a button

I predict this may be a long thread [:D] Wishing you courage and patience. As others already said: you've got tons of support here to get you to a result.
Rob Proud owner of the a website sharing my model railroading experiences, ideas and resources.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 5:41 PM
If your pilot truck is derailing, Take it off. It doesnt pick power and the engine will run without it, give your son something to run until you get to fixing the screw. Of course if its the drivers it may take a couple hours tinkering to get it to keep on the rails. Is there any other engine that is acceptable to your son for his train?
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 4:09 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Roadtrp

The Hornby Hogwart's locomotive is priced at $131.40 U.S. (69.99 pounds).

http://www.mailorderexpress.com/hornby1/hornbypage.html

I've never paid that much for a locomotive, but with all the problems you've had it might be worth it. I think the Hornby model might hold its value as a collector’s item fairly well.


Thanks, but the first one had a few Humpty-Dumpties. He can graduate any time to something better by proving himself.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by Roadtrp on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 1:42 PM
The Hornby Hogwart's locomotive is priced at $131.40 U.S. (69.99 pounds).

http://www.mailorderexpress.com/hornby1/hornbypage.html

I've never paid that much for a locomotive, but with all the problems you've had it might be worth it. I think the Hornby model might hold its value as a collector’s item fairly well.

-Jerry
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 1:29 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by davekelly

Chip,

Here ya. Nothing more frustrating than derailments! Was just thinking that I seem to remember you were looking for additional cars. Perhaps the body of the Hogwarts could be fitted to another chassis?


He's fine with the paint on the new one. The worst that will happen is I'll buy a 2-8-0 Spectrum. But I haven't given up on the MDC 4-6-0 yet.

Chip

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Posted by davekelly on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 12:17 PM
Chip,

Here ya. Nothing more frustrating than derailments! Was just thinking that I seem to remember you were looking for additional cars. Perhaps the body of the Hogwarts could be fitted to another chassis?
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:48 AM
Thanks Gary.

Dave,

I had so many problems with the Bachman Hogwarts that I am not considering another. My son's frustration started with the derail problems of the first Hogwarts. It was always bell-weather of whether I had the track right.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by davekelly on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:38 AM
Space,

Just thought I'd tell you I saw in the latest MRR that trainworld has the hogwarts set for $69.00.
If you ain't having fun, you're not doing it right and if you are having fun, don't let anyone tell you you're doing it wrong.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:26 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse
... I know he likes sound, but I know I'd never get the money to fini***he layout if I were to drop four bills on an engine, that my son may or may not like. (He's autistic and there's no telling what he'll like or not like.)

I think he wants the engine that YOU built Chip. He knows daddy built that engine for him and it's special. Take your time, when you have time, and give it a through inspection. You will get it running again. We're all here to help.
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:21 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson

QUOTE: Sometimes I don't understand a word you say"

l'll try to use plainer English.

a 'wobble' in the wheels (rods, quartering, etc.) will occur once with each revolution. A 'wobble' on a sectional piece of track (such as a bridge or turnout) suggest's it's the fault of the track.
QUOTE: I've been suggesting it is the track.

In your case, if your body is not attached securely, any 'bump' in the track can set it off. - in short, a combination.

It is possible, but although I cannot get it totaly tight, movement seems to be restricted to about 1/16 vertically.


Re the Hogswarts Expess: As lovable as it may be, it's a cheap children's engine. How much effort and money can you expend trying to make it otherwise? THAT is a practical decision you have to make.

Comprende ?


I actually got that about a month ago when you said it then. I had all but decided to go with the Bachman Spectrum 2-8-0 when my wife nixed it. The MDC 4-6-0, I consider to be higher quality than the Bachman toy, so I figured that was my best compromise. I also figured going into it, based upon the collective wisdom of this board, that it would need some tweeking.

I'm also getting the impression that you think I'm stupid or something, which I have been trying to diffuse with humor and other means. Is there something else I can do to help the situation?

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by CNJ831 on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:02 AM
Chip, you've got to appreciate that the MDC 4-6-0 kit was basically designed decades ago and intended for modelers with at least a medium level of craftmanship at building such kits, as was the usually the case years ago. More often than not, those modelers would adjust, tweek and repeatedly fine tune these engines' mechanisms over the course of many weeks before putting them on the tracks and getting them to perform flawlessly. One can not expect the average or newer hobbyist today to jump in and assemble such a locomotive kit in a few nights and have it run like a Kato.

I have a mildly autistic granddaughter who loves my trains so I can fully appreciate the frustrations involved for both you and the child. Do all involved a favor and purchase a RTR, quality, but not excessively expensive, engine with a good performance reputation (a Bachmann 2-8-0 might be a good choice ) and paint it up Hogwarts if you like. Tinkering endlessly with a mediocre engine, obviously having several inherent problems with many possible sources, is not the way to go in this situation.

CNJ831
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 8:02 AM
M636C

I bookmarked the site. Thanks.

I don't know the money conversion, but L70 seemsl like a lot. It would be the most expensive way to buy--from the manufacturer and overseas to boot. I would have to be very convinced of the superior quality of the Hornby--and fail miserably building the MDC.

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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Posted by M636C on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 12:56 AM
Chip,

Hornby do sell direct.

Go to www.hornby.com and follow the prompts to "Hogwarts"

They have a station with the brick arches to walk through (through the bricks, that is).

Check it out. The couplers on the Bachmann match Hornby.

Peter
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Posted by Don Gibson on Tuesday, April 5, 2005 12:30 AM
QUOTE: Sometimes I don't understand a word you say"

l'll try to use plainer English.

a 'wobble' in the wheels (rods, quartering, etc.) will occur once with each revolution. A 'wobble' on a sectional piece of track (such as a bridge or turnout) suggest's it's the fault of the track.

In your case, if your body is not attached securely, any 'bump' in the track can set it off. - in short, a combination.


Re the Hogswarts Expess: As lovable as it may be, it's a cheap children's engine. How much effort and money can you expend trying to make it otherwise? THAT is a practical decision you have to make.

Comprende ?
Don Gibson .............. ________ _______ I I__()____||__| ||||| I / I ((|__|----------| | |||||||||| I ______ I // o--O O O O-----o o OO-------OO ###########################
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Monday, April 4, 2005 11:11 PM
The wobble only occurs on a bridge. I suspect that it only happens with the 4-6-0 because it is so much heavier than any other engine that the bridge gives a little--couple this with the high center of gravity and you see a wobble on the bridge. I'm going to check it out, but I suspect that we are barking up the wrong tree. But I will check it out. I suspect the bent screw more as I could not bend it within 1/8 inch of sraight and no matter how you look at it, it is 1/8" off either front, back, or to the side. This to me is the obvious first step. But if that doens't do it, I'll explore the other lines of thought.

Unfortunately I have a late schedule Mon, Tues, and Weds, so with luck, I'll get to it on Thursday, screw in hand.

Chip

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 4, 2005 11:02 PM
Well, as you know i recently built an MDC 4-6-0 as well. The wobble could be the siderods or drivers. Take it apart and roll each set of drivers across a piece of glass. If they wobble, theres your problem. Might look to Bowser for new parts. If they roll nice and straight see if the siderods are bent. Mine has a slight wobble, but i greatly reduced it by straightening the siderods.
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Posted by SpaceMouse on Monday, April 4, 2005 11:00 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Don Gibson

SINCE MOUSE ASSEMBLED his first MDC kit, I'll vote for quartering.


Sometimes I don't understand a word you say. I like your suggestion about the BLI. I know he likes sound, but I know I'd never get the money to fini***he layout if I were to drop four bills on an engine, that my son may or may not like. (He's autistic and there's no telling what he'll like or not like.)

Chip

Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.

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