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Weight Of Flat Cars

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  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Mt Gambier, Australia
  • 57 posts
Weight Of Flat Cars
Posted by aussiesteve on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 7:04 PM
I intend to be able to change loads as needed and some of these loads may actually make the car heavier than necessary if I follow the NMRA guidelines.

[?]Should flat cars be weighted the same as other cars or otherwise?

[?]What would you do?
[?]What should I do?
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 7:32 PM
Steve,

Are these loads solid lead? If not, I don't think there will be any problem. If the flatcars are heavier than average, just add extra motive power and position them near the front of the train.

I always make sure to add hidden weight to my empty flats. Most of my problems have resulted from cars being too light.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 7:53 PM
Flatcars are almost too light. Ive piled loads on all of mine.
  • Member since
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  • From: Mt Gambier, Australia
  • 57 posts
Posted by aussiesteve on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 11:45 PM
Thanks guys, I'm building some at the moment from Steam Era kits and was wondering
  • Member since
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Posted by simon1966 on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 7:12 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by KenLarsen

Steve,

I always make sure to add hidden weight to my empty flats. Most of my problems have resulted from cars being too light.



What technique do you use for this? There are not many places on a flat to hide any extra weight..

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

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  • From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
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Posted by dknelson on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 8:26 AM
One way to add weight to a flat car (or gon) is to replace the steel weight it comes with, with one made of sheet lead (BUT be careful -- I encase the lead with thick paint first to minimize touching bare lead, and I wash my hands obsessively while handling lead). Another technique is to wrap very fine solder around the axles. Using metal trucks and wheels can add a bit of weight.
The important thing about adding a heavy load is not so much the weight itself but moving the center of gravity too high. That is what is more likely to cause a derailment problem.
Dave Nelson
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Posted by Sperandeo on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:29 AM
Hi Steve,

I try to weight flat cars to match NMRA RP20.5 without a load. That's most difficult on cars with straight sills, but substituting sheet lead for a steel weight as Dave Nelson suggested will definitely help. (It's also a good idea to replace steel weights if you use magnetic uncouplers.) On cars with fishbelly side sills there's plenty of room to pack in weight nice and low, and I don't mind sacrificing underbody detail for weight on these cars because they ride so close to the rail that I don't miss it. Adding a removable load will obviously add some weight, but if the car has a low center of gravity when empty it should ride okay with most loads.

Good luck,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 11:56 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966

QUOTE: Originally posted by KenLarsen

Steve,

I always make sure to add hidden weight to my empty flats. Most of my problems have resulted from cars being too light.



What technique do you use for this? There are not many places on a flat to hide any extra weight..


I guess it depends on whether it's a fishbelly or straight body - mine [currently] are all fish bellies, so I was able to sneak in a few extra pieces of flat lead.

Dave Nelson and Andy S. both have excellent ideas though - especially regarding the center-of-gravity issue.
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Mt Gambier, Australia
  • 57 posts
Posted by aussiesteve on Wednesday, February 16, 2005 8:33 PM
Thanks guys, I have room between the centre sills on these cars and should be able to add some weight there. [8D]

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