Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

How would you lightly weather a corrugated aluminum N scale roof?

1110 views
6 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    October 2020
  • 39 posts
How would you lightly weather a corrugated aluminum N scale roof?
Posted by davefr on Wednesday, May 22, 2024 9:29 AM

I'm scratch building an N scale 2 stall roundhouse and just made the roof.  I cut aluminum HVAC tape into sections and embossed these into a corrugated pattern. (ie Luke Towans spring technique). I shot the roof with Tamiya Flat lacquer to dull it down and so far I'm very happy with the real metal look.  I want to take it to the next step and do some very modest weathering.  I don't want layers of gray paint.  The look I'm trying to achive is similar to the Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. The look is mostly metal with some streaks of light rust and discoloration.  I'm a newbie to weathering.  How would you achieve this look? TIA.

   

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,700 posts
Posted by snjroy on Wednesday, May 22, 2024 10:32 AM

Hi there. You can add rust with either paint or chalks.

With paint, you can use a commercial rust color, or mix burnt sienna with a bit of brown. Apply using a dry-brushing technique (ask if you have never done this).

Chalks are available commercially for modeling, or you can use artists chalk sticks (the non-oily types). For the latter, scrape off some chalk from the stick using an X-Acto blade, and apply the powder with a brush. Some folks add water to the powder.

Personally, I would apply the rust color, then add a coat of semi-transparent black paint (a wash) over the entire rook to remove the sheen. 

In all cases, I would practice on a hidden side first (e.g., a non-visible side that will sit against a wall), or on a spare piece. Since you built the roof from scratch, you might want to make a small piece of roof, and practice on that first. But you can always work on the model directly - just be prepared to start over if things don't look right.

Good luck!

Simon

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,669 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Wednesday, May 22, 2024 10:23 PM

Hi davefr,

I would suggest using a very thin wash applied with an almost dry brush so the wash won't run too much.

Cheers!!

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,339 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Thursday, May 23, 2024 4:31 PM

I use artist piant tubes of burnt umber and sienna.  I then mix a small amount of each with a toothpick and then apply it as spots on the structure or downward to mimic streaks.  It seems with rust, less is more.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Westford MA
  • 478 posts
Posted by Tophias on Friday, May 24, 2024 7:28 AM

Have you ever tried Pan Pastels? They come in some great weathering colors and are very easy to use (if I can do it I'm sure it would be easy for you). And, if you don't like an application you can just remove it and start again.

Regards, Chris 

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,404 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Friday, May 24, 2024 12:50 PM

I use weathering powders pretty much exclusively now.  If I think they are too heavy after application, I can just rinse them off and try again.

I generally use "corrugated" styrene plastic sheet to model a corrugated roof.  For this, I first spray paint it with silver rattle can paint.  Then it gets a coat of spray flat paint to get rid of the shine.  I don’t like the shiny look of a real metal model roof.  After that, I use weathering powder on the bottom edges, with black and rust.  After weathering, I use a second flat coat of paint to seal the weathering powder when I'm happy with it.

This is the same technique I use to model a chain-link fence.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,278 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Friday, May 24, 2024 12:57 PM

MisterBeasley
I use weathering powders pretty much exclusively now.  If I think they are too heavy after application, I can just rinse them off and try again.

Even after getting better at using the airbrush and washes, powders still look more like real dirt or rust to me.

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!