MisterBeasleyI use weathering powders pretty much exclusively now. If I think they are too heavy after application, I can just rinse them off and try again.
Even after getting better at using the airbrush and washes, powders still look more like real dirt or rust to me.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I use weathering powders pretty much exclusively now. If I think they are too heavy after application, I can just rinse them off and try again.
I generally use "corrugated" styrene plastic sheet to model a corrugated roof. For this, I first spray paint it with silver rattle can paint. Then it gets a coat of spray flat paint to get rid of the shine. I don’t like the shiny look of a real metal model roof. After that, I use weathering powder on the bottom edges, with black and rust. After weathering, I use a second flat coat of paint to seal the weathering powder when I'm happy with it.
This is the same technique I use to model a chain-link fence.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Have you ever tried Pan Pastels? They come in some great weathering colors and are very easy to use (if I can do it I'm sure it would be easy for you). And, if you don't like an application you can just remove it and start again.
Regards, Chris
I use artist piant tubes of burnt umber and sienna. I then mix a small amount of each with a toothpick and then apply it as spots on the structure or downward to mimic streaks. It seems with rust, less is more.
Hi davefr,
I would suggest using a very thin wash applied with an almost dry brush so the wash won't run too much.
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Hi there. You can add rust with either paint or chalks.
With paint, you can use a commercial rust color, or mix burnt sienna with a bit of brown. Apply using a dry-brushing technique (ask if you have never done this).
Chalks are available commercially for modeling, or you can use artists chalk sticks (the non-oily types). For the latter, scrape off some chalk from the stick using an X-Acto blade, and apply the powder with a brush. Some folks add water to the powder.
Personally, I would apply the rust color, then add a coat of semi-transparent black paint (a wash) over the entire rook to remove the sheen.
In all cases, I would practice on a hidden side first (e.g., a non-visible side that will sit against a wall), or on a spare piece. Since you built the roof from scratch, you might want to make a small piece of roof, and practice on that first. But you can always work on the model directly - just be prepared to start over if things don't look right.
Good luck!
Simon
I'm scratch building an N scale 2 stall roundhouse and just made the roof. I cut aluminum HVAC tape into sections and embossed these into a corrugated pattern. (ie Luke Towans spring technique). I shot the roof with Tamiya Flat lacquer to dull it down and so far I'm very happy with the real metal look. I want to take it to the next step and do some very modest weathering. I don't want layers of gray paint. The look I'm trying to achive is similar to the Woodland Scenics H&H Feed Mill. The look is mostly metal with some streaks of light rust and discoloration. I'm a newbie to weathering. How would you achieve this look? TIA.