Here's an update for June 19, 2024. Quote from Scale Coat's new owner:
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Are the paints available yet?
Update
The business that now owns Scale Coat is called:
Iron Horse Model Works.
If you visit Facebook, just type that name in the search bar. Their last post was on June 9th, so things seem to be looking up.
rrebell Yea, hated when Ambroid Pro-weld went off market but Weld-on 3 is almost the same.
Yea, hated when Ambroid Pro-weld went off market but Weld-on 3 is almost the same.
That bothered me for a while but it turned out well for me. I wound up buying a gallon of MEK and filling the Ambroid bottles that I had saved. Many years later I still have a lot of that gallon so I actually have saved some money.
Rick
ATLANTIC CENTRAL hbgatsf Why did Scalecoat and Floquil dissapear in the first place? I always thought they were banned because of the solvents. Something like the tree huggers were worried that if everyone opened a bottle at the same time it could spell the end of life on the planet. Scalecoat was originally made by Weaver Models who made O gauge trains. The owners retired, Bachmann bought the train line but did not want to be in the paint business. Minuteman Scale Models bought Scalecoat, but health issues and retirement forced that owner to stop production. At first he seemed reluctant to sell as if he thought he would made a comeback, but now it is in the hands of new ownership. So in the case of Scalecoat it had nothing to do with the corperate indifference that eliminated Floquil, Polly Scale and others. AND, there is no total ban on slovent based paints. There are restrictions on container size, some ingredents, etc for consumer products. There are retailing/marketing restrictions making it harder for retail customers to buy industrial grade solvent based paints. But the products are still being made for applications where they are still necessary. Sheldon
hbgatsf Why did Scalecoat and Floquil dissapear in the first place? I always thought they were banned because of the solvents. Something like the tree huggers were worried that if everyone opened a bottle at the same time it could spell the end of life on the planet.
Why did Scalecoat and Floquil dissapear in the first place?
I always thought they were banned because of the solvents. Something like the tree huggers were worried that if everyone opened a bottle at the same time it could spell the end of life on the planet.
Scalecoat was originally made by Weaver Models who made O gauge trains. The owners retired, Bachmann bought the train line but did not want to be in the paint business.
Minuteman Scale Models bought Scalecoat, but health issues and retirement forced that owner to stop production.
At first he seemed reluctant to sell as if he thought he would made a comeback, but now it is in the hands of new ownership.
So in the case of Scalecoat it had nothing to do with the corperate indifference that eliminated Floquil, Polly Scale and others.
AND, there is no total ban on slovent based paints. There are restrictions on container size, some ingredents, etc for consumer products. There are retailing/marketing restrictions making it harder for retail customers to buy industrial grade solvent based paints.
But the products are still being made for applications where they are still necessary.
Sheldon
Once again I learn something from this forum. I had the same impression (of a ban) for Tenax-7 and Ambroid Pro Weld, even though Micro Mark sells their "Same Stuff". I suspect there is a similar story?
Like many things in life, they got bought out and then the new company thought they were a bother and stopped production, goverment never seems to do anti-trust stuff on nich areas. Also sometimes markets die like original Floquil. Liked the stains but lets face it, that stuff was poison.
Rich,
it would be cool to see your Mainline cars. Could you consider posting a thread with photos?
richhotrain So far, I have only airbrushed with acrylics, but I could not agree with you more. Practice, practice, practice, and spray close and slow. I recently sprayed 12 Walthers Mainline passenger cars. In removing the roofs, I damaged one car, so I re-ordered one more new one and then practiced on the damaged car. Rich
So far, I have only airbrushed with acrylics, but I could not agree with you more. Practice, practice, practice, and spray close and slow. I recently sprayed 12 Walthers Mainline passenger cars. In removing the roofs, I damaged one car, so I re-ordered one more new one and then practiced on the damaged car.
Rich
AntonioFP45The gallon-can doesn't have much left in it as I've been using it for several years. H.E.T is real automotive lacquer thinner, not a "California-style" substitute formula. However, I plan on buying Scale Coat's thinner once I run out. I switched to this thinner only because the hobby stores in my area were out of SCII thinner, at the time. I experimented with the H.E.T and it worked. But I respectrfully suggest to modelers that it's best to use the paint manufacturer's recommended additives.
I switched to this thinner only because the hobby stores in my area were out of SCII thinner, at the time. I experimented with the H.E.T and it worked. But I respectrfully suggest to modelers that it's best to use the paint manufacturer's recommended additives.
Alton Junction
Hello Maxman,
Yes. The gallon-can doesn't have much left in it as I've been using it for several years. H.E.T is real automotive lacquer thinner, not a "California-style" substitute formula. However, I plan on buying Scale Coat's thinner once I run out.
maxman Are you using that HET 1501 stuff in lieu of lacquer thinner?
Are you using that HET 1501 stuff in lieu of lacquer thinner?
I have used various amounts of thinner when using Scalecoat II Paint, some require no thinner to 50/50 Thinner to paint. Seems best when the paint has the consistency of milk.
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
AntonioFP45 Hey guys, getting back on topic due to an email. A modeler on an online forum, who is an airbrush beginner, asked me about thinning Scale Coat II (old new-stock in good condition) stating that the 2/3 paint to 1/3 thinner yielded varying results. Enthusiastic but a bit frustrated. After some back & forth messaging, with photos, it turns out that he was spraying his mixes at too far a distance and too quickly, yielding a rough finish. Apparently he was spraying & stroking the airbrush like a rattlecan (I did the same when starting out). My suggestions: Decrease the distance, slow the stroke speed, and TAKE THE TIME to practice on discarded plastic materials or shells before spraying his models. Practice until you reach the comfortable "Sweet-spot zone"; whether it takes 1 ounce or a full 2oz bottle. It does pay off; especially with Scale Coat finishes.
Hey guys, getting back on topic due to an email. A modeler on an online forum, who is an airbrush beginner, asked me about thinning Scale Coat II (old new-stock in good condition) stating that the 2/3 paint to 1/3 thinner yielded varying results. Enthusiastic but a bit frustrated.
After some back & forth messaging, with photos, it turns out that he was spraying his mixes at too far a distance and too quickly, yielding a rough finish. Apparently he was spraying & stroking the airbrush like a rattlecan (I did the same when starting out).
My suggestions: Decrease the distance, slow the stroke speed, and TAKE THE TIME to practice on discarded plastic materials or shells before spraying his models. Practice until you reach the comfortable "Sweet-spot zone"; whether it takes 1 ounce or a full 2oz bottle. It does pay off; especially with Scale Coat finishes.
After some back & forth messaging, with photos, it turns out that he was spraying his mixes at too far a distance and too quickly yielding a rough finish. Apparently he was spraying & stroking the airbrush like a rattlecan (I did the same when starting out).
My suggestions: Decrease the distance from the surface, slow the stroke speed, and TAKE THE TIME to practice on discarded plastic materials or shells before spraying his models. Practice until you reach the comfortable "Sweet-spot zone"; whether it takes 1 ounce or a full 2oz bottle. It does pay off especially with Scale Coat finishes.
To provide ideas I shared the photos below, which have been posted on previous threads on this forum. Discarded plastic nut, tea, and coffee can lids are excellent paint practice pieces as are old CD's. All can likely be obtained for free from relatives, friends, or coworkers.
richhotrain I am a relative newbie to airbrushing, having only started with acrylics last November and December. I primed and painted a dozen Walthers Mainline passenger cars, using various colors of Tamiya acrylics. I got a lot of advice beforehand, and one piece of advice was to thoroughly clean the airbrush immediately after each and every spraying. I did that religiously by completely disassembling the airbrush each time and cleaning the parts with distilled water and airbrush cleaner. As a result, I never had a single problem. The notion of using hot water to clean the airbrush is an interesting one. Rich
I am a relative newbie to airbrushing, having only started with acrylics last November and December. I primed and painted a dozen Walthers Mainline passenger cars, using various colors of Tamiya acrylics.
I got a lot of advice beforehand, and one piece of advice was to thoroughly clean the airbrush immediately after each and every spraying. I did that religiously by completely disassembling the airbrush each time and cleaning the parts with distilled water and airbrush cleaner. As a result, I never had a single problem.
The notion of using hot water to clean the airbrush is an interesting one.
Simon
I second the hot water suggestion for acrylics. I've been doing that for years, for both my airbrush and my brushes. I used to wash with windex, but I don't like the ammonia smell. Hot water with a cleaning brush works just fine.
Forgive me for venturing off-topic but Peter's response caught my attention!
I had never considered using very hot water to rinse out an airbrush after the application of an acrylic. Sounds like a step worth trying.
Due to the very warm temperatures I paint in, my airbrush must be flushed out within minutes of applying an acrylic.
For my caboose project I'll boil some water in a cup, via a microwave oven, just before airbrushining the acrylic on to the shell. Upon finishing, I'll run the hot water through it. If successful this would be a money-saver since I could then save my lacquer thinner for just the solvent-based mixes.
HO-Velo DigitalGriffin polyscale I like Polyscale, but dreaded the airbrush cleaning until trying a Barbatos Rex tip: keeping a small thermos of approx. 190 degree hot water handy to flush out my gravity feed brush immediately after use, not a panacea, but makes for much easier cleaning. Regards, Peter
DigitalGriffin polyscale
I like Polyscale, but dreaded the airbrush cleaning until trying a Barbatos Rex tip: keeping a small thermos of approx. 190 degree hot water handy to flush out my gravity feed brush immediately after use, not a panacea, but makes for much easier cleaning. Regards, Peter
From Mainline Hobby Supply email received today:
Scalecoat Paint
Yes, we have been in contact with the new owners of Scalecoat Paint and once they get set up in their new location we will start carrying their line of paint once again.
So hopefully in the near future we will have it back in stock.
DigitalGriffinpolyscale
Hello Rich,
Certainly, I hope to start on an E-unit (SCL scheme) in the near future with Scale Coat II and will continue using it as foundation for metalizers.
But, sincerely, if you currently airbrush with acrylics then you're already ahead of the game! I spray, both acrylics and solvent based products and, imho, spraying solvent based formulas, such as Scale Coat, are a "cakewalk" compared to applying Polyscale, Tamiya, AK, and Vallejo.
As mentioned above, cleaning out an airbrush that has solvent based paint in it is also so easy. Unlike acrylics, if you leave solvent based paint inside of your airbrush overnight, it will still be simple to flush it out with lacquer thinner the next day. Do that with an acrylic and you may as well be asking for torture, LOL!
Not taking sides as, imho, just pointing out that there are significant pros and cons on both types of products.
I have a pair of Athearn wide-vision cabooses that I plan on paint stripping and refinishing to SCL's orange paint scheme. I have a bottle of Polyscale SCL Caboose Orange sitting on my shelf for the job. Purchased the last bottle from Hobby Town years back. Still in good condition!
richhotrain Sheldon and Antonio, you guys need to start a thread to provide a How-To in the use of Scalecoat II for those of us who airbrush but have never used Scalecoat II. Rich
Sheldon and Antonio, you guys need to start a thread to provide a How-To in the use of Scalecoat II for those of us who airbrush but have never used Scalecoat II.
It's always good to hear that there are people out there willing to start/invest in a business in our lines of interest. I wish them a lot of success, for the benefit of all.
For the record, I've been painting models since the 1980's and have enjoyed, both, acrylic and solvent based formulas. They have their pros and cons.
I'm estatic that Scale Coat is returning!
I've been quietly working with modelers that are interested in (and also are) metalizing their equipment with Alclad, Spaz Stix, Alsa, and other quality metalizers. If fewer steps are involved, they're more inclined to give-it-a-go .Instead of applying a primer (gray or black) coat, then following up with a high gloss clear coat to form the foundation for the metalizer, Scale Coat II provides that in one step. A hard, and (if thinned & applied patiently) smooth very high gloss finish. As I stated on another forum, Scale Coat II spoiled me rotten!
With metalizing, the smoother your foundation, the smoother and more realistic your final finish.
I think I bought a couple of rattle cans of Scalecoat Milwaukee Orange a while back. They were the only ones who made that. I hope it's still good. I have a couple of engines I still need to change the road colors on. They're already all black, so just the top of the hood is all I need. I don’t worry about the road number, just the basic color and maybe a road herald decal or two.
That will finally round out my Milwaukee diesel fleet.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'd never used Scalecoat. I liked Floquil, but it looks like I'll be giving it a try. thanks for the answers, Dan
DigitalGriffin ATLANTIC CENTRAL Why? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes. Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable The fumes, and the cleanup if you goof up was always a worry. And I don't even want to think of airbrush cleaning with solvents.And I remember an incident as a kid where I poured it down the bathroom sink and it did NOT want to come off the porcellin. My dad was unthrilled. But I'm happy for you guys that use them.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Why? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes. Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable
The fumes, and the cleanup if you goof up was always a worry. And I don't even want to think of airbrush cleaning with solvents.And I remember an incident as a kid where I poured it down the bathroom sink and it did NOT want to come off the porcellin. My dad was unthrilled. But I'm happy for you guys that use them.
I understand, but cleaning the airbrush is actually easier. Solvent paints take days or weeks to cure to the point where the thinner will not cut them.
So in most cases you can literally just run some clean solvent thru and you are good to go. Every so often a teardown will be in order.
The point is acrylics are plastic, they harden quickly and the process cannot be reversed. That has always been a problem for me, the short "open" time.
I'm not a "quick" worker with stuff like that.
But again, we all do what works for us.