I heard in another thread that Scalecoat paints are coming back. Is this true or just a rumor? If true, does anyone have a website to check out or know when the paints will be available?
There was some talk on Facebook a while back by a father/son team that they were in process of acquiring and bring back the Scalecoat line. Then they went silent on the topic.
So no one really knows. Could be it fell thru, could be it is just taking longer than expected.
If I had the time, I could be interested, I very much miss having Scalecoat. But right now I am committed to my current business for at least another year. After that I may be looking for a retirement business.
Sheldon
Lookup Scalecoat Paint on Facebook and read the posts. Only selling through Walthers at first, working on a website and may sell through hobby shops or direct in the future.
Rick Jesionowski
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Great news, I missed that recent update. Perfect timing as I am getting my new workshop and paint booth up and running and getting my new layout underway.
A question: Is Scalecoat a solvent based paint like Floquil was, or an acrylic? Dan
It is an improved (over Floquil) solvent based paint. Here is the Facebook announcement:
Jim
Southgate 2 A question: Is Scalecoat a solvent based paint like Floquil was, or an acrylic? Dan
Scalecoat is a solvent based lacquer/enamel that dries to a hard durable finish.
It comes in two slightly different formulas, Scalecoat I with is a high solvent laquer type product and Scalecoat II which is a plastic friendly enamel type product.
The use and nature of both are very similar with plastic compatibility being the main difference. Fact is Scalecoat I can be used on plastics in many cases, just depends on the exact plastic and the application method/primer, etc.
It is a paint with a longer "open" time than modern model acrylics and much easier to use.
Most of the colors come in a gloss finish, perfect for appling decals with the best result. And then it can be top coated with clear gloss or flat. Their Clear gloss and flat can be mixed to acheive any sheen you desire.
So for painting locomotives and rolling stock it requires considerably few steps, and few coats of product.
It is very durable to handling. It is very easy to clean from your airbrush.
No visible decal film, three step process - the best model paint ever.
So happy its coming back.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Southgate 2 A question: Is Scalecoat a solvent based paint like Floquil was, or an acrylic? Dan Scalecoat is a solvent based lacquer/enamel that dries to a hard durable finish. It comes in two slightly different formulas, Scalecoat I with is a high solvent laquer type product and Scalecoat II which is a plastic friendly enamel type product. The use and nature of both are very similar with plastic compatibility being the main difference. Fact is Scalecoat I can be used on plastics in many cases, just depends on the exact plastic and the application method/primer, etc. It is a paint with a longer "open" time than modern model acrylics and much easier to use. Most of the colors come in a gloss finish, perfect for appling decals with the best result. And then it can be top coated with clear gloss or flat. Their Clear gloss and flat can be mixed to acheive any sheen you desire. So for painting locomotives and rolling stock it requires considerably few steps, and few coats of product. It is very durable to handling. It is very easy to clean from your airbrush. No visible decal film, three step process - the best model paint ever. So happy its coming back. Sheldon
Sheldon, couldn't have said it better myself. Great Paint, use it 95% of the time. But there are a couple of colors that Floquil did better like PC Green.
Wow this is great news!
Enamals...I always feared using them. Not that I'm not grateful for more choices. It makes me happy to see. But I would kill for polyscale to come back.Apparently Factory Direct Trains has a supply also.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
DigitalGriffin Enamals...I always feared using them. Not that I'm not grateful for more choices. It makes me happy to see. But I would kill for polyscale to come back.Apparently Factory Direct Trains has a supply also.
Why? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes.
Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable.
But agreed, as acrylics go, Polyscale was great.
I work in construction, I am trained and informed about lead, asbestos, mold, radon and more. There is a whole lot of fear mongering, miss information and over reaction to all of it.
ATLANTIC CENTRALWhy? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes. Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable
DigitalGriffin ATLANTIC CENTRAL Why? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes. Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable The fumes, and the cleanup if you goof up was always a worry. And I don't even want to think of airbrush cleaning with solvents.And I remember an incident as a kid where I poured it down the bathroom sink and it did NOT want to come off the porcellin. My dad was unthrilled. But I'm happy for you guys that use them.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Why? A good paint booth and some common sense is all it takes. Easier to use, easier to clean up, way better bond to the substraight, more durable
The fumes, and the cleanup if you goof up was always a worry. And I don't even want to think of airbrush cleaning with solvents.And I remember an incident as a kid where I poured it down the bathroom sink and it did NOT want to come off the porcellin. My dad was unthrilled. But I'm happy for you guys that use them.
I understand, but cleaning the airbrush is actually easier. Solvent paints take days or weeks to cure to the point where the thinner will not cut them.
So in most cases you can literally just run some clean solvent thru and you are good to go. Every so often a teardown will be in order.
The point is acrylics are plastic, they harden quickly and the process cannot be reversed. That has always been a problem for me, the short "open" time.
I'm not a "quick" worker with stuff like that.
But again, we all do what works for us.
I'd never used Scalecoat. I liked Floquil, but it looks like I'll be giving it a try. thanks for the answers, Dan
I think I bought a couple of rattle cans of Scalecoat Milwaukee Orange a while back. They were the only ones who made that. I hope it's still good. I have a couple of engines I still need to change the road colors on. They're already all black, so just the top of the hood is all I need. I don’t worry about the road number, just the basic color and maybe a road herald decal or two.
That will finally round out my Milwaukee diesel fleet.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
For the record, I've been painting models since the 1980's and have enjoyed, both, acrylic and solvent based formulas. They have their pros and cons.
I'm estatic that Scale Coat is returning!
I've been quietly working with modelers that are interested in (and also are) metalizing their equipment with Alclad, Spaz Stix, Alsa, and other quality metalizers. If fewer steps are involved, they're more inclined to give-it-a-go .Instead of applying a primer (gray or black) coat, then following up with a high gloss clear coat to form the foundation for the metalizer, Scale Coat II provides that in one step. A hard, and (if thinned & applied patiently) smooth very high gloss finish. As I stated on another forum, Scale Coat II spoiled me rotten!
With metalizing, the smoother your foundation, the smoother and more realistic your final finish.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
Sheldon and Antonio, you guys need to start a thread to provide a How-To in the use of Scalecoat II for those of us who airbrush but have never used Scalecoat II.
Rich
Alton Junction
It's always good to hear that there are people out there willing to start/invest in a business in our lines of interest. I wish them a lot of success, for the benefit of all.
Simon
Hello Rich,
Certainly, I hope to start on an E-unit (SCL scheme) in the near future with Scale Coat II and will continue using it as foundation for metalizers.
But, sincerely, if you currently airbrush with acrylics then you're already ahead of the game! I spray, both acrylics and solvent based products and, imho, spraying solvent based formulas, such as Scale Coat, are a "cakewalk" compared to applying Polyscale, Tamiya, AK, and Vallejo.
As mentioned above, cleaning out an airbrush that has solvent based paint in it is also so easy. Unlike acrylics, if you leave solvent based paint inside of your airbrush overnight, it will still be simple to flush it out with lacquer thinner the next day. Do that with an acrylic and you may as well be asking for torture, LOL!
Not taking sides as, imho, just pointing out that there are significant pros and cons on both types of products.
I have a pair of Athearn wide-vision cabooses that I plan on paint stripping and refinishing to SCL's orange paint scheme. I have a bottle of Polyscale SCL Caboose Orange sitting on my shelf for the job. Purchased the last bottle from Hobby Town years back. Still in good condition!
richhotrain Sheldon and Antonio, you guys need to start a thread to provide a How-To in the use of Scalecoat II for those of us who airbrush but have never used Scalecoat II. Rich
DigitalGriffinpolyscale
I like Polyscale, but dreaded the airbrush cleaning until trying a Barbatos Rex tip: keeping a small thermos of approx. 190 degree hot water handy to flush out my gravity feed brush immediately after use, not a panacea, but makes for much easier cleaning. Regards, Peter