Hi all,I'll ask my question first, because my tale is a long'n and many of you probably have neither time nor inclination to sit through it.What recent gems have you found, either in a swap meet or online, or at your LHS, or while helping an older neighbor clean out her deceased husband's train room?For steam, I have my old Roundhouse Atlantic -- which I love because it's my old Atlantic -- but for one thing it's noisy and for another, I have a lot of freight I want to move and I recently learned that the 4-4-2 was designed to move passenger trains because of its terrifying speed; it wasn't built for powering freight. I had already bought a beautiful Great Northern 2-8-0, which is absolutely a freight engine, but it's DCC and after about a week I realized that there isn't much about DCC that I need or want. So I've had a hankering to add another DC steamer to my fleet.For two reasons -- 1) the cost of new steam and 2) a discussion recently about the lack of smaller steam locos being produced by manufacturers, I have been studying up on older steam offerings, particularly Mantuas and Mehanos. The trick with Mehanos, of course, is flange size, since my rail is Code 83. I came to understand that if I purchased a LATER Mehano, it was more likely to have flanges that would get along with my track. But also, I kept hearing how the EARLY Mehanos, made in Slovenia, were so smooth and quiet. And how early or late, they usually lacked satisfying detail. Add to this complexity the fact that these locos might come under the brand of IHC or AHM, and might be made in Slovenia (good) or elsewhere (less good) and it was beginning to make my head spin. On top of it all, even a good deal online meant $15 or $20 of shipping costs added to the price of a 30-year old loco of dubious provenance whose wheels might bounce along my ties when I got it out of the box.Welp. Yesterday I was at a swap meet looking, as usual, for an RS-1 in the SP&S as-delivered oxide-red-top scheme (everybody's seen one, nobody had one) and after scouring the room in vain, I began to relax and look at what WAS there, even stuff I wasn't really interested in. I was perusing a long table chock full of American Flyer stuff, when I found several purple IHC boxes -- an indicator of potential treasure -- with HO locos in them. The guy saw me pause and said "half off everthing there". From the bottom of a pile of boxes I unearthed a Northern Pacific 2-8-0. The box said Canadian National (uh-oh). I considered, what might happen if I got it home and the flanges were too large. They did not LOOK terribly large, but micrometers mattered in this case. Still, for the price he was asking, it would have been worth buying the loco to use as a hammer.The vendor encouraged me to take the thing over to the test track by the front entrance, and quickly turned away to help several of the American Flyer enthusiasts that were mobbing his tables. (I could have walked out the door with it -- the trusting nature of model railroad vendors brings tears to my eyes). The engine ran beautifully and was absolutely silent. On the bottom I could see "Made In Slovenia". But the test track was Code 100. I took the loco back and asked if the guy would hold if for me while I tried to find some Code 83 rail -- he was glad to. I spent twenty minutes asking vendors around the room if they had any code 83 rail, even one piece, that I could borrow or buy, when finally one of the vendors cheerfully threw a bag of 9" track pieces at me for two bucks, and threw in another bag of shorter pieces for free so that I could have some rail joiners to go with them. I went back to the AF seller, and we put the loco on two joined pieces of Code 83 rail and... no contact between the flanges and the ties. A slow smile spread across my face and widened so wide that the back of my head fell off. If you're waiting for the Murphy's Law moment, there wasn't one. I took my Slovenia-made Mehano in its purple IHC Canadian National box home and hooked up a freight to it. I haven't learned to detail and weather my engines yet -- that's "down the line" a ways -- but for a quiet, smooth Mehano Connie, I think it looks pretty good already. Here it is idling next to my still-unpainted-after-45-years Atlantic. (For full size, click open, then close completely and click open again).
What's YOUR story?
-Matt
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
I already posted these photos in a couple of other threads today but I guess I'll post them here, as well.
I picked up an undecorated PSC NYC F-12e 4-6-0 off eBay last week from a gentleman who resides in an area of New England where my wife & I LOVE visiting & vacationing. In fact, he gave me his email & phone number to contact him the next time we were in the area.
There is very little overall tarnish on the locomotive and the detailing of the backhead is absolutely amazing. I haven't run it yet but fully expect it to operate as smoothly as my PSC 0-8-0 switcher. Once I isolate the motor brushes, I'll install a decoder & speaker in the boiler, as well as LED lighting in the front & rear headlamps.
Doing a little research prior to purchasing the above, I found out the F-12 4-6-0s were "super-heated" and used in dual-service on the NYC. That will make it a very useful addition to my NYC locomotive roster. The 5K gal tender, however, means that it won't be making long excursions - freight or passenger.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Tom, that's a beaut! Do you paint something like that or does that decrease its value?
I always learn something new on these forums. I would never have thought about buying a locomotive to use as a hammer, even at a bargain price!
Great out-of-the-box thinking, Matt!
I'm glad you found a loco you wanted. Was that the Rocky Mountain train show in Denver yesterday? I was there too. Didn't find any of the locos I was looking for, but I did pick up some other stuff I needed (wanted).
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
crossthedogDo you paint something like that or does that decrease its value?
That depends....if you want it as a display, it might be best to leave it unpainted. If you want it on your layout, a well-done paint job will make it fit-in visually, and could prove to make it more valuable than the unpainted version.On the other hand, a poorly-done paint job will not only look bad, but usually also makes it less valuable.
If I were looking for that locomotive, I'd likely opt for the crummy paint job version, as it would save me a bundle - it's a very simple procedure to strip the paint off, in order to repaint it properly.
I paint all of my own locomotives and have done dozens for others, too.
Your Mehano locomotive looks pretty good, and the flanges don't seem to be overly deep.
Quite a few years ago, I mail-ordered a pair of IHC Moguls from Hobbies For Men, in Beacon, New York.At fifteen bucks apiece, they weren't bad, although they did have fairly deep flanges. To address that, I removed the body shell, then clipped leads from my shop transformer to the loco's motor. Holding the loco upright, with the drivers turning at a fairly good rate, I brought the face of a running cut-off disc, in a motor tool, to bear lightly against each driver in-turn, each for just a few seconds, so as to not overheat the driver rims, as the spoked centre of the drivers were plastic.In almost no time at all, the wheel flanges were no longer overly deep.This process didn't work on the unpowered lead truck or the tender wheels, either, but it was easy to simply replace those with more suitable wheelsets.
I've made a few changes on that loco (the other one went to a friend) and it's a decent runner and a surprisingly capable puller, due to some added (and properly-balanced) weight...
Wayne
Matt,
I presume if it's professionally painted well then the value would likely go up.
I would like to paint the 4-6-0 eventually but I don't know when that will be. My first priority is to convert it to DCC, as I fully expect it to "pull it's weight" in my roster. I don't purchase brass to maintain it's market value; I purchase it to operate it.
That's a nice-looking 10 Wheeler, Tom, and the backhead detail is quite impressive. I was surprised to see the two firebox doors, though, as it was my thought that they were used mostly (or only) on Wooten fireboxes. I wonder if there would have been two firemen -if it were in the days of a head-end brakeman, that would have been a crowded cab.
crossthedogWhat recent gems have you found, either in a swap meet or online, or at your LHS, or while helping an older neighbor clean out her deceased husband's train room?
I shared this picture a few months ago.
While going through TONS of old photographs, I found this picture of old N scale STRATTON AND GILLETTE equipment from when I was in High School 40 years ago!
This picture really is a treasure to me.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson (probably)
I wish I had pictures of all the crazy kit-bashes and modifications I made back then.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
A great place to hide a super capacitor keep alive.
PruittWas that the Rocky Mountain train show in Denver yesterday?
SeeYou190I found this picture of old N scale STRATTON AND GILLETTE equipment from when I was in High School 40 years ago!
doctorwayneYour Mehano locomotive looks pretty good, and the flanges don't seem to be overly deep. Quite a few years ago, I mail-ordered a pair of IHC Moguls from Hobbies For Men, in Beacon, New York. At fifteen bucks apiece, they weren't bad, although they did have fairly deep flanges. To address that, I removed the body shell, then clipped leads from my shop transformer to the loco's motor. Holding the loco upright, with the drivers turning at a fairly good rate, I brought the face of a running cut-off disc, in a motor tool, to bear lightly against each driver in-turn, each for just a few seconds, so as to not overheat the driver rims, as the spoked centre of the drivers were plastic. In almost no time at all, the wheel flanges were no longer overly deep.
crossthedogKevin, do you mean to say you invented this railroad when you were basically in short pants and have stuck with it for all those years since? That's awesome!
Yes.
The STRATTON AND GILLETTE was created in 1982. It has switched territory four times, scale once, and era twice, but the roadname remains the same.
I still have some of the original decals from Rail Graphics in 1982!
I was fortunate to be able to go to two train shows in a week. I would not say I got one specific treasure but did get some good deals. I picked up several auto kits inexpensively at the Greensboro train show including a Jordan a concor and some national motor company Packards plus other goodies. At hickory I got an SP passenger set for 20 which was the bargain of the whole lot. I also picked up a kanotex tank car I had been hunting for as my grandfather had owned a gas station of a related company. I am a bargain hunter by nature and do love to find deals.
Hello All,
I did indeed go to the Rocky Mountain Train Show on Saturday.
They moved the event from the now-defunct Denver Mart event space to the National Western Complex- -approximately tripled in size.
The crowd on Saturday was huge but negotiating the exhibit halls was manageable.
At the NMRA booth, I found an Athearn Bay Window Caboose custom decorated for the Rock Mountain Region with the livery "Rails Along The Rio Grande, Jun 6-9, 2013 (RRGX 2013)."
It was the last one they had and I picked it up for $15.00.
I also got a random assortment of truss girders and, bridge decking for $5.00.
As usual, the Kadee people were there and I got to talk to them in person, and a length, about a recent spate of whisker failures I have been experiencing with their couplers.
True to form they listen, recalled my sending back over 15 couplers with whisker failure, and talked about some improvements they have made in the crimping of the whiskers to the coupler shanks.
It was great to talk directly to the manufacturer and have them want to address the quality of their products.
Even though talking with the Kadee folks was not a "great find" as might be defined.
I walked away from my encounter with them, satisfied that I actually got to aid in the continued success of a great product by giving them direct and accurate feedback about some issues I have encountered.
All in all, it was a fantastic show and by the size of the crowd, I have renewed hope for the future of this great hobby.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
tstage Matt, I presume if it's professionally painted well then the value would likely go up. I would like to paint the 4-6-0 eventually but I don't know when that will be. My first priority is to convert it to DCC, as I fully expect it to "pull it's weight" in my roster. I don't purchase brass to maintain it's market value; I purchase it to operate it. Tom
I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself.
As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
Looking at the box, I'm guessing it's at least 50 years old.
jjdamnit Hello All, I did indeed go to the Rocky Mountain Train Show on Saturday. They moved the event from the now-defunct Denver Mart event space to the National Western Complex- -approximately tripled in size. The crowd on Saturday was huge but negotiating the exhibit halls was manageable. At the NMRA booth, I found an Athearn Bay Window Caboose custom decorated for the Rock Mountain Region with the livery "Rails Along The Rio Grande, Jun 6-9, 2013 (RRGX 2013)." It was the last one they had and I picked it up for $15.00. I also got a random assortment of truss girders and, bridge decking for $5.00. As usual, the Kadee people were there and I got to talk to them in person, and a length, about a recent spate of whisker failures I have been experiencing with their couplers. True to form they listen, recalled my sending back over 15 couplers with whisker failure, and talked about some improvements they have made in the crimping of the whiskers to the coupler shanks. It was great to talk directly to the manufacturer and have them want to address the quality of their products. Even though talking with the Kadee folks was not a "great find" as might be defined. I walked away from my encounter with them, satisfied that I actually got to aid in the continued success of a great product by giving them direct and accurate feedback about some issues I have encountered. All in all, it was a fantastic show and by the size of the crowd, I have renewed hope for the future of this great hobby. Hope this helps.
I'm surprised you've been having trouble with your KD whiskers since I have been using them since they came out and have yet to have a problem with the whiskers. I wonder if they had a bad production run.
John-NYBWI'm surprised you've been having trouble with your KD whiskers since I have been using them since they came out and have yet to have a problem with the whiskers. I wonder if they had a bad production run.
That seems to be the response from everyone, including the Kadee folks.
Not to get... of this post, but...
The current president of Kadee, whom I spoke to at length, did remember my shipment back to them of the broken whisker couplers.
Some were both whiskers failing but most were of one whisker failing; on both the #148; center-set medium shank and the #156; center-set long shank.
The opinion of the production manager at Kadee, after receiving the faulty couplers, was that these failures were caused by electrical arcing due to the trip pin transmitting electrical current from the track to the metal frames of the locomotives in question thus weakening the whisker springs leading to failures.
These failures had occurred on HO scale Bachmann GP40s.
I explained to the folks at the booth that on these particular locomotives I had removed the OEM coupler mounting pin on the plastic shells.
Filed the coupler pocket for clearance and installed the couplers in the Kadee #262 narrow coupler box and used the nylon 2-56 screws, thus completely electrically isolating the couplers from the frame.
When I sent in the failed couplers there was a discussion on the production techniques of these particular couplers and how the whiskers were manually pressed into the shanks.
Apparently, other whiskers are pressed into the shanks using an automated process.
This confirmed my suspicion that it was a production fault and not a fault with the components being used.
As I type this I have three (3) #156 couplers on my bench with whisker failures- -all on the same side of the shank.
Yes, I have been told by many that this is an anomaly and that I should not be experiencing these failures.
The great thing about meeting the Kadee folks in person was to put a face to a name and discuss possible production solutions to my unique failures.
My satisfaction came not because I highlighted a failure with their products, but because the manufacturer took time to listen and care about the end-user and not discount these occurrences as random happenings.
jjdamnitThis confirmed my suspicion that it was a production fault and not a fault with the components being used.
So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker is attached?
maxmanSo would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached?
If it's a fault in the production process then the problem should be addressed at the production level and not as an aftermarket "fix" initiated by the consumer.
John-NYBWI have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
Glad to hear your old 2-6-6-2 still runs nicely in DC. The price of DCC has really limited my interest in it. Since I took the trouble to learn all that wiring to create 10 power blocks for my layout, I can run multiple locos at a time in DC (if I want, but it's mainly just me so this is not a huge need), and while the sound is a real delight the first few times, after a while my ears hurt and I'm just as happy to listen to the clackety. One thing I do like about the two DCC locos I own, the forward and reverse lights are nice and bright. But really I have the most fun running in DC. If I had a brass loco, like Tom I would want to operate it. I hope you get it painted someday.
Those camelbacks sure are funny lookin' fellers. Nice find!
jjdamnit Hello All, maxman So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached? If it's a fault in the production process then the problem should be addressed at the production level and not as an aftermarket "fix" initiated by the consumer. Hope this helps.
maxman So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached?
I agree completely. With what other product would a consumer be expected to fix an item that is brand new. Faulty merchandise should be returned.
Every company is at sometime going to produce a sub-standard product. I judge companies by they way they respond when that happens. It sounds like Kadee is acting in good faith to remedy this situation. Knowing the quality of their products over the years, this does not surprise me.
crossthedog John-NYBW I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week. Glad to hear your old 2-6-6-2 still runs nicely in DC. The price of DCC has really limited my interest in it. Since I took the trouble to learn all that wiring to create 10 power blocks for my layout, I can run multiple locos at a time in DC (if I want, but it's mainly just me so this is not a huge need), and while the sound is a real delight the first few times, after a while my ears hurt and I'm just as happy to listen to the clackety. One thing I do like about the two DCC locos I own, the forward and reverse lights are nice and bright. But really I have the most fun running in DC. If I had a brass loco, like Tom I would want to operate it. I hope you get it painted someday.
John-NYBW I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
Given the size of my layout, all the way around the walls of my basement with a center peninsula and the fact I am loan wolf operator, I just decided from the start that DCC was the only way to make it practical. I know large layouts were run before there was DCC but almost all the ones I remember were either club layouts or were operated by a group. Being a lone wolf, I wouldn't want to be constantly flipping block switches to the appropriate throttle. Using DCC and wireless throttles, I can operate a train on any part of the layout I want simply by entering the address of the appropriate loco. I built a small board that holds two wireless throttles, one eastbound and one westbound as well as the car cards for two different trains.
I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? I remember many years ago seeing a modular layout at a train show and the operators would unplug and plug their throttles into ports around the layout as they moved with their trains. Is that still the way it's done or are you untethered.
Those camelbacks sure are funny lookin' fellers. Nice find! -Matt
I first saw the camelbacks while researching the New York, Ontario, and Western which was one of the inspirations for my freelanced railroad. I knew I wanted at least one on my roster.
John-NYBWForgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
Kato makes an adapter for their DC throttle that can be operated with a cell phone.
As far as I know, that is all that is currently in production.
John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? I remember many years ago seeing a modular layout at a train show and the operators would unplug and plug their throttles into ports around the layout as they moved with their trains. Is that still the way it's done or are you untethered. -Matt
The only wireless system in DC that I had ever heard about was an infrared system like a TV remote is. It was made by Catnip Enterprises. Pretty uncommon. The walk-around wired DC throttles were rare enough even. Troller made a couple of wired models and MRC made one to go specifically with one of their units. To make the troller units walk-around is even worse. I would up getting some oddball plugs from a dealer on ebay to do it. I still run my narrow gauge with walk-around DC whereas my standard is DCC.
I always have used 4 pin microphone plugs for my Troller Walk Around throttles with great success.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
They only plug in one way, and screw down to prevent accidental disconnections.
John-NYBWI was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
John,
There is currently a thread about wireless DC throttles on the Electronics & DCC forum that might be of help:
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/291833.aspx
You may want to continue with the conversation there...
tstage John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? John, There is currently a thread about wireless DC throttles on the Electronics & DCC forum that might be of help: https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/291833.aspx You may want to continue with the conversation there... Tom
John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
I just read through that thread. It seems most of the DC guys are using plug in throttles although Sheldon seems to have a wireless system. It pretty much confirms I made the right choice going with DCC.
I'm not trying to start an argument about whether DC or DCC is the better system. I'm just saying DCC was the right choice for my situation.
On my previous layout, I had MRC's earliest power pack with tethered throttle and I think I had a Troller wired throttle before that. It was sufficient for the size layout I had then which I could operate from a central location with a long tethered throttle. I never did install plug in ports. My current layout requires walk around capability.
@John, I'm taking off. Lock up here when you're done, eh?