Does the box have a blue and yellow paper label?
My father bought one of these in the early 1960s. I thought it was so terrifically valuable that I never dared take it out of its box... then my son got hold of it while he was a baby and demolished it. Glad to see one running!
If I remember correctly (from a couple of threads here) John English or someone like him had a better-made version of this locomotive (for example the rods were cast with detail instead of stamped or coined) and I am planning to repair mine with 'similar' detail...
John-NYBWI just read through that thread. It seems most of the DC guys are using plug in throttles although Sheldon seems to have a wireless system. It pretty much confirms I made the right choice going with DCC.
Yeah, my Stapleton PWM throttle runs off 'phone-jack plug-ins....
There are six of them (basically two in each aisle), but I could easily use just three, as the train will continue to run even when the cord is unplugged, as I walk to the next plug-in. I use a 30' springy-type 'phone cord...
John-NYBWI'm not trying to start an argument about whether DC or DCC is the better system. I'm just saying DCC was the right choice for my situation.
You're right, John, each of us choose that which best suits our needs. I did some reading on DCC and didn't see any advantage over DC, at least for my needs.
For years, (but not the last couple of years) we have a "layout tour" where you buy a $5.00 booklet that gives you directions to the homes of modellers willing to let you visit their layouts. The layouts range from plywood pacifics, to works of art suitable for even a museum, and in scales from Z to O.During those tours, I usually hit at least a couple dozen if accompanied by a friend, and, if touring alone, might get to see 30 or more. Along the way there were lots of older DC layouts, and also a surprising amount of not-quite-as-old ones that had been converted to DCC. There's also a fairly large club layout on the tour, all DCC and most of it pretty-well "finished", representing parts of my hometown (Hamilton, Ontario), and also nearby communities.The layouts that were fairly large made up the majority of DCC layouts, as most seemed to have multiple operators. The multiple trains running on those were interesting to watch, but I didn't care for the sound of the steamers...it didn't seem anywhere near what I had heard as a child, with real railroads nearby in the various locales where we had lived when I was a pre-teen.The diesels, however, did sound like the real ones, and I found it easier to enjoy.
I would consider my own layout to be a "medium" size (I've never measured the length of the mainline, which makes a circuit of the layout room, plus a partial upper level which would be close to the same length, not including industrial sidings, double track (through each town) and five staging yards.
I am the sole operator (although I do let visitors run a train if they wish to do so) and have no interest in running more than one train at a time (trains travelling to the partial upper level often have multiple locomotives, though, due to a long (45'-or-so) twisting grade of just under 3%.
For me, DC gives me everything that interests me, while the sounds of steam in my memory fill in that function. My tethered throttle will easily run over a dozen locos at at the same time, but that was usually a little game that I played with my grandkids when they were young and came to visit.
While I admire the work of the many who allowed us to visit, and also of those here who share the photos of their layouts, I have my own "druthers", which include no sound, no nighttime operations, and no more than one train running at any given time. The simplicity of DC suits the simplicity of my needs perfectly.
Wayne
SeeYou190 I always have used 4 pin microphone plugs for my Troller Walk Around throttles with great success. -Photograph by Kevin Parson They only plug in one way, and screw down to prevent accidental disconnections. -Kevin
I always have used 4 pin microphone plugs for my Troller Walk Around throttles with great success.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
They only plug in one way, and screw down to prevent accidental disconnections.
-Kevin
Seen those used before- When I bought a troller for use on the narrow gauge the end had what I think seems to be the perfect connector for these- It is called a 4 pin Cinch Jones. These can only be put in one way and have about the same tension for removal and insertion as a grounded electrical plug.
@John, I'm taking off. Lock up here when you're done, eh?
Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.
On my previous layout, I had MRC's earliest power pack with tethered throttle and I think I had a Troller wired throttle before that. It was sufficient for the size layout I had then which I could operate from a central location with a long tethered throttle. I never did install plug in ports. My current layout requires walk around capability.
tstage John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? John, There is currently a thread about wireless DC throttles on the Electronics & DCC forum that might be of help: https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/291833.aspx You may want to continue with the conversation there... Tom
John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
John,
There is currently a thread about wireless DC throttles on the Electronics & DCC forum that might be of help:
https://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/291833.aspx
You may want to continue with the conversation there...
Tom
I just read through that thread. It seems most of the DC guys are using plug in throttles although Sheldon seems to have a wireless system. It pretty much confirms I made the right choice going with DCC.
I'm not trying to start an argument about whether DC or DCC is the better system. I'm just saying DCC was the right choice for my situation.
John-NYBWI was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Living the dream.
John-NYBW I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? I remember many years ago seeing a modular layout at a train show and the operators would unplug and plug their throttles into ports around the layout as they moved with their trains. Is that still the way it's done or are you untethered. -Matt
I was going to start a thread to ask this question but I'll do it here instead. Forgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC? I remember many years ago seeing a modular layout at a train show and the operators would unplug and plug their throttles into ports around the layout as they moved with their trains. Is that still the way it's done or are you untethered.
-Matt
The only wireless system in DC that I had ever heard about was an infrared system like a TV remote is. It was made by Catnip Enterprises. Pretty uncommon. The walk-around wired DC throttles were rare enough even. Troller made a couple of wired models and MRC made one to go specifically with one of their units. To make the troller units walk-around is even worse. I would up getting some oddball plugs from a dealer on ebay to do it. I still run my narrow gauge with walk-around DC whereas my standard is DCC.
John-NYBWForgive my ignorance but are wireless throttles available for DC?
Kato makes an adapter for their DC throttle that can be operated with a cell phone.
As far as I know, that is all that is currently in production.
crossthedog John-NYBW I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week. Glad to hear your old 2-6-6-2 still runs nicely in DC. The price of DCC has really limited my interest in it. Since I took the trouble to learn all that wiring to create 10 power blocks for my layout, I can run multiple locos at a time in DC (if I want, but it's mainly just me so this is not a huge need), and while the sound is a real delight the first few times, after a while my ears hurt and I'm just as happy to listen to the clackety. One thing I do like about the two DCC locos I own, the forward and reverse lights are nice and bright. But really I have the most fun running in DC. If I had a brass loco, like Tom I would want to operate it. I hope you get it painted someday.
John-NYBW I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
Glad to hear your old 2-6-6-2 still runs nicely in DC. The price of DCC has really limited my interest in it. Since I took the trouble to learn all that wiring to create 10 power blocks for my layout, I can run multiple locos at a time in DC (if I want, but it's mainly just me so this is not a huge need), and while the sound is a real delight the first few times, after a while my ears hurt and I'm just as happy to listen to the clackety. One thing I do like about the two DCC locos I own, the forward and reverse lights are nice and bright. But really I have the most fun running in DC. If I had a brass loco, like Tom I would want to operate it. I hope you get it painted someday.
Given the size of my layout, all the way around the walls of my basement with a center peninsula and the fact I am loan wolf operator, I just decided from the start that DCC was the only way to make it practical. I know large layouts were run before there was DCC but almost all the ones I remember were either club layouts or were operated by a group. Being a lone wolf, I wouldn't want to be constantly flipping block switches to the appropriate throttle. Using DCC and wireless throttles, I can operate a train on any part of the layout I want simply by entering the address of the appropriate loco. I built a small board that holds two wireless throttles, one eastbound and one westbound as well as the car cards for two different trains.
Those camelbacks sure are funny lookin' fellers. Nice find! -Matt
Those camelbacks sure are funny lookin' fellers. Nice find!
I first saw the camelbacks while researching the New York, Ontario, and Western which was one of the inspirations for my freelanced railroad. I knew I wanted at least one on my roster.
jjdamnit Hello All, maxman So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached? If it's a fault in the production process then the problem should be addressed at the production level and not as an aftermarket "fix" initiated by the consumer. Hope this helps.
Hello All,
maxman So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached?
If it's a fault in the production process then the problem should be addressed at the production level and not as an aftermarket "fix" initiated by the consumer.
Hope this helps.
I agree completely. With what other product would a consumer be expected to fix an item that is brand new. Faulty merchandise should be returned.
Every company is at sometime going to produce a sub-standard product. I judge companies by they way they respond when that happens. It sounds like Kadee is acting in good faith to remedy this situation. Knowing the quality of their products over the years, this does not surprise me.
John-NYBWI have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself. As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
maxmanSo would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker (sic) is attached?
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
jjdamnitThis confirmed my suspicion that it was a production fault and not a fault with the components being used.
So would it be worthwhile to add a little CA in the area where the wisker is attached?
John-NYBWI'm surprised you've been having trouble with your KD whiskers since I have been using them since they came out and have yet to have a problem with the whiskers. I wonder if they had a bad production run.
That seems to be the response from everyone, including the Kadee folks.
Not to get... of this post, but...
The current president of Kadee, whom I spoke to at length, did remember my shipment back to them of the broken whisker couplers.
Some were both whiskers failing but most were of one whisker failing; on both the #148; center-set medium shank and the #156; center-set long shank.
The opinion of the production manager at Kadee, after receiving the faulty couplers, was that these failures were caused by electrical arcing due to the trip pin transmitting electrical current from the track to the metal frames of the locomotives in question thus weakening the whisker springs leading to failures.
These failures had occurred on HO scale Bachmann GP40s.
I explained to the folks at the booth that on these particular locomotives I had removed the OEM coupler mounting pin on the plastic shells.
Filed the coupler pocket for clearance and installed the couplers in the Kadee #262 narrow coupler box and used the nylon 2-56 screws, thus completely electrically isolating the couplers from the frame.
When I sent in the failed couplers there was a discussion on the production techniques of these particular couplers and how the whiskers were manually pressed into the shanks.
Apparently, other whiskers are pressed into the shanks using an automated process.
This confirmed my suspicion that it was a production fault and not a fault with the components being used.
As I type this I have three (3) #156 couplers on my bench with whisker failures- -all on the same side of the shank.
Yes, I have been told by many that this is an anomaly and that I should not be experiencing these failures.
The great thing about meeting the Kadee folks in person was to put a face to a name and discuss possible production solutions to my unique failures.
My satisfaction came not because I highlighted a failure with their products, but because the manufacturer took time to listen and care about the end-user and not discount these occurrences as random happenings.
jjdamnit Hello All, I did indeed go to the Rocky Mountain Train Show on Saturday. They moved the event from the now-defunct Denver Mart event space to the National Western Complex- -approximately tripled in size. The crowd on Saturday was huge but negotiating the exhibit halls was manageable. At the NMRA booth, I found an Athearn Bay Window Caboose custom decorated for the Rock Mountain Region with the livery "Rails Along The Rio Grande, Jun 6-9, 2013 (RRGX 2013)." It was the last one they had and I picked it up for $15.00. I also got a random assortment of truss girders and, bridge decking for $5.00. As usual, the Kadee people were there and I got to talk to them in person, and a length, about a recent spate of whisker failures I have been experiencing with their couplers. True to form they listen, recalled my sending back over 15 couplers with whisker failure, and talked about some improvements they have made in the crimping of the whiskers to the coupler shanks. It was great to talk directly to the manufacturer and have them want to address the quality of their products. Even though talking with the Kadee folks was not a "great find" as might be defined. I walked away from my encounter with them, satisfied that I actually got to aid in the continued success of a great product by giving them direct and accurate feedback about some issues I have encountered. All in all, it was a fantastic show and by the size of the crowd, I have renewed hope for the future of this great hobby. Hope this helps.
I did indeed go to the Rocky Mountain Train Show on Saturday.
They moved the event from the now-defunct Denver Mart event space to the National Western Complex- -approximately tripled in size.
The crowd on Saturday was huge but negotiating the exhibit halls was manageable.
At the NMRA booth, I found an Athearn Bay Window Caboose custom decorated for the Rock Mountain Region with the livery "Rails Along The Rio Grande, Jun 6-9, 2013 (RRGX 2013)."
It was the last one they had and I picked it up for $15.00.
I also got a random assortment of truss girders and, bridge decking for $5.00.
As usual, the Kadee people were there and I got to talk to them in person, and a length, about a recent spate of whisker failures I have been experiencing with their couplers.
True to form they listen, recalled my sending back over 15 couplers with whisker failure, and talked about some improvements they have made in the crimping of the whiskers to the coupler shanks.
It was great to talk directly to the manufacturer and have them want to address the quality of their products.
Even though talking with the Kadee folks was not a "great find" as might be defined.
I walked away from my encounter with them, satisfied that I actually got to aid in the continued success of a great product by giving them direct and accurate feedback about some issues I have encountered.
All in all, it was a fantastic show and by the size of the crowd, I have renewed hope for the future of this great hobby.
I'm surprised you've been having trouble with your KD whiskers since I have been using them since they came out and have yet to have a problem with the whiskers. I wonder if they had a bad production run.
tstage Matt, I presume if it's professionally painted well then the value would likely go up. I would like to paint the 4-6-0 eventually but I don't know when that will be. My first priority is to convert it to DCC, as I fully expect it to "pull it's weight" in my roster. I don't purchase brass to maintain it's market value; I purchase it to operate it. Tom
Matt,
I presume if it's professionally painted well then the value would likely go up.
I would like to paint the 4-6-0 eventually but I don't know when that will be. My first priority is to convert it to DCC, as I fully expect it to "pull it's weight" in my roster. I don't purchase brass to maintain it's market value; I purchase it to operate it.
I have one unpainted brass loco, a 2-6-6-2, that has largely remained in a box in the 40 years since I bought it at an estate sale. I looked into having it professionally painted and converted to DCC with sound but the prices that were quoted were more than what the loco would be worth for resale. I'd like to paint it and convert it to DCC but I don't want to spend the price of a new loco to get it done. I had it out a couple month ago and it still runs well in DC mode. It will have to wait until I am read to tackle the painting and conversion myself.
As for recent found treasures, I have been looking for a camelback loco at a reasonable price and finally scored one on ebay last week.
Looking at the box, I'm guessing it's at least 50 years old.
I was fortunate to be able to go to two train shows in a week. I would not say I got one specific treasure but did get some good deals. I picked up several auto kits inexpensively at the Greensboro train show including a Jordan a concor and some national motor company Packards plus other goodies. At hickory I got an SP passenger set for 20 which was the bargain of the whole lot. I also picked up a kanotex tank car I had been hunting for as my grandfather had owned a gas station of a related company. I am a bargain hunter by nature and do love to find deals.
crossthedogKevin, do you mean to say you invented this railroad when you were basically in short pants and have stuck with it for all those years since? That's awesome!
Yes.
The STRATTON AND GILLETTE was created in 1982. It has switched territory four times, scale once, and era twice, but the roadname remains the same.
I still have some of the original decals from Rail Graphics in 1982!
doctorwayneYour Mehano locomotive looks pretty good, and the flanges don't seem to be overly deep. Quite a few years ago, I mail-ordered a pair of IHC Moguls from Hobbies For Men, in Beacon, New York. At fifteen bucks apiece, they weren't bad, although they did have fairly deep flanges. To address that, I removed the body shell, then clipped leads from my shop transformer to the loco's motor. Holding the loco upright, with the drivers turning at a fairly good rate, I brought the face of a running cut-off disc, in a motor tool, to bear lightly against each driver in-turn, each for just a few seconds, so as to not overheat the driver rims, as the spoked centre of the drivers were plastic. In almost no time at all, the wheel flanges were no longer overly deep.
SeeYou190I found this picture of old N scale STRATTON AND GILLETTE equipment from when I was in High School 40 years ago!
PruittWas that the Rocky Mountain train show in Denver yesterday?
A great place to hide a super capacitor keep alive.
crossthedogWhat recent gems have you found, either in a swap meet or online, or at your LHS, or while helping an older neighbor clean out her deceased husband's train room?
I shared this picture a few months ago.
While going through TONS of old photographs, I found this picture of old N scale STRATTON AND GILLETTE equipment from when I was in High School 40 years ago!
This picture really is a treasure to me.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson (probably)
I wish I had pictures of all the crazy kit-bashes and modifications I made back then.
That's a nice-looking 10 Wheeler, Tom, and the backhead detail is quite impressive. I was surprised to see the two firebox doors, though, as it was my thought that they were used mostly (or only) on Wooten fireboxes. I wonder if there would have been two firemen -if it were in the days of a head-end brakeman, that would have been a crowded cab.
crossthedogDo you paint something like that or does that decrease its value?
That depends....if you want it as a display, it might be best to leave it unpainted. If you want it on your layout, a well-done paint job will make it fit-in visually, and could prove to make it more valuable than the unpainted version.On the other hand, a poorly-done paint job will not only look bad, but usually also makes it less valuable.
If I were looking for that locomotive, I'd likely opt for the crummy paint job version, as it would save me a bundle - it's a very simple procedure to strip the paint off, in order to repaint it properly.
I paint all of my own locomotives and have done dozens for others, too.
Your Mehano locomotive looks pretty good, and the flanges don't seem to be overly deep.
Quite a few years ago, I mail-ordered a pair of IHC Moguls from Hobbies For Men, in Beacon, New York.At fifteen bucks apiece, they weren't bad, although they did have fairly deep flanges. To address that, I removed the body shell, then clipped leads from my shop transformer to the loco's motor. Holding the loco upright, with the drivers turning at a fairly good rate, I brought the face of a running cut-off disc, in a motor tool, to bear lightly against each driver in-turn, each for just a few seconds, so as to not overheat the driver rims, as the spoked centre of the drivers were plastic.In almost no time at all, the wheel flanges were no longer overly deep.This process didn't work on the unpowered lead truck or the tender wheels, either, but it was easy to simply replace those with more suitable wheelsets.
I've made a few changes on that loco (the other one went to a friend) and it's a decent runner and a surprisingly capable puller, due to some added (and properly-balanced) weight...