Interesting Douglas.
One of the Twin Cities & Westerns that I returned, ran at only half the speed as another and had a really bad growl sound to it.
TF
A few more thoughts:
I don't think we've gotten a confirmation that the problem with OPs SD40-2 is in fact the known electrical pickup problems that KATO had years ago.
The KATO issue was remedied by KATO when they redesigned the pickup system. I think the bad SD40-2s were produced years ago. We don't know what vintage OPs loco is.
IMO, detail doo-dads falling off during shipping is NOT a QC issue. It should be expected that a few details might fall off during shipping. Sort of the trade off you get if you don't want molded on details, or the occasional glue mark if the parts are not designed to be press fitted.
Then there are broken parts, handrails,etc. Or motors that don't run. Obvious QC issues that should be remedied on a case by case basis.
Then there is bad engineering. Electrical pickup design, boards not staying on, motor growl, truck growl (both becoming more common with sound locos that cover up the mechanical noise).
Decoder buzz is a huge design flaw.
All of the design flaws should have recalls, because the consumer should not have to reengineer something that wasn't a problem before the manufacturer decided to change the engineering to accomodate some advancement (in their eyes), or more to the point, to save costs.
Lots of locos from various companies should have been recalled over the years.
- Douglas
Good morning
That's a bummer that happened to you GN24. Sorry about that.
I didn't know Kato was having quality issues but Atlas sure is lately.
I was in the process of getting my brother two Atlas Twin Cities & Western locomotives. #2300 and #2301 for my Brother's Birthday. The first one was a DC/DCC and sound, hybrid. As we tested it at the hobby store the lights came on with the sound but it didn't move. I decided to get him two standard DC locomotives on the internet as like me, he will not be upgrading to DCC for quite a few years yet. Out of those two locomotives one did not work at all either. I managed to get that resolved with a new one.
Later I decided I want a set of these two locomotives as they have never been released before in N scale and we're selling out quickly. I picked up #2300 and #2301 at the hobby store. I did not test them as I figured there could not possibly be something wrong with another one. Well there was and I had to go exchange that one too. That was three out of five that were Jacked.
Bruce said he has been having trouble with these and I even had a railing fall off one of mine. I was just lucky to find it, crawling around on the carpeting. A gentleman at Midwest Hobbies told me they have been having trouble with these as the PC board is not fastened down tight enough on a lot of them disrupting the connections. He told me if I remove the shell and tighten the board down it should be fine. I did not want to do that, I have broke shells before because they're so hard to remove on N scale.
I have some locomotives that are in Atlas boxes but have Kato on the bottom of them. Seems to me these two companies have been related to one another doing business. Maybe they are both having quality issues lately. Obviously they are and I'm sure they're well aware of it.
Maybe you can swap out the guts with Kato and keep that beautiful shell you worked so hard on GN24?
Brand new out of the box.
Hey Leroy! Have you been forgetting to put glue on the railings and tightened down the PC boards? ..... No! I've been doing it! The Bear has been tearing them off
John-NYBW I am in this hobby to end up with a well running and good looking layout. The quickest route to that end is the one I choose to take. When I pay my money, I think it is reasonable to expect to get what I pay for. If I choose to buy a RTR piece of equipment, I am essentially paying someone else to build it for me. It's not unreasonable to expect them to build it properly. If others derive their pleasure from doing things the old fashioned way, I'm happy for them, but that's no reason to expect me to follow the same path.
I am in this hobby to end up with a well running and good looking layout. The quickest route to that end is the one I choose to take. When I pay my money, I think it is reasonable to expect to get what I pay for. If I choose to buy a RTR piece of equipment, I am essentially paying someone else to build it for me. It's not unreasonable to expect them to build it properly.
If others derive their pleasure from doing things the old fashioned way, I'm happy for them, but that's no reason to expect me to follow the same path.
There is nothing wrong with that approach, I use that approach for part of my modeling, mainly so I have more time for the parts I want to devote that other kind of attention to.
And I agree, defective products should be repaired, replaced or refunded - when they are new.
But when I buy a new old stock Proto2000 loco made 25 years ago, I pay my money and take my chances. If the gears are cracked, I simply replace them. Life Like gave me a big supply of replacement wheelsets way back in the day - it is just now running low......
Sheldon
Trainman440 richhotrain One kind act could result in a customer for life. Rich I wish Bachmann had the same mindset as AHM. When I sent in my first loco (under warrenty), they not only charged me, but told me I couldnt get it back as it was unfixable and gave me a limited replacement selection, none of which fit my era. Later I found out this was common for Bachmann. Being a manufacturer well known for making starter sets, I would expect more from a manufacturer like that. I hope they change their policies. Charles
richhotrain One kind act could result in a customer for life. Rich
One kind act could result in a customer for life.
Rich
I wish Bachmann had the same mindset as AHM. When I sent in my first loco (under warrenty), they not only charged me, but told me I couldnt get it back as it was unfixable and gave me a limited replacement selection, none of which fit my era. Later I found out this was common for Bachmann. Being a manufacturer well known for making starter sets, I would expect more from a manufacturer like that. I hope they change their policies.
Charles
As someone with more than a couple Bachmann locos, yes, they have replaced a few locos for me, no charge, and few for the modest fee, depending on the situations.
For the record, Bachmann has replaced two out of 30 steam locos, the other 28 have been trouble free, as have the replacements. They have replaced two out of 6 doodlebugs, which have all now been trouble free.
Two out of seven Broadway locos had serious problems that they offered little help for. I fixed the two Broadway locos myself, making parts from incorrect parts that were all they had to sell me.
My track record - Bachmann 11% failure rate, Broadway 28% failure rate......... yet I still bought more Broadway.......
With Bachmann I was lucky most of the time, they had the same loco I sent in, or had the same loco I sent but in a different roadname and they were willing to also return my old shells so I could swap them out.
Yes it stinks when they no longer have the same loco for a replacement. In this new "limited production, we don't know when or if we will make more of those, and have no or few parts for repair" world I don't know what the answer is.
But it is really no different than when Broadway could not even sell me the correct parts for a first run heavy Mikado because they had been made six years, three countries and five sub contractors ago and the design of the axle bearings had been changed that many times - they only had parts for their newest version.
Back in the day, manufacturers made products in their own factories, they made the same products, in batches, but they made them for years without changing them. It was practical to keep full parts inventories on hand, and to have authorized dealer repair stations do repair work, warranty or otherwise.
Today, they make a batch of this or that, next time they make that loco it might not even get made in the same factory, which often means minor changes.
Just like I experianced with the Broadway Mikados.
My current decision to likely not buy more Broadway locos has nothing to do with the parts problems I had with the two Mikados. I only have 7 Broadway locos, the two Mikes were purchases 4 and 5, I bought 6 and 7 without hesitation.
Not exactly sure what people expect any of these companies to do long after these products are out of production, or during long intervals between runs?
I guess I have just been lucky, I have had relatively few problems in my 140 loco fleet.
But you know, once I cut the wiring hardness off the tender, and use it to install a Bachmann tender behind my Broadway loco, I'm not going to expect too much warranty service from Broadway. Five of the seven now have nice quiet Spectrum tenders - the other two came with quiet tenders during the brief time they offered "stealth".
But, here I thought KATO locomotives were always perfect? Maybe this is were I should act like a lot of other people - glad I don't own any KATO.......... oh, that's right, they have never made anything I want......
One last thought. I started in this hobby at age 10, a story I will not repeat again now, by age 15 I worked in the local hobby shop and did all the repairs.
Today I know the strengths and weaknesses of most of the products I own, not all of which were made last week or are under some new purchase warranty.
So I have a parts inventory, Proto 2000 gears and wheelsets, Bachmann pickup wiper assemblies, Athearn/Proto sideframe details, and more.
Since none of my locos are still "stock" and most say "ATLANTIC CENTRAL", I guess they are all mine......
richhotrainThe poor kid is only 14 years old. I feel bad for him. I wonder if a call to KATO USA would be in order. Maybe they would fix it or just provide him with a new loco.
Thats exactly what I was thinking in my post on page 1.
Try Kato USA, and go from there. Then he knows his options.
Here's a thread showing a fix:
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/21055
Mike.
My You Tube
Trainman440 John-NYBW I am in this hobby to end up with a well running and good looking layout. The quickest route to that end is the one I choose to take. When I pay my money, I think it is reasonable to expect to get what I pay for. If I choose to buy a RTR piece of equipment, I am essentially paying someone else to build it for me. It's not unreasonable to expect them to build it properly. If others derive their pleasure from doing things the old fashioned way, I'm happy for them, but that's no reason to expect me to follow the same path. Im not saying if I buy an engine new and it explodes during startup, that I'll keep it, but I am saying if Ive ran an engine for say a few hours (as I suspect the OP has done) and it breaks, Id disassemble it to see if it's a simple fix or something that's way out of my control. He's 14, so I understand his unwillingness to purse any further, but assuming you're older, Id expect you to atleast attempt to diagnose a problem before sending it back. And from how I read your posts, I dont think you do. But you know what, enjoy the hobby as you'd like. I just hope you never buy anything from me. (not that you likely buy used things on ebay anyways) You sound like one of those buyers who will return an engine if a coupler fell out or a wheel popped out. I've had customers like that and I greatly dislike dealing with those. Good luck, Charles
Im not saying if I buy an engine new and it explodes during startup, that I'll keep it, but I am saying if Ive ran an engine for say a few hours (as I suspect the OP has done) and it breaks, Id disassemble it to see if it's a simple fix or something that's way out of my control. He's 14, so I understand his unwillingness to purse any further, but assuming you're older, Id expect you to atleast attempt to diagnose a problem before sending it back. And from how I read your posts, I dont think you do.
But you know what, enjoy the hobby as you'd like. I just hope you never buy anything from me. (not that you likely buy used things on ebay anyways) You sound like one of those buyers who will return an engine if a coupler fell out or a wheel popped out. I've had customers like that and I greatly dislike dealing with those.
Good luck,
Do you think it is acceptable for a loco to break down after just few hours of running? Is that how low we are willing to set the bar for quality control. A loco should run a few HUNDRED hours at a minimum before requiring an overhaul. It's not as if there are a lot of moving parts on a diesel loco. The extent of my diagnosis is determining if it is operator error, a fault in the track or the wiring, or if the problem is in the loco itself. If the loco is the problem, I'm not spending one minute trying to fix it. Not after just a few hours of running. A loco that breaks down after just a few hours is a piece of junk and I'm not spending my hard earned money for junk and I am not wasting my time fixing somebody else's junk. It's their obligation to replace it with a working loco or refund my money.
Trainman440 I wish Bachmann had the same mindset as AHM. When I sent in my first loco (under warrenty), they not only charged me, but told me I couldnt get it back as it was unfixable and gave me a limited replacement selection, none of which fit my era. Later I found out this was common for Bachmann. Being a manufacturer well known for making starter sets, I would expect more from a manufacturer like that. I hope they change their policies.
Alton Junction
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
Instagram (where I share projects!): https://www.instagram.com/trainman440
Doughless AHM explaining what happened, my mistake, for repair. They sent me a new one.
Russell
Doughless When I was 14, I thought that my AHM 4-6-2 had full metal drivers. Looked like it and felt like it. I cleaned them by setting the loco in a shallow pan of tetrahydrochloride...nasty stuff.... The next day, the drivers were melted. Mom sent the loco to AHM explaining what happened, my mistake, for repair. They sent me a new one. OPs SD40-2 is long out of production (if it has the strip pickup problem). I hope KATO would be as kind as AHM was back in the day.
When I was 14, I thought that my AHM 4-6-2 had full metal drivers. Looked like it and felt like it. I cleaned them by setting the loco in a shallow pan of tetrahydrochloride...nasty stuff.... The next day, the drivers were melted.
Mom sent the loco to AHM explaining what happened, my mistake, for repair.
They sent me a new one.
OPs SD40-2 is long out of production (if it has the strip pickup problem). I hope KATO would be as kind as AHM was back in the day.
richhotrain mbinsewi Doughless Okay. The Kato SD40-2 Mid Production is the one with the bad electrical pickup. If thats what OP has, it's very fixable, but I'm not sure he's up to the task. I haven't looked at mine yet. I ran it about 10 minutes, forward and reverse, and put it back in the box. The poor kid is only 14 years old. I feel bad for him. I wonder if a call to KATO USA would be in order. Maybe they would fix it or just provide him with a new loco. Rich
mbinsewi Doughless Okay. The Kato SD40-2 Mid Production is the one with the bad electrical pickup. If thats what OP has, it's very fixable, but I'm not sure he's up to the task. I haven't looked at mine yet. I ran it about 10 minutes, forward and reverse, and put it back in the box.
Doughless Okay. The Kato SD40-2 Mid Production is the one with the bad electrical pickup.
If thats what OP has, it's very fixable, but I'm not sure he's up to the task.
I haven't looked at mine yet. I ran it about 10 minutes, forward and reverse, and put it back in the box.
The poor kid is only 14 years old. I feel bad for him. I wonder if a call to KATO USA would be in order. Maybe they would fix it or just provide him with a new loco.
Trainman440 John-NYBW Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise. It is not like buying a defective toaster. One main reason you're in this hobby is to create/modify/customize your models.
John-NYBW Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise.
Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise.
It is not like buying a defective toaster. One main reason you're in this hobby is to create/modify/customize your models.
No, that is the reason you are in the hobby. I am in the hobby to create an operating layout as efficiently as possible. I have to weigh that against budgetary constraints. I buy as much RTR equipment and Ready-Built structures as I can afford. I build from kits as my finances dictate. If I could afford it, I would pay a professional to build the layout for me but unless I see the Publisher's Clearing House van pull into my driveway, that's not likely to happen. If others get their satisfaction from building things, wonderful. I find building the layout to be tedious. To me, it's the destination and not the journey that gives me pleasure.
Trainman440 That's the art and beauty behind it. It's a hobby afterall, a way to pass time by tinkering with your models. It's not like bad toaster, which is not a hobby, but rather an tool. The toaster would be the equivalent of my DCC controller breaking. We are not electrical engineers, we are modelers. We work with our models, not repair circuit boards. The models we buy/make would be equivalent to the sandwich we make with the toaster. Yes, you can buy premade sandwiches, but the joy of making your own sandwich is similar to a modeler working with his trains.
That's the art and beauty behind it. It's a hobby afterall, a way to pass time by tinkering with your models. It's not like bad toaster, which is not a hobby, but rather an tool. The toaster would be the equivalent of my DCC controller breaking. We are not electrical engineers, we are modelers. We work with our models, not repair circuit boards. The models we buy/make would be equivalent to the sandwich we make with the toaster. Yes, you can buy premade sandwiches, but the joy of making your own sandwich is similar to a modeler working with his trains.
Yes it is and I don't draw a lot of satisfaction from either. Both are a means to and end.
Trainman440 It's an odd metaphor, but I hope it makes sense to most of you. If you're in this hobby not to pass time or enjoy yourself, but rather to spend thousands of dollars to collect new RTR models, without ever having the intention of adding your own artistic touch, then I can see your point. Charles
It's an odd metaphor, but I hope it makes sense to most of you.
If you're in this hobby not to pass time or enjoy yourself, but rather to spend thousands of dollars to collect new RTR models, without ever having the intention of adding your own artistic touch, then I can see your point.
Doughless I thought KATO made an SD40. Not an SD40-2. They made both, the dash 2 having a longer frame. Jim
I thought KATO made an SD40. Not an SD40-2.
DoughlessOkay. The Kato SD40-2 Mid Production is the one with the bad electrical pickup.
Okay. The Kato SD40-2 Mid Production is the one with the bad electrical pickup.
Since it was a design flaw, I'm sure the producer issued a recall.....
I doubt that they would have expected the consumer to rewire and make-whole a new locomotive (yeah they would).
So if OP has one of those, there is no "repair" back to factory specs....the factory spec is the problem.
Maybe send it to Cuba. Those folks are pretty good at rigging up non engineered fixes.
I've got a Kato SD40-2, factory painted for the UP. Eventially it's going to get bashed alittle and end up with a 4 window wide cab.
Here's the OP's first thread he started on this:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/287028.aspx
Then with in about a half hour, he started this thread.
He said in the first thread that he has painted the nose already, so he doesn't think he can send it back.
No where, has he said he took the shell off.
You can see the video he made painting a locomotive, in his post about movie trains, and he did all the painting with the shell on, the complete locomotive.
The OP also mentions in the first thread that his previous locomotive repair attempts ended in disasters.
He doesn't have much choice, but to attempt to fix it himself, or find somebody that will fix it, or at least work with him, and help him fix it.
He says it came in the mail. So, is it Ebay NOS? Ordered from Kato? or through one the many on line stores? We don't know that.
We do know that now it's his, non-returnable because of a rush to paint.
If he bought it from Kato, there is a chance they will fix it, and send it back, but I think a refund or replacement is out of the question.
He has to decide which way he wants to go.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL John-NYBW MisterBeasley Sometimes, you just have to admit that this engine is yours, and you're a Model Railroader. And a Model Railroader can fix it. What are you going to do in two years when something breaks? I bought a GG-1, and it didn't make it around the layout on Day 1. I realized the couplers were garbage, so I swapped them for Kadees. Probably voided the warranty. But I got good couplers. Believe in yourself. Believe in yourself. Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise. If it's defective it should go back to the store where you bought it for replacement or refund. They can return it to where they got it from and get credit for it. Let the manufacture with the poor quality control eat the cost of fixing it. Well, if he did take it apart and paint it, I think it is his..... Now a good dealer or manufacturer might help him out, but at that point is is not just a defective toaster. If I buy a brand new car, and start messing around with adding or changing things, the more I do the more I limit the responsibility of the manufacturer. But this is becoming a hobby of "model collectors" not model builders........ This is why modeles should get some test run time before they get painted, kit bashed or whatever. If it is still out of the box "pristine" take it back and stops working in one day, take it back. Sheldon
John-NYBW MisterBeasley Sometimes, you just have to admit that this engine is yours, and you're a Model Railroader. And a Model Railroader can fix it. What are you going to do in two years when something breaks? I bought a GG-1, and it didn't make it around the layout on Day 1. I realized the couplers were garbage, so I swapped them for Kadees. Probably voided the warranty. But I got good couplers. Believe in yourself. Believe in yourself. Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise. If it's defective it should go back to the store where you bought it for replacement or refund. They can return it to where they got it from and get credit for it. Let the manufacture with the poor quality control eat the cost of fixing it.
MisterBeasley Sometimes, you just have to admit that this engine is yours, and you're a Model Railroader. And a Model Railroader can fix it. What are you going to do in two years when something breaks? I bought a GG-1, and it didn't make it around the layout on Day 1. I realized the couplers were garbage, so I swapped them for Kadees. Probably voided the warranty. But I got good couplers. Believe in yourself. Believe in yourself.
Sometimes, you just have to admit that this engine is yours, and you're a Model Railroader. And a Model Railroader can fix it.
What are you going to do in two years when something breaks? I bought a GG-1, and it didn't make it around the layout on Day 1. I realized the couplers were garbage, so I swapped them for Kadees. Probably voided the warranty. But I got good couplers.
Believe in yourself.
Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from? I've never understood why we in this hobby are willing to put up with poor quality merchandise. If it's defective it should go back to the store where you bought it for replacement or refund. They can return it to where they got it from and get credit for it. Let the manufacture with the poor quality control eat the cost of fixing it.
Well, if he did take it apart and paint it, I think it is his.....
Now a good dealer or manufacturer might help him out, but at that point is is not just a defective toaster.
If I buy a brand new car, and start messing around with adding or changing things, the more I do the more I limit the responsibility of the manufacturer.
But this is becoming a hobby of "model collectors" not model builders........
This is why modeles should get some test run time before they get painted, kit bashed or whatever.
If it is still out of the box "pristine" take it back and stops working in one day, take it back.
I agree if the loco was painted it shouldn't be eligible for refund. The OP hadn't mentioned that part. Just the fact the shell was removed raises the possibility that it was damaged during the painting process.
Model railroading is about making choices. Some choose to do things the old fashioned way and scratch build or kit build the items for their layout. Others choose to spend a little more money and take advantage of RTR and Ready-Built items, options that weren't available in early days of the hobby. Those making that choice has a reasonable expectation that what they buy should be in working order right out of the box. Those making that choice can still upgrade those items by changing couplers or wheels, adding details, or weathering. Once that is done, it is no longer a new item and anything that goes wrong is now the responsibility of the modeler. It's reasonable to expect such a model to be in good working order before such enhancements are made and it would be wise to test it out before hand.
It is not like buying a defective toaster. One main reason you're in this hobby is to create/modify/customize your models. That's the art and beauty behind it. It's a hobby afterall, a way to pass time by tinkering with your models. It's not like bad toaster, which is not a hobby, but rather an tool. The toaster would be the equivalent of my DCC controller breaking. We are not electrical engineers, we are modelers. We work with our models, not repair circuit boards. The models we buy/make would be equivalent to the sandwich we make with the toaster. Yes, you can buy premade sandwiches, but the joy of making your own sandwich is similar to a modeler working with his trains.
One good rant deserves another. If I was scratchbuilding or kit building, I would expect to do some work. If an item is sold as ready-to-run, it should be ready-to-run. RTR shouldn't mean ready-to-tinker-with. I was really baffled by this statement:
"Now its to a point where modelers expect models to be delievered as perfectly operating condition, and any small issue will make them return the model for a refund."
With any other consumer product I buy, that is the expectation and I would return it if it was not in perfect operating condition right out of the box. Why should I expect less from a model railroading product?
John-NYBW If I bought something brand new and it broke the first day, it would go right back to whomever I bought it from. I wouldn't even attempt to fix it. I wouldn't do that with anything else I bought. Why should I be expected to do that with a model railroading item?
If I bought something brand new and it broke the first day, it would go right back to whomever I bought it from. I wouldn't even attempt to fix it. I wouldn't do that with anything else I bought. Why should I be expected to do that with a model railroading item?
I fully disagree with the above statement.
It is sad the current RTR state of model railroading is these days. Back then, many scratch built their own engines. Others bought kits and customized engines themselves. There was the art and pride of having personal customized models that few other owned. Soon, RTR models made the need to assemble/create one's own models unnecessary. Now its to a point where modelers expect models to be delievered as perfectly operating condition, and any small issue will make them return the model for a refund. The long days of customizing your own models, or atleast troubleshooting them is gone, with this current inability of even taking the shell off.
OP, Im not saying being afraid of troubleshooting is bad, I understand the fear of damaging your model especially when your experience is limited in that area. But the outright refusal to troubleshoot a model and simply blame the manufacturer as the quoted above reply implies, is what I have a problem with. Likely, some wire got loose inside the engine, and it'll take 5 seconds to fix.
Model railroading is fundamentally a very hands on hobby, the fact that most manufacturers preassemble your models is great, but that doesn't mean you can expect to never have to disassemble your engines ever (for maintainence, replacing parts, adding decoders, etc). Be willing to eventually learn how to do so, or be prepared for a very frustrating experience.
Excuse my rant.
The original run of Kato SD40-2's in HO had N scale style power strips that copper nubs on the trucks pickups rubbed against. While it works great in N scale, for one reason or another it was problematic in HO if the trucks moved in just the right position they would loose contact with that strip. I had a pair that I "high hooded" for NS and during that process, soldered pickup wires on each side of the truck to those nubs, removed the copper strips and hard wired those wires to the motor feeds. With the model custom painted, it wont be returnable. But if the OP cannot repair it himself, the shop can or has someone they can refer him to most likely. I do some of this type of work for a shop down in Indy, mostly on brass but also other stuff their in house tech cannot get to or is unable to repair like axle gears on steamers. Mike
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
If the OP did take the engine apart to paint it, it begs the question of if he did a break-in / test run with it before taking it apart, or waited until after and then the problem popped up. I always do a break-in run (10 min. or so in each direction steady running) on DC first before doing anything else with a new engine. I have had it happen that an engine failed during a DC break-in run, and had to be sent back to the manufacturer.
I recall a run of KATO SD40-2's (early) had electrical issues with the pickups and contacts. I wonder if this is from that run.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Yes, that is the issue. If it was undecortated, or the factory paint was stripped and the model repainted, it's not really returnable. Likely problem is simply a loose wire from having the shell off to paint it, really. Simple fix. Costs less of my time to simply fix it than to drive back to the store, or pack it up and mail it back if purchased online.
Hopefully not something more serious like paint getting on the motor. But even that can be cleaned up, just have to be careful with what is used so as not to damage the shell in the process.
As Sheldon mentioned - test first. If it worked perfectly fine before taking it apart to paint, guarantee it's a loose wire type of thing - of course with DCC a loose wire can mean a blown decoder if it touches the wrong spot. I guess I need to follow that advice with the Atlas RS3 I got a few months ago, DC version which I haven't even had out of the box yet. Don't have a way to run it, but I can power it from my bench power supply to verify it at least turns. Even if I will be putting a sound decoder in it before it every actually runs on the rails.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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John-NYBW Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from?
Why should it be the job of a model railroader to fix defective merchandise? If you bought a toaster and it didn't work, would you try to fix it or take it back to the store you bought it from?