HO locomotives issues??

[wvg_ca]

hopefully the track you got was nickel silver , not steel or brass   ...

yes, the last two will work, but will need more frequent cleaning ..

if you're not sure of steel or nickel silver, get a test magnet ... will stick to steel, no stick to nickel silver

[BRAKIE]

tstage

But, again, that has to be taken on a case-by-case basis, since we know that studs & duds can be found from all manufacturers.

Tom, Let's not forget the junk train set stuff that one finds in pop flats at train shows at ridiculous prices.  This stuff should be avoided.

Perhaps we should be teaching new modelers on what brands not to buy new or used like the older Bachmann locomotives with the pancake motor,Tyco, train set Life Like and other like brands?  And how about  the AHM/Rivarossi locomotives and freight cars of the 60s has deep flanges requires Code 100 track since the flanges will bump the ties on Code 83 rail. These can still be found in abundace at train shows.

Perhaps  we  should have topics  from time to time that covers the in and outs of the hobby?   I know my Dad and the fellas at the Columbus HO club taught me a lot of things when I was a young modeler.

From those lessons  I forged my personal hobby path and that path has given me over 60s years of enjoyment. Of course there was many lessons I  learned the hardway in the great school of exerience..    

 

 

[tstage]

Larry,

I hear what you are saying.  A newbie doesn't need to pay top dollar for good-quality.  (See my previous supplimental post right above yours.)

I've found some great deals on websites like eBay and M.B. Klein.  Some items were new, some were NIB; a few were even more than 50% off MSRP.  That came, however, from experience because I knew the cost for the locomotive or piece of rolling stock and what a bargain it was.

Unless a newbie has some prior experience purchasing or scouring the interent for bargains, I'd rather see them find good-quality "new" (albeit new, NIB, or nearly new) stock at a price that they can afford.  But, again, that has to be taken on a case-by-case basis, since we know that studs & duds can be found from all manufacturers.

I think the easiest item to get right is probably track.  Even then one must be aware that there is steel, brass, and nickel-silver available and different codes.

Tom

[BRAKIE]

tstage

This is why I always tell a newbie never to purchase anything used - even in sets.

Tom, That could be good or bad advice.. While I agree to a point I will mention there are like new products that is sold for far less then MSRP or street prices. Also keep in mind there are those that can't afford to pay today's prices and used may be there only option.

90% of my engines was bought used and every one was in prestine contdition. I would say 80% of my high end freight cars was bought used. The last used engine I bought was a custom painted Atlas/Kato SCL GP7 for $35.00 at the last train show I attended..

I have bought use track at train shows that was like new. The seller was changing scales and selling off his HO stuff to help finance the change. His HO layout was planned for "some day", he bought the  needed cars,locomotive structures, track etc and then decided On3 was more to his liking. 

Needless to say I help him by buying a lot of his stuff..

[tstage]

jjo

Wow...Learned much from your posts but two points stand out:

1. Buy NEW, not used..  I was using this as an easy, economical way to get started but I see your logic.

jjo,

That's usually the best approach for newbies who are getting their feet wet.  That doesn't mean that good used equipment can't be had though.  For rarer/OOP (out of product) items - sometimes that's your only option.  You just have to be wise in your purchases and know exactly what you are buying before you buy it.  That will lead to less frustration and disappointment.

Economical ≠ bargain and expensive ≠ quality.  I've learned you have to make your purchases on a case-by-case basis - even product from the same manufacturer.

Tom

[mbinsewi]

jjo

Of course, I'll have to figure how to post as I am relatively new to this forum..

Read the "How to" on the General Discussion forum.  It's at the top of the list. 

Mike.

[jjo]

Wow...Learned much from your posts but two points stand out:

1. Buy NEW, not used..  I was using this as an easy, economical way to get started but I see your logic.

2. CLEANING is a good first step.. I will do that tomorrow and report back.

Thank you for your input!!! You're probably saving me a trip to the hobby shops if they ever open.    Thank you, guys..Helping me a lot!!! 

[jjo]

South Penn, added to my wish list..Thank you,

[jjo]

Simon, I agree but all the local hobby shops here are closed due to virus...So I'm doing much of this "in the blind"...Reading a lot but seeing/holding is usually better.

Thanks

[jjo]

garya

Gary I will try to get more detailed info tomorrow...AND I definetly plan to clean rails and wheels...Thnk you,

 

 

jjo

As part of setting up of my "starter" 4X8 HO layout, I puchased ,as a group, a bunch of HO Locomotives, cars, track, transformer, switches etc. The track and  switches  are initially installed but  as I started to test 3 of the 5 locomotives this morning ,they are operating very sporadicly. Stop/Go then stop..Very erractic..The seller had honestly warned me that some of the 5 locos would probably need some work..

Is there a source I could use to guide me in troubleshooting these, perhaps clean them, tighten , check wiring. etc.? The power unitthat came with  is a RailPower 1300 15V and appears properly connected to the track...Sorry to burden you with such a basic question but your knowledge will help guide me down right path...Thank you, the newbie (but loving it)

 

 

 

 

An MRC RailPower 1300 is a good power pack.  What make are the track and switches?  How about the locomotives and cars?

I would probably clean the track first, the clean the wheels on the locomotives.  You can use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or old tee shirt, and clean the tops of the rails.  You should get some black streaks.

You can put alcohol on paper towel, place it on the track, and place one set of trucks from a locomotive on the towel.  If you apply power and hold the loco, the wheels should spin, cleaning the wheelsets.  Do this with both trucks.  You will get black streaks.  You may need to move the towel and reapply alcohol before the wheels are clean.

You will be surprised at how much better everything runs with clean wheels and track.

As far as lubing locomotives, it depends on the make, but you may need to clean old, dried up grease out of the gears and relube.

 

[jjo]

One of the locos is a Bachman....Tomorrow I'll try to get more detailed info on all and maybe some pictures...Of course, I'll have to figure how to post as I am relatively new to this forum.. Thanks for your ideas...

[jjo]

dstarr

Locomotives that have not run for some time can prove balky. This can be fixed. Things to do:

1.  Clean all the wheels.  Put a paper towel on the track, moisten it with a solvent.  I use GooGone.  Others use alcohol.  Power up the locomotive; have it spin its wheels on the paper towel. 

2.  Remove the shell.  Find the gear boxes or gear towers.  Take the gear box or gear towers apart. Save the gears and keep them in order.  Clean the inside of the gear tower or gear box with alcohol.  Get all the old hardened grease out.  With a pipe cleaner wipe each tooth of each gear.  This will pick up nearly invisible bits of plastic flash and clear them out of the gear teeth. 

3. Dip a pipe cleaner in GooGone and clean the motor commutator.  Never oil a commutator. 

4.  Apply one (just one) drop of light oil (I use 3 in 1) to each motor bearing. 

5.  Put everything back together.  Grease the gears, lightly, with light grease.  I use white molly grease from the auto parts store.  Oil the axles, lightly. 

6.  Clean all the track.  Solvent on a rag works.

7. Run the locomotive.  It ought to be better now.

 

Dstarr, your ideas/recos make sense..I'll print a copy and do them tomorrow and post results here...Thanks for your detailed suggestions....I'll try them tomorrow...

Jerry

[jjo]

Tom, book is added to my wishlist..Thnx for tip.

[jjo]

Big Daddy, only tested the 3..All three had the sporadic performance...Thanks

[SouthPenn]

I've used CRC QD Electronic Cleaner for a few years. The spray nozzle makes it easy to clean hard to reach places. If you are not comfortable taking gearboxes and such apart, you can stick the nozzle in an opening and flush the goo out. You can clean the wheels too without running the engine.

I have never had a problem with the cleaner attacking the paint or plastic, but I would test it on an inconspicuous spot first.

Make sure you get the product that says plastic safe.

[snjroy]

I agree, start by cleaning the wheels, and the track. Check that there is power everywhere on the track. After a good cleaning, check to see if the loco runs. If it doesn't, I would not bet on the future of it. Send a picture or look for a manufacturer name on its belly and send the information here to see if it's worth your time to go further.

The best place to buy used equipment or sets for a newbie is a local hobby shop. I see tons of "sets" sold on Ebay and very few are worth the money in my opinion. I guess someone could assemble decent sets and sell them on Ebay, but folks would be shocked about the price... 

Simon 

[garya]

jjo

As part of setting up of my "starter" 4X8 HO layout, I puchased ,as a group, a bunch of HO Locomotives, cars, track, transformer, switches etc. The track and  switches  are initially installed but  as I started to test 3 of the 5 locomotives this morning ,they are operating very sporadicly. Stop/Go then stop..Very erractic..The seller had honestly warned me that some of the 5 locos would probably need some work..

Is there a source I could use to guide me in troubleshooting these, perhaps clean them, tighten , check wiring. etc.? The power unitthat came with  is a RailPower 1300 15V and appears properly connected to the track...Sorry to burden you with such a basic question but your knowledge will help guide me down right path...Thank you, the newbie (but loving it)

 

An MRC RailPower 1300 is a good power pack.  What make are the track and switches?  How about the locomotives and cars?

I would probably clean the track first, the clean the wheels on the locomotives.  You can use rubbing alcohol on a paper towel or old tee shirt, and clean the tops of the rails.  You should get some black streaks.

You can put alcohol on paper towel, place it on the track, and place one set of trucks from a locomotive on the towel.  If you apply power and hold the loco, the wheels should spin, cleaning the wheelsets.  Do this with both trucks.  You will get black streaks.  You may need to move the towel and reapply alcohol before the wheels are clean.

You will be surprised at how much better everything runs with clean wheels and track.

As far as lubing locomotives, it depends on the make, but you may need to clean old, dried up grease out of the gears and relube.

[mbinsewi]

jjo

but  as I started to test 3 of the 5 locomotives this morning

I think a good place to start is you telling us just what locomotives you bought, as in the manufacturer, and show some pictures, with the shells off.

That's only way anybody can help you, besides scolding you about beginners buying used stuff.

Show us what you have.

Mike.

[dstarr]

Locomotives that have not run for some time can prove balky. This can be fixed. Things to do:

1.  Clean all the wheels.  Put a paper towel on the track, moisten it with a solvent.  I use GooGone.  Others use alcohol.  Power up the locomotive; have it spin its wheels on the paper towel. 

2.  Remove the shell.  Find the gear boxes or gear towers.  Take the gear box or gear towers apart. Save the gears and keep them in order.  Clean the inside of the gear tower or gear box with alcohol.  Get all the old hardened grease out.  With a pipe cleaner wipe each tooth of each gear.  This will pick up nearly invisible bits of plastic flash and clear them out of the gear teeth. 

3. Dip a pipe cleaner in GooGone and clean the motor commutator.  Never oil a commutator. 

4.  Apply one (just one) drop of light oil (I use 3 in 1) to each motor bearing. 

5.  Put everything back together.  Grease the gears, lightly, with light grease.  I use white molly grease from the auto parts store.  Oil the axles, lightly. 

6.  Clean all the track.  Solvent on a rag works.

7. Run the locomotive.  It ought to be better now.

[riogrande5761]

tstage

This is why I always tell a newbie never to purchase anything used - even in sets.

If you're starting out, I've found the best way to purchase items is to 1) buy new, 2) buy quality (that doesn't necessarily equate to expensive) and 3) buy it piecemeal.  You may spend a little more that way because of the shipping but you'll end up with far better equipment and far less frustration.

I started out with an oval of (new) track, an MRC 1370 Railpower transformer, and an Athearn Genesis locomotive.  It purred right along - right out of the box.  I then began to purchase & assemble Accurail kits to initiate and increase my rolling stock roster.

Tom

That's the first thing I thought of when I saw the first post.  Possibly the OP bought some used engines and got some junk that doesn't run well.  Some of them might be able to be re-habed but it's wiser to buy something good quality so as to not sour on the hobby due to frustrations like this here.

Your other comments echo the typical Christmas edition MR magazine articles giving advise.  Buy new and buy piecemeal.  They used to recommend, back in the day, Atlas engines, which were always good runners.  The Atlas trainman are lower cost but usually run very well too.  Athearns newer RTR usually run pretty well too.  Athearn Genesis cost more so beginners may balk at the prices.

[tstage]

This is why I always tell a newbie never to purchase anything used - even in sets.

If you're starting out, I've found the best way to purchase items is to 1) buy new, 2) buy quality (that doesn't necessarily equate to expensive) and 3) buy it piecemeal.  You may spend a little more that way because of the shipping but you'll end up with far better equipment and far less frustration.

I started out with an oval of (new) track, an MRC 1370 Railpower transformer, and an Athearn Genesis locomotive.  It purred right along - right out of the box.  I then began to purchase & assemble Accurail kits to initiate and increase my rolling stock roster.

jjo, I just checked the Kalmbach bookstore and found this book on maintenance.  That might be a good next purchase for you in your circumstance.

HTH,

Tom

[BigDaddy]

Wasn't this used track?  Is it clean, did the rail joiners fit tight?  Are the loco wheels clean?

Certain brands are prone to cracked gears.  Any engine, if it is old enough can suffer from dired out grease in the gears.

Here is an Athearn tune up guide

You said you tested 3/5  Does that mean you didn't test the other 2 and all 3 ran poorly or 2/5 ran OK and 3 still ran poorly?

[jjo]

As part of setting up of my "starter" 4X8 HO layout, I puchased ,as a group, a bunch of HO Locomotives, cars, track, transformer, switches etc. The track and  switches  are initially installed but  as I started to test 3 of the 5 locomotives this morning ,they are operating very sporadicly. Stop/Go then stop..Very erractic..The seller had honestly warned me that some of the 5 locos would probably need some work..

Is there a source I could use to guide me in troubleshooting these, perhaps clean them, tighten , check wiring. etc.? The power unitthat came with  is a RailPower 1300 15V and appears properly connected to the track...Sorry to burden you with such a basic question but your knowledge will help guide me down right path...Thank you, the newbie (but loving it)