Wealth of good info above on the proper lubricants..Thank you all...
Was informed today: my new Diesel Loco from Trains Stuff shipped today...
Regarding locos and terminology, and all that. The NMRA standard for HO is 12 volts DC. An unloaded power pack will put out 14-15 volts when measured. This is all fine. The only HO locos that need more voltage to reach top speed at MTH. Other brands will run plenty fast on the basic power pack, but if they have sound, the control range can be limited, because the first 5-6 volts is needed just to power up the sound system without moving the loco. Honestly, best to avoid sound locos for now. Plain old DC locos will move plenty fast with the power pack you have, you do not need more voltage.
If the model is an SD anything, it's got 6 axles. If it's a GP anything, it's got 4 axles (both lines of prototype made by EMD). For Alco - an S model is a 4 axle switcher, an RS is a 4 axle road switcher, and an RSC/RSD has 6 axles.
Among those designations, you should find plenty of models at good prices that will run nicely, spanning all eras from the early diesel days to modern.
For lubrication, I've always used Labelle products. They make a handy kit with suitable plastic compatible oil and grease. The oil is good for the bearings, the grease is better for the actual gears. If the model can be disassembled, it is best to wash out any old grease, espoecially if it's a used model or one that has been stored for a long time. Just don't let any tiny gears go down the drain. Use a plastic dish with some water and a little Dawn dish soap. If the model can;t be easily taken apart to get the gears away from the motor and any circuit board, you can use swabs and alcohol. Not cotton swabs - they will just leave fibers all over the gears. There used to be foam tipped swabs for cleaning tape decks, if those are still available.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I didn't see this until just now
dstarrIn cleaning brass track you want to do two things. Clean off stickem and oil and assorted types of slime. Alcohol is good for this. 50% is plenty strong enough. Second you want to deal with brass tarnish which does not conduct electricity. GooGone will do both.
GooGone is certainly good. (I use the large size squeeze bottle with squirt insert in the top -- this lets you put the equivalent of a drop or two on a cloth for fine work.) My recommendation is to use it in conjunction with something that will burnish the top of the railhead surface as you clean -- perhaps a heavy-duty plastic scrubbing pad?
Now, something you can do to cheat with this is get one of the jewelry plating pen outfits ... and clean the railhead thoroughly, then plate it. A very small amount of metal, even if you do multiple plating for best electroplate integrity, will go a long way. Theoretically you could mount this on some sort of vehicle and run it at a fixed speed to control thickness, etc.
You can get the same effect on tarnish with something like Brasso.
If you want the same effect as Brasso you can mix something up with a little ammonium-bearing material and appropriate fine abrasive. The best thing I ever found was a British product called Astonish, which lives up to its name in bringing up shine with surprisingly little effort.
While talking about track, be aware that rail joiners don't conduct electricity dependably. The inside of the rail joiner, which is uncleanable, corrodes and eventually the corrosion gets bad enough to stop the flow of electricity. And, after a few mate-demate cycles the rail joiner gets bent out of shape and no longer makes good contact. Sometimes you can squeeze bent rail joiners back into shape with long nose pliers. The best fix is new rail joiners.
In my opinion the best fix is either feeders or bonding wires across the joints. Even the tightest rail joiners will build up oxide unless regularly 'worked' -- which is not generally possible with properly-bonded track segments. Theoretically you could plate the contact areas of these components too (or adopt relatively corrosion-free material for joiners) but I suspect a better idea is to learn the right solder techniques and materials choices, and do a one-time installation of wires to clean metal. (After which you paint the rail sides prototypically and keep the shiny plated contact patch as the only visible 'metal' surface.) It's a pain, but it's a very permanent solution that is relatively easy to undo if you want to change arrangements... I also suspect you will also find other uses for the soldering equipment and materials, to justify the investment in 'doing it right'.
I use Labelle 108 multi-purpose light weight oil for most of the moving parts on my locos and cars. I have some older Athearns that squeal when they need oil, and a couple of drops of this stuff makes them run great.
dstarr leewal I'm surprised you are using 3-in-1 oil with all the better, plastic compatable, lubricants available for model trains. I have been using 3-in-1 oil since my childhood Lionel days. Never had it attack anything, not plastic, not paint, not tie strips, nothing. It's a good light oil originally sold (MANY years ago) to oil electric motors. It doesn't have all the aggressive magic chemicals you find in automotive motor oil designed to keep the viscosity constant over the range of -40F to +180F. It is just straight mineral oil. It is sold every where. I use a toothpick to reach a drop into tight places. I give the two motor bearings just one small drop of 3-in-1 each and the motor will hum happily. It is also good on locomotive wheel bearings.
leewal I'm surprised you are using 3-in-1 oil with all the better, plastic compatable, lubricants available for model trains.
I'm surprised you are using 3-in-1 oil with all the better, plastic compatable, lubricants available for model trains.
I have been using 3-in-1 oil since my childhood Lionel days. Never had it attack anything, not plastic, not paint, not tie strips, nothing. It's a good light oil originally sold (MANY years ago) to oil electric motors. It doesn't have all the aggressive magic chemicals you find in automotive motor oil designed to keep the viscosity constant over the range of -40F to +180F. It is just straight mineral oil. It is sold every where. I use a toothpick to reach a drop into tight places. I give the two motor bearings just one small drop of 3-in-1 each and the motor will hum happily. It is also good on locomotive wheel bearings.
There are several varities of 3 in 1 oil. They make an oil specifically for use in electric motors (blue can): https://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/
This is a 20 weight oil, so it's a bit lighter. I think it would work fine.
Regular 3-in-1 is primarily a napthenic mineral oil, with a tiny amount of citronella scent. It will probably work fine, too, though it is a bit sticky.
I'm curious about using a plastic-compatible ATF, such as Dexron, for a really light lubricant on motor bearings and such. We used to use it on electric motors at a previous job I had.
Gary
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Looking back on this, I've learned: It was the GooGone and a thorough cleaning that solved the issue...Even though it is brass tracks, 3 of 4 locomotives now performing well. Thank you all.....
4-axle = 2 axles/4 wheels per truck
6-axle = 3 axles/6 wheels per truck
If the locomotive is long then it's most likely a 6-axle locomotive. 15V is plenty for operating. My NCE Power Cab only puts out 13.8V.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Placing order today ended up a Challenge: Went to Trains & stuff today to do the order the HO Diesel locomotive...Had to back off..Hard to correlate the info gained here with actual specs, model number, detail etc. so I could order..(my errors, ignorance methinks).Here's my confusions:
Many Locomotives (diesel) said needs 16V to operate properly. My Railpower 1300 power unit is 15V?
I was looking for 4 axle diesel. Many appear to me to be 6 or more. Maybe I'm not defining axle correctly? (1 axle for each pair of wheels/tires?)
The Model number, specs do not match up with the specs I was looking for (no 6 axle, Atlas RS3,Bachman GP 7, 9, 39, 40 and Sd 70,Atlas 38-2 etc)...Hard to translate/match into the descriptions on the web site....
Was sticking with my top 4: Atlas, Bachman, Walthers and Bowser.
Apologize in advance.. My rookie, newbie status is showing....Thought it'd be easy to order. I don't want to order the wrong stuff...You guys gave me good advice and I want to use it......THANK YOU, sheepishly yours,
Jerry
The Googone just arrived...Adventure ahead either tonight or tomorrow...My spouse wants to watch a movie.....
jjo David, very helpful, useful info..thank you.. I think I have an old container of googone in basement....Difficult to buy now at retail..I'll check Amzn...Thank you.
David, very helpful, useful info..thank you.. I think I have an old container of googone in basement....Difficult to buy now at retail..I'll check Amzn...Thank you.
I was wrong..Its a different product,,I'll order from big A
dstarr That's news to me. I am using a large bottle I bought couple of years ago. Back then I never noticed alternate versions of the stuff. Grocery stores usd to stock it in the aisle with cleaning products.
That's news to me. I am using a large bottle I bought couple of years ago. Back then I never noticed alternate versions of the stuff. Grocery stores usd to stock it in the aisle with cleaning products.
David, because of virus, I tried to order on Amzn..They have many diffrerent forms and versions.. No problem.....I'll order one. Thanks
The TYCOs are not worth much. The Bachmanns could be OK to start with, but I suspect they are still in the toy category. The Mehano is a diesel, not worth more than the Bachmanns I'm affraid. The track will need constant cleaning... but not a huge deal if you have a loop or a figure 8. The power pack is probably the only valuable item, although you might want to enter the DCC world faster than you think. My suggestion: work on the Bachmanns, read a lot, fiddle with what you have. Build a few buildings. If you are having fun, then think about changing the track and buying one good loco. I vote for a brand new Bachmann diesel, dc and DCC ready.
Simon
People like to denigrate Ebay. BUT...You can find Stewart F units for around $50. If used but in good shape, as long as the wheels are clean you'll have a nice solid unit.(solid unit, hurr hurr hurr...)If I weren't up to my eyeballs in projects, including 4 unfinished F units, I'd buy this baby myself:https://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-Scale-Stewart-F-Series-A-Unit-Udec-with-Detail-Assoc-Screen-Detail-Kit/303544975861?hash=item46acb0c1f5:g:HfoAAOSwemdenJQj
Disclaimer: This post may contain humor, sarcasm, and/or flatulence.
Michael Mornard
Bringing the North Woods to South Dakota!
garya, fair amount of black streaks where I cleaned on the white TShirt I used..Made me feel I was accomplishing something.
I'll try to clarify the name on the one Loco..thanks
In cleaning brass track you want to do two things. Clean off stickem and oil and assorted types of slime. Alcohol is good for this. 50% is plenty strong enough. Second you want to deal with brass tarnish which does not conduct electricity. GooGone will do both. It's acidic which reduces the tarnish back into bright metal. It will cut any kind of crud I ever saw. You can get the same effect on tarnish with something like Brasso. Alcohol does nothing about tarnish.
While talking about track, be aware that rail joiners don't conduct electricity dependably. The inside of the rail joiner, which is uncleanable, corrodes and eventually the corrosion gets bad enough to stop the flow of electricity. And, after a few mate-demate cycles the rail joiner gets bent out of shape and no longer makes good contact. Sometimes you can squeeze bent rail joiners back into shape with long nose pliers. The best fix is new rail joiners. Hobby shops (if you still have one and it is still open) and Walthers carry new rail joiners.
BTW, lacquer thinner is strong enough to dissolve the plastic tie strip, particularly the tiny little plastic nubs that hold the rail in place. I don't clean my track with lacquer thinner. If you do, try to keep it on the railheads and off the tie strip.
Did you get lots of black streaks? 50% alcohol will work, so keep at it.
jjoBlue Conrail-Bachmann Green Burlington Northern -Memanotenka black North Southern-BACKMANN Small Black Pennsylvania-BACHMANN (runs but slippage) Red/Slvr SANTA FE- TYCO Red/Slvr 2 SANTE FE-Assume TYCO These last 2 have parts but are unassembled. Did not run, The track is Brass and ATLAS I believe, as are most swithches and crossovers.The name plates are hidden on other side.
I'll wait for the pictures, but I'm assuming Memanotenka is Mehano (Mehanotehnika) a large Slovenian Manufacturer.
Partial update: Bad day today (couldn't get 70% alcohol)but cleaned tracks and some of wheels with the 50% alcohol...Some improvement...The erratic stop/go nature is much improved on the 4 locos i could run..(I've added in the Bachman small Black loco to the 3 originals.. I have noticed more slippage today even though layout is basically level..Here's an inventory as you asked:
Blue Conrail-Bachmann
Green Burlington Northern -Memanotenka
black North Southern-BACKMANN
Small Black Pennsylvania-BACHMANN (runs but slippage)
Red/Slvr SANTA FE- TYCO
Red/Slvr 2 SANTE FE-Assume TYCO These last 2 have parts but are unassembled. Did not run,
The track is Brass and ATLAS I believe, as are most swithches and crossovers.The name plates are hidden on other side.
The power unit is RAILPOWER 1300.
I took a few pictures but will have to wait for another day to include.. I use DROPBOX and its doesn't appear to be compatible with system here.. Thank you.
Try mineral spirits or paint thinner. If you can't get those, lacquer thinner.
Update: I went to 3 stores this morning to buy some rubbing alcohol for cleaning the track... ALL 3 stores were out of stock.. Manager explained to me: "as soon as it comes in , its sells out". Apparently, a high demand item in these troubled times. We did find here an old bottle of 50% rubbing alcohol.. So I suppose I can try that (I was searching for 70% in stores but found none at all)..So a bit frustrating but I'll try and update you later..Thanks
I bought much of the rolling stock, and structures, on my layout used from train shows. You need to do a few train shows to get a feel for prices. That and read some of the magazines (MR and RMC) to get a feel for prices of new stuff. For train show locomotives, if it runs it's probably OK. There is always a test track somewhere at a train show. I feel a diesel ought to drive and pick up juice on all 8 wheels, the ones with just one powered truck are old and very low end. If it runs, and looks good to my eye, and fits into my layout's legend (Branchline, B&M, New Hampshire, transition era) and the price is right, I'll buy. Since the last hobby shop up here is closing, and is an hours drive away, I will even buy new stuff at train shows. I try to get contact information from the seller, just in case something goes wrong with it when I get it home. Most sellers will bend over backwards to make things right for a customer. Used stuff I figure it's up to me to fix it. I enjoy tinkering. There is little that some tinkering won't fix for just plain cars. You can replace horn hook couplers with Kadee's, body mount them if necessary, add some weight, replace the wheels, give the whole car a coat of DullCote to tone down the overly bright train set paint jobs, install a load. Good luck and have fun.