Sheldon, just a video I found on youtube, that showed more than just the sound effects of the loco. I cannot vouch one way or the other for the videographers' expertise.
I agree the OP was a little quick to criticize.
With all due respect to yesterdays' International Woman's Day, most of us in the hobby aren't women and we don't read directions. I'm all for close coupling but following those instruction, the OP could not separate the chassis from the tender. Is it glued or painted shut or just not the right tools?
Streamlined steam doesn't do anything for me, so I will never know how this works.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
To all of you who tried to help me.
Thankyou ! :)
PS- I have now contacted Bachmann forums 4 times, and each time asked to be sent an activation email. So far , I have received nothing from them. My old username and password no longwer work either and it was only two months ago I used the site with no problems.
I really don't know what their technical problems are .
Sheldon, I have built over 20 kit steam engines, three brass ones, and a number of Bowser kits, and others and never having any problems.
I have three older Bachamnn Spectrum 4-6-2 K4 HO engines, and they all run fine.
One has TCS WOW sound.
They only lack strong pulling power.
I did manage to couple the tender to this streamline engine. It required moving one axle from each truck as the axles set direcxtly over the screw holes holding the body to to the tender frame.
I feel it was a lot of hassle to couple the tender to the engine.
My experience in HO scae goes back over 50 years.
I have built three layouts over time, one that entirely filled a two car garage.
I am also a licensed Indiana Radio and TV Technician and hold an electrical engineering degree, a HAM radio license and have built 5 HAM radios over the past 50 years.
I recently rebuilt a 1966 Zenith color TV for a neighbor of mine.
It required almost an entirely new wiring harness.
So I am no newbie when it comes to building things.
But once again thanks for all who offered help, it is appreciated!
The K4Kid
BigDaddy Sheldon, just a video I found on youtube, that showed more than just the sound effects of the loco. I cannot vouch one way or the other for the videographers' expertise. I agree the OP was a little quick to criticize. With all due respect to yesterdays' International Woman's Day, most of us in the hobby aren't women and we don't read directions. I'm all for close coupling but following those instruction, the OP could not separate the chassis from the tender. Is it glued or painted shut or just not the right tools? Streamlined steam doesn't do anything for me, so I will never know how this works.
Having done extensive kit bashing on other Bachmann locos, easily 25 or 30 of them, and other brands like BLI, I suspect that in addition to the screws the tender shell also latches or "snaps" onto the floor, possibly requiring the sides to be spread slightly.
And again, in the past, most locos with these drawbars came factory assembled as one unit. But I have easily taken then apart and re-assembled them - like the N&W J.
I find it most amazing that waiting until Monday to get help from Bachmann was such an imposition......
Sheldon
PS - I suspected, so I just looked it up to be sure, the previous non streamlined K4 locos from Bachmann have this same drawbar - this is nothing new for that loco.
TheK4Kid, Initially we did not realize your experience. Sounded like your first loco.
I have some Spectrum steamers but none connect like the K4 you have.
I have seen post where some have issues with BLI locos. I think steamers.
I have two A/B sets but they are fine.
Good luck.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 TheK4Kid, Initially we did not realize your experience. Sounded like your first loco. I have some Spectrum steamers but none connect like the K4 you have. I have seen post where some have issues with BLI locos. I think steamers. I have two A/B sets but they are fine. Good luck. Rich
The close coupling equalizing drawbar has been used on the Spectrum K4, the new streamlined K4 discussed here, the N&W J, and the China SY Mikado.
There may have been others, but they would go back farther than the current Bachmann instruction data base. I seem to remember others for other manufacturers as well.
I suspect other Bachmann/Kader products sold in other parts of the world and not marketed directly by Bachmann USA also use this design. Possibly the China QJ 2-10-2 comes to mind.
I have a sizeable fleet of Spectrum steam locos, and as mentioned, have done a lot of kit bashing with them. I also have BLI and other brands.
I do not find BLI to be any better overall than Bachmann in the steam locomotive department. In fact, I have a list of BLI problem stories I could share, and I have way less BLI locos than Bachmann locos.
Yet my few Bachmann problems were easily fixed with minor mods or Bachmann warranty replacements.
Some years back I posted a thread on a series of very simple improvements to a number of Spectrum/Bachmann steamers.
Dollar for dollar, I will take a Bachmann any day.........much more bang for the buck.
But, regardless of brand, having worked in this business, and just like the OP having been at this hobby for 50 years, I'm not quick to throw any manufacturer "under the bus".
And that is my main reason for my replies to this thread.
These trains today are so much better, for so much less (inflation adjusted), how can we complain? But that's just my view........
Here is the orignal text of my post on improving Bachmann locos:
The following are a number of small improvements I have developed, in some cases with the help of others, for many of the current and recent Bachmann HO locomotives, mostly those in their Spectrum line.
After mentioning some of these items in another post, John requested I elaberate. Much of this info I have posted before, either here or on the Bachmann board, but for those who missed those - here goes:
But first a disclaimer - I run DC, using Aristo Craft Train Engineer wireless throttles. Some of my performance related changes are directly related to the use these throttles or in some cases, you may see an improvement with any DC throttle, but maybe not to the same degree as the Train Engineer which has a pulse width modulated output.
Tip #1 - remove the motor circuit RF suppression capacitors. They are generally located on the circuit board often right near were the motor leads are attached. Sometimes they are disc type, on most newer models they are PC board type. Removing them will lower the starting speed and lower the slowest operational speed. It will also correct problems with some brands of aftermarket decoders.
This mod is especially effective on the 2-8-0, but does improve EVERY loco, and I have now removed ALL such capacitors.
I do this to all brands of products that have such RF filters in place. In addition to Bachmann, I have found them on some Intermountain and Proto2000 DC versions.
Tip #2 - add weight to the tenders - if you run long trains or do lots of backing, or back whole trains into staging, this will vertually eliminate tender derailments while backing. Additionally it greatly improves electrical pickup and is one key step in eliminating problems with the tender to loco wires.
Some other brands also need weight, but this is mainly a Bachmann issue. I add about 2 oz to most all Bachmann tenders. It seems to have no negative effect on pulling power as it is less than the weight of one freight car.
Tip #3 - OK, now we get loco specific - Spectrum USRA Heavy 4-8-2 - I modify the drawbar by bending a "dip" into it as close to the loco end as possible - about 1/8" in length and depth. This provides better clearance for the wires, which plug in directly above the drawbar on this model, and shortens the drawbar slightly, which improves the locos appearance. I run all my locos close coupled as I have large curves, but this mod does not seem to effect the use of either position or decrease useable minimum radius.
Tip #4 - replacing Bachmann couplers with Kadee couplers - generally the coupler pockets are too shallow to allow Kadee's to drop in. To solve this I gently file down the shank of Kadee #148's until they fit - I never use generic couplers on anything.
Tip #5 - the previously Spectrum, now regular line 2-8-0 - I add a small amount of additional weight in the domes. Not sure it really helps much, but I feel better about it. I also remove the metal spring from the pilot truck. This does seem to show a measurable increase in pulling power, if only by a few cars.
Tip #6 - the new regular line 2-8-4 - it is very easy to add about 5 oz of weight to these and greatly improve their pulling power - I will try to get a picture up showing the boiler off and the weight added. Mine will pull 35 cars on level track after the added weight.
Tip #7 - tender swaps - the following is a copy of a post from some years ago on the Bachmann board regarding tender swaps. It contains most everything you need to know about Spectrum tender swaps and how to do them without major rewiring or moving/replacing circuit boards:
If anyone has other Bachmann tender swap questions, I can likely help, just ask. I have used Spectrum tenders behind a number of other brands of locos with good results as well.
This is quite long now, so I will leave it at this. Feel free to offer your thoughts or ask questions.
A few years ago I remember a short with a tender swap using the jumpers. The jumpers I quickly realized swapped all three functions. Had to rewire the tender PC board and the tender was wired for light bulb in the loco, not for an LED.
I saw questions in the Bachmann forums about tender wiring a few times.
As far as joining the forums, over the years I left the forums and eventually joined again. No problem joining. I was immediately accepted. It was automatic. Used a new name.
Thanks Rich,
I was a biut hasty, but of all the steam engines I have and have ever encountered, I have never seen the "Y" shaped drawbar used before.
Thescrews that need to be removed are directly below the rear axle of the front tender truck and the front axle of the rear tender truck. Swiveling them aside still will not allow enough room to put a screwdriver shaft straight in on them.
Bachmann should have had a directions sheet describing and with some sort of pictures to illustrate what is required.
The reason I chose the K4 streamline is my layout theme is based on the PRR from the early 1940's until the late 1950's.
Both my Uncle and my Dad worked on the Pennsy when I was very young , up until I was about 6 years old.
Dad was brakeman and my Uncle was a steam engine engineer dating back to just before World War Two and was exempted from military service as was my dad, but Dad decided to join the Navy and served aboard a fletcher class destroyer in the Pacific theater of operations.
Dad returned home and worked for the Pennsy again for awhile, until he and my uncle went into the fiberglass boat business.
The company was first known as Crosby Aeromarine Boats.
Later the nme was changed to Midwestern Industries Hydrodyne boats.
In 1963 First Lady Jackie Kennedy ordered a custom built Hydrodyne for a gift to her husband, President John F Kennedy.
Ironically it rolled off the assembly line just two hours prior to his death in Dallas Texas on November 22nd 1963.
It was put into storage until awhile later when the Secret service showed up to tow it to Washington D.C.
Apparently Mrs Kennedy never used it, and the secret service used it for family outings on the Potomac.
Where it is today ( if it still exists) is unknown to any of my relation.
We also built a custom built offshore racing boat for US astronauts Gordon Cooper and Gus Grissom.
The boat was named "Miss Firebird" and the Pure Oil Compny was their major sponsor
It had dual controls and the Pure Oil Company Firebird was emblazoned on its front deck.
They ran a race on the Mississippi river from New Orleans to St Louis Missouri with it.
We have a review of this locomotive coming in the May issue.
The tender is a tight fit on the frame, but it gets easier after you've removed it a few times.
Whatever you do - DO NOT remove the screw holding the trucks on. There is a nut on the other end that may come loose. On the sample I worked on, the nut that came loose was the one under the TCS motherboard. To reattach the truck, I had to remove the motherboard, being very careful of its fine wires.
Fortunately, it all went back together fine.
Eric