Lack of time, lack of money, lack of vision. I have a room 11 x 23 and have it drawn out on paper in a 2 foot grid. Thinking of only using 11 x 15 as layout space. The more I read, the worse I get. Now I am thinking double deck with a helix.
Maybe I ought to just start something and go with the flow.
Robert H. Shilling II
SeeYou190Too bad Canadian National never owned a Baldwin RF-16, because Rapido would have already made us a beautiful model....
You're probably right about that, Kevin.
How bad were the ones from Model Power? I had several of their FA/FB units, and while they weren't as accurate as later offerings (especially those from Rapido), they didn't look all that bad to me. They were also excellent runners, with a huge can motor that could handle a lot of extra weight, making them excellent pullers.
I still have four of these, all-powered, despite no longer modelling the diesel era, and another 4 or 5, also all powered, in various factory paint schemes and undecorated, too, stored in boxes...
I modified these two into an FPA-4/FPB-4 set, and regret selling them, even though I have no use for them....
If the contours of the nose weren't correct or the shape of the windshield was wrong, it never bothered me. They were great runners and fantastic pullers, too. The Model Power Sharks used the same drivetrain and motor, and some of my FAs, if I recall correctly, had the same underframe as was used in the Sharks, narrowed at the front end.
With some wire grabs and a few other details, I'd guess that you could come up with a decent representation...better, in my opinion, than not having one at all.
I changed the body panels to better match the real FPA-FPB-4s, along with the fuel tanks...
Wayne
Too bad Canadian National never owned a Baldwin RF-16, because Rapido would have already made us a beautiful model.
.
STRATTON AND GILLETTE management desperately want an A/B set of these locomotives, so I hope if they ever do get made, an undecorated DC set is an option.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
rrebell steemtrayn We can have this... this... a but we can't have this... You aren't going to like this but just saw one a week or so ago. Looked at it because I admired the work but didn't need it
steemtrayn We can have this... this... a but we can't have this...
We can have this...
this...
a
but we can't have this...
You aren't going to like this but just saw one a week or so ago. Looked at it because I admired the work but didn't need it
Brass, right? I have an A-B-A set, factory painted from Oriental, but I'm waiting for someone to mass produce them in plastic. The excuses I get don't make sense to me, when those other limited interest units are being made. (Which, by the way, is a good thing.)
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
steemtrayn We can have this... this... and this... but we can't have this... WHY????
and this...
WHY????
Not knowing what I don't know. At least when I find out what I don't know it is easily fixed.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
SeeYou190What is eating at you right now?
Gilbert Grape
I just looked again,
1- Athearn PA, which I guess is too "old" I think they 40's and 50's
1- Bachmann GP38-2 with DCC, I have a couple of these, they run great for the money.
1- Athearn SD45, also good runners, and good DCC conversion candidates.
All painted and lettered for the D & H, and all under $60.
Mike.
My You Tube
Harrison Did I mention that I am looking for 4-axle, 1970's and 80's locos? Maybe I am to picky.
Did I mention that I am looking for 4-axle, 1970's and 80's locos? Maybe I am to picky.
Should be plenty of 4-axle loco's for that time frame on Ebay. A few examples that come to mind:
Atlas GP38 GP40
Proto 2000 GP7/GP9/GP30/GP38
Athearn blue box and RTR GP35, GP40-2
Athearn Genesis GP40-2, GP9
I'm not up on GE loco's but some can offer makers of 4-axle versons of them.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
mbinsewi Harrison Trying to find good running D&H locomotives for less than $60!? There are a couple on Ebay right now, Athearn, Atlas. Mike.
Harrison Trying to find good running D&H locomotives for less than $60!?
There are a couple on Ebay right now, Athearn, Atlas.
Harrison
Homeschooler living In upstate NY a.k.a Northern NY.
Modeling the D&H in 1978.
Route of the famous "Montreal Limited"
My YouTube
Did I mention that I am looking for 4-axle, 1970's and 80's locos?
For trains or in general? If trains, getting each piece of track wired with feeders. I hate wiring! At least I have a process for doing it that makes sense to me.
HarrisonTrying to find good running D&H locomotives for less than $60!?
Trying to find good running D&H locomotives for less than $60!?
Last basement progress photo's was from about a month ago, here are current:
Silverliner266 steemtrayn We can have this...WHY???? This drives me crazy, one of the brass manufactureres even went as far as to make one of these in N scale but no one has ever done a Reading T-1. I would pay good money for that just to have a Ramble on my layout.
steemtrayn We can have this...WHY????
We can have this...WHY????
This drives me crazy, one of the brass manufactureres even went as far as to make one of these in N scale but no one has ever done a Reading T-1. I would pay good money for that just to have a Ramble on my layout.
You'll probably gey your T1 before I get my BP20.
Not real nuts, but enough to get me going on it. A caboose shortage. The track is all in and working, I've been enjoying running trains. There is room for 6 trains in staging. Only 3 cabeese on the layout, and 4 box shaker kits in storage. So today, (Wed) I got 'em out, glazed the windows, put Kadees and metal wheels on them and got 'em on the rails.
Dr Wayne: Those Korber Roundhouses leave a lot to be desired, don't they? I framed mine up with tight grained wood cut on a table saw. Expanded to 6 stalls, it's not complete, but is in use on the layout. My roof is removable in 2 sections; the front section and the larger rear section. Dan
Renegade1cSince its 22 years old now I'm not sure a trip back to digitrax is going to help.
Have you looked into firmware upgrades, Renegade? I was having trouble getting my Duplex throttles and UR92s to play nice then I sat down and went through the firmware upgrade procedure one night and that solved a whole lot of problems.
http://www.digitrax.com/downloads/
or
https://www.dccguy.com/?p=4398
I don't know if this will help you with your exact problem but it might be worth looking into.
Good Luck, Ed
What's driving me crazy is that my signaling system all of a sudden started showing wierd signals aspects (green over green, green over yellow). Founnd out it's actually an issue with my digitrax command station. Apparently I have somehow overload the buffer in it. It's also having a hard time consisting for some reason. Since its 22 years old now I'm not sure a trip back to digitrax is going to help. I was able setup a temporary stand alone loconet minus the command station and everything worked perfectly. Now I need to decide if I want to separate the block detection and signaling from the actual train control DCC and have two isolated loconet connections or upgrade to a new command station.
Colorado Front Range Railroad: http://www.coloradofrontrangerr.com/
Track fiddlerYeah. Coming home every night waiting for my track and it's not there
Um, don't you have a tracking number for your track?
Nearly all shippers provide them these days. Hope it arrives today!
Cheers, Ed
TIME, the lack thereof!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I was right smack in the middle of installing my small roundhouse when I had to stop for a vacation trip to China. I left it just a bit further along than this:
Two weeks left before I get home to continue work.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Great! It looks like a nice clean and dry area.
I did the furring strip, only from the layout up, not all the way down, insulated between the strips, because the top two courses of block are above grade. From there down it's poured concrete. I figured the extra little bit of insulation wouldn't hurt, than I drywalled it, and finished it, and painted the back drop on that.
I only WISH I would've done the ceiling.
Well, if I was going to let something drive me crazy, like Wayne said, it would be a short walk.
But, I'm pretty calm and pragmatc most of the time.
I would like to get started on the actual layout construction, but work is really busy, and the track plan is not quite done - hope to finish that up real soon. I'm expecting to be able to begin benchwork in the spring.
My new to me basement is unfinished, well it has painted block walls and a painted floor......
I do plan to install some sort of ceiling system, like a drop ceiling but different....more on that later. I would never install drywall on a basement ceiling of house I plan to live in - it is an invitation for repairs that require cutting holes in it........
And I will not be framing any walls, or installing any drywall. What would that accomplish other than subtract nearly a foot from the length and width of the space?
The layout will be around virtually all the walls, and I will install backdrop material on furring strips, or directly on the block walls from the benchwork up.
No need for insulation down there, the whole basement is below grade, it is comfortably warm in winter, and cool in summer just the way it is.
Ready to get started as soon as time allows......
Sheldon
Well,I retired 6 years ago with grand visions of a large version of the Western Maryland Thomas Subdivision. One thing led to another and I finally got a new building constructed, wired, heated, ACed and finished last May. It's 14x16 rather than the planned 20x30 but I can live with that.
What's driving me nuts is the pace I'm making on the layout. I have the benchwork up and all the cork down and sanded. My work bench is done and the paint booth awaits a new blower. It seems every time I start working something gets in the way. Allergies, bad back, family obligations and a ton of other things. Seems like every time I make plans to get out there something comes up! Just can't win! But it still beats the daily grind of the airline and aircraft!
oldline1
Yeah. Coming home every night waiting for my track and it's not there
TF
What's driving me crazy right now? I've been opening up manufacturer's original boxes containing HO RTR or built kits of rolling stock, safely stored, only to find broken detail parts, couplers off, etc. Looks like I have my work cut out for me and I hope that I have enough glue to get it all back into place on the models!
Russ
Modeling the early '50s Erie in Paterson, NJ. Here's the link to my railroad postcard collection: https://railroadpostcards.blogspot.com/
riogrande5761 rrinker riogrande5761 Not being able to build a layout because the basement isn't finished yet and it's a big job. That's what is eating at me for about a half a year now. As my British wife says, just "soldier on". Change it to almost 5 years. Oh and first I have to "unfinish" the basement, and I'm right there. --Randy What do you mean unfinish it? Do you have to rip out drywall? We are making good progress. The frustration is it's a bit like "a watched pot never boils" - the pot does boil but sometimes perception is it takes a lot longer than we would like and we get impatient. Aug - Oct 2018: Electrical, plumbing and pre-rough inspection stuff was completed while other working was being done on the house and taking precident. Nov: Permit to finish acquired. Early Dec: started drywalling: Early Jan: most walls drywalled: Those beams and vents boxed in on the ceiling (seen in 2nd photo) are all drywalled now as well and all metal corners installed - some of them mudded. Instead of drywalling ceiling, installing suspended (drop) ceiling to keep access to wiring and plumbing easier. Plan to install 2x2 troffer lights.
rrinker riogrande5761 Not being able to build a layout because the basement isn't finished yet and it's a big job. That's what is eating at me for about a half a year now. As my British wife says, just "soldier on". Change it to almost 5 years. Oh and first I have to "unfinish" the basement, and I'm right there. --Randy
riogrande5761 Not being able to build a layout because the basement isn't finished yet and it's a big job. That's what is eating at me for about a half a year now. As my British wife says, just "soldier on".
Not being able to build a layout because the basement isn't finished yet and it's a big job. That's what is eating at me for about a half a year now.
As my British wife says, just "soldier on".
Change it to almost 5 years. Oh and first I have to "unfinish" the basement, and I'm right there.
--Randy
What do you mean unfinish it? Do you have to rip out drywall?
We are making good progress. The frustration is it's a bit like "a watched pot never boils" - the pot does boil but sometimes perception is it takes a lot longer than we would like and we get impatient.
Aug - Oct 2018: Electrical, plumbing and pre-rough inspection stuff was completed while other working was being done on the house and taking precident.
Nov: Permit to finish acquired.
Early Dec: started drywalling:
Early Jan: most walls drywalled:
Those beams and vents boxed in on the ceiling (seen in 2nd photo) are all drywalled now as well and all metal corners installed - some of them mudded.
Instead of drywalling ceiling, installing suspended (drop) ceiling to keep access to wiring and plumbing easier. Plan to install 2x2 troffer lights.
Well, it's currently finished into 4 areas, the laundry area is still bare cinderblock, but the other 3 rooms each have a different pattern of paneling, nailed right to some 2x3s, no insulation, no proper header and footer. And the floor is carpeted with a disgustingly dirty carpet that has to come out, and there is a drop ceiling but the tiles look like they are ancient, or at least very dingy and stained. SO it all has to come out, so I can put up proper walls and do it right. i WISH it was completely unfinished, that would have been much easier to deal with. Oh and in one section there is a really crappy bar. Liek REALLY bad, not worth doing anything but taking a sledge and some crowbars to. After I remove the plumbing to the sink - inlets only, there is no drain! It just runs out on the floor (or I guess the put a bucket there).
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
eaglescout Don't close on the new house until February 14th. Have plans drawn for the new layout but itching to start construction. Plan to box in a back corner of the garage to cut down on dust and that I am able to climate control.
Don't close on the new house until February 14th. Have plans drawn for the new layout but itching to start construction. Plan to box in a back corner of the garage to cut down on dust and that I am able to climate control.
Sounds like a good plan to prepare the room for the layout before building. No basement? How big is the layout area going to be?
I knew I would have at least a year after closing before I could start on my layout. Looks like it's going to be around 18 months but the house was neglected and bank owned when we bought it and we knew there was going to be a lot of money and time invested from the git-go.
doctorwaynea few days ago, I decided to re-visit that stalled project. While it's going well-enough, I'm also going through Evergreen strip styrene at an alarming rate (over $130.00 worth last week). I hope that the additional stuff that I ordered at that time comes in soon, or the project will soon stall again.
Gasp! That's .... that's ... that's a lot of styrene! But bless you Dr Wayne for helping keep the good folks at Evergreen in business.
Dave Nelson
PS the punster in me can't help note that if you are going to "stall" on a project, what better project for stalls than a roundhouse?