I am wanting to start putting some of the kits I have together, I've run into the problem of the weights coming loose, would gorilla glue work to hold them on?
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
I do not know the properties of gorilla glue very well. I do know that Walthers Goo over time gives off a gas which ordinarily doesn't matter but for certain kits I built where the weight was, in essence, "sealed" in the car (tank car for example, and a boxcar with non opening doors, and other examples, over time the gas given off by Goo actually caused bulges. So when using Goo the idea is to drill some small and inconspicuous holes so the gas can escape. I remember posting something about that years ago in these Forums and the late Andy Sperandeo from MR posted a reply saying, in essence, "we warned you about that but you did it anyway" (he wasn't being nasty; Andy knew me).
In the event Gorilla glue gives off gas the way Goo does, small gaps or holes would prevent the bulge problem I experienced.
I also know that double sided tape "works" but I had some rather old double sided tape where the tape gave way at some point and now the weight is loose. So I cannot testify about the long range virtue of double sided tape (the white foamy kind, not the very thin transfer tape).
Depending on the kit it might be possible to construct braces of strip styrene over the top of the weight that in turn are cemented to blocks of styrene cemented to either side of the weight, rather in the manner that open loads of sheet sheet are secured to flat car decks. I know of some boxcar kits where that would work. Not tank cars.
Dave Nelson
I think Gorilla glue needs water to activate it. Never used it, but I have, over all of your life time, struggled with weights coming loose.
Lately I have been trying silicon caulk. I have no long term data on that.
Believe it or not epoxy can loosen over time, unless you drill holes in the metal plate so it oozes over the top. Well that's doable but a pain in the caboose, and you lose some weight.
For extra weight, I have used bird shot with both epoxy and CA. Both stick well to installed weights.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Gorilla glue expands as it cures. Use a very small amount and clamp the weight until the glue is fully set.
.
You will never get it apart again.
Or... just use some Gel type Super Glue!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I've used Gel Super/Crazy Glue didn't work, then again some of my first kits had their weights come loose, I reglued with the same Gel Super Glue and I don't think they've come loose again, so maybe just do another application?
I use E6000, a clear thick adhesive that cures with no adverse effects on styrene plastic. It has an Arona when applied but when dry is odorless. It is waterproof. I get it at Walmart in paint and hardware or I'm sure it's also available at Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace Hardware stores. The tube is gray in color with "E6000" prominently labeled.
I frequently glue fishing weights in boxcar at the interior ends (out of sight) and this is my standard adhesive. Use a toothpick to apply as the opened tube opening is 1/4 inch and the stuff will come out more than is needed.
Cedarwoodron
I have some e6000 I was concerned that it might deform the frame. But if you've used it without issue I'll try it.
have you ever used shoe goo?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
If the weight is inside the car where thickness doesn't matter use this:
https://tinyurl.com/ydgdfyfq
If, say it is a box car or hopper car where the weight is between a sub frame and the car floor or slope sheet, black or clear silicone RTV is my choice. Just a dab, you don't want it oozing out the edges.
Good Luck, Ed
I used shoe goo on other non MRR projects
DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone:
Inexpensive and holds very well. Works great on cork, track, metal, wood, plastic, etc. Readily available at your local home improvement or hardware store.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I would suggest cleaning the metal weight before gluing with any type of glue. I have had weights come in the box with cutting oil on them.
BMMECNYC I have had weights come in the box with cutting oil on them.
And a light coat of paint doesn't hurt after the cleaning, either. I've had some get completely covered in rust. Of course, the Athearn Blue-box hopper weights are exposed from the ends so an appropriate car-color is good there.
Regards, Ed
I have been using GE Silicon caulk for years. Holds everything I have ever glued to it. You can get things apart if you do a little prying. And the residue can be rubbed off with your fingers.
Caulk sounds good, I'll pick up some tomorrow, now I have an Accurail twin bay hopper that has the weights mounted on the underside of the hopper but if I looked at it a eye level I can see the weights, perhaps some matte hobby paint in a close match color would be a good idea to hide the silver weights?
In the past, I've used silicone sealant, epoxy, and contact cement, and found none to be permanent, especially when cars were stored, on their sides, in their boxes.
Screws work well for flat steet weights, but for custom-cast lead weights, I use strip styrene, affixed with solvent-type cement, to "trap" the weights in place...
The lead weights oxidise, and while glue, silicone, and epoxies will stick to the oxidation, the lead eventually separates from the oxidation, leaving the lead rattling around in the car and the oxidation firmly affixed to the floor. Rusting steel weights can suffer the same fate, but I've not had any further problems since using the styrene strip method.
Wayne
gregc have you ever used shoe goo?
I tried a new method with super glue, I brushed thinner liquid super glue over the frame and then did a bead of gel back and forth on top of the liquid, seems to be working!
I've always used Gel style CA (Super Glue) made by Loktite.
The trick is that both the weight and the model need to be clean.
The other trick, is that you need to hold the weight in place tight and firm until the super glue is set. (Without gluing anything to your fingers! Thats the real trick...)
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
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