In my opinion a person stops growing intellectually when he discards new ideas without giving them any consideration. I'm 77 and I refuse to do it.
ED,
LOL, LOL, Maybe on some things.........
Take Care!
Frank
I learned at a very young age that old people can be wrong, too. Now that I'm an old person, I'm living proof.
Ed
UNCLEBUTCH NWP SWP Do not use a Cratex block! The finest grit is only 250! If you are going to use an abrasive at least use 1000 or greater! If you want a rubberized abrasive use this: http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Sandpaper_and_Finishing_Papers/Fret_Erasers.html they go up to 8000 grit. It appeares that any one can give advice about anything. Starting to question the creditablity of all advice given here
NWP SWP Do not use a Cratex block! The finest grit is only 250! If you are going to use an abrasive at least use 1000 or greater! If you want a rubberized abrasive use this: http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Sandpaper_and_Finishing_Papers/Fret_Erasers.html they go up to 8000 grit.
It appeares that any one can give advice about anything.
Starting to question the creditablity of all advice given here
I hear You........do You think maybe I should throw My 68yrs. of being in HO scale out the window and do what is being said? I Don't think so......LOL
I was 8yrs. old then back in 1950......prior to HO, I had American Flyer for a couple yrs. Found out about HO and was hooked.......I am 76 now.....been around many blocks in My life.....a lot of them more than once. And the best way I ever found to keep track conductive and clean was to polish it, after cleaning......period... I also had brass track layouts and did the same with Brasso. As with all remedies, it can be time consumming......how much time are You willing to spend? In this day & age.....most people are looking for a fast easy fix. These conversations have been going on since I got into the Hobby and more. I do what works for Me.
I use the same sanding pads I use when I turn pens on the lathe...
https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SOFT-TOUCH-SANDING/dp/B000H6EC4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522366668&sr=8-3&keywords=12000+grit+sandpaper
They go up to 12000 grit and truely polish the railheads
Gary
I use a small sanding sponge that comes with the LikeNew headlight restoration kit I think it is 1000 grit on 1 side and 2000 grit on the other.
I also use a stainless steel washer on the railheads and use 71% iso alcohol.
NWP SWPDo not use a Cratex block! The finest grit is only 250! If you are going to use an abrasive at least use 1000 or greater! If you want a rubberized abrasive use this: http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Sandpaper_and_Finishing_Papers/Fret_Erasers.html they go up to 8000 grit.
With the No Ox treatment the rail has to be so clean that only the rail molecules are on top-nothing else. The No Ox actually penetrates (infinitesemly) into the metal to inhibit future oxidation. A mild abrasive, followed by an alcohol cleaning, as described in the blog, lets the rail accept the No Ox. This may sound weird but my experience, as well as quite a few others, shows it works. Take it or leave it, I'm just throwing it out for consideration. Until on board battery power comes to HO I think it's worth a try.
And the reason for using an abrasive is.............?????
Do not use a Cratex block! The finest grit is only 250! If you are going to use an abrasive at least use 1000 or greater! If you want a rubberized abrasive use this: http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Sandpaper_and_Finishing_Papers/Fret_Erasers.html they go up to 8000 grit.
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
Just because you can't see scratches, they are still there. There is an abrasive block called Cratex (think super fine BB) that's available at Walthers that may leave scratches but they are much, much finer. After careful cleaning then apply No Ox (available from Bar Mills) BUT ONLY if you follow instructions carefully (read all of this:http://www.nscale.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-18676.html .) Then, other than an occasional vacuuming you might never have to clean the track.
Both.
I have a very fine grit slider car, and a CMX.
And yes, the CMX is heavy... But that's a good thing!
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I finally plunked down the money for the CMX cleaning car after hearing so many positive things about it. One caveat, though. It's a hefty car. I needed two locomotives to push it around my layout.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
7j43k Brakie, So, you're assuming that, if there are scratches too small to see, that there isn't a problem. 'Cause, as I said, there ARE scratches. Ed
Brakie,
So, you're assuming that, if there are scratches too small to see, that there isn't a problem.
'Cause, as I said, there ARE scratches.
Ed,If those scratches are small enough to need a microscope to the X thousandths power I'm not concern..
I wasn't even overly concern with Athearn's old BB sintered iron wheels that sparkled going down the track.You can bet the farm I was certainly not worried about brass wheels on brass track back in the day.
Ed my friend, I came up in the dark ages of the hobby and know what works and what doesn't.
The BB is not a evil thing..I been using them for 60 years with no issues.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Count me in for alcohol and a cheap rag. That worked much better than the BB. I'm all for quick and cheap and get both done with the rag.
ROBERT PETRICK Obviously, the best scratches are on N-scale Peco Code 55 flextrack in a modern era DCC system. Scratches on HO Code 100 Atlas track steam-to-diesel era transition DC systems are not nearly as good. I think everyone will agree with that. Robert
Obviously, the best scratches are on N-scale Peco Code 55 flextrack in a modern era DCC system. Scratches on HO Code 100 Atlas track steam-to-diesel era transition DC systems are not nearly as good. I think everyone will agree with that.
Robert
You might think so, but I've noticed that there's a big difference depending on whether you run steam or diesel.
Of course, Shay's are the absolute best. Especially the 3 and 4 truckers.
Elbow Grease!!!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Finer than 1000 at least but really shoot for the 8000 it's as fine as you can get.
NWP SWP The reason abrasives cause more problems is because Bright Boys are only about 250 grit, 600 grit sand paper is still to coarse, there's a block of rubberized abrasive that is used for guitar polishing that goes up to 8000 grit, at that fineness it would have more of a polishing effect, smoothing out any scratches... So abrasives are not inherently bad but the fineness of the grit is.
The reason abrasives cause more problems is because Bright Boys are only about 250 grit, 600 grit sand paper is still to coarse, there's a block of rubberized abrasive that is used for guitar polishing that goes up to 8000 grit, at that fineness it would have more of a polishing effect, smoothing out any scratches...
So abrasives are not inherently bad but the fineness of the grit is.
I agree. When I sharpen my chisels (or other cutting tools) I finish up using 6000 or 8000 grit on the edge. I get a mirror finish.
When the crud is bad use the bright boy, then follow up with finer grits.
Paul
LINK to SNSR Blog
7j43k BRAKIE From where the sun now stands I will use a bright boy forever...I will have to see those scratches with my own eyes. If you PM me your e-mail, I'll send you the pictures. Ed
BRAKIE From where the sun now stands I will use a bright boy forever...I will have to see those scratches with my own eyes.
From where the sun now stands I will use a bright boy forever...I will have to see those scratches with my own eyes.
If you PM me your e-mail, I'll send you the pictures.
Ed,I'll have to see them on my track.. I been using a bright boy for six decades and yet to see scratches on my rail with my naked eye or with my glasses on..
Even when I use alcohol I clean the switch frogs with a BB.
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
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I'm beginning to realize that Windows 10 and sound decoders have a lot in common. There are so many things you have to change in order to get them to work the way you want.
Trainman440"Which way is the best way to clean track?"....
In my opinion (borne out by my experience) - dont!
If your layout is in a clean environment, an occasional simple vacuuming of the track will obviate the need for actual track cleaning. I cleaned my track after ballasting (mostly to remove any dried-on white glue), using an abrasive block meant for cleaning contact points. Some ballasting was done just recently, but the majority of the layout has been in place for over 20 years, and that's the only track cleaning I do.
The layout room is in my basement, and used mainly for only that purpose. Finished walls and suspended ceiling, concrete floor (vacuumed more often than the layout or track, but never swept), and a door for the room. No heating or air conditioning, but well-insulated, so only a few degrees variation between summer and winter.
Wayne
Both actually. Bright Boy followed by a rag with isopropyl alcohol.
When things get bad and I don't have the time, a little hair clipper oil. I then try to get the isopropyl alcohol rag out as soon as possible to clean up the "black crud" from the clipper oil.
BigDaddy Trainman440 Does the abrasive block cause more dirt to build up from the little scratches? Get a wood block , some 600 grit or finer sandpaper, and a cell phone. Take a picture of your track. Run the sand paper block back and forth over a small section of track, 10-20 times Take a picture of your track. Rub your bright boy back and forth, the usual number of times you would to clean the track Take a picture of your track. Blow those pictures up and tell us if there are scratches.
Trainman440 Does the abrasive block cause more dirt to build up from the little scratches?
Already did it, pretty much. Except that I used the model railroader's best friend: a Bright Boy.
Yes, it does leave scratches. And I have photos to prove it.