I was given some HO rolling stock for free and it is all good stuff that I will keep. my problem is I now have some covered hoppers that have the same number on them. I'm not good at decaling and probably couldnt find anything that would match at my local LHS. What does anyone out there in a similar sutuation?
Bruce
Paint out the numbers and repaint them. Railroads re-number stuff all of the time. Or you could print white numbers on a black background. Paste them on the cars.
Or maybe your railroad bought second hand cars and would need to re-number them, and put your own road name on them.
or
This one uses the NYCT Independent Subway font.
ROARING
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Decaling isn't difficult and is a very usefull skill to know.
Micro Scale http://www.microscale.com/ sells alaphabet/number sets. your LHS can get them or you can buy direct.
The MicroScale numbers are, in most cases, probably close enough in size and font that you can get away with just changing one or two individual numbers. The hardest part of doing this is removing existing numbers without damaging the paint. Wheathering can often be used tdisguise slight differences in the numbers or damageto the paint
You could also "patch" part of or all of entire car number. See Lion's comment) Paint out existing number and replace it with decaled number. The patch could be in a color close to the original car color, but it doesen't have to be. Explanation - the number had become unreadable or the car was renumbered .
The other possibility is do nothing. Unless you need individual numbers for switching operations, you are probably the only one who would notice.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
If you don't like to decal, or don't like the look of an isolated decal on a painted and lettered car, I have dry transfer sets of letters and numbers in white in various sizes for just this purpose. There is usually something close enough to the size and appearance of the model's lettering that I can rub out or gently scrape off the last number and replace it. Be aware by the way that some railroads, such as the C&NW that I model, did not always number consecutively but rather had a series that was all odd or all even numbers - so if you are removing a final "2" you might want to replace it with a "4" or "6" not a "3" or "1"
Woodland Scenics has (or had last I needed any) dry transfers in typical railroad type fonts in both black and white.
If your hobby or craft shop does not have dry transfers try an office supply store.
Dave Nelson
I have three Athearn BB GP40's, originally all with the same number. Running them together in a single lashup all with the same number bothered me. Athearn (and just about all other makers) use paint for lettering and numbering on models. Which means that anything to remove the painted on numbers will also attack the under lying paint job.
I simply brush painted over the old numbers. Floquil's B&M blue was a perfect match for the Athearn factory B&M bluebird paint, and the painted over patches are just about invisible. Then I decaled new numbers onto the painted patches. The Microscale decals were a good match for the factory numbers.
Successful waterslide decal application starts with cutting the decal free of its sheet with scissors. Trim them closely and round over the corners. Soak in water (distilled water if your local water is hard) until the decal slides free of its paper backing. Slide the decal off the paper and onto the rolling stock. Position it very carefully, and blot up any excess water with a Kleenex. Let the decal dry enough to stay in place. Then apply Walther's Solvaset to soften the decal flim and allow it to settle down over irregularities (like rivets) on the surface. Since Solvaset softens the decal film you must not move the decal after applying Solvaset. If you do, the decal will tear. Which means double check the decal position before applying Solvaset. Let the decal dry thoroughly, at least overnight, preferable a couple of days. Then give the dried decal a light coat of DullCote to blend the decal film into the paint and make it disappear.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Bruce,
Just an FYI. If you make your subject title more descript, you'll generally get more folks to view it. A generic title such as "Help" or "Need help" might cause some viewers to not bother to open a thread; while a specific title will draw their eyes to it.
FWIW...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Instead of using paint for the background of the patch, consider using a decal, instead. Then apply the numbers over it.
No brushmarks. No OOPS. No making it too big in an effort to rescue it. And you can even remove it if it doesn't work.
Microscale makes a number of colors in full solid-field decals. About 50. They're listed as Trimfilm.
Ed
Thanks for the replies, I think I will try a dry transfer number, I I will check with my LHS and see if they have what might work, if not I may just leave it alone for now.
I prefer decals. Try transfers are unforgiving of mistakes. If in the wrong place or crooked they must be removed and replaced. Decals can often be adjusted before they set. Decals also work better on curved surfaces and over 3d details like rivets ridges.
one thing i've done for open cars is to make one loaded one empty or with different loads , it works for me as i have hidden storage yards and keep a running log of what cars are on what tracks.
DSchmitt...Decals also work better on curved surfaces and over 3d details like rivets ridges.
While I use decals when necessary, I'm a big fan of dry transfers. I've found that after you burnish dry transfer lettering to the best of your abilities (I use the slightly-rounded tip of a pair of tweezers), it's possible to further "set" them with application(s) of Walthers Solvaset. As with decals, don't touch the lettering while the Solvaset is working.
Wayne
Decaling's pretty much the only solution I was gonna come up with although I remember one of our posters, Lone Wolf and Santa Fe came up with an idea to renumber rolling stock by changing the last couple digits in the car number by closely changing the number with paint the same color as the number and a small brush. For example turning a "3" into an "8"
I had a similar situation when I found a deal on a dozen coal cars I thought I just couldn't pass up. They all were numbered the same but I solved the renumbering dilemma by just applying a heavy dose of weathering (dirt, rust, coal dust and grime etc).
Modeling the Chicago Great Western and Milwaukee Road along Minnesota's Cannon River Valley.