Overmod Just to clarify something: when you say you've been frustrated for 'a couple of days now' that your engines slip instead of pulling... does that mean this behavior just started a couple of days ago, or that you just started running N scale stuff on a new layout and observe it?
Just to clarify something: when you say you've been frustrated for 'a couple of days now' that your engines slip instead of pulling... does that mean this behavior just started a couple of days ago, or that you just started running N scale stuff on a new layout and observe it?
I'd echo the suggestion to check car weight. Harbor Freight sells a fantastic little electronic scale for ten bucks:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-gram-digital-scale-60332.html
I'm a car inspector at our club (which, unfortunately in this case, is HO), and we require all cars to be able to roll unassisted down a 2% grade. Common causes for high resistance are dirty wheels, worn or badly seated axles or truck frames, and wheels touching the carbody. I've had some luck swapping plastic for metal axles on some cars. We also reject cars that are more than 1/4 oz or so over- or under-weight.
HTH
Aaron
mbinsewiI didn't either Larry, but after checking out teir web site, some of the steam locos they sell use traction tires.
Mike,That I didn't know because I never owned a Kato steam engine.
Thanks for the information.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
You could motorize the tenders! You could disguise it so it looks like a normal tender but in reality it's a booster! That'll increase pulling power! Now I'm just casting out there no idea what I'll catch!
Steve
If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough!
I'm not at all familiar with N scale steam, but if the bodies are plastic, you may be able to add some weight.
The thread in this LINK shows how I added weight to HO scale Athearn Mikados, notoriously poor pullers right out of the box. Unless you really want to go into this project in depth, I'd suggest that you skip the first part and scroll down to the replacement of the air tanks. While N scale will limit the size and weight of replacement air tanks, they'll definitely be heavier than plastic ones. You may also be able to add weight in the steam and sand domes and perhaps some in the cab, too. Lead shot will work in the domes if you're not comfortable melting and pouring lead. Secure the shot with either ca or epoxy.
If you want to cast lead weights for the cab, there's information on that, including making simple moulds, HERE
I often run my steam locos doubleheaded, and sometimes use pushers, too, as my layout has lots of 2.5% grades. You mentioned that you prefer to use a single locomotive, but the real railroads used as many as needed to get a train over its division. If new traction tires don't improve the situation, keep in mind that doubleheading gives you a perfectly good reason to buy more locomotives. "Less is more." won't cut it on the railroad.
This old girl (locomotive-only is about 13.5oz.) is good for about 20 cars on level track...
This Bachmann Consolidation can handle about 40 cars on level track...
...but it takes two of them to move 12 loaded hoppers and a caboose up the grade to the second level...mind you, the trailing cars' total weight is 100oz., as I use "live" loads.
Here are some Bachmann Consolidations getting lead-filled air tanks. Note, too, the lead filings in the domes. After the filings are added, they're secured with a generous application of ca...
Wayne
BRAKIEI don't recollect Kato using traction tires.
I didn't either Larry, but after checking out teir web site, some of the steam locos they sell use traction tires. They are at the top of the parts list.
I always associated traction tires with the old train set Bachmann's, Tyco's, etc, that only had 2 axles powered, that's why I questioned the tires when the OP said is locos were Kato.
Too bad the OP can't figure out a way to add more weight.
Mike.
My You Tube
When I was in N my Atlas engines would easily pull 15-20 cars on the level.
I don't recollect Kato using traction tires.
Ya know you could "lighten" your rolling stock, make sure they all weigh the same (unless you want to simulate stringlining) only use metal wheelsets, tune the sideframes, maybe add a small toothpick tip of Vaseline or the like to the axle "bearings", all that "should" help train lenght, add some bullfrog snot and that should do it!
Doesnt the scale your in dictate train length?
I mean N a FEF might pull one or two dozen cars, HO it might pull two maybe three dozen, O you could probably pull 4 to 6 dozen or even more! Would you guys agree?
It sounds like you are modeling N scale steam.
.
When I was in N scale (appx 1982-1995), my steam locomotives would not pull squat. My best puller was a Bachmann 4-8-4, but it was an unreliable runner, and its longest train was way too short for a 4-8-4.
This was part of my decision to move the era to 1968. That, and the wonderful SD-40, GP-30, GP-35, and GP-40 models Kato had readily available in undecorated. One Kato GP-30 could outpull a double headed steamer in N scale.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
marksrailroadYes Mike. As far as I know they're all wheel drive. Heritage is made by Life Like but is more like Kato as far as its quality is concerned. I'm not sure of the track radius but the curves are nice and wide. I'd like to see the locos pull at least fifteen or twenty cars but I'm afraid twelve is about the limit. And yes, all of the locos have traction tires...
OK, so I did find Life Like's "Heritage Steam Collection", and I just looked at Kato's site, and seen the proceedure for re-aligning and replacing their traction tires. I didn't know about any of this, as I know nothing about N scale, except that it is way to small for me .
I guess Frank said it all. Looks like you'll have to add another loco to your trains, since you can't add more weight.
They have traction tires more than likely because they are light and the MFG'er couldn't find any room to add more weight either......... unfortunately Your train out-weighs the engine by a pretty good margin. You can add all the bull snot You want and it still won't do any good. Like a small pick-up truck trying to pull a loaded tractor trailer...it just ain't going to happen........the pick-up will just sit there spinning it's wheels.......add more weight to the pick-up and you'll tear the drive line out.
Take Care!
Frank
mbinsewi marksrailroad They're Spectrum, Heritage and Kato models. And by the way, they're N scale OK, so these locos have all wheel drive? And who makes Heritage? I know nothing about N scale locos, but, what are the radius and track situation of your layout? And what were you expecting, as far as how many cars you could pull ? Mike. EDIT: I've never known Spectrum or Kato locos to have "traction tires". They are all wheel drive, and weighted good, for pulling the maximum number of cars.
marksrailroad They're Spectrum, Heritage and Kato models. And by the way, they're N scale
OK, so these locos have all wheel drive? And who makes Heritage? I know nothing about N scale locos, but, what are the radius and track situation of your layout? And what were you expecting, as far as how many cars you could pull ?
EDIT: I've never known Spectrum or Kato locos to have "traction tires". They are all wheel drive, and weighted good, for pulling the maximum number of cars.
MisterBeasley What kind of wheels, axles and trucks do you have on the rolling stock? I've replaced all of my old plastic wheel models with trucks equipped with Intermountain metal wheelsets. I took a Micro-Mark truck tuner to the axle bearings as part of the replacement process. (I'm not sure if they make N scale truck tuners.) Anyway, that effort allowed me to pull around much longer trains.
What kind of wheels, axles and trucks do you have on the rolling stock?
I've replaced all of my old plastic wheel models with trucks equipped with Intermountain metal wheelsets. I took a Micro-Mark truck tuner to the axle bearings as part of the replacement process. (I'm not sure if they make N scale truck tuners.) Anyway, that effort allowed me to pull around much longer trains.
NWP SWP For steam you could do double heading, mid train helpers, end of train helpers... For diesel you could do multiple units on the head or distributed power by the use of mid train or end of train helpers... For both, you could do a steamer and some diesels on the head with either steam or diesel (or both) mid or end of train helpers... For electric just about the same rules as diesel... Now if you're an industrious fellow you could add weight to your motive power! PS my gator (RSD-15) is HO...
For steam you could do double heading, mid train helpers, end of train helpers...
For diesel you could do multiple units on the head or distributed power by the use of mid train or end of train helpers...
For both, you could do a steamer and some diesels on the head with either steam or diesel (or both) mid or end of train helpers...
For electric just about the same rules as diesel...
Now if you're an industrious fellow you could add weight to your motive power!
PS my gator (RSD-15) is HO...
IRONROOSTER Spinning drivers means either too little weight in the engine or too much weight/resistance in one or more cars. Check the weight of the cars. The NMRA recommended weight for N scale is 1/2 ounce + .15 ounce/per inch of car body length. So a 3 inch car would be .5 + (3*.15) = .95 ounces Try putting track on a board 8 ft long and elevate one end of the board 2". This gives you a 2% grade. See if your cars individually will start and roll down the hill on their own. If some won't set them aside and use only cars that will. (If they all roll down, try it at 1" - this is a more rigorous test) Good luck Paul
Spinning drivers means either too little weight in the engine or too much weight/resistance in one or more cars.
Check the weight of the cars. The NMRA recommended weight for N scale is 1/2 ounce + .15 ounce/per inch of car body length. So a 3 inch car would be .5 + (3*.15) = .95 ounces
Try putting track on a board 8 ft long and elevate one end of the board 2". This gives you a 2% grade. See if your cars individually will start and roll down the hill on their own. If some won't set them aside and use only cars that will. (If they all roll down, try it at 1" - this is a more rigorous test)
Good luck
Paul
hon30critter marksrailroad I checked the traction tires on all of the locos and they're all good. I wonder if the traction tires have dried out or hardened over time, or maybe they need to be cleaned? There is stuff called 'Bullfrog Snot' (I have never tried it and I didn't choose the name!) that you paint on a couple of rims. I guess it's like having brand new really sticky traction tires. The possible downside is that if it works too well it could cause the motor to stall which won't do anything any good. Dave
marksrailroad I checked the traction tires on all of the locos and they're all good.
I wonder if the traction tires have dried out or hardened over time, or maybe they need to be cleaned? There is stuff called 'Bullfrog Snot' (I have never tried it and I didn't choose the name!) that you paint on a couple of rims. I guess it's like having brand new really sticky traction tires. The possible downside is that if it works too well it could cause the motor to stall which won't do anything any good.
Dave
marksrailroadThey're Spectrum, Heritage and Kato models. And by the way, they're N scale
SouthPenn Is it possible to add some weight to the engines?
Is it possible to add some weight to the engines?
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
dknelson How difficult is it to move that string of cars with a finger? Maybe your trucks are not sufficiently free rolling. Sometimes there is even a mechanical bind where a wheel flange rubs against a bit of detail on the underframe. Dave Nelson
How difficult is it to move that string of cars with a finger? Maybe your trucks are not sufficiently free rolling. Sometimes there is even a mechanical bind where a wheel flange rubs against a bit of detail on the underframe.
Dave Nelson
NWP SWP I have an RSD-15 it cannot haul more than a dozen cars up the helix at the club... maybe add another loco...
I have an RSD-15 it cannot haul more than a dozen cars up the helix at the club... maybe add another loco...
jrbernier Mark, What brand/model engine and how steep are the grades on your layout?
Mark,
What brand/model engine and how steep are the grades on your layout?
I can recall more than a few model locomotives in HO where 10 or 15 cars was indeed the maximum limit -- example, AHM diesels where only one truck was powered (and had traction tires).