I use Atlas track nails to affix my track to the roadbed. The nails hold the track securely. Additionally, I nail my roadbed (Flexxbed) to the plywood base with wire nails so I can make changes to my track layout easily and neatly. If the track does not have nail holes such as the Peco code 83 flextrack I use on part of my layout, I simply drill out the ties about 6" apart with a #60 drill bit to accomodate the Atlas nails.
cedarwoodron With respect to using the DAP Alex Plus caulk method, what is the "set time" in general needed and should you pin (t-pins) the track in place after applying the caulk and positioning the track segment? Also- is there a "too much vs too little" rule regarding caulk application? And one further question- should switches be caulked as well or left floating between regular track segments? Cedarwoodron
With respect to using the DAP Alex Plus caulk method, what is the "set time" in general needed and should you pin (t-pins) the track in place after applying the caulk and positioning the track segment?
Also- is there a "too much vs too little" rule regarding caulk application?
And one further question- should switches be caulked as well or left floating between regular track segments?
Cedarwoodron
I use caulk on the straight and diverging routes just past the frog, being careful not to foul the underrail electrical connections. It holds the turnout just fine when soldered to the other tracks that are also secured to the roadbed.
AFIAK, I wouldn't want to use a nail too close to the frog either.
I think either method of track securing works well. When I use 3/4 plywood or MDF as the subroadbed, I end up bending nails or working too hard to drive the nail into the wood when securing the roadbed.
- Douglas
I'm still old school I use 1/2" HO spikes from Micro Engineering every third tie. The spikes and ballast glue holds the track firmly in place.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I've used caulk for my past 3-4 layouts and I realy like it. Beige works well for desert layouts with dirt ballast and it holds the track but still allows adjustments if necessary.
I do, Rich. The DAP Alex Plus will adhere to pretty much anything:
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
rrinker Firm believer in caulk, after the first time I tried it (being skeptical of just reading about things without having tried it myself), was the last time I used nails.
Firm believer in caulk, after the first time I tried it (being skeptical of just reading about things without having tried it myself), was the last time I used nails.
Rich
Alton Junction
It's fast, there's no chance to damage the track with an errent hammer blow, you can lay track and not affect equipment already on the layout (no earthquakes), and done right (VERY thin bead - it should never ooze up between the ties), it is easy to remove track without damage, even turnouts.
I do my sighting down the track and/or application of straighedges and templates before the caulk sets up - perhaps the only disdvantage is if you do let the cualk set up and then need to align a section, you will have to pull it up and put down a fresh bead of caulk to try again. Aligning as you go avoids this.
And, it attaches the track to the roadbed without any physical connections like a nail to transmit sound to the next layer down.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Initially, i didn't secure the track down to the cork. I then added wet water that held the ballst down and kept the track secure. Along a larger cuve, I drilled holes for ME track spikes.
Adhesive - I prefer DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex Caulk.
I spread it thin with a putty knife and it allows ~45 mins. of adjustment time before it starts setting up. Cures in 8 hrs (although I let it go for 24) and holds VERY well but remains flexible; unlike Elmer's glue. Can be removed with a slow, steady, prying up motion using a stiff putty knife but it does take some effort. Been very happy with it.
I use track nails as well. Easy to hide when painting and ballasting, and it is a lot easier to shift and relocate track with nails than it is with caulk. The one downside to track nails is that they show up when using a mini-cam to video your trains running around the layout.
I use track nails into pre-drilled holes in the plywood subroadbed.
Paul
Hello everyone. I was just reading an old article in an old train book that talked about the various options of securing your tracks to your layout. Of these options they include nailing it down, pinning it down with sewing pins and/or gluing it down. I personally went with pinning mine down with sewing pins which was easy because the layout is built on top of a one and a half inch thick foam board like those used to insulate houses. So far it's worked very well. When one of the pins gets loose I just dip it in Elmer's white glue and stick it back in place and it doesn't give me anymore trouble. So what other methods are there if any ?.