Automatic transmission fluid...ran into an on-line video where a Q-tip is dipped into the fluid and then rubbed along 1 -2 inches of rail in several location around the layout. And then when you run trains, the wheels pick up the fluid at the different locations and spread it around the track. The claim is it lasts up to 6 months.
Anyone ever try this?
Hre is the link to the yuotube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmOPOcxXPjE
Bear "It's all about having fun."
This was the subject of an article in the May 2011 issue, on page 58.
But to answer your question, I've not tried it. Im partial to the gleaming and polishing method.
Modeling whatever I can make out of that stash of kits that takes up half my apartment's spare bedroom.
I did not know that. I have the issue and will track down the article.
bearmanAnyone ever try this?
There are 2 current threads on this:
ATF on the Rail's Cleaning Car's For Sale
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/263149.aspx
No Silver Bullet
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/263407.aspx
I've not tried it but I am of Randy's opinion that liquids on rails cannot be a good thing.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
That's why I asked if anyone had tried ATF, since I am also not a big fan of smearing liquid on the tracks. I'll check out the threads.
bearman,
cudaken and I both have tried this over a month ago. In two months of running he has not had to clean the wheels on his layout. I have also tried Marvel Mystery Oil on a second set of tracks, and have had the same results as the set I used the ATF on. I do not run the sets as often as Ken, but I was having some challanges with ash from my wood stove creating surge spots on the layout. To date, no surges, and no dirty wheels, don't ask where everything goes---don't know, don't care--everything works----all I need!
herrinchoker
I have reveiwed the MRR May 2011 article and the two threads on this forum. It appears that results are mixed. There are some who swear by ATF and some who pull out the strands of garlic and silver crucifixes if you mention the term. Why am I not surprised?
There are two things I absolutely hate about the hobby, cleaning track and ballasting track. With ballasting track the end is in sight. Once you finish you are done, so I have managed to aproach ballasting as an excercise in Zen. Cleaning track is a whole different story. I probably will go out and get a quart of ATF, apply it in a couple of judicious locations on part of my layout and run a train over the course of a few days and monitor the results.
bearman There are two things I absolutely hate about the hobby, cleaning track and ballasting track.
There are two things I absolutely hate about the hobby, cleaning track and ballasting track.
Rich
Alton Junction
Yeah, Rich, only two. I can live with all the other aggravations because usually the fix is one time and can be accomplished fairly quickly. Although, admitedly, trying to figure out the fix may take some time. When it comes to cleaning track "Ive Been Working On The Railroad" takes on a whole new meaning.
PS: A balky ground throw is also up there.
bearman Yeah, Rich, only two. I can live with all the other aggravations because usually the fix is one time and can be accomplished fairly quickly. Although, admitedly, trying to figure out the fix may take some time. When it comes to cleaning track "Ive Been Working On The Railroad" takes on a whole new meaning. PS: A balky ground throw is also up there.
Maybe this is the beginning of a new discussion thread. What are the three tasks in order of priority do you hate to do?
bearman Maybe this is the beginning of a new discussion thread. What are the three tasks in order of priority do you hate to do?
richhotrain bearman Yeah, Rich, only two. I can live with all the other aggravations because usually the fix is one time and can be accomplished fairly quickly. Although, admitedly, trying to figure out the fix may take some time. When it comes to cleaning track "Ive Been Working On The Railroad" takes on a whole new meaning. PS: A balky ground throw is also up there. I'll add trying to lay flex track straight and true to my hate list. Rich
I'll add trying to lay flex track straight and true to my hate list.
I have a metal yardstick which I lay the flex track against when putting it down. You can't get any straighter than that.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Phoebe Vet I have a metal yardstick which I lay the flex track against when putting it down. You can't get any straighter than that.
I cut an old aluminum yardstick down because I needed a piece of flat aluminum. I guess it's now about 22" long. I also have a 12" adjustable square, so that piece of aluminum is removable and a 6" steel rule.
NO-OX-ID A-Special
No oxidation- electrical continuity..................Done
A little bit little bit. A little bit goes a long way.
I have a four-foot level. Its four sides are as straight as they come. I pick one, force the tie ends against it and then sight down the rails to see if they are indeed straight. I will have placed a thin coating of latex caulk down first and let it set up for about 15 minutes. Once the tracks are straight, they tend to stay that way with the tacky caulking under them.
Well, yesterday I bought a qt of ATF and applied it to a few places on my mainline. I have been running a train over the main and two sidings that did not receive an application of the ATF and so far there is no stalling or flickering headlights on the main or on the sidings. I thinkthis might work.
But I am a little troubled about one possible issue which has been raised in this thread, and that is where does the black gunk go? The Law of Conservation of Mass means that it goes somewhere or it stays there someplace which raises the further question that if it stays there, then will there be a catastrophe some time in the future?
"The Law of Conservation of Mass means that it goes somewhere or it stays there someplace which raises the further question that if it stays there, then will there be a catastrophe some time in the future?"
Mass can take many forms, as the periodic table will show. Just because black guck forms in Condition 1 doesn't mean it must be present, or created and distributed, in Condition 2.
bearmanBut I am a little troubled about one possible issue which has been raised in this thread, and that is where does the black gunk go?
Bear When I run my finger on the ATF treated rails I get a little black on my finger. But I got the same thing before I treated the rails with ATF!
No matter where the gunks go, as long as it is not sticking either Engines or Rolling stock wheels who cares!
My short line has been ATF treated for 4 months and the layout has never ran this good.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
cudaken bearman But I am a little troubled about one possible issue which has been raised in this thread, and that is where does the black gunk go? Bear When I run my finger on the ATF treated rails I get a little black on my finger. But I got the same thing before I treated the rails with ATF! No matter where the gunks go, as long as it is not sticking either Engines or Rolling stock wheels who cares! My short line has been ATF treated for 4 months and the layout has never ran this good. Cuda Ken
bearman But I am a little troubled about one possible issue which has been raised in this thread, and that is where does the black gunk go?
I can appreciate if it works don't fix it. In fact, I did a treatment on my mainline and where there were some headlight flickers and a couple of stalls before, now the trains run without complication. But that gunk is not disapoearing. Only time will tell about what will happen with it. Near as I can figure out, and based on the MRR articale noted in another post, it seems that it is somehow suspended in the ATF. Only time will tell if this is a good fix or if all of a sudden some other bigger problem pops up. When? Who knows?
richhotrainI'll add trying to lay flex track straight and true to my hate list. Rich
I find the old "eyeball it" still works quite well.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIE richhotrain I'll add trying to lay flex track straight and true to my hate list. Rich I find the old "eyeball it" still works quite well.
richhotrain I'll add trying to lay flex track straight and true to my hate list. Rich
richhotrainThe crossovers are a big culprit in causing the flex track to waver. Rich
True dat and very tricky with the eyeball method.
richhotrain Larry, I wish that were true. No matter how hard I try, I cannot lay perfectly straight flex track. A big part of my problem is that I have a double mainline with several crossovers. The crossovers are a big culprit in causing the flex track to waver. Rich
Larry, I wish that were true. No matter how hard I try, I cannot lay perfectly straight flex track. A big part of my problem is that I have a double mainline with several crossovers. The crossovers are a big culprit in causing the flex track to waver.
Rich, the actual culprit is the distant between your main lines in parallel...it isn't the same as the two parallel approaches to the four ends of your double-crossover.
If you attached the four ends where the crossover is affixed (so that it can't budge at all), you can then 'string out' each length of flex and run them parallel with a template.* If using caulk, you'd apply that, lay the lengths of flex approximately, and then both align them and straighten them, using a four foot carpenter's level or even a longer framing level if you have the room in there to swing it. The caulk will take at least 30 minutes to fully set up, so the few minutes it would take to get those four parallel tracks aligned would be fine.
*I use a scrap 1" X 5" piece of plywood and cut four parallel grooves in it to match the spacing of the ends of the crossover. Sliding that along the tops of the parallel flex, and also using that four foot level, gets it about 99% of the way there. If you can, get out beyond and look back to see if you are correct.
selector richhotrain Larry, I wish that were true. No matter how hard I try, I cannot lay perfectly straight flex track. A big part of my problem is that I have a double mainline with several crossovers. The crossovers are a big culprit in causing the flex track to waver. Rich Rich, the actual culprit is the distant between your main lines in parallel...it isn't the same as the two parallel approaches to the four ends of your double-crossover. If you attached the four ends where the crossover is affixed (so that it can't budge at all), you can then 'string out' each length of flex and run them parallel with a template.* If using caulk, you'd apply that, lay the lengths of flex approximately, and then both align them and straighten them, using a four foot carpenter's level or even a longer framing level if you have the room in there to swing it. The caulk will take at least 30 minutes to fully set up, so the few minutes it would take to get those four parallel tracks aligned would be fine. *I use a scrap 1" X 5" piece of plywood and cut four parallel grooves in it to match the spacing of the ends of the crossover. Sliding that along the tops of the parallel flex, and also using that four foot level, gets it about 99% of the way there. If you can, get out beyond and look back to see if you are correct.
You are right in that when the two turnouts are connected to form a crossover, the on center distance between them is narrower than my double mainline.
I have used CRC 2-26 on my track. Works great. Use the same method as ATF.
The only problem I had was putting too much on.
LION has 14 MILES of track. HIm has tried sismilar, and will do so again.
LION will put 4" strip every 10' or so.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
The Return of The LION...havent seen you on these forums in a while.
Since running track straight is a part of the thread. I'm going to bite.
Edit. Accidentally pushed the submit button. So I'll finish with another post.