I have recently purchased a bachmann 2-10-0 used. I know little about the history of this locomotive.
Initially it ran fine, but after a colision with a piece of scenery on another layout (layout owner has some rocks that either protrude into the NMRA gage profile, or Bachmann doesn't pay attention to the profile), the locomotive started having the above symptoms.
I disassembled the locomotive, disconnected the drive train from the wheels. The motor runs just fine, no apparent issues with the worm gear or drive belt.
I carefully inspected the wheels, and noted that the main drive gear appears to have one or more teeth that have a concave shape to them. I believe this is causing the worm to skip a tooth about once per revolution of the locomotive. I can find no other apparent damage to the drive train. The side rods do not appear to be bent in any way, and the power pick ups are in their proper positions.
I have acquired a spare set of wheels with side rods. Should I replace the the wheels as a set or just the center one with the blind flanges (the one that contains the drive gear).
Just send the driver set with the dished gear teeth to the Bachman service center in Philadelphia. Offer to pay for the replacement. Do it before they run out of parts for this locomotive!
If you know that the gears are worn, replace them. They could be part of the problem, but I can't help wondering about what happened during the collision with the 'rocks' earlier. Was a crank bent, an axle split, an axle bent, some minor de-quartering took place, an axle seat was damaged or has dirt in it, any bushings dislodged or misshapen, did something get forced into periodic contact with something rotating due to deformity during the collision? There are so many possibilities. The flywheel has a lot of momentum. Did the collision take place at some considerable track speed, or during a scale drag speed? Maybe the momentum of the mass, suddently forced to spin down to a stop, split or bent something?
Sometimes the clicking can be traced to a backed-out retainer holding rods to their axle cranks. Or to bent rods making contact with protrusions or sloppy rods flailing in the drivetrain. Could the fake piston rod be bottoming out now on the front face of the cylinder...maybe a deformity in the cylinder saddle, just enough that you now hear this click?
Good luck, it will be a tricky one to solve with so many possibilities.
I have already replaced the wheelsets, now I just need to dig out a DC power pack and a section of track. Have one with aligator clips somewhere.
The collision was low speed and the footboard on the pilot was the area of contact.
Forgot to mention, runs smooth as silk in reverse.
Managed to find a DC power pack (recently moved). Locomotive runs without binding, noise is less. Slight click once per revolution, but not nearly as pronounced and the locomtive does not jerk to stop when it happens. Possible main rod hitting the side rods. Will have to look at it again in the morning.
I have a Bachmann 2-8-0 that has the exact same sypmtom as yours. It clicks going forward and seems to run "ratchety" about once per driver revolution. The locomotive is silky smooth when running backward.
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My probelm started when the locomotive was running forward pulling a short train. A truck mounting bolt on one of the freight cars backed out and caught on a grade crossing and stopped the train dead in place. In my case I am sure the problem is not because of a collision, so I never checked side rods, valve gear, or any of the like.
Mine is an original release of the Bachmann Spectrum Baldwin 2-8-0 without DCC or sound. It was my favorite steam locomotive before it failed. It has been back in its box for at least ten years now.
I am interested to hear what you find.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 I have a Bachmann 2-8-0 that has the exact same sypmtom as yours. It clicks going forward and seems to run "ratchety" about once per driver revolution. The locomotive is silky smooth when running backward. . My probelm started when the locomotive was running forward pulling a short train. A truck mounting bolt on one of the freight cars backed out and caught on a grade crossing and stopped the train dead in place. In my case I am sure the problem is not because of a collision, so I never checked side rods, valve gear, or any of the like. . Mine is an original release of the Bachmann Spectrum Baldwin 2-8-0 without DCC or sound. It was my favorite steam locomotive before it failed. It has been back in its box for at least ten years now. . I am interested to hear what you find. . -Kevin .
Kevin,
I found that the gear on the main driver was chipped/severly worn. This causes the ratcheting sound because the brass worm is trying to turn the main gear, but it misses the valley between teeth and strikes the tooth. Replacing the driver set corrected this. I will still need to delve further into the drive train to find the the other noise, which I suspect is a side or main rod striking one or the other.
Repair or replacement page. You can also find the Parts page.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service.php
Some years ago I sent in a two motor HO 44 ton with cracked gear and received a single motor 44 ton DCC ready.
Call or email first to make sure they have the same loco for replacement.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998Repair or replacement page.
I will never send Bachmann a locomotive for repair. Especially if its just parts changing. New set of drivers $18. Send in for non-warantee repair is it $35 now?
Plus they dont actually fix anything, unless you specifically ask. Its cheaper just to pull a new one off the shelf. If you want to be sure you get your locomotive back, DIY, or order the specific part you need and have someone repair it for you.
Be aware that if you send in a steam locomotive for repair and Bachmann does not have that same item in stock they will send you a replacement locomotive of similar value. The usually contact you before they do that, but not always. I sent in a 2-8-0 and received a 2-6-0 in return. It was not the new version either but the old 2-6-0 based on their 0-6-0, the one with the front pony wheels added.