I remember seeing Cody Grivno use this for making windows. The description on their website says it can be used" to form very real looking small windows up to about 1/4 in size". Has anyone ever used it to make slightly larger windows?
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I have used it in the past, but out of necessity I tried 'Weld Bond', which to me made better looking windows. The windows on this N-Scale DL-202, are made using Weld Bond.
CheersSteveNZ
Hi Marlon:
I used it on one building with window panes about 1/4" square. I won't use it again. The reason is that it does not dry flat. The pane it forms is thin in the center and much thicker towards the outside edges. The result is a very distorted view through the window. I suppose that if I were not detailing the interiors that wouldn't matter too much, but I detail my interiors. I know that doesn't really answer your question. Maybe it would look better when used on a larger window, but I would be concerned about how fragile it would be.
There are a couple of options. One is clear styrene. You can get it in .005", .010", or .015" thicknesses from Evergreen. Wear latex gloves when handling it so you don't leave fingerprints.
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm#Clear Sheets
Another is real glass which is available in microscope slide sized sheets from Ngineering. I have tried it but I haven't had any success with cutting it to size. I bought a scriber but that didn't help much (best viewed in Firefox):
http://ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm
Another is to use Tichy windows which now come with glazing included. I have not seen the glazing so I don't know how clear it is but it might be worth exploring.
https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Home.aspx
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter Hi Marlon: I used it on one building with window panes about 1/4" square. I won't use it again. The reason is that it does not dry flat. The pane it forms is thin in the center and much thicker towards the outside edges. The result is a very distorted view through the window. I suppose that if I were not detailing the interiors that wouldn't matter too much, but I detail my interiors.
I used it on one building with window panes about 1/4" square. I won't use it again. The reason is that it does not dry flat. The pane it forms is thin in the center and much thicker towards the outside edges. The result is a very distorted view through the window. I suppose that if I were not detailing the interiors that wouldn't matter too much, but I detail my interiors.
Not quite the same topic, but I completed several small detail kits where I really couldn't get inside for my usual glazing method (clear styrene + canopy cement) because of the way the kits go together (for the record, these are HO brass newspaper vending machine kits, can't remember manufacturer). I had so of planned this a year ago, and purchased some Micro-Mark Micro-Glaze. They come in 2 packs, and I hadn't opened the bottles before yesterday. So I open the bottles of Micro-Glaze, and all that was in there was some brown sticky goop, about 1/4 of the bottle volume. I am guessing the medium was water, which evaporated over the past year (even without opening the bottles).-- Has anyone seen this before with this product?-- If so, has anyone revived it by adding water?-- For that matter has anyone even used this product - from the catalog page: "This item has been discontinued and is no longer available. "...so, maybe not. (I am not going to say it was discountinued because it stank because then someone will say "Polly-S paints")
hon30critter I used it on one building with window panes about 1/4" square. I won't use it again. The reason is that it does not dry flat. The pane it forms is thin in the center and much thicker towards the outside edges. The result is a very distorted view through the window.
I used it on one building with window panes about 1/4" square. I won't use it again. The reason is that it does not dry flat. The pane it forms is thin in the center and much thicker towards the outside edges. The result is a very distorted view through the window.
This has been my experience as well. The windows look bad to my eye in close up photos of the models. I find clear styrene gives me better results. Just one opinion, Mel's methods might work for you...
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Hey Mel:
RR_Melafter slopping the window maker in the window frame turn the window upside down to dry.
I'm guessing that by "upside down" you mean to put the window 'face down' to dry. I will give that a try.
Thanks,
hon30critter I'm guessing that by "upside down" you mean to put the window 'face down' to dry. I will give that a try. Thanks, Dave