45 years and 10 layouts and never held an airbrush! I'm ready to paint my track but fear messing up, well, everything. Going to practise on some scrap track set on spare foam [my choice for roadbed] but a 3' test bed seems hardly enough. I could use some pointers. Would like to avoid the expense of a compressor for now if possible. Thanks, Scott
Years ago as part of preparing for a clinic I gave on track I took a lot of prototype photos and noted that the dark rust color from track can be seen on the ties, tie plates and even the ballast in the vicinity of the track itself. So don't worry too much about paint that hits things other than the side of the rail itself.
I also noted that particularly near crossings where it is not easy to maintain the ties and ballast, that there tends to be "pumping" action (you have seen that as a heavy train passes by) that often pumps up a lighter color (often tan) of mud onto the ties and ballast and tie plates. That can be simulated with your airbrush after the initial painting.
I assume you have already done the soldering of the wire to the sides of the rail. Best to do that before painting.
At turnouts you may want to use small bits of tape to prevent paint from insulating between the points and the stock rail, if that is important to electrical conductivity on your turnouts.
Since you cannot have the work in a vented spray booth you should consider investing in a respirator type mask -not just a "hospital visit" type dust mask, but one intended for paints and solvents and chemicals. The cannisters that provide the protection age slower if kept in a sealed plastic bag after use. That respirator would be useful even if you more typically use rattle cans.
When painting track I put a light oil on a Q-tip cotton swab and run it lightly on the top of the rail. That makes it much easier to wipe paint off the top of the rail although now and then a bit of paint needs more elbow grease.
If the layout already has scenery and structures or a backdrop, you may want to create a false backdrop of newspaper or cardboard to catch any errant spray.
No matter how thoroughly I thought I painted the side of the rail, I always seem to miss a spot or two. There are various "paint sticks" that can be used for touch-up, so of course it is best to use a weathering color that is at least close to one of those touch up sticks (I use Testors but they probably don't make them any more in the rail weathering colors).
Those are just some random thoughts.
Dave Nelson
Scott,
I have airbrushes, but rarely use them. Painting track is a rather low precision project for the basics, so ideally suited for rattle cans, although you can certainly use an airbrush for more detailed features.
Here's some colors I've used. Not sure if Mode Master is currently available or in these colors, but try MM 1954, Light Earth (FS 30140), MM 1992, SAC Bomber Tan (FS 34201), and a dark "smoke" color I don't have a reference number readily available for that's nice for emphasizing hard working locos laying down some cinders ate certain spots, etc. Some are using Rust-Oleum 1917 Khaki Camoflauge.
ALWAYS wipe the railtops as you paint, never go more than 3 feet or so without doing that or it makes it much harder to clean up. I use a 8" long section of 2x4 on its edge, wrapping a paper towel around, as a wiper, moving/replacing the paper towel often. Tape or otherwise protect switch points. Use newspapers or other protection against overspray. Use good ventilation, plus PPG as Dave recommended for any extensive work.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I prefer a brush for painting track - a 1/2" chisel-type, with fairly stiff bristles, works well, as it holds lots of paint, and the shape gives decent control around turnouts, where some areas need to be paint-free.There are a couple of other advantages to using a brush: painting track is with a brush is actually quite relaxing, as there's no need to get it all done at the same time. Got only 10 or 15 minutes available before suppertime? You could easily paint 10' or 15' of track, both sides of each rail, in that time, then rinse out the brush, cap the bottle, and go eat. (I'm not saying that because of clean-up time for airbrushing, either, as it's a two minute task at most.)My around-the-walls layout has about 200' of mainline, plus passing tracks in seven towns and a lot of industrial trackage, too. I often take photos with the camera on the layout, facing the tracks from either the aisle side or from on-layout facing the aisle - unpainted rail on the normally-unseen side of the track would stand out in an embarrassing fashion. Also, I'd rather not use an airbush and especially not a rattle can when it's more-or-less aimed in my direction in order to paint those normally-unseen sides of the rail.Spraying with either also wastes a certain amount of paint - more with the rattle can, obviously. While you can mask-off some things, spending a lot of time (and tape) doing so, the sprayed paint which dries before alighting on anything is a form of dust. Dust is the main reason why people spend so much time and effort on cleaning track. I use a dry rag over my finger tip to wipe the dry, but not yet hardened, paint from the rail tops, doing so after 10'or 20' of track. The only time that I clean track is after ballasting and/or adding scenery near the track - usually, those operations take place at the same time, so I've had to clean track only that one time in over 20 years.Yes, not all dust comes from spray painting track, and a clean layout environment is an important part of controlling the amount of track cleaning you'll need to do. I do, once or twice a year, vacuum the track and structures as required.Either spraying or brushing is, of course, your choice, but I truly do find it to be a relaxing task, especially after a lousy day at work (now long in the past for me. )
Wayne
Wayne,
I can see the brush working for lots of folks, so a worthy method for consideration.
In order to contain the messy aspect, I saved up until I had most track in before I rattlecanned mine. It was an all day project, mostly clearing stuff out and taping turnouts. The paint time was surprisingly short (the layout is at least twice as big as what you see here), about 2 hours, with the need to clean the rails as you go the limiting factor . I ran all the fans for this one.
I used Rustoleum Camoflage series 1918 Earth Brown and liked it, though I have yet to add ballast and weathering.
On the turnouts, I taped the throwbar and points but not the whole moving point rails (which pivot at rivets on my code 83 walthers-Shinoharas). I was too heavy handed with the spray paint for this approach, creating some sticking points when dried. It took some working back and forth to rectify this Could have prevented the problem if I'd thought about not just masking the point contacts themselves and been more careful about the freedom needed for the point rails to slide across the ties.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
choochoosamcandi1987Would like to avoid the expense of a compressor for now if possible.
Are you thinking about using canned air? Depending on how much track you have, you may save yourself some money by just buying a small compressor. Many are available for less than $100. I would not be surprised if $100 worth of cans wouldn't do all the track on a modest sized layout.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Paul,
I think being a little lighter on the paint would solve the issue with it hanging up the points, at least with Shinohara. I'm pretty concientious about that and haven't had any significant issues.
Good tip on the Earth Brown. It's another alternative in the range found at different locations. Think what the mud would be like where you model and you'll be close to what looks good on the track.
I do enjoy the large size/cheap nature of Rust-O and other full size cans. And the endless nature of air from a compressor that Carl noted is an advantage there. But I want to put in a good word for the small hobby-size cans that Model Master, etc produce for this specific task. The can first of all does away with dragging the hose over the layout as you work. But the short can work particularly well for shooting what you want on the track and limiting overspary, because it lets you get right down on things as you paint.
I've actually been surprised by how much track I can paint with one of the little cans. Sure, they're more costly, but for this particular purpose, it's a convenience cost I consider well worth it.
peahrens I used Rustoleum Camoflage series 1918 Earth Brown and liked it, though I have yet to add ballast and weathering. On the turnouts, I taped the throwbar and points but not the whole moving point rails (which pivot at rivets on my code 83 walthers-Shinoharas). I was too heavy handed with the spray paint for this approach, creating some sticking points when dried. It took some working back and forth to rectify this Could have prevented the problem if I'd thought about not just masking the point contacts themselves and been more careful about the freedom needed for the point rails to slide across the ties.
^ This.
I used the Rustoleum Camoflage Earth Brown and like it. Hand brushing track sounds like too much work and the rattle can worked very nicely. I'm a noob at that aspect and it's pretty user friendly, fast and easy and it looks great for a base coat to cover rails, ties etc.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I use a propane tank and air tank conversion kit to provide a source of portable compressed air. Open the windows wherever you are airbrushing, go to another room and put a box fan in the window so it blows air into your house. Close all other windows so fresh air gets pumped into the house and the fumes and paint dust gets blown out.
I spray from 4 directions to ensure complete coverage: from the front of the track and down about 30-45 degrees...left to right at about a 45 degree angle, then from right to left at a 45 degree angle. Repeat for the back side of the track (yes, spray the back too while you're at it...easier to do it now than later, especially if you want to photograph your layout in the future). This will paint all sides of the ties (if your ballast doesn't quite cover up the unpainted side and ends of the ties) and will paint both sides of the spikes (if you spray at a right angle to the track, there is a possibility of paint not getting the sides of the spikes).
I used to paint all trackwork RR Tie Brown then weather it but I now use a 3 step process. I use weathered rail flextrack from micro engineering so the sides and top are already a 'base' color but if not (their turnouts do not have weathered rail), I paint the sides of the rail from a low angle...as parallel to the ground as possible so more paint gets on the sides of the rail than on top of the ties...but it's ok if the ties get painted. Once the rails are dry, spray the ties a light grey color...it's ok if the sides of the rail get painted but spray as straight down as possible to minimize it. Once the grey dries, at least 24 hours, use a oil paint wash to color the ties. Tube paint is cheap (a little goes a long way) and odorless turpentine works well. Squeeze some tube paint onto a piece of scrap styrene or something and pour some turpentine into a shot glass or similar container. Scoop up some paint with a brush and swish it around the thinner to make a wash. If it's not completely mixed it's ok...the thicker the paint the more opaque the color and the more variety of colors of ties. Apply the wash to the track rather sloppily but make sure all grey paint is covered (here's where you cover up any grey over spray on the rail sides). Every 20th or 5th tie, apply more paint to represent a new tie and use less paint for more weathered grey looking ties. Use as many colors of oil paints as you wish...I use burnt umber for a brown color, maybe burnt sienna if I want a more rusty color. Oil washes seem to settle into the cracks and corners better than thinned acrylic paint washes...for me at least, use whatever wash you like. When the oil paint is dry, you could stop here if you like the result. I like to over spray everything with a 'control coat' of RR Tie Brown, thinned so it blends all the colors together. A rustler siding will get the same treatment then I'll mix some rusty color into the thinned RR Tie Brown paint and try to spray just the sides of the rails. This is kind of tricky but since the same family of colors is used (and it's thinned down) it's ok if you aren't that accurate with getting just the sides of the rails...rust (in reasonable amounts) is prob acceptable anywhere railroad tracks due to stray and scrap metal lying around everywhere.
I have tried masking off the ties, so only the rail and tie plates was exposed and painted them a totally different rust color, but the effect was mostly lost during my control coats and the tape (fresh blue painters tape) pulled up some of my RR Tie Brown base color and needed to be touched up (during the control coat phase).
I solder feeders to every rail segment so I don't worry about masking points...I just keep the paint a little thinner around the sliding surfaces of turnouts. If a turnout does bind a bit, a bit of alcohol or thinner on the stuck place and some wiggling break it free. Rub a pencil on the sliding surfaces when the alcohol evaporates and it acts like a lubricant and won't spread out like oils might. Real railroads use lube on turnouts too, just blend the areas with chalks or something if you over did the pencil thing.
Clean the rail heads. I use lacquer thinner on a paper towel or soaked into a bare piece of wood. This softens the paint without scratching the rail. Do it a few times and all the paint will be gone. Polish the rail heads with the finest Emery board you can find (I'm guessing anywhere from 1500 grit to 5000 grit?). It's a little slow going but if the paint is removed, the grit won't get clogged up much.
There are many ways of doing it, this is how I do it; it's easy and I like the way it looks.
http://delray1967.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
SEMI Free-Mo@groups.io
Thanks to everyone for all the good feedback and ideas. I always brushed the rails and left the ties alone on all my N layouts. This is my 1st HO layout and I'm trying different things. I think painting the ties also will create a nice effect, but won't the solvent in the spray cans attack my foam roadbed base? The airbrush would use water based acylics. I was on a 13 year hiatus from actively modeling and haven't caught up on the paint alternatives with the loss of Floquil.
Scott
Rob Spangler recommended Rustoleum Camo brown and it worked great for me. Of course you need to spray from a couple different angles to cover both sides of the rail and ties.
After it's dry, drag a box cutter blade across the rail to strip the paint off the surface. That also was recommended by Rob and it worked great. Some make painting track overly complicated but it doesn't have to be; I found the Rustoleum rattle can worked great.
FYI, I have Atlas code 83 laid on cork and homasote.
Bare foam will be an issue with solvent based paints, some more so than others. You might want to refer back to Wayne's use of a brush, as that would work well in applying acrylics.
For future consideration, you CAN seal foam and then paint over it with standard rattle can formulas. I use a sealer/primer product called Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3. It also comes in standard brush-on form in a can, but I use the rattle can version to prep styrofoam I use for backdrops. Once sealed, you can use any rattlecan over it. In this pic, the mountains are 1" foam hacked quickly into shape, then primed with 1-2-3.
Another possibility for track already down, but I haven't done it so you will have to experiment, is to seal the track and area next to it by brushing a a coat matte medium on. That should keep the spray away from the foam enough to work.
Also keep in mind, you don't want to really hose on the paint here anyway, more like a thorough dusting. Once you have a skin coat of acrylic or matte , that may be protective enough that if you keep it light on the overcoating, you'll be fine. Krylon Colormaster and Valspar Premium rattle cans offer very fast drying formulas that may work well for trying this on a test section to see if it'll work if you want to test the idea.
I would read information on the Rustoleum Camo paints before spraying. But that highlights another good reason to go "old school" and lay your track on Homasote or good old cork roadbed - no worry about solvents attacking.
Now sometimes you can get away with solvent based paints if it is put on lightly and allowed to dry fast. If you'll recall, there have been a number of professional painters who applied Floquil solvent based paints directly to plastic models without the barrier coat - they could get away with it by putting on fairly light coats so that the solvents didn't have time to attack the plastic and it worked quite well.
riogrande5761Now sometimes you can get away with solvent based paints if it is put on lightly and allowed to dry fast. If you'll recall, there have been a number of professional painters who applied Floquil solvent based paints directly to plastic models without the barrier coat - they could get away with it by putting on fairly light coats so that the solvents didn't have time to attack the plastic and it worked quite well.
Exactly. Certainly, caution is in order when coloring outside the recommended mfg's guidance, of course, so your reminder about reading the label closely is a great point. This is a case, though, where that caution actually encoruages better results, as painting the track is at its core a weathering process -- and as with most weathering, a light touch yields better results.
-s-
The Ham-Handed Weatherer