With the yearly train show in Easley, SC coming next weekend and train show season in general kicking off, I can't help but remember my experiences have been mixed. Somtetomes I've gotten great deals, other times gotten burned. I've come to the realization there are some things to buy at shows and some things never to buy. Ve made a little list.
To buy:
Scenery material, details, structures, rolling stock, track.
Not to buy:
Locomotives (unless buying them from a reputable dealer or they're no longer in production), DCC stuff with the same caveat as locomotives, power supplies (unless you can test them).
what would you guys add to the lists?
Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.
www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com
One thing that is always on my "to buy" list is tools (including glues and cements).
Unlike you I tend not to buy track (other than turnouts) because of the likelihood of damage as I carry it around. If I do buy something delicate like track I hope I can get my hand stamped and get the stuff to my car immediately after purchase rather than lug it around the show. Ditto for assembled buildings which I very rarely purchase anyway.
At one show I got an outrageous deal on very large sheets of cork roadbed such as for yards (it was lightly damaged hence the price). I tried to carry the stuff around but it was incredibly awkward to carry (and I was damaging it more) so I got my hand stamped and took it out to the car.
If I buy locomotives it is usually on the basis that I accept an "as is" status and assume it is priced accordingly. Anything I sense I'd want to return if it was defective I tend to avoid.
Dave Nelson
I have had hit and miss luck with locomotives so I agree to purchase from a reputable dealer, only if the locomotive is out of production, and the price is not out of orbit.
I would add to the not to buy list any type of accessories i.e. signals, automatic switches, etc.
All the best.
Reinhard
Joe F
I have been looking for cows to populate my countryside. One manufacturer wants $35.00 for three cows and two farmers! Not a chance I'm paying anywhere near that kind of $ for a few bits of plastic. So behold the junk boxes at the train show, I start lifting out the big stuff and in the bottom I start finding all sorts of animals lying loose in the bottom of some of these beat up cardboard boxes. I don't know what a good wildlife set goes for retail, but I got a good selection, all for 25 cents.
I have also bought beat up used track to practice my feeder soldering on and stuff to practice airbrushing on. Cars and trucks also seem to be cheap at train shows. Jordon products also at give away prices. I don't think I would buy an expensive item at a train show, unless it was from a major local retailer or manufacturer just in case there was a problem.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Anything not factory sealed is a risk.
But if the price is right I take a look in the box. If the major parts are there then I figure I can buy or fabricate small parts that are missing. I've gotten some great buys on locomotive kits, I just make sure that the major stuff like drivers, frames, boilers, cabs, are there plus some assortment of small parts. Some shows have test tracks where you can see if the RTR locomotive runs.
I think it also depends on your approach to the hobby. Do you like tinkering with stuff to get it to work, if so then some of those bargain locomotives are great for you. If you want RTR then test any used/open locomotives before you buy.
I don't pay premium prices for collectibles, but I would do a complete check of contents / operability before buying any.
A lot of the train shows I go to are basically flea markets. Great prices, but buyer beware. And never spend more than you can afford to lose.
Happy hunting
Paul
Most train shows (at least tghe ones I go to) have test tracks for test running locos.My clubs test tracks start with N and go up from there.I have my Z layout at a few shows and offer to rest run any Z that is bought.
Even factory sealed stuff can be over-priced at shows. That's why I like my smartphone to check prices on the intrawebz...
Mark
PS. My 100th post (it only took 13 years )
WP Lives
Hello all,
Going into a train show I set a budget. I use cash for transactions. I take a wide variety of bills; $1.00's, $5.00's, $10.00's, and if my budget is big enough $20.00's.
This gives me better bargaining power. Having the correct change might get you a bundled deal rather than the seller having to break a $20.00 for a $3.00 item. This also gives the seller much-needed change for their bank.
Most sellers will have some way to process your credit/debit card but that usually involves transaction fees that someone has to pay. With cash it's immediate.
Also, be prepared to pay sales tax. Some sellers will charge sales tax while some will charge the as-marked price and pay the sales tax based on their gross sales.
Getting a 10% cash discount might just cover the sales tax that some sellers will charge. Also, not all cash transactions might be declared by the seller for tax purposes .
Knowing the "street price" or value of the item you are looking at is really helpful. At one train show I attended I offered the seller $30.00 for two used turnouts that he had marked at $17.00 apiece.
I knew that I could get the same turnouts for $18.00 each at my LHS brand new. The seller wouldn't bargain so I passed up this "deal" which was no deal at all. The key thing is to not get "spending fever."
On the other hand when you see a deal buy it then not later. I came across a mine structure kit for $5.00 (retail $25.00). I passed it up figuring I'd check out the rest of the show and come back for it later. I realized my mistake, went back less than 10 minutes later and it was gone!
As far as locomotives, the shows I go to have a test tracks set up for the testing of all gages.
There is a table with both DC & DCC controllers. Before finalizing the purchase you take the locomotive over to the test bed; a show volunteer is usually there to help test the locomotive to your satisfaction, and then you make the deal.
Often times the seller will also accompany the buyer in case there are any problems.
Don't be afraid to ask the seller if they have other items that they didn't have table space for. Usually, they will have boxes under the tables that they will allow you to search through.
When searching through these boxes be as respectful to the items as possible. Don't just start pawing through and when done carefully repack the items as found.
At one show I found a Walthers conveyor kit and a piping kit in this way. Neither was damaged. They were marked at $11.00 each. I had a $20.00 bill. I offered him the $20.00 and he agreed saying, "At least I won't have to make change." Score!
I've been to some train shows where everything is marked at or above MSRP and no one was willing to haggle. At other shows I've found that show-gem and got it at a great price.
Knowledge is king in these situations.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Hmm, I've picked up many locos and things like DCC decoders and installation aids (kapton tape, micro connectors, etc.) at trains hows over the years. Even a combo one year - a Bowser FT sound chassis with decoder and speaker already installed.
The key for any train show purchase is to not go in unaware. Have a lit if you are searching for specific items, otherwise have a list of what you already have so as to avoid duplicates because you just couldn't remember if you had that one or not. The program I use to track my inventory (which also generates car cards), I added a report to produce a simplified 'train show list' report listing the make, road name, and number categorized by type, multiple columns so even with several hundred pieces it's only a couple of pages. And be aware of what some of these items are selling for at a reputable dealer like Modeltrainstuff, or for out of production items, somewhere like eBay.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I would add for purchase old train books or possibly memberships to historical societies.
For not purchasing, I suggest fixer-upper anything b/c often the cost of upgrading is more than the time/money spent for getting a new item. When I first went to the Greenburg train show, I got older rolling stock and realized the trouble of upgrading the coupler, trucks, etc.
Call me cheap but if the car's not RTR and under $20, I'm not interested. I don't have the money to throw around. I also have my phone on to check prices and now go in with a list of my rolling stock. Fingers crossed for some great finds at the huge show this weekend in MD.
I have only been to two. To the Nanaimo Train Show three times, and to the Vancouver Train Show once. I have only felt drawn to one display/seller between both of them, and that was art. I have purchased two oil paintings of Canadian Pacific steamers, I think rather well done.
It depends on what you are interested in.
I model 1900-1905. There is virtually NO current production of models for that era. From that perspective virtually everything I buy is used and a fixer upper since that is all there is.
The real trick is knowing the value of the model in question compared to the price being asked. For example, if there is an old MDC old time tank car for sale for $5, I would probably buy it regardless of the condition. I wouldn't really want the car, but those models had Fox trucks, which are out of production, so the trucks are worth more than the model.
On the other hand a Bachmann 4-6-0 that looks used for $50-$75, nope, I'll pass on that one. A brand new one can be had on e-Bay for less than $100.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Most train show stuffing oUT here in southern Ontario and GTA is overpriced and most of the used stuff is junk to C grade. Mind you I did pick up a few box car from the brampton train show last year at 5 dollar a piece and it came with Kade couplers, metal wheels.
The one my club puts on in New Eagle (Mid Mon Valley Model Railroad Club), I've always gone with a list of what I need, which I usually keep to unless I find something I gotta have.
What I've bought- Old Blue box locomotives AFTER I've tested them to see if they run and how they run. I'e gotten a lot of blue box for 30 bucks.
Rolling stock- Know what you want, and the quality you want
other locomotives- Not often, since they usually want upwards of 80 bucks for new Athearn locomotives with DCC only. Plus the usual ones wanting 40 dollars for a dummy unit, 18 dollars for a bluebox caboose,etc.
(My Model Railroad, My Rules)
These are the opinions of an under 35 , from the east end of, and modeling, the same section of the Wheeling and Lake Erie railway. As well as a freelanced road (Austinville and Dynamite City railroad).
I went to a train show just reccently and bought a Kato, Conrail NW2 for $30. I normally never buy locomotives at a train show unless I test them, but in my luck it ran beautifuly when I got home!
Mostly just shadowing what others have said, but this is from expirience.
-Come prepared with a list (at least mentally) of what you want or need.
-Remember that you get what you pay for, with whatever you buy being sold "as is". Unless it comes brand-spanking-new from an official retailer, don't expect the manufacturer to honor a warranty.
-If you see something you are looking for at an attractive price. Don't wait, get it then and there. Odds are by the time you come back from looking around it will be gone and there's nothing you can do about it. And if you find it elsewhere at a better price, some, but not all sellers will accept a return (Be wary)
I bought one used loco at a show, took it home, and WOOPS! it didn't fit my curves!(Should've thought about that beforehand) I took it back to the seller the next day and explained my situation very nicely to the gentleman. After a quick test run and look over to see that I hadn't broken it, he gave my money back. I made sure to purchase some other things from him because he was so kind and cooperative about it, and in no way had to give my money back.
I like to buy things that you can’t find at the hobby store, one of a kind, or white label items, videos, tee shirts, OOP kits, also vehicles, figures, and used rolling stock (if the price is right). I bought an old Athearn SD45 for $5. They threw it in for that price when I bought some other used Athearn freight cars from them. There is always a test track at the shows I attend. The loco ran fine, just no handrails. I put hand rails on it and eventually sold it at another train show for $10. I got a bargain and then when I was done with it I passed it on and let someone else have a bargain. Some sellers want to hit homeruns with every item they sell. When I sell I just blow it all out because I don’t want to take any of it back home.
j..........
For me, it depends on whether I have a local hobby shop (LHS) or not. I used to have two good ones close by. Not any more. But should you have a LHS, I would avoid buying new stuff at a train show that I could get from my LHS. Simply because, if stuff the the LHS doesn't work, or breaks, the LHS will fix it or exchange it. A show dealer is gone when the show closes. Also, your LHS needs the business.
Nowadays, my closest hobby shop is a two hour drive and I will buy stuff at train shows that my layout needs, be it new or old. At least I don't have to pay $10 shipping like I do for E-bay or Walthers. I'm a tinkerer and there is little that can go wrong with train show stuff that I cannot fix. Plenty of old tired train show cars can look very sharp after a coat of paint, some decals, some wire grab irons, and a bit of love and attention. My steam engines all came to me as train show junkers, which with paint, some cast brass details, working lights, glazed cab windows, maybe some neodynenium supermagnets in the motor, and a crew, look good and run good now. And the rebuild projects are fun.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Last train show, just last weekend, no one, not a single vendor, in two buildings, had any glue (CA or otherwise) for sale, nobody was selling tools either, and only a handleful were selling scenery supplies, rather surprising.
Have fun with your trains
If I'm looking for something new I make sure I know the price, including shipping charges.
I have bought many used pieces of rolling stock and had very good luck, only one overweight car that couldn't be opened without major surgery to remove some of the weight. I can see what it looks like (unlike sending for something on ebay) and whether they need metal wheels or KD's. Built structures I can see how well they are made. I've never had a problem with new kits either.
There are risks, but so far I have been lucky.
Go to the show, have fun, look around, get ideas and if you see a good buy consider yourself lucky.
Have fun,
Richard
Basically, I have a mental list, and I know my prices. I'm hesitant to buy anything expensive, as it's generally "buyer beware", so I usually avoid anything non-sealed or above trainset quality, unless it's very rare.
IRONROOSTERAnything not factory sealed is a risk.
One of the vendors at a train show I was at recently, had to have been re-sealing used old stock in plastic to make it appear like new old stock, so be very very careful. I almost dropped $50 on a rare walthers B-unit that "appeared" new, but actually had quite a lot of step damage on the back side. It was very deceptive.
TheWizard IRONROOSTER Anything not factory sealed is a risk. One of the vendors at a train show I was at recently, had to have been re-sealing used old stock in plastic to make it appear like new old stock, so be very very careful. I almost dropped $50 on a rare walthers B-unit that "appeared" new, but actually had quite a lot of step damage on the back side. It was very deceptive.
IRONROOSTER Anything not factory sealed is a risk.
Good point. In these days of cheap sealing machines, you have to be careful. Sealed is not necessarily the same as factory sealed.
I have gotten everything from rail cars, street vehicles, scenery items (including a package deal for Woodland scenics tree kits, at a very good price, that included everything needed, including glue) and structures, (kits only), to tools, glue, and other supplies for scratch building and kit bashing, books, shirts and hats, even a hoodie, up through DCC decoders, speakers, and even locomotives. (Only had one where it needed a little TLC to get it right, but the price made it still worthwhile.)
The shows I have attended, all have always had somewhere you could test locomotives at, somewhere you could test a power supply, and, in one case, a place you could test signals. (So, at this one, I did buy used signals that were proven to work.) All, except the factory new locomotives, were test ran, and worked, or I passed on them. My rule is, unless it is factory new, from a dealer who has a actual shop for handling returns if there is an issue, is that if powered, it gets tested. If they are unwilling, I bypass the item. (One time ever that this has occurred, someone refused to this test, stating that this was an "unnecessary step", and I walked away. Next show, this individual was missing, and I felt that I might have avoided a bad deal.)
I will always have in mind what I am looking for, and what I am willing to pay. Sometimes, I leave empty handed, and other times, I walk away after buying half the show (or so it seems... )
There are times I will find something at a good enough price I just can't leave without it, and there are times that I will walk away from a deal, just because it will be a "get it now, no chance to think" style, and I will bypass it, as I tend to be skeptical of those types of deals. (And once, at the last show I attended, I bypassed a package deal, as it was still over my limit spending wise, even though it was a very good deal. I did thank the vendor for being willing to deal, and did purchase something else from him, while explaining why I was bypassing the offer. Ended up with both of us being able to walk away still happy, and with the knowledge of where his shop was located. I promised that if I ever was in that area, I would stop by.)
So, overall, I don't feel that there is anything that is a "never buy from a show", unless it is overpriced or something that I would never use. Just remember, that is if the above rules of everything can be tested prior to purchase, is followed.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Hi all
When I can get to the show I always have a look at what the second hand dealers have.
Particularly in what I call the junk I am looking for bits to fix older models I have
Many have been fixed that way the garbage left over is waiting for a layout to start its new career as junk yard matierial
I also look at the good models to see if anything is of interest.
The caviet is only deal with a second hand dealer you trust the one I deal with has never let me down
Has even saved some better damadged cars than I have and mine has been used to fix the better one
Iether way as long as the end result is what I want that car usable again and looking complete I am happy
regards John
70% of my locomotives was bought used at train shows with no issues. I inspect the locomotives for usage and broken/missing parts.
60% of my IPD boxcar collection was bought at train shows most came with KD couplers and metal wheels for $4-8.00.
70% of my other freight cars was bought new or used at train shows.
All cars are inspected for damage or other tomfoolery.
I fully agree beware of that new catch phase" New Old Stock". There's no way a gold box LL or a Atlas/Roco locomotive will be NOS. Use your common sense.
There is no reason to fear buying use freight cars that fit your era nor should you shy away from buying quality used locomotives.
Inspect and test run those jewels before flopping your cash down-unless you have a good eye for troublesome locomotives.. Some clues would be missing screws,wrong size screws,wheel wear- that where the nickel silver has worn off the wheel-broken handrails or details from improper handing.
For those old BB locomotives that many of us still cherish my advice on unbuilt kits or used is no handrails no sale..
I bought a dummy BB Family Lines GP7 for $8.00 with all handrails and numbers in the number boards. I placed the shell on a CR GP7 drive.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
kasskabooseI would add for purchase old train books or possibly memberships to historical societies.
Good point!
Not only used, out of print, books but new works too.
There's an author the writes historical books about the Colorado Southern narrow gage that ran through South Park, with a branch to Alma.
He only sells at train shows. Last time I attended the show he was selling at I had already used up my budget. When he saw my interest in his work we struck up a conversation. I asked him if he'd considered a volume about the Alma branch? He told me that one was in the works!
Next time I attend that show I'm going to buy all four volumes, including the new one about the Alma branch.
[quote user="GP-9_Man11786"]
If it's cheap I buy it. I love junk boxes and often barter a price for the whole she-bang. Often I end up with only a few treasures and lots of junk parts that will find their way to good use somewhere. Perhaps in the layout scrap yard or just on the shelf smiling at ya. Never know when a raillroad buddy might just need that broken up water tower for a kit bashing project.
Modeling the Chicago Great Western and Milwaukee Road along Minnesota's Cannon River Valley.
My beef is when they "heat" shrink unboxed rolling stock..the pressure often breaks the stirrups and couplers, and requires an Xacto knife to meticuolusly cut the car out of its wrap.