I'm about finished with Magee's Tire Service, a beginners kit from Bar Mills. Just a few more things to do. I was wondering what would be the best glue to secure the cardboard 'sub roof' to the wooden walls of the structure. White glue, wood glue, Ca or none of the above. In the photo I've creased it and have it lying in place but not glued down.
Jarrell
I think from the looks of things there's no access from below. So you'll need a bead along the top of the walls. You can try slow-setting glues, but the weights to hold them have to be set carefully so as not to shft things from ideal to keep it in place.
Personally, I'd use thick CA in a carefull bead around the top of the walls, then spritze catalyst/kicker/whatever on each of the four sides. That way you can align each wall as it sets. Gotta get it right as there's no going back without a lot of cussing with CA. Some nights I'm good, some nights not so good. YMMV
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
When we were manufacturing laser wood kits, we always recommended Weld-Bond. Works very similar to white glue, but sets faster. The best part is that if you need to remove something, warm it up with a heat gun and the parts easily separate.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Hey Jarell,
Nice job on the first laser kit. Personally, I wood...er, would use either wood glue or the thicker (slow acting) CA for securing the roof to your wood structure.
A couple of other things worth mentioning. I like to have accessibility to the interior of my structures for detailing and adding/replacing lighting. I find it easier to glue the roofing on to provide the needed rigidity for the structure but trim the base/flooring so that the structure is easily removed/installed from the base.
Also, if you plan to (or think that you might want to) install lighting inside your structure at some point, take the time now to paint the inside of it black or dark grey to eliminate light bleed through. You can then paint over the black any color you want your interior to be.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Jarrell:
Good job on your first laser kit!
As far as what glue to use for the roof, I would also suggest Weldbond or something similar. It will give you a little time to position it correctly. As has been said, Weldbond can be softened with heat if you ever want to remove the roof for interior detailing or lighting.
If you use CA, it must be a gel type. The watery stuff will simply soak into the walls. Future removal of the roof will not be possible without damage.
If I can make a suggestion, adding fascia boards to the roof would be a nice detail if they weren't included in the kit. You can get stripwood from Walthers. Something like a scale 2" x 6" board would be perfect.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I bought a Bar Mills starter kit too, I don't remember the exact name, but I sure do hope i do it as much justice as you have here Jerrell!
It is sorta packed away and will now remain so until we get into the new house where I will have a large MRRing space!
I was going to work on it this winter, and maybe I still can.
I plan to use wood glue If I can, and as mentioned, paint the inside black to avoid light bleed through,in case I want to light it at night. i will use cleats on the inside of the roof for easy removal.
Thanks for sharing.
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. The weld bond sounds like it would do the job!
At the risk of taking things in an entirely different direction, what about a series of small magnets at strategic points on roof and building interior so that the roof is removable? Something that nice deserves a detailed interior.
Dave Nelson
This is how I sometimes hold a roof on that I may want to remove in the future. I just use some sort of foam material glued to the inside of the roof. It holds in on snug as a bug in a on a roof.
As far as glue of choice when using paper or cardboard products, I usually use rubber cement.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Jarrell,
Looking Good! I have found that cardboard roofs will warp over time. I would glue in some bracing underneath the cardboard to keep if flat and straight. As for gluing it down you might also consider Aileen’s tacky glue applied sparingly or possibly leaving it loose. With proper bracing to keep the shape correct, this could be an option.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
As good as Bar Mills kits are I got to thinking they surely mentioned something about this in the instructions and I totally missed it. I got the sheet out again and sure enough there's a line that refers to gluing 'unlike surfaces together such as (see photo at my red arrow)
Duh!
They included peel and stick roofing paper that has alignment lines also. I like the suggestion to install braces under the roof so that it will better hold it's shape. Thanks for all the replies and suggestions!
I like to add a strip of thin balsa wood (1/8 square, or maybe 3/16) around the inside top edge of the walls. This gives me a much larger surface for the glue than just the top edge itself, and it also seals the joint so that light doesn't leak out if you illuminate the building. I do the same thing along the wall corner joints.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
For when you get to the more advanced wood kits, on those I have started using styrene for the roofs on some (depending on the roofing being used), much easier to glue on the tiny rafter ends.
That's a good idea too and I'll probably put a strip of wood at the top to help with the glue.
MisterBeasley I like to add a strip of thin balsa wood (1/8 square, or maybe 3/16) around the inside top edge of the walls. This gives me a much larger surface for the glue than just the top edge itself, and it also seals the joint so that light doesn't leak out if you illuminate the building. I do the same thing along the wall corner joints.
rrebell For when you get to the more advanced wood kits, on those I have started using styrene for the roofs on some (depending on the roofing being used), much easier to glue on the tiny rafter ends.
I had thought about making the roof out of styrene, this little shed wouldn't take much. I'm going to try using support strips of wood glued to the underside of the cardboard roof, but if it warps I'll go to styrene.