Hello,
Firstly, thanks you guys for all of you advice and help so far, it is moving my first track layout right along.
I need to know now...What is the best tool to use or the best way to cut a piece of flex track.
My second question is about layout terrain. I am trying to go from a lush green grass to a more "stubbled, spotty" look. Any suggestion of where I can look to get some tips and guidance to achieve this terrain look.
Thanks
cplmckenzie
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I agree with the above a Dremel tool with googles..I will add buy the better cutoff wheel like the 506CU or the 426.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Xuron clippers. Clean perpendicular cut every time. No plugin required. No tie melting due to cutting wheel.
If you are doing it on the cheap, use Xuron rail nippers, and don't use them for anything else as harder metals can damage them.
I've found that cutting rail with Xuron, they still need to be filed bcause the Xuron does not cut it perfectly square - it is left with a bit of a point. So you will need the Xuron plus a file.
For a long time, I have used a Dremel with cut off discs rather than the Xuron I have - I only use the Xuron to cut a large piece of flex down to a shorter piece and then use the Dremel to trim the rail to the exact length I need to fit it in place.
I've found the thin cut off discs break very easily so I used the thicker ones mostly anymore. Another thing to be aware of when you are cutting rail, it can get quite hot from the friction and ties can melt. The precision of a Demel over the Xuron makes it worth cutting that way for me, so I have found ways to mitigate heat issues.
You can pull the sliding rail out if it is Atlas flex, to give it some distance from the ties. You can also use a heat sink to pull heat off if the rail is fixed. I have set of old Radio Shack heat sinks I use for soldering and cutting rail, just clip on and go to work. Easy. Alligator clips work if you can't find the standard heat sink.
I find cutting rail with a Dremel is much preferable to the Xuron despite the precautions needed because of the precision and results I get. I can cut rail very precisely to the exact length I need with the Demel. This is especially important when fitting a section of track into a space between track that is already laid. I wouldn't be able to get it cut to the exact length with a Xuron.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
LION use Dremel Tool. LION mostly cuts track in situ. That is on the layout rather than on the bench. Because of shape of tool, and big furry paw of LION, cut is never vertical, but at an angle. No problem is this worry not about it at all.
LION never own Xuron tool. Ho is it at cutting track in place on the layout. Say you want a gap, or you want to install a switch, or replace a lenght that is not good.
LION solder all rail joints of him. Need to take out a switch or other peice of track, cut the joiner with the Motor Tool, then use solder iron to remove the remains of the joiner. Slip new joiners all the way on the replacement rail, drop it in place, and then move the joiners into place. Job done. If not can do, just solder a bar to the outside of the rail, instant joiner.
ROARING
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Buy the Xuron tool!!!!!!!! Be aware only one side will be flush and the othher pointed. Much more persise than a Dremel unless you have a lot of practice with the Dremel and even then, you can't get a 90 degree cut if track is in place with a Dremel but you can with a Xuron. Most tools, you don't need the brand name for even pro jobs if you know what you are doing (was in the trades for years) but the Xuron is one of the few exceptions, own two!
rrebell Buy the Xuron tool!!!!!!!! Be aware only one side will be flush and the othher pointed. Much more persise than a Dremel unless you have a lot of practice with the Dremel and even then, you can't get a 90 degree cut if track is in place with a Dremel but you can with a Xuron. Most tools, you don't need the brand name for even pro jobs if you know what you are doing (was in the trades for years) but the Xuron is one of the few exceptions, own two!
Rich
Alton Junction
cplmckenzie My second question is about layout terrain. I am trying to go from a lush green grass to a more "stubbled, spotty" look. Any suggestion of where I can look to get some tips and guidance to achieve this terrain look.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GroundCover
I start out with the Fine Turf, then add Coarse Turf, then Bushes and Clump Foliage. A little experimentation will give you the desired look and texture.
When cutting flex track that has not yet been installed I use a Dremel tool with a reinforced cutting wheel -- the "standard" thin discs just shatter too readily. I hold the track near the edge of a table so that I can make a clean 90 degree angle cut.
I might add that I use the MLR solder tool that holds track in place and in gauge while soldering to hold the track near the cut. This gives you something to hold on to that won't get red hot and also seems to minimize the risk of the track going out of gauge due to slightly softened ties.
Here is the MLR solder tool: https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/479-5005
When cutting track already laid I sometimes use the Dremel (and the largest cutting disc I can find) but I do not like the angle that is usually created so use either a saw (Atlas makes a perfectly servicable one; there is also Zona) or a Xuron cutter. I always file the end to make it neat and make sure to file the base as well just to make sure there is no bump for the rail joiner.
When when sawing I like to use a MLR solder tool just to make sure the rail is not being pulled away from the plastic nubs.
Dave Nelson
Xuron tool when cutting free ends for a custom set, but use a cut-off wheel when trimming or gapping rails already set in place.
Reasoning: Xuron is quick, no cords, no rotating disk to accidentally snag or cut items nearby...fingers, tree armatures or branches, ties, grit or ballast grains....etc. Additionally, all cut rail ends should be dressed, if briefly, to ensure smooth running of the tiny scale wheels over them. The top bearing surface of the rail head should have a slight bevel/champher, and so should the inside flange face of the same rail head. It is hard to do this for a gap left by a cut-off disk, but a needle file dragged along the gap will do a bit of what I show in the diagramme below:
Xuron tools #2175B and Xuron tools #2175M vertical track cutter.
The ends of the track need to dressed with a file as in 'selector' post
da1 Xuron clippers. Clean perpendicular cut every time. No plugin required. No tie melting due to cutting wheel.
I saw this being done at a model railroad show demonstration a number of years ago. Few swipes with a file and done. Quite quick and easy. No goggles needed.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 da1 Xuron clippers. Clean perpendicular cut every time. No plugin required. No tie melting due to cutting wheel. I saw this being done at a model railroad show demonstration a number of years ago. Few swipes with a file and done. Quite quick and easy. No goggles needed. Rich
Yep, because Xuron doesn't cut the rail square on both sides, it is beveled so you do need to file it - which is fine. Rail is soft so it doesn't take long to file it flush and even. But even after using the Xuron, I still prefer my Dremel (or choose your brand) with the thicker cut off wheel. That my personal preference after laying quite a bit of track, I always go back to it.
With my Dremel, if I were to cut rail in-place, the cut would be at an angle because I can't get the Dremel parallel with the rail - impossible unless I had a flexy shaft, which I don't. So I always lift the rail and cut it so I can make the cut at a 90 degree angle and the drop it down in place.
riogrande5761With my Dremel, if I were to cut rail in-place, the cut would be at an angle because I can't get the Dremel parallel with the rail - impossible unless I had a flexy shaft, which I don't. So I always lift the rail and cut it so I can make the cut at a 90 degree angle and the drop it down in place.
I fixed that problem with the right angle attachment. I also use the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels which are a larger diameter and make it easier to get a perpendicular cut.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I always size check, mark and cut flex track before I anchor it to the roadbed, so I seldom have to cut in place. For 'midair' cutting, my weapon of choice is a modified pair of diagonal cutting pliers (outer surface filed flat) purchased at Ronstedt's in Tucson long before Xuron tools became available. Like the Xuron tool, it leaves one side flat and the other mangled. Flattening the other cut end requires sacrificing about 1/8 inch of rail, which ends up as a nickel-silver nugget.
Dressing the rail end as Crandell illustrated is absolutely essential to derailment-free operation unless you can align rail ends with the accuracy of a Swiss watchmaker. That's ALL rail ends, even the point heels and closure rails of turnouts...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with trackwork as bulletproof as I can make it)
I also use an Xuron track cutting tool to cut track that has not been installed. Generally no goggles are needed, but if cutting very close to the end of the rail (say within 1/4"), goggles should be worn because the small piece of rail may go flying.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
I use a Dremel with a cutting wheel. Don't forget the safety glasses.
DSchmitt I also use an Xuron track cutting tool to cut track that has not been installed. Generally no goggles are needed, but if cutting very close to the end of the rail (say within 1/4"), goggles should be worn because the small piece of rail may go flying.
Ditto, to all of the above.
Still reccommend safety glasses, even with Xuron rail nippers.
For electrical gap on already installed rail though, Dremmel with the reinforced cutoff disk. Along with safety glasses, and long sleeves... A face shield, if available, would not hurt either...
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
carl425I fixed that problem with the right angle attachment. I also use the fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels which are a larger diameter and make it easier to get a perpendicular cut.
Edit " impossible unless I had a flexy shaft or an elbow attachment. Yeah, I was aware of those too. So far haven't had the need to buy either.
Anyhow, I think we are all set in our ways but the OP should have enough info to decide for himself.
The tool I use to cut nearly all my rail is a set of Wiss aviation shears like these:
They make a nice, clean cut. I much prefer them to rail snips from Xuron and the like.
cplmckenzieMy second question is about layout terrain.
You may want to start a separate thread for that to keep replies from getting jumbled. Also, try to find a photo of the look you're after. I'm not sure I could provide useful advice based on your description as there are so many different variables involved.
Rob Spangler
I have used the cutoff disk, but mostly now I use the Xuron nippers. It's a little more convenient at the layout. I clean up the end with a file and break the corners slightly on the base to facilitate the rail joiners. I do this for the cutoff disk also.
I always wear safety glasses regardless of length or tool, that way I never forget them.
Enjoy
Paul
Hey thanks,
That at woodland scenics looks great. I already have some ideas on how I would like the terrain to transition from city to rural. Also took a look at some images of terrain scene.
There are definitely possibilities on this....
I have a Dremel, never used it to cut rail for the same reasons stated above. I also have a Xuron rail nipper, which I often use. But, before I had a Xuron tool I used a razor saw (which I've also seen/heard being referred to as a track saw), which I still often use to cut rail. The razor saw is a bit awkward sometimes, but i can mark exactly where I need the rail to be cut, then make the cut.
I use the Xuron cutter and stabilize the rails with the MLR solder tool as close to the cut as possible while cutting it.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
One thing that I do with my Dremel tool no matter what I'm cutting and which type of disk is to double up the discs. The screw on the mandrel is long enough to allow for that option. Additionally, if one of the discs breaks, you don't have to change the discs quite as often.
If one is careful, the flat of the discs also work as a grinder which allows one to make the cuts vertical.
Def get the Xuron rail nippers for the track. The company also makes one for use in cutting plastic when making structures.
To create the stubbled, spotty look, consider going outside or online at pictures of where you are trying to replicate. There are plenty of pictures sites to use. I also suggest visiting any reputable site for ground foam colors and trying different types. Remember, that nature is not mono-chromatic either.
I use a cut-off disc mounted on a flex shaft, which allows an almost vertical cut.
FRRYKid....If one is careful, the flat of the discs also work as a grinder which allows one to make the cuts vertical.
While I don't double-up on the discs, I do use them as grinders which allows you to trim the cuts to a true vertical.
I used the same method to trim down the oversize flanges on this old IHC Mogul:
I clipped power leads to the motor, then, with the locomotive upright and running at about half-speed, lightly touched the face of the disc to the bottom of a flange - this allows the filings to drop rather than land in the mechanism. Don't work for too long on any one flange - instead, move to another so that the metal never becomes hot enough to affect the plastic centres of the drivers. Simply move from driver to driver until all flanges are an acceptable depth. I swapped-out the lead and tender wheelsets, but they could be done with the disc, too, if you were to manually rotate the wheels.
With careful use, you can actually wear down a disc without breaking it:
The resulting smaller discs are useful when you need to work in confined spaces, such as the inside of a steam locomotive boiler or a diesel body shell.
Wayne