One of the popular loads at my former club was a 50-foot scrap gon loaded to the brim with "rusted" X2f couplers.
Thanks for the ideas I already have gondolas full of plastic wheels painted rust. I think I will add this to the pile.
Joe Staten Island West
KyleI would suggest placing some of the knuckles from the plastic couplers in between the rails of some of your grades. In addition you could use parts of them for scrap loads or just random junk.
Scrap loads; trash plastic couplers and plastic wheels, painted a rust color, make excellent gondola scrap loads.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
joe323 Now what to do with the plastic couplers?
Now what to do with the plastic couplers?
Trains are very heavy, and the forces that are going through the couplers are massive. As a result, there are sometimes broken knuckles on grades. I would suggest placing some of the knuckles from the plastic couplers in between the rails of some of your grades. In addition you could use parts of them for scrap loads or just random junk.
As it happens I am in the process of replacing couplers on cars that will make the transision from the old Staten Island West yo the new SIW coming in 2016 (Mainly Tankers, well cars and of course locomotives. Some MOW and a caboose or two) to mostly Kadee 148's. It's been mostly a drop in project except for losing the little screws but I have a supply of replacements from Micro-Mark when needed, as well as the washers and height gauges.
Makes a big difference in performance.
csmith9474Just as an aside, I believe that the patent Kadee had expired, so it allowed other manufacturers to duplicate Kadee's design. It seems that Kadee still produces a superior product.
I think thats when "The Attack of the Clones" ware began! Kadee obviously is still the leader by a long shot but if there is any semi close contender, the Walthers metal Protomax sure looks awefully close.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Marlon,
Good reminder. Ever since the 80's I've had packages of the gray and red Kadee fiber washers and a Kadee height gauge on-hand to help adjust coupler height when building kits. Part of the rolling stock tune up process. I like the whisker couplers as they are often easier to install vs. the bronze spring type - which often need extra work to get them to fit into some coupler pockets, especially Walthers redbox kits cars.
wp8thsub I also more-or-less use a replace on failure policy. I'll throw in a suggestion to refrain from just throwing the McHenry types away. If they have metal knuckle springs, save the springs for use on Kadees as they are interchangeable.
I also more-or-less use a replace on failure policy.
I'll throw in a suggestion to refrain from just throwing the McHenry types away. If they have metal knuckle springs, save the springs for use on Kadees as they are interchangeable.
Pretty much what I'm following - mainly due to time constraints and economic reasons.
Excellent suggestion to save those springs, it's always a big help to have a steady supply of those on hand as they occasionally pop out of couplers and need replaced.
okiechoochoo QUOTE: Originally posted by Meyblc Yes, you can simply remove the factory installed Kadee clone couplers and install the Kadee. I have yet to find a car that i could not do this with. Then it only becomes a question of coupler height, as mentioned before. I have mostly 40 foot boxcars in Athearn RTR. Do KD #5 s drop in. How about the coupler spring. Is it a problem or do the coupler boxes on the RTR accept them ok Sorry to have so many questions, I am new to HO. Thanks
QUOTE: Originally posted by Meyblc Yes, you can simply remove the factory installed Kadee clone couplers and install the Kadee. I have yet to find a car that i could not do this with. Then it only becomes a question of coupler height, as mentioned before.
I have mostly 40 foot boxcars in Athearn RTR. Do KD #5 s drop in. How about the coupler spring. Is it a problem or do the coupler boxes on the RTR accept them ok Sorry to have so many questions, I am new to HO. Thanks
When I started out in the hobby (in the mid 80s), my standard coupler was the Kadee #5. I've since changed to the Kadee #148; it's the whisker coupler direct replacement for the #5. No bronze centering spring to mess with. The next time you shop, make sure you get the Kadee coupler height gauge and their special coupler pliers. And while you're at it, buy some of Kadee's red fiber washers. It's been my experience with Athearn cars that the couplers tend to be low. The washer will raise the car height, bringing the coupler dead on.
ricktrains4824The newer McHenry's with the coil springs: While not as good as Kadee couplers, I will leave them on until they fail, then I replace them.
I also more-or-less use a replace on failure policy. The exceptions are cases where the longer shank plastic couplers are used, as on piggyback flats, as they deform under load and come uncoupled.
Failure for a McHenry coupler isn't necessarily breakage. Due to the amount of switching on my layout, cars get coupled and uncoupled a lot. Eventually, the McHenry knucles start to wedge open or closed. Once that happens they're done for.
Rob Spangler
The newer McHenry's with the coil springs: While not as good as Kadee couplers, I will leave them on until they fail, then I replace them. So far, I have only had issues with a couple times, and have several that, once at the right height, they work well. Biggest issues? Height. Only two times have I had one fail otherwise.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
maxman riogrande5761 Any coupler with the plastic finger holding the knuckle closes is trash - thats for sure. Somehow this topic has come up twice. So I will point out again that the McJunk has been improved with a coil spring http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=MCH4350 I still throw them away.
riogrande5761 Any coupler with the plastic finger holding the knuckle closes is trash - thats for sure.
Somehow this topic has come up twice. So I will point out again that the McJunk has been improved with a coil spring http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=MCH4350
I still throw them away.
Thats good they got rid of the awful plastic finger - which was, BTW, the coupler that Athearn referenced in it's glowing 2006 memorandum talking about quality and value.
Unfortunately I have a large number of Athearn (ex-MDC) Thrall coal gons that came with the finger springs - which will need replacing with due haste due to the false uncouplings. While worth every penny, the KD whisker couplers are about $34 per bulk pack so it's going to hit me up for probably about $150 at least, to mitigate the old version of McHeny's. They will of course get priority over the plastic couplers that have to metal spring.
Threads merged.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
riogrande5761Any coupler with the plastic finger holding the knuckle closes is trash - thats for sure.
riogrande5761 McHenry couplers are inherently a bad design with the plastic finger spring.
Well, the design has been improved because they no longer have that plastic finger, which has been replaced with a coil spring. http://www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=MCH4350
However, I still throw them away and use Kadees.
All Lionel all the time.
Okiechoochoo
gmpullman If it's Athearn, they're McHenry's. Athearn (Horizon) owns, or has controlling interest in, McHenry: from a June 2006 news release, Horizon Hobby, exclusive distributor of Athearn and Roundhouse model railroad products, has added McHenry Couplers to its product line. McHenry’s operations will be managed from Carson, Calif., where Horizon’s other model railroad lines are based.Robert Staat, McHenry’s president, is excited about the company’s future with Horizon. “I look forward to doing what I enjoy most; designing new products,” Staat said. “By combining the strengths of both of our companies, the real winners will be our many loyal customers.”Athearn president Tim Geddes added, “McHenry Couplers joins Athearn and Roundhouse as another example of good quality and high-value products that Horizon is committed to bringing to the market. McHenry Couplers add value to many of Athearn’s locomotives and rolling stock, and we look forward to continuing the relationships Bob has built with other manufacturers.” "good quality and high-value" are their opinion...
If it's Athearn, they're McHenry's. Athearn (Horizon) owns, or has controlling interest in, McHenry:
from a June 2006 news release,
Horizon Hobby, exclusive distributor of Athearn and Roundhouse model railroad products, has added McHenry Couplers to its product line. McHenry’s operations will be managed from Carson, Calif., where Horizon’s other model railroad lines are based.Robert Staat, McHenry’s president, is excited about the company’s future with Horizon. “I look forward to doing what I enjoy most; designing new products,” Staat said. “By combining the strengths of both of our companies, the real winners will be our many loyal customers.”Athearn president Tim Geddes added, “McHenry Couplers joins Athearn and Roundhouse as another example of good quality and high-value products that Horizon is committed to bringing to the market. McHenry Couplers add value to many of Athearn’s locomotives and rolling stock, and we look forward to continuing the relationships Bob has built with other manufacturers.”
"good quality and high-value" are their opinion...
An unfounded opinion based on my experiences. The excitement Robert Staat must have been mostly financial as the McHenry couplers are inherently a bad design with the plastic finger spring. Good quality and high-value has been proven to NOT be the case with a little time and experience. It's time for Athearn and Horizon take note it was a bad move and realize the McHenry couplers are a lability and detract from otherwise good products.
Kadee No. 5 (separate centering spring) and 148 (whisker centering spring) will drop right in to the RTR coupling box. Make sure the metal clip locks in place, or better yet, get the A-line or MicroMark drilling jig to drill out the center of the coupler mounting pin and put a screw in to hold the cover in place. Athearn cars' couplers are usually low on at least one end. A No 6 flat washer between the truck and the car frame usually brings the low end up to the right height.
Leave one truck very loose and one a little loose for better tracking. Most RTR cars have the trucks screwed down tight and the trucks can't rock and roll to follow track irregularities.
gmpullman riogrande5761 IMO, for this reason they are an inferior product and I don't know why Athearn continues to use them in otherwise very nice products. Probably because Horizon Hobby (Athearn) bought Mchenry Coupler back in 2006 so don't expect Athearn to stop using them anytime soon
riogrande5761 IMO, for this reason they are an inferior product and I don't know why Athearn continues to use them in otherwise very nice products.
Probably because Horizon Hobby (Athearn) bought Mchenry Coupler back in 2006 so don't expect Athearn to stop using them anytime soon
Maybe, but I will still make my feelings known as a customer. Obviously some manufacturers have listened, such as Intermountain, ExactRail, Tangent and even Bowser. Walthesr Protomax appear to be close metal clones of Kadee's and should be ok. Time for Athearn and Atlas, the two holdouts, to get onboard!
One time I had a cut of cars parked on a grade with the slack run-in for several days. All the plastic fingers on the knuckle springs became deformed and the couplers were useless. (I had not gotten around to installing the Kadees yet) ALL plastic couplers belong in the trash... Ed
ALL plastic couplers belong in the trash...
Ed
Any coupler with the plastic finger holding the knuckle closes is trash - thats for sure. And I agree with you, and just picked up another bulk pack of KD's over the weekend, but have a long way to got to get my fleet fully converted. As usual, it comes down to money to have all the right stuff!
Kadee for me, Ed
My rolling stock is 98% Kadee and 2% Walthers Proto-Max, which, so far, have performed OK for me.
The Kadee trip pin is VERY soft alloy, very high in iron content. I found out the hard way that other manufacturers use different grades of steel for their trip pins.
I normally cut them off and have a dedicated pair of Xuron nippers for the job. I recently tried to clip the trip pins on a Rapido passenger car and took a big chunk out of the cutting edge of the Xuron cutters! Their trip pins must be made out of HRC 55-66 Rockwell steel!
One time I had a cut of cars parked on a grade with the slack run-in for several days. All the plastic fingers on the knuckle springs became deformed and the couplers were useless. (I had not gotten around to installing the Kadees yet)
Marlon, may not be so much the "steel" content as the trip pin itself may not be positioned at the angled off to the side for magnet throw for uncoupling. Had this happen a few times as the pin can be a lousey press fit into the plastic and not in the proper position. Best to just toss and replace it anyway w/ the kadee.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
okiechoochooAre the couplers that come on Athearn RTR freight cars decent? What brand are they and are KDs an easy conversion on the cars or do they not fit without a lot of work.
There seems to be some confusion by the answers I've read in this topic. Athearn RTR trains come with McHenry brand plastic KD clones - as stated in the descriptions of the rolling stock on their website.
Those couplers are not decent, they are of poor quality - mainly because the spring that keeps the coupler closed is plastic and becomes fatigued and will not reliably hold the coupler closed - thus you get random uncouplings - a constant nuisance at best and possible run aways and damaged trains at worst.
You can buy Athearn RTR trains and they may operate as described above, even though they are new, in the box and never have been used. That is because fatigue sets in even while the models are stored in the box, whether at home or on a shelf waiting to be sold. Athearn really needs to stop using poor quality couplers in their trains just to save a dollar or two. IMO it is short changing the hobbyist to sell a product like that.
Changing out for Kadee's should be simply a matter of swapping out and checking coupler height against Kadee's height gauge and if necessary adding a washer if they come out low - adding it between the bolster and the trucks.
post topic duplicated in thread merger
I purchased a couple Athearn 30K gallon tank cars that were NITB at a recent train show. They came with what I think were EZMate couplers. I think the trip pins on those couplers have a lower steel content, and don't work real well with Kadee automatic uncoupler magnets. When backing the cars over the magnets, the couplers tended to swing to the wrong side of the magnet, making uncoupling a real PITA. I attribute this to the weak plastic centering whiskers. I replaced them with Kadee #119s (whisker shelf couplers). Other than having to insert a Kadee red washer under the truck, they were a drop-in replacement, and uncouple like champs. This is just one reason, ALL of my rolling stock usually get Kadees before they ever touch the layout.