If the Athearn incandescent bulbs are rated only 10 ma., that further confirms the fact that Athearn uses crappy bulbs.
Rich
Alton Junction
gmpullmanBob & Dave— I have used some of the SMD assemblies sold by "Big" Al Mayo on his MonsterRailroad ebay store. He will put together a package of the 3mm fiber optic tube and warm white SMD for a fairly reasonable price.
This gave me an idea today and I glued (acc) a short 1/8" long pc of 1.5mm fiber optic filament to a warm white SMD that I had (prewired with resistor). I pushed the fiber optic into the hole in the Athearn Genesis F-3 headlight and what do you know? I looks just like the original Athearn incandescent headlight. Now I can replace all the Genesis headlights with reliable LED lighting and forget about them!
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
That's exactly the setup I use, Bob, with the addition of a short piece of black heat shrink tubing to keep everything in place and prevent light leaks.
I lightly sand the end of the fiber optic to give it a slightly rounded appearance.
There's not an easy way to heat-flare the tube since you wouldn't be able to push it through the 1.5 mm opening.
Have Fun, Ed
gmpullman That's exactly the setup I use, Bob, with the addition of a short piece of black heat shrink tubing to keep everything in place and prevent light leaks. I lightly sand the end of the fiber optic to give it a slightly rounded appearance. There's not an easy way to heat-flare the tube since you wouldn't be able to push it through the 1.5 mm opening. Have Fun, Ed
Ed,
That was my next experiment, to try to heat shrink some black shrink tube around the LED and part of the filament. Being so small I thought I may have to cut the shrink tube back (once in place) to allow it to fit the hole. If this gives me too much trouble my next 'plan' is to paint it with a black enamel after installation. I also will try some tacky glue once everything is lined up and working. Thanks for your helpful ideas here. Just another day in the model railroad world!
PS: I have had one of the burned out Athearn bulbs with it's wire leads sitting on my computer desk for about 2 years now, waiting for an answer on how to replace it with something else. Finally!
And what is Athearns response to this issue?
Jim
Bob
If you use black paint to mask the light inside the locomotive make sure you test it prior to re-installing the shell. I find that it takes two or three coats to get proper coverage. Liquid electrical tape works really well usually with just one coat. That reminds me - I need to buy some more.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I run my DCC track voltage at 13 volts from a very well regulated Topward DC regulated supply so the power is very clean. My recently purchased RTR SD40-2's still had their bulbs burn out in about 7 hours of run time. I have since replaced them with Details West lenses and LED's behind. The funny thing is I have a RTR tunnel motor from 6 years ago with the bulbs still working in it. Sometimes the bulbs aren't actually burnt out. The wire leading to the filament has a bad connection. I know this because one of the bulbs would come back on when I wiggled the wire. Burnt out or not, it's pretty cruddy quality control.
hon30critterLiquid electrical tape works really well usually with just one coat. That reminds me - I need to buy some more.
Dave & Bob
While looking for the liquid electrical tape I came across this product:
http://www.amazon.com/Tulip-Dimensional-Fabric-Paint-Slick/dp/B004BQ01CQ/ref=sr_1_20?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1424884327&sr=1-20&keywords=fabric+paint
(This links to the "slick" black, I used the matte basic black)
I was making some signals using Oregon railway heads with LEDs and using this stuff, like caulk, it dried to a rubbery, opaque and flat finish.
It may also be available at a craft store and it comes in dozens of colors but I just got the matte black and a matte white for my use.
Just one more option in the modeler's toolbox! Ed
Ed
Thanks for the link to the fabric paint. It looks like it is worth a try. I like the idea of a re-sealable top too. I'll give the local Michaels a try.
Most incandecent bulbs in locos are 1.5V for two reasons:
1. You want them to light on DC when only running 2V on the track
2. You don't want the excess heat of 12 and 14V lamps.This is accomplished by bridging the lamp across two .7V forward bias Diodes (.7 + .7 = 1.4V) followed by a resistor of some sort. (Sometimes the motor) So DCC/DC makes 0 difference. it's 1.4V no matter what your input voltage (unless you reach the breakdown voltage)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Right - so unless you push over 50V (typical minimum PIV for small silicon diodes) through the, the lamps should never even see 1.5V. OK, it's .1V less than the rating, but the point is - running 1.5V bulbs at 1.4V, they should last a pretty long time.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
hon30critter Ed Thanks for the link to the fabric paint. It looks like it is worth a try. I like the idea of a re-sealable top too. I'll give the local Michaels a try. Dave
Yes, thanks, this looks very promising as there is some light shine through the body. I found it at Hobby Lobby online for $3.99 ( http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/tulip-black-slick-3d-fashion-paint-82727/ ). They also have a smaller bottle.
BTW: I tried the shrink tube today and it work great. I made four of them and now just have to wait for a 'push' to install them
I am reluctant to order the paint online because of the possibility of it getting frozen during delivery. Canada eh! We have group post boxes which we have to walk to to pick up the mail so if the stuff was to sit out in the cold for very long it likely wouldn't do it much good.
One other small point about masking the light. If you are going paint the LED after you install it make sure you paint the inside of the shell in the area around the light first before you put the light in. Otherwise you could end up with gaps that will cause the shell to glow in spots.
Dave,
I would hesitate to order online now too. I have 2 Hobby Lobby stores within 7 miles of me so I would go to the store; I had only gone online to see if they carried it.
Since I put the shrink tube on the only light coming out now is within the headlight shell, so I want to paint the area around the headlight shell just in front of the LED. That should keep light from shining down into the body above the front truck. I haven't installed the LED in an operational unit yet, just a spare shell I had.
Some photos: I glued a 1.5mm fiberoptic filament to the SMD and covered it with shrink tube. The photos show the assembled LED unlit and lit and installed in the Genesis F3 shell from inside and finally the outside view (upside down?). Just thought these might clarify any of my 'descriptions' in my earlier posts.
It looks really good.
Something to keep in mind when you do the front lens is that the outside piece of glass was actually flat. American Model Builders (LASERkit) have a glazing kit for the Athearn Fs that includes a headlight outer lens, or at least it used to. When I read the description today I don't see any mention of a headlight lens. The set I bought a few years ago for an E7 had the lens. Might be worth a call first before you spend the money.
Their stuff is incredibly accurate in size. Most glazing is a press fit and doesn't require glue. I just installed their glazing in a fleet of eight Athearn cabooses and every fitted piece was dead on.
Note that there are two F series glazing kits. One apparently requires modifying the window openings and the other fits the existing shell.
http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
hon30critterSomething to keep in mind when you do the front lens is that the outside piece of glass was actually flat.
Nice work, Bob! One other gripe (OK, two) on the Genesis Fs is that on a few of mine I started realizing that the windshields were getting "lost"! Since they are actually Highliner shells I was able to locate some sprues like these:
https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/328-4001 (out of stock)
I may have bought them directly from Paul Lubliner at Highliner? Don't remember.
Another thing that I would have liked to see on a "premium" priced locomotive is lighted numberboards (Proto 2000 has some of the best, IMHO).
Dave, here in northern Ohio I have been waiting for warmer weather as well to order some ModelFlex paints. -10° F expected low tomorrow!
Aint winter fun!
We are experiencing the coldest February on record. Twice in the past 10 days or so the wind chill has been -36 C! That's -32.8 F. Stupid thing is that I don't mind it!
hon30critter Ed Aint winter fun! We are experiencing the coldest February on record. Twice in the past 10 days or so the wind chill has been -36 C! That's -32.8 F. Stupid thing is that I don't mind it! Dave
Maybe you don't mind it, but it is killing me, man.
Three inches of snow overnight, 4 to 6 inches more on Sunday, another 3 inches on Tuesday, and sub zero temps. I wanna play golf.
Ah Rich!
Banned from the forums eh!?! I can see a lot of people sharing your opinion! I will admit that it has been too cold to use the hot tub much since December. Most winters we are in it every two or three days.
Mercifully, we live close enough to Lake Simcoe that the lake effect saves us from a lot of the snow that the areas just north of us like Barrie get. They get clobbered, we get two inches.
gmpullman hon30critter Something to keep in mind when you do the front lens is that the outside piece of glass was actually flat. Nice work, Bob! One other gripe (OK, two) on the Genesis Fs is that on a few of mine I started realizing that the windshields were getting "lost"! Since they are actually Highliner shells I was able to locate some sprues like these: https://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/328-4001 (out of stock) I may have bought them directly from Paul Lubliner at Highliner? Don't remember. Another thing that I would have liked to see on a "premium" priced locomotive is lighted numberboards (Proto 2000 has some of the best, IMHO). Dave, here in northern Ohio I have been waiting for warmer weather as well to order some ModelFlex paints. -10° F expected low tomorrow! Ed
hon30critter Something to keep in mind when you do the front lens is that the outside piece of glass was actually flat.
I agree on the lighted number boards, I have several of the Proto's and they look great. For what the Genesis line is supposed to represent, it should have LED's and the number boards, especially at their price!
I'm OK with the headlight lens as it is; always liked how the headlight looked when lit up.
I live in Knoxville, tn and we are having one of the worst winters since I moved here from Connecticut in 1978! Of course it is like most of winters we had up there! Best thing about it is that I can stay inside and work on my trains!
- Bob
gmpullman Ed, I've watched Big Al Mayo's installation video and his most recent sales demo video on youtube. (Monster Railroading). Have you found his instructions and product to be easy for a lst timer? For a non-electrical guy are his packages a "no brainer" and a good all in one value?
For those not familiar with Big Al, he can be an aquired taste and you have to be accepting of background rap music, but hey, the guy is a professional firefighter so aside from his not for everyone's taste, videos he gets my respect on that front alone.
I would recommend checking out his earlier how to install (his soon to become a product) video for anyone who has NO idea how this is done. (Like me!)
Thanks, Jim
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Hi, Jim
I've watched some of Monster Big Al's videos and they are entertaining and he certainly shares his enthusiasm with his son. I think he will help encourage lots of folks in the hobby.
Evan Designs has some handy SMD LED assemblies and you can get them with built in resistors and rectifiers to run off multiple input voltages.
http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html
As far as value goes, you have to balance your time against the cost. The LEDs seem to be put together well and at the time he had what I needed and shipped quickly at a fair cost. I have since mastered soldering the tiny SMD chips and I bought enough material to make hundreds at probably 50 cents each... all I need is the time to do it!
I bought several sets of the 1.5 mm warm white LEDs (the custom package he mentions on ebay) since I didn't need the ditch light option. His "product" is simply 2 wires with an LED at the end, with or without the "light pipe" and shrink wrap, like Bob shows what he made in the earlier post.
I had acquired about a dozen Genesis Fs about a year ago and needed the headlight LEDs right away so his were my choice at the time. Al has dozens of instructional videos so you have to sort through the information and apply your own skill levels as well.
Until you jump in and do a few conversions yourself, you will never know...
Give it a go... Ed
hon30critterSomething to keep in mind when you do the front lens is that the outside piece of glass was actually flat. American Model Builders (LASERkit) have a glazing kit for the Athearn Fs that includes a headlight outer lens, or at least it used to. When I read the description today I don't see any mention of a headlight lens.
I sent LASERkit an e-mail and they responded that they no longer include headlight lenses in their kits. They recommended MV Products. Here is the Walthers listing:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=516&split=30
I bought the SMD's on Ebay with wire and resistor already installed for about $1.00 each, so all I had to do is glue the fiber optic filament (1.5mm or .060") to the surface of the SMD and then cover with the shrink tube. The hardest part was gluing the fimament to the SMD and I don't know why it was such a problem (the glue took forever to dry and I even tried an excellerator?).
As you said, once you try one or two it isn't that hard to do, just having the time. I don't plan to EVER solder the leads to an SMD?? I am just discovering how good they are and where you can fit them!
Maybe your CA is getting a little long in the tooth. I usually use epoxy to mount LEDs.
Or try the clear Aleene's Tacky Glue. Stays clear and will transmit light with little loss... and you get some working time so if you illuminate the LED while you work you can position it for the best light output through the fiber optic.
http://www.michaels.com/aleene%27s-clear-gel-tacky-glue/10312185.html
And you won't glue the LED to your finger!
Just an idea... Ed
Soo Line fan And what is Athearns response to this issue?
None that I'm aware of since this issue is a long running problem.
Why should they when everybody seems willing to fix what Athearn should have years ago?
Without a doubt Athearn is aware of this problem but,fails to fix it while jacking up the prices with each Genesis release.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIE Soo Line fan And what is Athearns response to this issue? None that I'm aware of since this issue is a long running problem. Why should they when everybody seems willing to fix what Athearn should have years ago? Without a doubt Athearn is aware of this problem but,fails to fix it while jacking up the prices with each Genesis release.
I still buy Genesis passenger diesels because they make models of the road names that I need for my layout. Otherwise, I would avoid the Genesis line due to the lamp issue.
But, since I feel that I have no choice but to continue to purchase the Genesis line, I also purchase SMD LED's at the same time and resign myself to replacing the lamps.
Shame on Athearn.
Yep, most who have purchased Athearn's are well aware of the issue. I have come to terms with their inferior bulbs and know that I'm going to change them out quickly after acquiring the loco.
Some have already mentioned Evans Designs. I like these and use them, along with 1.5mm fiber optic tubing for my headlights and rear lights. A few months ago, I discovered (thru this forum) HDA Modelworx. They have supper small surface mount LEDs that are pre-wired and have a built-in resistor that I use for my ditch lights, and they cost about $1 each.
Here's a few videos that I did on my swapping out incandescent for LED
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-GB9Qt6ibo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcXRnVkpnHU
Thanks, Terry
Inspired by Addiction
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