Many would probably agree with you on the 148's which is why I bought them over 158's, that they would be more reliable - especially when uneven track or couplers out of vertical could cause false uncoupling. A bigger, coupler would stay coupled under a greater mismatch than a #58 scale head would.
As for type of rolling stock, I don't tend to buy based on kit only or high RTR only, rather I try to match up appropriate rolling stock with typical freight cars of my RR and era. So I have anything ranging from blue box Athearn, Accurail, Walthers redbox kits to RTR Intermountain, Exactrail and Tangent cars. For better or worse, ExactRail cars seem to all come with Kadee scale head couplers. I haven't changed out any of my ExactRail couplers. Intermountain for some years all come with KD#5 IIRC. Walthres now have the metal KD clones which seem nearly as good as KD's.
As for zero tolerance, I too will take plastic clones and replace them with KD's when they fail or are a problem. I have many cars with plastic clones right now, because I have many Atlas and Athearn RTR cars - unit coal trains etc., to the tune of a couple hundred plus cars - so I can't afford to change them all out right now.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 As for zero tolerance, I too will take plastic clones and replace them with KD's when they fail or are a problem. I have many cars with plastic clones right now, because I have many Atlas and Athearn RTR cars - unit coal trains etc., to the tune of a couple hundred plus cars - so I can't afford to change them all out right now.
Of all the KD clones, what I refer to as Brand X, the two piece couplers that come with Atlas RTR rolling stock may be the absolute worst performing. For the most part, I have a high opinion of the quality of Atlas products, but I have no idea what the were thinking when they came up with that two piece coupler.
I replace every coupler with Kadee whisker couplers. On older stock that I buy at train shows I do the same, even if it has the older coupler with the flat metal spring.
If you run short trains you can get away with the others, one of my longer trains is in the users video section and you can see why I use kadees and do not consider the alternatives. It is easier to change them when building than to have bad order cars show up over and over ruining the enjoyment of train time.
I've never heard of anyone having to replace the tradtional KD#5 the flat metal spring before, swapping it out with the whisker version. It's pretty universal that they've always been considered rock solid and industry standard.
I standardized everythying with KD #5's. I never have a problem, even on grades and they are well worth it on every car and loco that they fit.
riogrande5761 I've never heard of anyone having to replace the tradtional KD#5 the flat metal spring before, swapping it out with the whisker version. It's pretty universal that they've always been considered rock solid and industry standard.
I guess it's a matter of preference and cost. I've never seen the springs on a #5 go bad after it's been installed. I have discovered a few bad ones that got damaged prior to installation. The 148s just have one less thing to worry about, so they are my preference now, but I see no reason to replace working #5s. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
jecorbettI guess it's a matter of preference and cost. I've never seen the springs on a #5 go bad after it's been installed. I have discovered a few bad ones that got damaged prior to installation. The 148s just have one less thing to worry about, so they are my preference now, but I see no reason to replace working #5s. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I might have misread someones post; I thought someone was removing their #5 KD's and replacing them.
I too have the odd bend or mangled bronze spring, but most are fine. Like many, I now prefer the whisker versions - the only down side is they are more expensive - MRSP #5/pair is $1.39 and #148/pair $1.72. I did pick up a bulk pack of #58 with bronze springs recently at a show because it was on a close out price, but don't plan on buying anymore. I always try to fit the bronze spring version first to try to use them up, but if the whisker are better, I'll go with them - case by case.
help on putting on KD #148 whisker couplers on an old[1990's] atlas/kato C425 loco? there is just a post where screw goes in, no coupler box. DCC is installed already.
thanks FA-1
J.Rob I replace every coupler with Kadee whisker couplers. On older stock that I buy at train shows I do the same, even if it has the older coupler with the flat metal spring. If you run short trains you can get away with the others, one of my longer trains is in the users video section and you can see why I use kadees and do not consider the alternatives. It is easier to change them when building than to have bad order cars show up over and over ruining the enjoyment of train time.
That works for me since cannot run trains over abour 7 cars or so. As the couplers fail my preference is KD 148.
Joe Staten Island West
I have more than enough Kadee's since I bought a whole box of over 200 for peanuts as this person changed over to one of Kadee's other couplers. That being said I let them run till they fail and then use #5's. A word of note, Kadee #5 were not always the same and on rare occasion I have run across an earlier version. They look the same but the shaft is a bit different and thicker and won't fit in a standard box. Have a bunch of logging disconects that I run as a batch so haven't changed out their old time Kadee pin type coupler, even that one was better than others at the time.
fa-1 help on putting on KD #148 whisker couplers on an old[1990's] atlas/kato C425 loco? there is just a post where screw goes in, no coupler box. DCC is installed already. thanks FA-1