Hi everyone!
I have just completed the first phase of building my caboose fleet and I thought I would show what I have done. Comments and suggestions are encouraged.
Some of you will have seen the project in recent WPF threads. This is the first time I have attempted a multi coloured paint scheme. Please don't compare my work to that of the real experts like DoctorWayne!
Eventually I will have a fleet of 15 cabooses, but the first phase involves trying to turn seven Athearn BB kits and one Riverossi kit into something a little more detailed than what the manufacturers offered.
I had intended to use Canadian Pacific markings but as the project went along I realized that my kit bashes would not resemble anything that CP actually ran, so I ordered some custom decals for the Algoma Eastern even though the prototype ceased to exist in the early 30s. The AE is my favourite railroad. I did decide to use the early 50s CP paint scheme with oxide red sides, caboose red end and black roofs.
I made some changes to the bodies including replacing all the molded grab irons with .015" phosphor bronze wire, blanking out some windows and moving the ladders to the opposite sides of the ends. I threw out the original end hand rails and fabricated somewhat more accurate ones from PB wire. I also added working marker lights from Utah Pacific as well as a single interior light representing the conductor's desk lamp which only shows in one window. I used Mark R's constant lighting circuit and power pick ups from Streamlined Backshop. I also installed window/door glazing and screens from LaserKit by American Model Builders Inc. I should mention that the Laserkit cupola windows are a perfect fit for the Athearn kits but they do not fit the Riverossi cupola without enlarging the window openings. The two manufacturer's cupolas look identical but they are not. I broke two pieces of glazing before I figured that out.
Here are some pictures of the project and the finished product:
Please share your opinions. I have another seven caboose kits to complete so any improvements can be incorporated. I should mention that the other kits are from different manufacturers like Kaslo Shops and Roundhouse (two totally different beasts indeed) and there are a couple of Walthers RTRs that will only require paint and lighting.
Thanks as always.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I like what you've done! I'm a caboose nut, too. Although you certainly may have done so, as your photos don't show, I like having some train crew show-up in the caboose, generally someone sitting in the Cupola. It was very common to see this, as it was the job of guys riding in the caboose to keep an eye on their train. Even though 1/2 the time the guy in the cupola is sitting backwards. I have a couple cabooses with a guy out on the platformm taking a break.
I like your color scheme, very realistic. I do the same with my Athearn cabooses I have kit bashed into Northern Pacific 1000-1100 series steel cabooses, by replacing the molded on grabs with wire ones. I just use .005 thick clear plastic for windows, gleaned form report covers. Although I have added interiors to a couple of cabooses, I've generally found it isn't worth the time as the interors can't be seen very well.
My N.P. 1000-1100 series cabooses have quite a bit of modifications from the standard Athearn Caboose. The cupola is moved torwards the center by about 5 feet or so, meaning the roof needs to be opened up a bit forward and then closed-up, where it was moved from. The cupola needs to be split in half and widened out to the sides of the car and raised around three feet on the 1000-1050 cabooses. All surface details; rivits, sheet splices and other detains removed and all but two standard windows closed up on the Athearn Caboose and a small window openened-up in what would be the tolet room on the real car. Then all wire grabs installed, finally painted and decalled for the Northern Pacific. People might say: "Sheesh", why wouldn't you just buy brass models? The answer is I enjoy these types of projects, taking one thing and making it look completely different!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
That's a good-looking caboose fleet, Dave, and very nicely-done, too. I like the CPR-inspired paint scheme, too, and I should point out that none of my cabooses have working lights. Actually I have only one fully re-worked caboose for my freelance home road. There are another 3 or 4 pretty-much stock Athearn ones and 3 from True-Line - two in the old CNR paint (because I have an interchange with the CN) and one ex-CPR van. I re-lettered the latter for another freelance line, then added a little weathering (no lights). Yet to be done (who knows when) is a scratchbuilt one for the TH&B, and a dozen-or-so, also scratchbuilds but of various styles, for my own home roads.
Wayne
Very nice.
Eastern Car Works used to offer nice packages of caboose super detail parts in plastic. However ECW seems to have disappeared and it does not look to me like anyone picked up the tooling. Or am I mistaken? A pity if it is gone forever.
Dave Nelson
Great! I always like to see equipment, particularly cabooses, lettered for the model RR; I presume the locos carry similar reporting marks? My one suggestion would to be to replace the brake wheels with lost-wax castings, if possible, for a nice, lacy look. When I was building a caboose fleet for my erstwhile Potomac & Ohio, a prototype freelanced pike, based on the B&O of 1904, I hit on an idea for bracing caboose stovepipes that looked good and took very little time and effort:
Drill tiny holes in the roof, fore and aft of the stack, drill horizontally through the ring around the stack (this was on MDC/Roundhouse old-time cabooses) at 90 degrees to the cap/hood and get out the undersized nylon thread they provide for truss rods, which I replaced with braided .009"D fishline). You tie a knot in one end of the thread, pass it through one of the roof holes from underneath, pass it through the hole in the stack, then down through the other roof hole. Apply CA to the knotted end, and pull it tight while you CA the other hole. Once it's set up tight, straighten the stack--take your time and get it right--then freeze the thread in the hole with a tiny drop of CA before you slice off the free end of the thread. I plan to do the same thing to my MP&N (Atlas) bobbers and the little cupola-less (AHM) bobber I'll 'bash up for the subsidiary Platteville & Calamine, only this time I'll use the heavier braded fishline I used to use for HO truss rods. Happy modelin', everybody! Deano
Dave,
Very nice work on replacing the cast-on handrail details. This really gives a new dimension to your caboose detailing projects. I'm wondering if you wanted the ability to toggle on/off your marker lights. If yes, a miniature magnetic reed switch in series with your circuit can be glued under the roof, so the lights can be turned on/off with a swipe of a magnet.
Since I am a detail nut, it would be nice to see airhoses to dress up the ends. Hi-Tec Details makes real rubber ones that can take a knock without breaking. Finally, here are 2 quick shots of the first of a group of C&O 90000 series cabooses I am working on. I started with a Quality Craft kit put out in 1978 that I have highly modified with home-made bits. In the first picture, I am "dry fitting" the end railing and ladder details that I scratchbuilt from brass stock. I skinned the main and cupola roofs with 0.005 brass shim stock and fabricated all the "eye candy" on the cupola roof. Took some time, but was really fun to do. Still many small parts to add, but the hard stuff is done.
I took the second shot below while drilling some holes for piping to show how much underbody detail I've added. I am writing detailed notes and lots of pictures to make repeating the process easier when I get to the next caboose--whenever that is! I told you I was a slow poke.
Anyway, enjoyed your post.
Joel
Modeling the C&O New River Subdivision circa 1949 for the fun of it!
Thanks everyone for the comments and suggestions!
NP 2626:
The cupolas are easy to remove so installing a crew member or two would be easy. I like the idea of having a figure on one or two of the platforms too, but I don't really want crew sitting in the cupolas when they are out of service (I guess I could use the excuse that they are slacking off!).
You clearly go to a lot more work than I did if you are moving and widening the cupolas.
I really enjoyed working on these as opposed to buying RTR. I figure I have just about as much invested as I would have spent for a Trueline caboose but this was way more rewarding!
doctorwayne:
Your repaint is very well done. I still have to add a bit of weathering to my fleet but because I haven't attempted to weather anything except a couple of structures yet I will practise on something else first.
Scratch building a dozen cabooses will be a bit of a task but I know you are well up to the challenge. It will be neat to see your project pictures. (No pressure eh!)
Dave Nelson:
I liked working with the American Model Builders Inc glazing and screens. The effect is subtle but I think the screens are essential for a line that ran in Northern Ontario.
I made the 'H' shaped smoke stacks from brass. I gave up after making five because keeping everything lined up when the solder was molten was a PITA.
Deano:
The cabooses are the first things I have used the Algoma Eastern decals on. I have acquired one 0-8-0 steamer which will be re-lettered but so far that is all I have. Eventually I want to have a copy of the passenger train that ran from Sudbury into Little Current in the 20s and early 30s. I drew out plans for modelling the famous swing bridge at Little Current but it worked out to being almost six feet long. Too big for my layout! Maybe if I win the lottery.
I like your idea for bracing the smoke stacks. I'll have to drill a few more holes.
Yes, the brake wheels are a little out of scale. For that matter, the brake stands aren't exactly accurate either. I am hesitant to pull things apart to change them but I will do better on the next caboose projects.
Joel:
Actually I did install magnetic reed switches into the roofs and they work nicely. You can actually hear them trip as the magnet passes over.
I like air hoses but I don't care for the appearance of having a brake hose and the coupler trip pin both. I haven't finalized how I will handle uncoupling on my layout but I am leaning towards using magnets. If I decide to not use the magnets I will definately clip the trip pins off and install proper brake hoses.
All of your comments are much appreciated.
Good deal. Thought I spied a reed switch..., but wasn't sure.
Do I have to pre-order those.....or do You have the Santa Fe one's already made?
Great work!
Take Care!
Frank
hon30critter:
Not bad.
Since the AE cabooses are in CP colours, are you treating it as if CP was operating it as a separate subsidiary after the 1930 lease (instead of fully integrating it as they did) rather than still independent/part of the Algoma Central family?
Chris van der Heide
My Algoma Central Railway Modeling Blog
Hi Chris:
I guess you could say that I am treating them as a subsidiary, and the cabooses will be on loan to the CPR, or leased, or however they arranged those sorts of things.
I decided not to mark them as CPR, partly because I didn't think that the riveted construction was prototypical of CP, but mostly because I just wanted to have the name 'Algoma Eastern' on my layout. My paternal grandmother was born in Sheguinda on the Manitoulin. "Sheg', as the locals know it, is about 10 miles south of Little Current where the AE terminated. My relatives, including my father, rode the AE a lot, and I personally have been across the beautiful swing bridge at Little Current probably more than 100 times. I guess you could say there is a little of the AE in my blood.
I would eventually like to build a model of the AE passenger train even though it predates my era. Labelle Woodworking has coaches that are close to the prototype but I have to do some more homework before spending any money.
If my world was perfect (ha ha! - as if) I would model the AE as it ran from Espanola to Little Current through the LaCloche mountains. The scenery is spectacular. The problem I see with modelling it is that the railway didn't do all that much. Supplying the coal docks at Little Current, one passenger train a day (if that) and servicing a few mines was about it, so from an operating perspective it would get dull really quick. On the other hand, modelling the swing bridge and the coal docks would be impressive, but then what?
Anyhow, I ramble.
Thanks for your interest!
Dave, To make a caboose that looks like the Northern Pacific's 1000-1100 series of cabooses, I had to move the Athearn caboose's cupola forward and make it wider and taller. Yep, it's a bit of work; but, as you've found out these type of projects are very enjoyable.
I also have four wood kit Northern Pacific cabooses, one Laser Kit (American Model Builders) two Gloor Craft and one bay window N.P. caboose that was a kit offered by the Northern Pacific Railway Historical Asso. Wood kits are a bit more difficult; but, still very enjoyable!