Oh, those poor elders! There is an apocalyptice touch to your statement
Elmers Glue-All should work properly - try to avoid anything "wet".
I don't like Elmers for anything paper-based. While it's thick, it's still water based.
I'd go with my old standby, Aileen's Tacky Glue. I use it for applying interior floors and walls to buildings. I print these on my inkjet printer. The ink is water soluble, so any water-based adhesive will make the ink run. Aileen's doesn't cause any discoloration.
You can buy Aileen's at craft stores like Michaels and A.C. Moore. A few dollars gets you a decent-sized container. As long as you keep the top on when not in use, it has a very long shelf life.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I second the vote for Aileens and use it on many applications such as sticking a building on the layout so it doesn't move when bumped but can still be re positioned. The little cap always seem to get lost though.
Joe Staten Island West
Santa Fe all the way!I just purchased a ho scale home that is constructed from card/heavy paper. The details appear to be made of thin plastic. I was thinking of using plain ole Elders, but does anyone have any suggestions??? I always looking for a better way to do things.
Aleene's tacky glue is my first, second and third choice for card stock models.
Stupid counter-question: who is the manufacturer of this kit, and do they have any recommendations as to what to use?
Aileen's glue is also waterbase, but don't be afraid of using any waterbase glue. I use mostly Titebond carpenter's glue, but have also used "Crazy Glue". Just saw a statement in MRC that said Elmer's white glue does not hold it's bond long. I usually spray both sides with a solvent sealer before any cutting. It seals the ink & seals it from moisture.
If you are interested you can see 2 of my models on the Clever Models home page, & while there check out the tips that are posted there. Happy cutting & Folding.... Jerry
Aileen's is slow setting. Give it a half-hour. So, plenty of working time.
I usually spray both sides with a solvent sealer before any cutting. It seals the ink & seals it from moisture.
You mean like dullcote?
joe323 I usually spray both sides with a solvent sealer before any cutting. It seals the ink & seals it from moisture. You mean like dullcote? I have been using Rust-oleum painter's touch 2Xultra cover Matt CLEAR. I tried some of the acrylic sealers & they raised the grain of the paper & dried to a rough finish. The Rust-oleum also protects against UV...so the colors won't fade....
I have been using Rust-oleum painter's touch 2Xultra cover Matt CLEAR. I tried some of the acrylic sealers & they raised the grain of the paper & dried to a rough finish. The Rust-oleum also protects against UV...so the colors won't fade....
I use Aleene's Tacky glue for all my cardstock models.
Works great on old Suydam (present day Alpine Division Scale Models) buildings. It also worked very well on the Walthers LAUPT kit. The glue sets in about 25 secs and gets super strong in an hour or so.
I put a glob of glue on my work surface and use toothpicks to apply the glue to the kit walls.
Santa Fe all the way!I just purchased a ho scale home that is constructed from card/heavy paper. The details appear to be made of thin plastic.
That sure sounds like a Suydam kit. Does your kit look like the houses in the photo below?:
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
I have about two dozen cardstock structures that my father and I assembled with Aleene's Tacky glue some 35 years ago. Some of the cardstock is a little bent up from years of storage, kids, clumsy adults, and even the occasional cat on the layout, but the glue has held up admirably. It gets my vote.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Southwest ChiefThat sure sounds like a Suydam kit.