http://www.micromark.com/spring-grabber,7636.html
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Terry
Terry,
I am in the middle of a wiring project and am intrigued by your #2 tip but I am having a hard time visualizing it. Can you elaborate and/or post a picture?
Roger
To keep Kadee coupler springs from springing off to the far corners of the world, get a piece of sewing thread about 2 feet long. Place the spring on the midpoint of the thread so the thread is around spring and will hold it. After the spring is in place, gently pull the thread free of the spring.
George V.
No photot. I have a piece of scrap wood with a dowel support for the solder roll, and in front of it several wires stretched between screws. Just push the wire into the middle of the spring to hold it temporarily to sodler. Then pull it out.
Trick is to get the right stiffness for the wire's gauge (which is why I have one for 12AWG and 18AWG, some at 90 degrees to others.
Terry: Sorry to be dense.
",,, in front of it several wires stretched between screws." Did you mean several springs instead of several wires? What type if springs? Where did you get them?
For Kadee coupler springs, I too use a piece of thread through the spring so it doesn't fly away, to install the spring I use an exacto knife. Place blade between spring coils to pick it up, insert one end and then compress spring to install, the remove thread.
Here's a photo (if I can upload it correctly):
Switch in front is from a WWII B-17 bomber.
PVC holster:
Thanks a bunch for the photo. Now I've (finally!) got it. I think it will help me a lot with my current project. Being impatient I'm off to the hardware store to look for springs. I like the drill motor holster, too.
When we bought our house about 7 years ago the basement was a modelers dream. All the mechanicals were under the stairs, and the original owners built 2 closets in the unused space one of which I turned into my work space. I built a small work bench and shelves to hold rolling stock to be built or repair and another one to hold all my loco's. I built small shelves to hold all my tools so all I had to do was look up and there they were. I also put a lock on the door so when I was done nothing was moved or missing. I have a extra Digitrax booster with a piece of test track on the bench built on the very front for programing locos and it helps as a catch all for those flying parts. An old desk chair serves as my rolling seat at my work bench and to roll under my layout for repairs and maintainance.Jim.
Has anyone come across a solution to preventing/fixing "frozen" paint?
(My Model Railroad, My Rules)
These are the opinions of an under 35 , from the east end of, and modeling, the same section of the Wheeling and Lake Erie railway. As well as a freelanced road (Austinville and Dynamite City railroad).
Jimmy_Braum Has anyone come across a solution to preventing/fixing "frozen" paint?
As in paint that has hardened in the bottle? I'm anal retentive about my paints. I never open one for the first time until I'm ready to use it. I gently agitate every bottle about once a month. If the paint isn't very liquid, I add a few drops of thinner and mix thoroughly. This keeps 'em healthy and ready to use.
Note that, since switching to Vallejo acrylics, this hasn't been a problem. Just give 'em a quick roll between your hands. I still have quite a few bottles of Polly Scale and Model Master to use up, though, and I'd rather use 'em than lose 'em.
Yep, paint solidified in the bottle. My brain wasn't functioning fully when I posted that earlier
I'm designing my own homebuilt spray booth.I am planning to use scrap paper to line the sides, so you can actually take them out if needed.
Jimmy - Line the inside with kitchen foil and you'll greatly enhance the lighting in there.
Paul D Jimmy - Line the inside with kitchen foil and you'll greatly enhance the lighting in there.
I was going to suggest brown paper, which is available at home improvement stores in large rolls for not a lot of money. In CT, we also get newpaper-like circulars distrubted more or less weekly, which also work.
Foil would definitelyimprove the lighting, but it's expensive, and it seems to me that it's reflectivity would greatly diminish after you began spraying.