Mike,
I didn't reply to this when I saw it. So Good Job! sort of resembles, a empty log car, (hint).
Take Care!
Frank
cmrproducts SO - using Metal Polish might be something to consider!
SO - using Metal Polish might be something to consider!
Bob, is that Gleaming?
Or is it something else?
Rich
Edit Note: Oops, sorry, I should have read on before replying.
Alton Junction
Rich and Others
While I have to agree that the Gleaming Process is a better solution to the HAVE TO Keep Cleaning The Track Problem - I have just let the Polish do its job and am still waiting for it to fail.
With it now over 10 years since I have had to do any cleaning at all - I figured that I wanted to run it out as far as it would go until the NEED to really have to reapply the Metal Polish to my Layout!
I never figured that I would get as far as I did and NOT have to do something to the rails!
Even with what little dust that does land on the rails the Engines STILL RUN GREAT!
Now I do have to admit that I do Clean the Engines wheels - maybe once in 8 or 10 OPs Sessions.
It happens so little I really can't keep track of how often I really do clean the Engines wheels!
I do randomally do cleaning of my Rolling Stock wheels as there is a dirt build up on them!
Not all of my Rolling Stock has had the PLASTIC Wheels replaced - YET!
I do what I call a 30 Day Inspection and Inspect that cars that end up in my Office area part of the Layout.
I give them a quick check for Coupler Height and Operation - Check the Wheels (replace the Plastic with Metal if needed) and clean the Metal Wheels if needed!
YES - The Metal Wheels - THAT are NOT Supposed to attract DIRT - ARE!
So much for that MRR Urban MYTH !
Appearinetly those that are NOT seeing any buildup of DIRT are Not running them as much as I am!
OR - they are very lucky!
Although - having an OPs Session every two weeks with 20 guys running will certainly move the equipment around - so that is probably helping keep my track clean!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Bob,
Based upon your experience, it seems that the metal polishing process is superior to the gleaming process.
Is that your conclusion?
It seems that the only downside to the metal polishing process is that it makes subsequent soldering more difficult.
But, is that really an issue if you are only polishing the top of the rail?
Any problems with conductivity?
Using either the Gleam process or just Metal polishing the rails WORKS!
Some on this Forum felt that Gleaming was better for them! - Which is fine!
I am one of those that if the Polish works - Don't try to reinvent the Wheel!
Some like to keep reinventing things! ;-)
Now as far as soldering to the Polished Rails!
I have found no problems !
I use regular Resin Core Electronics Solder and will scrape the rail sides to clean them a bit and solder what I need!
By the time I do any Ballasting and painting of the rails the wiring has been done for many years!
I prefer to run the layout and decide if I need to add a crossover here or there and my Crew make suggestions to track changes that I take into consideration and usually do make the changes if the change will really speed up the switching process or make OPs run a little smoother or faster!
I then only begin the Scenery and Ballasting process!
As for applying the Polish - just a thin skin of polish on a piece of HO Cork and I apply that to the rails.
If the Polish is getting down the sides of the rail - then either you have too much on the surface of the Cork or are sliding the cork sideways on the rails and scraping the polish off the cork surface!
Don't make the polishing process any harder than it needs to be!
Bob, thanks for those additional comments. I am going to try that metal polishing process.
BTW, I bought one of the CMX cars for $112 a few years back, but I have yet to take it out of the box. My layout is in my basement and with the gas furnace and two gas water heathers nearby, the flammability of the liquids scares me.
That is something that a lot of Modelers fail to take into consideration (the Furnace & Hot Water Heater)!
Also is the use of ISO Alcohol for scenery is also a consideration! But it works so well in speeding up the drying process of the glue!
As for flammable vapors one way of controlling them is to have a lighted candle or two in the vicinity of where you are working and as the vapors accumulate the candle flame will burn them keeping them from accumulating to the point where they would become explosive.
Hey, it may eliminate the odor as well, but I don't know about that.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Hi all. I found this post and thought I might try to get some feedback for an HOn3 specific track cleaning car.
I took over operations of Centerline Products from my parent and I am now CNC machining the N and HO scale bodies instead of die casting.
With the CNC it will be easy to make a cleaner specific to HOn3 scale.
Any thoughts?
Chuck
Chuck,
Not many narrow gaugers here....I would direct the query over to HON3 Yahoo groupos to get a better picture of the demand. You might also contact Bob Brown at the gazzette - he and his columnists might have some opinions that would be helpful.
I have lots of friends who are in Narrow gauge (a few of them in HON3). I would think that the car would be be a welcome addition to the track cleaning arsenal that they employ. I have the HO standard gauge version of your product and use it everytime I clean my track.
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
Guy,
Thanks for pointing me that direction on the HOn3.
Good to hear our cleaners are working for you.