How well do they work? are some brands better then others and are they worth the money?
Thanks, The "Harven"
Hi
I use this one from Bachmann.
I got it for 20$ in a Montreal hobby Shop, I bought two. You can replace the pad with very fine sandpaper pads and well, honestly it works quite nicely. It is not for heavy duty cleaning, but if you keep it running along, since it looks good too, you run trains and it cleans and you don't really have to mind about it.
:)
Have a good day!
Antoine
Harven,
There are many and there are also many ways to clean and maintain your track, from track gleaming, masonite drag cars you name it. Except for gleaming which I have not used, most others I have. Frommy experience and my opinion along with many others who use them. I consider the CMX Track cleaning car to be the best, a little pricey, but worth it. I have two, but I have a rather large layout.
Any HON3 cars avail? Or do I have to custom make 1.
Most track cleaning cars do a so so job. CMX is best but I find that you need to run the masonite type too unless you want to deal with the more volatile solvents. Irun the CMX with two cheap masonite cars for best results.
The thought occurs to me that HOn3 trucks could be put under a CMX car but I'm not certain it will fit. CMX IS the best I have found in HO at least.
Is your layout point to point or continuous run? The CMX works in both directions whereas some in only one.
You can also make your own of course. It is not too difficult.
73
Bruce in the Peg
Jack308gtsi,
N-scale, H0-scale, O-scale and:
You should check Centerline to see if they now have an HOn3 trackcleaning car.
I have two N scale Centerline cars that I converted to HOn3 by swapping out trucks and modifying the couplers to 714s. The older one is kind of wide-bodied, but when I went to buy a second one, it was discontinued in favor of a narrower version. It's still usuable, though.
What I do with mine is use one wet and the other behind it dry, to pick up what the first leaves behind. I also have two standard gauge HO Centerlines and do the same thing with them. They can also be used with both wet for really bad build-ups, but not much need for that really. I put the loco in front in both cases.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I "gleamed" my HO track. I then added a CMX car, using it every 2-3 months, with denatured alcohol (I believe many prefer lacquer thinner). I added a "John Allen" masonite pad car I converted (ala a YouTube video included in the attached older thread) from an Athearn BB box car kit. I run the John Allen car routinely in a train going about and occasionally push/pull it to cover all the trackage.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/221146.aspx
I can tell you the John Allen car picks up lots of dust / dirt, and discovered just lately that I need to clean the pad occasionally or I'm just repositioning dirt. Folks use sand paper for that (getting it reasonably clean).
Oh, and when I run the CMX and John Allen car together the drag is significant, so I use a 2 loco consist to pull it.
I also have metal wheelsets on my freight cars, to minimize wheel accumulation of dirt I have not secured by cleaning. And I clean my loco driven wheels by spinning over an alcohol wet rag.
I think it all works together: gleaming helps track, two types of track cleaning car (wet and pad, pad run routinely), wheel considerations, etc.
I'd say if costs are important (the CMX car runs about $130 I recall), build a John Allen car and supplement that by wiping the rail occasionally with an alcohol wet rag. And I'd add gleaming as a cheap assist to the system, costing pennies but some time.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
I have subway tunnels, so I always planned on having a CMX car. It really does the job. I use it with lacquer thinner. I do keep a window open when I run it, but I set the needle valve for a low flow rate and don't really get much of an odor. I clean my track every 3-4 months.
Subway tunnels are restrictive, so I use my powered subway cars to haul around the CMX machine. It's very tunnel-friendly, actually smaller than the subway cars so there's no clearance problem. The car is very heavy. It comes with metal wheels and Kadee couplers (HO) and I've never had a problem with derailments. Between the weight and the cleaning pad, I need two powered subway cars to drag it around.
This is not designed to be run around all the time disguised as a regular freight car.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I made my own from an old AHM boxcar and a pair of brass flywheels for a roller. It works pretty well and cost me $10 for all the parts.
S&S
Modeling the Pennsy and loving it!
No, that's it. I'll try to grab a couple of pics of them and post so you can see. This pic shows how wide the first N Centerline car is. It's is no longer available last I heard, but is better to make a conversion to HOn3. I made a sort of span bolster, with the truck's king pin supporting the center and the coupler and car body on each end of it.
The side view below gives more details on the construction. The second, narrower car was current production when I bought it some time ago. It's barely wide enough for HOn3, but it does work. I added a coupler on one end only, since it's typically last and run with a dry roller. It's also much lighter than the first, so I added some weight up top to give it heft. With the rollers different widths, I have to keep two different widths of the Handi-Wipes for the cleaning material on the rollers.
I used the no longer produced MDC HOn3 trucks, because they are plastic and help avoid needing to insulate the weighted car body from the tracks.
If anyone is interested, this is the ''How To'' for coverting CMX N-scale Track Cleaning car to HOn3. Pic is finished Model of Author:
http://tonystrains.com/technews/cmxn_mod_to_hon3.htm
Frank
While all of the Track Cleaning Cars will do what they are supposed to do - CLEAN THE TRACK
The problem is that YOU have to KEEP doing it over and over!
This was the problem I faced back in 2003 and trying to keep 1000 feet of track clean so my crew could do Operations without all of the engines stalling (I NOW have over 4000 feet of track down)!
I tried everything and while thay all worked - I had to keep recleaning the rails every 2 weeks!
I was spending more time cleaning the track than I was running trains!
Something had to give!
Then Model Railroader Magazine had an article about Metal Polishing the track!
I never figured it would work but I was getting desperate!
So I tried it on a section and it worked Great - I did not have to clean that area - so I did another area and it also stayed clean.
SO I stopped the OPs Session that night and my crew helped me Metal Polish the 1000 feet of track!
I have NEVER cleaned the track again and it is now over 11 years since I first Polished the track!
I may have had to scrape paint off the rail heads when doing scenery but that is it!
SO - using Metal Polish might be something to consider!
UNLESS !
YOU like to Clean track - or running the Track Cleaning Car is the only reason YOU can find to run trains!
I much prefer to Do Operations and my crew of 20 Thnks me every OPs Session!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Bob H:
Hi there.
I am assuming that when you refer to "polishing" you are speaking of a different process from "gleaming". In other words you are using a liquid polish as opposed to a stainless steel washer. Is that correct?
If so, could you elaborate a bit on your track polishing method?
- What polish(s) did you use?
- What material(s) did you use to apply the polish?
- How much time did you spend on each section of track?
- Did you do any prep work before polishing?
Also, do you happen to remember which MR issue you saw the polishing article in?
Thanks
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter Bob H: Hi there. I am assuming that when you refer to "polishing" you are speaking of a different process from "gleaming". In other words you are using a liquid polish as opposed to a stainless steel washer. Is that correct? If so, could you elaborate a bit on your track polishing method? - What polish(s) did you use? - What material(s) did you use to apply the polish? - How much time did you spend on each section of track? - Did you do any prep work before polishing? Also, do you happen to remember which MR issue you saw the polishing article in? Thanks Dave
**** - What polish(s) did you use?
I use Mothers Mag Wheel Polish - ANY paste type of Metal polish - or silver polish will work Ftiz & MAAS are other brands
**** - What material(s) did you use to apply the polish?
I use a piece of HO Cork (as that is the Scale I Model in) and had pieces laying around.
It is stiff enough to run flat on the rail heads and hold the Polish!
I made wood handles and counter sunk a screw though 2 pieces of cork glued together so the screw head would not scratch the track.
**** - How much time did you spend on each section of track?
I place some of the Metal Polish paste in the lid of the continer - I then take the HO Cork and rub the cork on the paste in the lid - I want just a thin costing of paste on the cork!
This way I do not get a lot of the paste down on the sides of the rails - I then run the cork on the rails for about 5 to 6 feet - you can feel the cork getting dry as the paste is used up.
I use a back and forth movement.
I then take another piece of clean cork and buff the rail heads.
YOU ARE DONE with that section!
Apply more polish to the cork and do another section - then buff
**** - Did you do any prep work before polishing?
NO! - just placing the paste in the lid of the container and cutting the HO cork roadbed into one inch wide pieces.
The article was in Model Railroader - January 2003
Hey Bob!
Thanks for the prompt and very detailed response!!
I have yet to start my layout but I am convinced by experiences like yours that polishing the track is a neccessity. In fact, I think I will polish the track before installing it so there will be a minimum amount of finish polishing required after it is down.
cmrproductsWhile all of the Track Cleaning Cars will do what they are supposed to do - CLEAN THE TRACK The problem is that YOU have to KEEP doing it over and over! This was the problem I faced back in 2003 and trying to keep 1000 feet of track clean so my crew could do Operations without all of the engines stalling (I NOW have over 4000 feet of track down)! I tried everything and while thay all worked - I had to keep recleaning the rails every 2 weeks! I was spending more time cleaning the track than I was running trains!
Big ops, multiple motive power users, lots of track...I really can't compare my situation directly. But my recent run of the Centerlines was actually the first time in at least two years they've been off the shelf and on the layout. I recently converted a bunch of passenger cars to lighting, so wanted to optimize things for them. I also have part of a loop that runs under a stairway, so crud filters down over time and it's just easier to run them through than reach from underneath.
A narrowgauge colleague, Laurie McLean, taught me the wonders of CRC 2-26. Gotta get your track clean first. Then you use a cork that is dampened with CRC to wipe the rails. Let it dry overnight. The rails don't appear shiny afterwards, another advantage, but look more like rails typically do. It's really a blessing with NG and very low maintenance. I used the Centerlines to clean things up well on all my SG and NG hidden track and the CRC does most of the rest. Every once in awhile, a Bright Boy swipe or two is handy, but that's about it.
How do you use a stainless steel washer to polish track?
Be aware that the Metal Polish will make it more difficult to solder wire drops to the rails!
So doing it before installing the track may or may not be a good idea!
It really goes a lot faster than one would think on an existing trackwork!
With the handles I made to hold the cork pieces made it easy to get back into industrial sidings and spurs.
YES - I cleaned ALL of the track not just the Mainlines and Passing Tracks!
Where the cleaning cars work great for the mains etc they will NEVER work well on stub end sidings as the engine will be in the road and most do not work backing up!
The metal polish eliminates having to continually go back over these stub end tracks as it protects the rails from dirt!
Just as waxing your car finish protects a cars paint
The metal polish gets in the minute scratches in the surface of the rails - fills up the scratches with the polish and this keeps the dirt from being able to attach itself to the scratched surface!
And even using 600 or 1000 grit snad paper SCRATCHES the surface of the rails!
So now there are places for the dirt to get a hold and then this dirt is sticky and the next piece of dirt sticks to the previous one and so on and so on.
Cleaning the rails only removes the dirt build up but does NOTHING to stop the dirt from sticking to the scratches in the rails.
And then there are those that do Polish the track and then go over the track with a cleaning car!!!
This just removes all of the Metal Polish that you just worked so hard to put down (doing any thing to the track other than running trains is WORK) and NOW the dirt is going to begin getting into those scratches on the rails.
You are just defeating the purpose of the Metal Polish - NOT having to CLEAN THE TRACK!
This is why we have to keep cleaning the track over and over again!
Everyone can do what they want - spend money needlessly on those $100.00 cleaning cars but I would much rather purchase another engine or a couple more cars!
There is a track cleaning car demonstrated by a guy at the Timonium train show that is a box car with motorized spinning flat wheels over each rail that impressed me, both with the operation and the cost. I believe the sell for a whopping $150 but if they work well, and it really could be worth as a long term investment in clean track and enjoyable reliable operation free of dirty track troubles. The track cleaning car motors seemt to be quite stout and it took a lot to stop the spinning action, so it appears these are built to operate for years but I haven't talked to anyone who has bought and used one long term.
The reason I like the motorized track cleaning car is it look like it really polishs the rail rather than just rolls over it with a fluid, which probably works well but as a supliment to physical "elbow grease" cleaning now and then. This guy stated Howard Zane had 4 of them... it would be interesting to hear from anyone who has used the motorized box car track polisher/cleaner.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
The Stainless Steel Washer is a varation on the Metal Polish Method!
The Washer is used as a last step and it has to be rubbed hard on the surface of the rail heads to actually burnish the surface - which smooths out the minute scratches.
The usual way the Gleam method (Stainless Steel Washer) is to use 600 and then 1000 grit emery cloth to sand the rail heads then the SS Washer is pushed along the rails - to get the proper finish one must put a lot of pressure on the washer to give a shiny finish!
While many report great success with the Gleam Method
There is a LOT of work to obtain the proper finish!
While there are many that may NOT get the long life (as in NO cleaning of the track) with the Gleam Method - it is probably due to NOT ENOUGH pressure on the SS Washer to produce the proper finish!
I tried this method and found the required amount of pressure on the washer was more than I wanted to do
and the Metal Polish was giving me satisfactory results!
The CMX track cleaning car can be pushed, or pulled, works both directions.
The track cleaning box car, save Your money! You'll find out why, when you go through turnouts. I have one and was going to experiment with changing the polarity of the two motors, but never did it, plus the pads wear out fast. To me another novelty
zstripe The CMX track cleaning car can be pushed, or pulled, works both directions. The track cleaning box car, save Your money! You'll find out why, when you go through turnouts. I have one and was going to experiment with changing the polarity of the two motors, but never did it, plus the pads wear out fast. To me another novelty Frank
Just as all of the Cleaning Cars are!
I threw ALL of my cleaning cars away a long time ago -
But I see no one wants to let go of your Cleaning Cars - which is all right as you spend a lot for them
In having spent about $5.00 for a can of Mothers Mag Wheel Polish back in 2003 and I still have 3/4 ths of the can left
It probably has dried up by now as I just never need it.
You all have fun now cleaning your track before each of your running sessions - you hear! ;-)
cmrproductsThe usual way the Gleam method (Stainless Steel Washer) is to use 600 and then 1000 grit emery cloth to sand the rail heads then the SS Washer is pushed along the rails - to get the proper finish one must put a lot of pressure on the washer to give a shiny finish!
I believe most Gleam method descriptions include another step...polishing. I used Simichrome polish.
I have used the Fitz and Maa's. But I still use the CMX, at least once a year. A layout just sitting will collect dust no matter what kind of environment it is in. Unless of couse, you have it in a bio-chemical sealed room.
I use the Mothers on my classic car wheels.
Take Care!
Just thought, I would put this back to top, for people who have Track Cleaning Ques.
jack308gtsiDid you have to modify the n gauge centerline cleaners besides couplers and trucks?
Since replying with my posts regarding HOn3 Centerline cars, I stumbled across something I didn't know existed -- a drawbar adapater for HOn3 from Centerline that fits one of their HO cleaner cars.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Centerline-Products-HOn3-Drawbar-Adapter-p/clp-60105.htm
My HOn3-adapted cars are N scale ones, but I ordered one to check it out, as it may be usuable with the N scale ones I have. It will make one heck of a heavy track cleaner for HOn3 if the HO version is used as its basis, which I have a couple of for the SG lines. At only $6, can't go wrong. Will advise/have pics when I receive it.
mlehmanSince replying with my posts regarding HOn3 Centerline cars, I stumbled across something I didn't know existed -- a drawbar adapater for HOn3 from Centerline that fits one of their HO cleaner cars. http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Centerline-Products-HOn3-Drawbar-Adapter-p/clp-60105.htm
Received the Centerline HOn3 adapter kit and installed it. Instructions weren't real helpful, it's a good thing it's virtually idiot proof...
The kit supplies 4 small 00-90 screws to attach the 714 couplers and whatever HOn3 trucks you use. You are also supplied with two more screws the size of the ones for the standard gauge bolster and trcusk. Ignore them, what you need is to recycle the SG coupler screws. They are used to fasten the convertor to the chassis.
You end up with this big, honkin' track cleaner. In fact, it was really more than that poor little SURR C-19 could pull on the level. Break out the big locos or double head. It does a pretty fair job of cleaning, better becauise of the much greater mass than my adapted N scale Centerlines.
I don't use them very often, but this conversion does make a nice addition to the fleet.